Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001

A field experiment conducted on a sandy barred beach, situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coastline, allowed us to investigate the impact of the intertidal bar on the wave-energy dissipation on the beach face in presence of a high-energy long-incoming swell (significant wave height of about 1.7 to 3.0 m in 56 m water depth and significant wave period about 12 s). Data were collected along three parallel cross-shore transects deployed along an intertidal ridge and runnel system. Wave heights in the inner surf zone are depth-limited, consistent with previous works, and the wave-energy dissipation in the inner surf zone appears to be relatively independent of the offshore energy level. On the other hand, the presence of the bar seems to scatter the data. In models of surf-zone hydrodynamics, wave-energy dissipation is often parameterized in terms of , the ratio of the sea-swell significant wave height to the local mean water depth. The observed values of are not constant along a cross-shore transect, and increase onshore. Furthermore, the observed values observed onshore the intertidal bar are higher than those observed outside the influence of the intertidal bar, and this cannot be fully explained by the different local beach slope.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann     

EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION AND COHESIVE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN SILT COAST

EmmmL STonY ON w^rs EareGY DlsSunnox AunCOIIES1VE SEDonT TRANSPORT 1N SirT COASTShaong HUl and Onyx WAI2Abstract:The interahon betwee the wave and fluld mud laye Plays an twrtan fOle in the develOPmen ofsilt coast. Sediment is essenhally transported in the form of rheological flow of mud laye unds thewave achon, and on the other hand, the fluid Inud layer dams the wave consfory. ms papestUdies the laws of wave energy dissiPation and mud bed deformhon, and the moveInen of…     

Experimental study of near-bed concentration and sediment vertical mixing parameter for vertical concentration distribution in the surf zone

Two formulae for the near-bed concentration(C_a) and the sediment vertical mixing parameter(m) are established based on a large scale wave flume experiment.The advantage of the new formulae is that the turbulent kinetic energy induced by wave breaking can be taken into account;the formula for C_a is in terms of the near-bed,time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy,and the formula for m is in terms of depth-and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy.A new expression for suspended sediment load also is established by depth integration of the vertical distribution of the suspended sediment concentration obtained on basis of the new formulae.Equation validation is done by comparing the predicted C_a and m to measurements for different types of waves(regular wave,wave group,and irregular wave),and good agreement is found.The advantages of the proposed formulae over previous formulae also are discussed.     

A study of dissipation of wind-waves by mud at Cassino Beach,Brazil: Prediction and inversion

The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May–June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights.     

Nearshore wave environments around a sandy cay on a platform reef,Torres Strait,Australia

Waves are the primary factor affecting reef-island morphology. This study examines spatial and temporal variations of wave characteristics in the nearshore around Warraber Island, a sandy cay on a platform reef in Torres Strait Australia, based on field measurements during the predominant southeasterly wind season. Water pressure was recorded simultaneously, and transformed to water surface wave spectra, at a location close to the reef edge and across the nearshore at different locations around the island. Wave environments off the reef were estimated based on wave characteristics measured at the reef-edge location and found to be primarily dominated by sea. Low and high wave-energy events were identified, based on wave energy level at the reef-edge location.     

夜间稳定边界层中小尺度地形激发的形式阻力和波动阻力

通过求解含有摩擦耗散的线性化大气动力学方程组,得到了在夜间稳定大气边界层中小尺度地形产生的波动阻力和形式阻力的解析解.结果表明边界层中的稳定度、风速和湍流状态、边界层厚度、上部残余层中的稳定度和风速以及地形高度和坡度,都会影响波动阻力和形式阻力的大小,应在数值模式的参数化方案中给予考虑.分析还表明,当地形坡度减到一定程度时,形式阻力可以忽略不计.     

A theory of enhanced saturation of the gravity wave spectrum due to increases in atmospheric stability

In this paper we consider a vertical wavenumber spectrum of vertically propagating gravity waves impinging on a rapid increase in atmospheric stability. If the high-wavenumber range is saturated below the increase, as is usually observed, then the compression of vertical scales as the waves enter a region of higher stability results in that range becoming supersaturated, that is, the spectral amplitude becomes larger than the saturation limit. The supersaturated wave energy must then dissipate in a vertical distance of the order of a wavelength, resulting in an enhanced turbulent energy dissipation rate. If the wave spectrum is azimuthally anisotropic, the dissipation also results in an enhanced vertical divergence of the vertical flux of horizontal momentum and enhanced wave drag in the same region. Estimates of the enhanced dissipation rates and radar reflectivities appear to be consistent with the enhancements observed near the high-latitude summer mesopause. Estimates of the enhanced mean flow acceleration appear to be consistent with the wave drag that is needed near the tropopause and the high-latitude summer mesopause in large-scale models of the atmosphere. Thus, this process may play a significant role in determining the global effects of gravity waves on the large-scale circulation.     

Adaptive criterion curves describing incipient motion of sediment under wave and current conditions

Sediment incipient motion is a fundamental issue in sediment transport theory and engineering practice. Whilst Shields curve often is used to determine the threshold of sediment movement under unidirectional current conditions, it is unclear whether it can be directly applied for the wave or combined wave-current conditions. The study developed adaptive criterion curves describing incipient motion of sediment under wave and current conditions based on the flow pattern around the sediment particles. Firstly, the flow pattern law for fixed particles was recognized based on the friction law under various dynamic conditions (wave, current, and their combinations), and the flow pattern demarcations for incipient sediment motion were obtained with the threshold conditions for sediment movement under various dynamic conditions combined. Secondly, the exact shape of the Shields curve in each flow regime was derived under the current condition. By combining the flow pattern demarcations for incipient sediment motion under the wave condition, the criterion curve under the wave condition was derived. By combining the flow pattern demarcations for incipient sediment motion under the combined current-wave condition, the criterion curve for sediment incipient motion under the combined current-wave condition was derived. The results indicated that the flow pattern around incipient particles includes laminar, laminar-rough turbulent transition, and rough turbulent regimes. The criterion curves for sediment incipient motion under various dynamic conditions stayed the same in the laminar and rough turbulent regimes, but different in the transition regime. Depending on the relative strengths of the currents and waves, the shape of the criterion curve under the combined current-wave condition transitions adaptively between the criterion curve under the current condition and the criterion curve under the wave conditions.     

Tropical storm-forced near-inertial energy dissipation in the southeast continental shelf region of Hainan Island

Near-inertial motion is an important dynamic process in the upper ocean and plays a significant role in mass, heat, and energy transport across the thermocline. In this study, the dissipation of wind-induced near-inertial energy in the thermocline is investigated by using observation data collected in July and August 2005 during the tropical storm Washi by a moored system at (19°35′N, 112°E) in the continental shelf region off Hainan Island. In the observation period, the near-inertial part dominated the observed ocean kinetic energy and about 80% of the near-inertial energy dissipated in the upper layer. Extremely strong turbulent mixing induced by near-inertial wave was observed in the thermocline, where the turbulent energy dissipation rate increased by two orders of magnitude above the background level. It is found that the energy loss of near-inertial waves in the thermocline is mainly in the large-scales. This is different from the previous hypothesis based on “Kolmogorov cascade” turbulence theory that the kinetic energy is dissipated mainly by small-scale motions.     

Turbulent kinetic energy and sediment resuspension due to wave groups

Wave-induced sediment resuspension in nearshore regions has been observed occurring in an event-like manner and associated with the passage of wave groups. This paper describes field measurements of turbulent velocities obtained simultaneously with suspended sediment concentration and water surface elevation from Floreat Beach, Perth, Western Australia. The data were used to study the relationship between turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) on suspension events caused by wave groups and the intermittent nature of bottom turbulence production and sediment suspension. The field measurements showed the high TKE events occurred under wave crests, and sometimes under wave toughs, when the wave heights were increasing during the passage of a wave group; the TKE decreased after the maximum wave in the wave group had passed over the measurement location. High suspended sediment concentrations (ssc) and the intermittent high TKE events were not related rather the higher ssc events were associated with a secondary peak in the surface elevation, close to the maxima in the offshore velocity, and “burst” events in the Reynolds stress.     

Characteristics of energy dissipation in hyperconcentrated flows

An equilibrium equation for the turbulence energy in of solid-liquid two-phase flow theory. The equation sediment-laden flows was derived on the basis was simplified for two-dimensional, uniform, steady and fully developed turbulent hyperconcentrated flows. An energy efficiency coefficient of suspended-load motion was obtained from the turbulence energy equation, which is defined as the ratio of the sediment suspension energy to the turbulence energy of the sediment-laden flows. Laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the characteristics of energy dissipation in hyperconcentrated flows. A total of 115 experimental runs were carried out, comprising 70 runs with natural sediments and 45 runs with cinder powder. Effects of sediment concentration on sediment suspension energy and flow resistance were analyzed and the relation between the energy efficiency coefficient of suspended-load motion and sediment concentration was established on the basis of experimental data. Furthermore, the characteristics of energy dissipation in hyperconcentrated flows were identified and described. It was found that the high sediment concentration does not increase the energy dissipation; on the contrary, it decreases flow resistance.     

Turbulence structure in the upper ocean: a comparative study of observations and modeling

Observations of turbulent dissipation rates measured by two independent instruments are compared with numerical model runs to investigate the injection of turbulence generated by sea surface gravity waves. The near-surface observations are made by a moored autonomous instrument, fixed at approximately 8 m below the sea surface. The instrument is equipped with shear probes, a high-resolution pressure sensor, and an inertial motion package to measure time series of dissipation rate and nondirectional surface wave energy spectrum. A free-falling profiler is used additionally to collect vertical microstructure profiles in the upper ocean. For the model simulations, we use a one-dimensional mixed layer model based on a k–ε type second moment turbulence closure, which is modified to include the effects of wave breaking and Langmuir cells. The dissipation rates obtained using the modified k–ε model are elevated near the sea surface and in the upper water column, consistent with the measurements, mainly as a result of wave breaking at the surface, and energy drawn from wave field to the mean flow by Stokes drift. The agreement between observed and simulated turbulent quantities is fairly good, especially when the Stokes production is taken into account.     

Application of third generation shallow water wave models in a tidal environment

Wave modeling was performed in the German Bight of the North Sea during November 2002, using the spectral wave models, namely the K-model and Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN), both developed for applications in environments of shallow water depths. These models mainly differ with respect to their dissipation source term expressions and in exclusion or inclusion of nonlinear wave–wave interactions. The K-model uses nonlinear dissipation and bottom dissipation, and neglects quadruplet wave–wave interaction whereas, SWAN includes, besides bottom dissipation, dissipation by white-capping and depth induced wave breaking and triad wave–wave interaction. The boundary spectra were extracted from the WAM model results of a North Sea hindcast of the HIPOCAS project, wind fields, tidal current and water level variations from the results of models used in the Belawatt project. The purpose of this study was to test the performance of both wave models to see whether they were able to predict near-shore wave conditions accurately. The runs were performed with and without tidal current and level variations to determine their effect on the waves. Comparisons of model results with buoy measurements show that taking into account tides and currents improve the spectral shape especially in areas of high current speeds. Whereas SWAN performed better in terms of spectral shape, especially in case of two peaked spectra, the K-model showed better results in terms of integrated parameters.Responsible Editor: Hans Burchard     

Reflection and transmission ofSH waves in an initially stressed medium consisting of a sandy layer lying over a fluid-saturated porous solid

Biot's theory is employed to study the reflection and transmission ofSH waves in a sandy layer lying over a fluid-saturated porous solid half-space. The entire medium is considered under constant initial stress. Effects of sandiness, initial stress, anelasticity and viscosity of the interstitial fluid on the partitioning of energy are studied. In the presence of initial stress the incident wave starts attenuating when incider beyond a certain angle (depending upon the amount of initial stress), even if the medium is perfectly clastic. Anelasticity of the solid layer results in the dissipation of energy during transmission. The direction of attenuation vector of incident wave affects the dissipation energy to a large extent. Effect on partitioning of energy reverse at incidence after the critical angle. A complete account of energy returmed back to the underlying half-space and that which is dissipated in the overlying layer has been discussed analytically as well as numerically.     

大跨径拱桥被动减震控制的仿真分析

本文采用现代控制理论对设有耗能减震装置的拱桥结构进行被动减震控制仿真分析,给出了大跨度拱桥在多点激励下的运动微分方程,将拱桥简化成平面杆系模型,给出减震结构的状态方程,然后基于SIMULINK环境下对设有粘滞阻尼器的拱桥减震结构进行动态仿真分析,并考虑了行波效应对减震效果的影响。该方法较之传统的分析方法更简便、有效,分析结果表明设置了耗能器的拱桥结构地震反应有明显的降低。     

A comparison of acoustic turbulence profiling techniques in the presence of waves

In order to measure turbulent quantities in coastal waters, one must either avoid or confront the confounding effect of waves. In previous work, we have developed a method to cancel waves when using the variance technique to compute Reynolds stress from acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data. In this paper, we extend this wave cancellation methodology to measurements of turbulent kinetic energy and dissipation using velocities measured along a single acoustic beam. Velocity profiles were collected using a Teledyne/RDI 1,200 kHz ADCP and a Nortek AWAC. The AWAC has a vertical beam that was programmed by Nortek to deliver profiles of vertical velocity. Vertical velocities are desirable both because they eliminate sources of phase error in the wave cancellation procedure and because they constrain measurement uncertainty with respect to turbulent anisotropy. Results indicate that acoustic profiles taken in standard Doppler mode, to which the vertical beam of the AWAC was limited, were too noisy to resolve turbulence under the deployment conditions herein. Pulse-to-pulse coherent modes such as those available on the ADCP were sufficiently low noise to resolve turbulent signals; however, vertical beam data are not available for this device. Nevertheless, our wave cancellation methodology was successful in removing the overwhelming variance associated with waves from both instruments, allowing realistic estimates of Reynolds stress, turbulent kinetic energy, and dissipation from the ADCP. This method holds even more promise as low-noise operating modes are developed for vertical beam acoustic profiling instruments such as the AWAC.     

A note on Stokes production of turbulence kinetic energy in the oceanic mixed layer: observations in the Baltic Sea

Shear- and convection-driven turbulence coexists with wind-generated surface gravity waves in the upper ocean. The turbulent Reynolds stresses in the oceanic mixed layer can therefore interact with the shear of the wave-generated Stokes drift velocity to extract energy from the surface waves and inject it into turbulence, thus augmenting the mean shear-driven turbulence. Stokes production of turbulence kinetic energy (TKE) is difficult to measure in the field, since it requires simultaneous measurement of the turbulent stress and the Stokes drift profiles in the water column. However, it is readily inferred using second moment closure models of the oceanic mixed layer provided: (1) wave properties are available, along with the usual water mass properties, and radiative and air–sea fluxes needed to drive the mixed layer model and (2) the model skill can be assessed by comparing the model results against the observed dissipation rates of TKE. Comprehensive measurements made during the Reynolds 2002 campaign in the Baltic Sea have made the estimation of Stokes production possible, and in this paper, we report on the effort and the conclusions reached. Measurements of air–sea exchange parameters and water mass properties during the campaign allowed a mixed layer model to be run and the turbulent stress in the water column to be inferred. Simultaneous wave spectrum measurements enabled Stokes drift profile to be deduced and wave breaking to be included in the model run, and the Stokes production of TKE in the water column estimated. Direct measurements of the TKE dissipation rate from an upward traversing microstructure profiler were used to assure that the model could reproduce the turbulent dissipation rate in the water column. The model results indicate that the Stokes production of TKE in the mixed layer is of the same order of magnitude as the shear production and must therefore be included in mixed layer models.     

A two-dimensional horizontal wave propagation and mud mass transport model

The present study offers a two-dimensional horizontal wave propagation and morphodynamic model for muddy coasts. The model can be applied on a general three-dimensional bathymetry of a soft muddy coast to calculate wave damping, fluid mud mass transport and resulting bathymetry change under wave actions. The wave propagation model is based on time-dependent mild slope equations including the wave energy dissipation due to the wave-mud interaction of bottom mud layers as well as the combined effects of the wave refraction, diffraction and breaking. The constitutive equations of the visco-elastic–plastic model are adopted for the rheological behavior of fluid mud. The mass transport velocity within the fluid mud layer is calculated combining the Stokes’ drift, the mean Eulerian velocity and the gravity-driven mud flow. The results of the numerical model are compared against a series of conducted wave basin experiments, wave flume experiments and field observations. Comparisons between the computed results with both the field and laboratory data reveal the capability of the proposed model to predict the wave transformation and mud mass transport.     

Role of basic rheological models in determination of wave attenuation over muddy seabeds

Among rheological models for estimating the rate of dissipation of non-breaking waves in muddy seabeds, those representing viscoelastic and poroelastic behaviors are used widely. In that regard, the dependence of the wave attenuation coefficient derived from basic rheological representations of mud behavior is examined on a cursory basis. For wave attenuation due to viscoelastic muds, results based on a semi-analytical model incorporating the effects of typically thin mud layers are summarized. This and an existing model for poroelastic beds are tested against selective laboratory data. Relying on these tests, it is emphasized that fluid-like mud should be modeled as a viscoelastic fluid medium, and that only non-fluid beds can be modeled as poroelastic media. Mechanisms for energy dissipation depend on bed compactness specified by the solids volume fraction, porosity or density, and on a characteristic Péclet number defined in terms of particle size, permeability and wave frequency. Due to the role of the latter parameter, for simulation of wave attenuation the chosen rheological model for a bed of given compactness must be applicable over the expected range of wave frequency.     

Turbulent mechanisms in open channel sediment-laden flows

The effects of turbulence on water-sediment mixtures is a critical issue in studying sediment-laden flows. The sediment concentrations and particle inertia play a significant role in the effects of turbulence on mixtures. A two-phase mixture turbulence model was applied to investigate the turbulence mechanisms affecting sediment-laden flows. The two-phase mixture turbulence model takes into account the complicated mechanisms arising from interphase transfer of turbulent kinetic energy, particle collisions, and stratification. The turbulence in sediment-laden flows is the result of the interaction of four factors, i.e. the production, dissipation, diffusion, and inter-phase transfer of turbulent kinetic energy of mixtures. The turbulence production and dissipation are two dominant processes which balance the turbulent kinetic energy of mixtures. The turbulence production represents turbulence intensity, while the inter-phase transfer of turbulent kinetic energy denotes the effect of particles on the turbulence of sediment-laden flows. Although, the magnitude of the inter-phase interaction term is much less than that of the turbulence production and dissipation terms, due to an approximate local balance between production and dissipation of the turbulent kinetic energy, even the small order of the inter-phase interaction has a significant impact on the turbulent balance of sediment-laden flows. The presence of particles plays a duel role in the turbulence dissipation of mixtures: both promotion and suppression. An important parameter used to determine the turbulent viscosity of mixtures, which is constant in clear water, is the function of the sediment concentration and particle inertia in sediment-laden flows.