On the relation between the growth rate of water waves and wind speed

Various wind velocitiesu _*,U _/2,U andU ₁₀ are correlated to the measured growth rate of water waves , whereu _* is the friction velocity of the wind, andU _/2,U andU ₁₀ are the wind speeds respectively at the heights /2, and 10m above sea surface (: wave length). It is shown that within a range of the dimensionless wind speed, 0.1<u _* /C<0.6, there are no appreciable differences in the correlations, whereC is the phase velocity of water waves. The present relation between andU shows qualitatively similar properties as the one obtained by Al'Zanaidi and Hui (1984); the growth rate for waves with rough surface is larger than that with smooth surface. However, our present relations give, for the both waves with different surface roughness, larger values by factors 1.71.8 than those given by Al'Zanaidi and Hui's relation.     

Transmission and reflection of planetary and topographic Rossby waves in a two-layer ocean

Transmission and reflection problems when kissing≓ occurs among planetary and topographic Rossby waves in a two-layer ocean are studied. The slope parameterS(=dh ₂/dx, whereh ₂is the thickness of the lower layer) is assumed to have constant values in the regionsx 0 andxL and to vary linearly with the increase ofx in the region0xL (refer to Fig. 2 in the text). Furthermore, a wave is entered fromx=– and kissing is assumed to occur in the region (0<)x _axx_b(<L).It is found that a wave of the same type as the incident wave is mainly transmitted when the width of the region in which kissing occurs,L _kiss(=tx _b–x_a), is smaller than _kiss=2/(¦K¦+ _y/2), whereK is a representative wavenumber in the regionx _ab, _y is they-component of , and is the frequency. WhenL _kiss is larger than _kiss, on the other hand, the main wave transmitted is of a different type to the incident wave. As an application, transmission and reflection problems of planetary Rossby waves are considered, and it is shown that when an external (internal) planetary Rossby wave is entered, an internal (external) one can be transmitted due to the effect of kissing.     

Encystment ofChattonella antiqua in laboratory cultures

Cysts ofChattonella antiqua (Raphidophyceae) were obtained in laboratory cultures for the first time. They were formed on the surface of glass coverslips added to both P- and N- depleted mediums. The yield was 50–250 cysts cm^–2. Crossing experiments showed the highest cyst production in mixed cultures, although cysts were observed in clonal cultures as well. Cysts had approximately double the DNA content of synchronously growing vegetative cells (G₁ phase). The encystment process was also monitored: Under P-depleted conditions, small cells were formed that fused to become a triangle-shaped cell which in turn changed into a cyst.These results strongly suggest that cysts are the products of fusion and are diploid. Small cells, triangle-shaped cells, and cysts are considered to be gametes, planozygotes, and hypnozygotes, respectively. Significant mortality was observed in laboratory cysts stored in the cold and dark for five months, although those remaining were capable of germination to reestablish a motile, vegetative population.     

Analytically derived wind-wave directional spectrum part 1. Derivation of the spectrum

In contrast with the usual method to obtain the wind-wave directional spectrum by multiplying the frequency spectrum with an empirical directional function, the authors attempt to derive analytically the directional spectrum by adopting proper spectral form and using effective parameters, namely, the zero order momentm ₀ of the wind-wave frequency spectrumS(), its peak frequency ₀ and the so-called peakness factorP=₀ S(₀)/m ₀, where is angular frequency. The directional spectrum is given in a form of frequency spectrum for each direction. The spectral directionality depends on, in addition to frequency, the wind-wave growth status, for the peakness factorP as introduced by the authors previously is a measure of the wave development stage. The salient features of the directional spectrum, comparison with existing formulas and the verification of the spectrum by observational data are to be given in the Part 2 of the paper.Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

Radiation balance and heat budget at the ocean/atmosphere interface in the western North Pacific

The downward short- and long-wave radiation fluxes at the sea surface (S, L) were measured aboard the R/VHakuho Maru, University of Tokyo, for the period of 117 days on six cruises from 1981 to 1985 in the western North Pacific near Japan. The upward fluxes of short- and long-wave radiation (S, L) were calculated by Payne's (1972) table and the Stefan-Boltzmann's law, respectively. The sensible and laten heat fluxes (Q _h ,Q _e ) were also estimated from an aerodynamic bulk method.From April to August, the daily mean value ofS varied with the amplitude of 100200 Wm^–2. The value ofS was estimated approximately 6% ofS in all seasons. The difference betweenL andL was so small that the net radiation flux (Q _n ) was dominated byS. In addition, the net heat flux at the sea surface was also dominated byS due to small values ofQ _h andQ _e , and then the ocean was warmed at the rate of 111 Wm^–2 in April and 63 Wm^–2 in August in the Oyashio Area, and 132 Wm^–2 in May and 164 Wm^–2 in June in the Kuroshio Area, respectively.From September to March, a remarkable negative correlation between the day to day variation ofS and that ofL was observed except when an intense cold air outbreak occurred. It was found that the correlation was caused by the cloud climatological feature of the western North Pacific in this period.S was not a dominant factor in the net heat flux. The value ofQ _h +Q _e in the Kuroshio Area ranged from 260 Wm^–2 to 630 Wm^–2, much larger thanQ _n which ranged from –8 Wm^–2 to 92 Wm^–2 in the leg mean values (each leg period was about 10 days). Then the ocean was cooled at the rate of –160–620 Wm^–2 during this period. The net heat flux in the Kuroshio Area averaged over five legs from late November to February was –473 Wm^–2. This value is 50100% larger than the climatological values reported so far.The temporal and spatial variability of radiation fluxes and heat fluxes during each leg was also discussed.     

Analysis of photographic images of the structure of the surface of the sea near a speck of light

Values of root mean square slope ₀ and its variations -₀ are estimated using the brightness field of an image of the surface of the sea near a speck of light. When ₀ and -₀ are defined it is highly important to take into account direct as well as dissipated solar radiation.The space-time analysis of the structure of the image brightness field is performed. This gives an opportunity to estimate dispersion relationship and the running effect of a brightness contrast packet. Comparison of the parameters obtained with the theoretical dispersion ratio of internal waves (IW) allows one to make a conclusion that IW surface manifestations are recorded in a frame.UDK 551.463.5     

Numerical Modeling of Wave-Enhanced Turbulence in the Oceanic Upper Layer

A coupled model of air-wave-sea interaction is modified based on a new roughness formulation and the latest data. The model parameters for aerodynamic roughness from below (ARB) and wave-dependent roughness from above (ARA, z _0a ) are assumed equal. The combined roughness is assumed to be a function of friction velocity, gravity, air and seawater densities, and wave age (c _w ). The model is used in a study of wave-enhanced turbulence under breaking waves to predict turbulent dissipation (), ARA, and drag coefficient (C _d ). Both waves and shear production are considered as sources of ocean turbulent energy. The atmospheric part of the model is used only to specify a correct condition at the interface. Numerical experiments are performed to study the -distribution, z _0a and C _d , and to compare with data. The major achievement is model verification using all available data. The first full application of this model is in conjunction with an ocean circulation model in a coupled circulation-wave system. Simulations show that the -distribution is strongly dependent on local wind-forced wave heights. For each wind and wave state there is a particular wave-dependent depth that is verified by data. The comparison shows that the model predicted agrees well with the observed of the z ^–4 law distribution of Gargett (1989). Simulations also show that waves have an important role in causing to differ from the classical wall-layer theory and z _0a , with a value of 0.30 for the empirical constant a _a . The model-predicted , z _0a , C _d and C _gd agree well with data.     

Seasonal variability and the types of currents in the upper layer of the Black Sea

Spectral analysis of the climatic circulation in the upper 10 m layer of the Black Sea has been carried out. The current field was calculated from a three-dimensional baroclinic non-linear model. The mode composition of the circulation was derived. It is shown that the surface climatic circulation can be represented as the superposition of a finite number of elementary currents of two types:n- andm-modes. Only 4n-modes are shown to be energy-dominant throughout the year. A relation is established between the different sources of energy supply of currents and the modes which assimilate this energy. Problems concerning the nature of the classical Black Sea currents such as the main Black Sea current (MBSC) and the Knipovich spectacles are discussed. A scenario of the field large-scale experiment is suggested which allows the reconstruction of the amplitudes of the first 10n- and the first 10m-modes from mooring data.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Calcium-alkalinity relationship in the North Pacific

The dissolution of calcium carbonate in deep ocean water causes variation in calcium concentration (Ca) and alkalinity (TA) in the ratio of one to two. The decomposition of organic matter generates nitric acid, phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid. A proton flux which is derived from this process also changes alkalinity. Using the variation in nitrate concentration (NO₃) as an index of the proton flux, the relationship betweenCa,TA andNO₃ is expressed asCa=0.5TA+0.63NO₃ The values of Ca obtained from direct measurements in the North Pacific are in good agreement with the values estimated from this equation.     

AOU as indicator of water-flow direction in the central North Pacific

Salinity, preformed phosphate and AOU distribution on the sigma-t surfaces of 26.8 and 27.3 of the central North Pacific Ocean, as well as the topography of these density surfaces, were studied. The direction of water flow suggested by the AOU distribution on these density surfaces was compared to that indicated by the acceleration potential contours on the _t =125 cl/ton and _t =80cl/ton surfaces drawn by Joseph L.Reid, Jr. The disagreements were explained in terms of mixing and possible gradients of primary production at the sea surface. On the 26.8 sigma-t surface a southward flow connecting the westward flow south of the Aleutian chain and the eastward flow farther south, between 175E and 180 is suggested by the AOU distribution but is not implied by the acceleration potential contours. If the circulation pattern at this density surface is similar to that at the sea surface, this southward flow is very likely to be real.     

Field data support of three-seconds power law andgu *σ−4-spectral form for growing wind waves

Observational data on air-sea boundary processes at the Shirahama Oceanographic Tower Station, Kyoto University, obtained in November, 1969, was analyzed and presented as an example representing the structure of growing wind-wave field. The condition was an ideal onshore wind, and the data contained continuous records of the wind speed at four heights, the wind direction, the air and water temperatures, the tides, and the growing wind waves, for more than six hours. The main results are as follows. Firstly, in both of the wind speed and the sea surface wind stress, rather conspicuous variations of about six-minute period were appreciable. Secondly, the three-seconds power law and its lemma expressed byH ^*=BT ^*3/2 and=2BT ^*–1/2, respectively, are very well supported by the data, whereH ^*(gH/u _* ²) andT ^*(gT/u _*) are the dimensionless significant wave height and period, respectively, the wave steepness,u _* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, andB=0.062 is a universal constant. Thirdly, the spectral form for the high-frequency side of the spectral maximum is well expressed by the form of()= _sgu_*^–4, where is the angular frequency and() the spectral density. The value of _s is determined as 0.062±0.010 from the observational data. There is a conspicuous discrepancy between the spectral shape of wind waves obtained in wind-wave tunnels and those in the sea, the former containing well-defined higher harmonics of the spectral peak, and consequently there is an apparent difference in the values of _s also. However, it is shown that the discrepancy of _s may be eliminated by evaluating properly the energy level of the spectral form containing higher harmonics.     

Algal Growth Potential and the limiting nutrient in Mikawa Bay

The Algal Growth Potential (AGP) of water samples collected off Gamagori in Mikawa Bay was measured from May 1978 through February 1979, and the limiting nutrient was determined using regression analysis and enrichment bioassays. The surface and bottom water samples had AGP that produced increments of chemical oxygen demand (COD) of 2.1 mg l^–1 and 3.1 mg l^–1, respectively, on average. These values ofCOD correspond to 46% and 97% of the average COD values of the raw water samples at the surface and bottom, respectively. Seasonal changes of AGP showed a close correlation with those of dissolved inorganic nitrogen (DIN) concentration. Enrichment bioassays showed that DIN was the most deficient nutrient. The DIN:phosphate-phosphorus (PO₄ ^3–-P) ratios and DIN: dissolved phosphorus (DP) ratios in the water samples were below the cellular N:P ratios of the natural algal populations. These results suggest that AGP was mainly limited by DIN concentration.     

Observations of natural fluorescence with an underwater radiometer

Measurements of subsurface irradiance spectra in the ocean consistently indicate intensities of long-wavelength visible light (589 nm) greater than could be derived from the penetration of sunlight. This can be attributed to natural fluorescence and/or to spectral crosstalk due to light leakage through the blocking filters of each discrete detector. A comparison of observed profiles with modelled contributions from these two possible sources indicates that both factors are contributing. At 671 and 694 nm wavelength, the excess signal appears to be predominantly fluorescence while that at 589 nm is mostly crosstalk. Both effects appear to be important at 625 nm although the amount of excess light is small compared to the other wavelengths.The above observations and interpretations are consistent with the optical design of the instrument used and the shape of natural irradiance spectra. Fluorescence efficiencies derived from the irradiance measurements correlate well with measuredin situ fluorescence.     

Regeneration of silicate in the ocean

Regeneration of silicate in the Japan Sea, an example of semi-closed sea, was studied. In the Japan Sea Proper Water the apparent regenerative ratio of the nutrients was determined to be:O C N P Si=–289 (116)14.3181.It was assumed that the dissolved silicate present in sea water is grouped into three fractions; 1)preformed silicate of conservative nature, 2)oxidative silicate which dissolves in oxidation process of organisms with consumption of oxygen, and 3)non-oxidative silicate which dissolves without oxygen consumption. The dissolution rate ofnon-oxidative silicate in the Japan Sea Proper Water was estimated to be 0.07g-at. Si/l/yr from the data ofAOU values and assumed rates of oxygen consumption. This dissolution rate ofnon-oxidative silicate agreed with that obtained in the deep Pacific by the vertical advection diffusion model byKido andNishimura (1972).     

Formation of the vertical salinity profile in the Black Sea

The vertical distribution of salts brought by the Bosphorus undercurrent is numerically evaluated. By multiplying the average vertical salinity gradient by the diffusion coefficient,K _z , and the cross-section of the sea at the appropriate depth, we can determine the total vertical salt flux,Q(z). The derivative ofQ with respect toz depicts the salt source intensity distribution over depth. The highest intensity, Q/z, matches the 200 m depth level, i.e. the shelf edge. Below 1500 m, Q/z equals merely 0.1% of the value observed at a depth of 200 m. Above 37 m, salts are noted to sink, which corresponds to their outflow with the Bosphorus current. The distribution of Q/z and the respective values of mineral phosphorus and hydrogen sulphide are matched up.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes

A combination of the three-second power law, presented in part I for wind waves of simple spectrum, and the similarity of the spectral form of wind waves, leads to a new concept on the energy spectrum of wind waves. It is well substantiated by data from a wind-wave tunnel experiment.In the gravity wave range, the gross form of the high frequency side of the spectrum is proportional tog u _* ^–4, whereg represents the acceleration of gravity,u _* the friction velocity, the angular frequency, and the factor of proportionality is 2.0×l0^–2. The wind waves grow in such a way that the spectrum slides up, keeping its similar form, along the line of the gross form, on the logarithmic diagram of the spectral density,, versus. Also, the terminal value of, at the peak frequency of the fully developed sea, is along a line of the gradient ofg ^{2 –5}.The fine structure of the spectrum from the wind-wave tunnel experiment shows a characteristic form oscillating around the ^–4-line. The excess of the energy density concentrates around the peak frequency and the second- and the third-order harmonics, and the deficit occurs in the middle of these frequencies. This form of the fine structure is always similar in the gravity wave range, in purely controlled conditions such as in a wind-wave tunnel. Moving averages of these spectra tend very close to the form proportional to ^–5.As the wave number becomes large, the effect of surface tension is incorporated, and the ^–4-line in the gravity wave range gradually continues to a ^–8/3-line in the capillary wave range, in accordance with the wind-wave tunnel data. Likewise, the ^–5-line gradually continues to a ^–7/3-line.Also, through a discussion on these results, is suggested the existence of a kind of general similarity in the structure of wind wave field.     

Effect of the shape of an underwater coastal slope on the hydrodynamic instability parameters of a long-shore wave current in a surf zone

This paper reports the results of a numerical study on the hydrodynamic instability parameters of a long-shore wave current in a surf zone with convex and concave bottom profiles. The limits of the change of the relative length of a long-shore meander have been derived in the form of 2/66, and structural and dynamic peculiarities of perturbations in a surf zone with various bottom profiles have been demonstrated.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Kinetics of nitrate and ammonium uptake by the natural populations of marine phytoplankton in the surface water of the Oyashio region during spring and summer

The maximum uptake rate (_max) and affinity constant (K _s) for nitrate and ammonium were estimated in the surface water of offshore Oyashio in May (spring) and September (summer), 1990. The average _max/Chl.a for ammonium was 2.1 times larger than that of nitrate in both seasons. The average _max/Chl.a for both nitrogens were 3.5 times larger in summer than in spring. Water temperature and size composition of phytoplankton population were related to the seasonal difference in the _max/Chl.a. Phytoplankton population showed high affinity for both nitrogens in the spring and summer. In addition, the contribution of new production to total production was estimated by _max[_max–No₃/(_max–NO₃+_max–NH₄)]. The spring value was in the range of 0.26 to 0.45 (mean±SD=0.35±0.092), and the values in spring bloom were especially a little over 0.4. The summer value was in the range of 0.30 to 0.37 (0.34±0.04).     

Bispectra of spike-array type time series and their application to the analysis of oceanic microstructures

Bispectral analysis is applied to records of the vertical profile of the vertical temperature gradient in the oceanic thermocline in the San Diego Trough. The bispectra exhibit three notable features; (1) bispectral peaks at the points (0.2 m^–1, 0.2 m^–1) and (0.2 m^–1, 0.1 m^–1), (2) bispectral ridges along the lines ( ₁= ₀, ₂= ₀ and ₁+ ₂= ₀ corresponding to peak wavenumbers ₀ in power spectra, and (3) array of bispectral peaks of interval of 0.2 m^–1 The results are compared with the bispectra of several modeled time series of spike-array type. The periodicity of 5 m found in the records seems to have two meanings: spacing of predominant spikes and wavelength of predominant sinusoidal wave. If this indicates the existence of internal waves having a vertical wavelength the same as the scale of homogeneous layers, it would suggest the possible importance of internal waves in the formation and maintenance mechanisms of oceanic microstructure.     

Abundance and size composition of the summer phytoplankton communities in the western North Pacific Ocean,the Bering Sea,and the Gulf of Alaska

Chlorophylla concentrations (Chla) of size-fractionated phytoplankton samples were measured in the western North Pacific Ocean, the Bering Sea, and the Gulf of Alaska during the summer of 1986. Among samples collected in the upper 100 m (total of 210 samples), 207 samples were dominated by micro- (>10 m) or picoplankton (<2 m) and only three samples were represented by nanoplankton (2–10 m). These 207 samples were classified based on the total Chla content into three types: Type H (>1.0 g l^–1), Type M (0.5–1.0 g l^–1), and Type L (<0.5 g l^–1). These types further divided into two subtypes (-p and-m), depending upon dominancy of pico (-p) and microplankton (-m). The phytoplankton community was represented by Type L-p in the Gulf of Alaska, where 80% of the samples fell into this type. It was represented by Type M-p in the western North Pacific and the Oceanic Domain in the Bering Sea, where 53 and 41% of samples were identified as this type, respectively. In the Middle Domain of the Bering Sea, 68% of samples collected below the nitracline was Type H-m, which indicates blooms of microplanton. This type was also observed in the neritic waters near the Aleutian Islands. These types described above are consistent with a general trend that an increase in phytoplankton abundance is attributed to the growth of microplankton. An unusual type occurred above the nitracline of the Middle Domain, where microplankton prevailed, although the total Chla was less (Type L-m). This type represents a feature of late phase of an ice edge bloom. Another unusual type was found mainly in the Outer Domain of the Bering Sea, where the total Chla was high and picoplankton prevailed (Type H-p). The predominance of picoplankton seems to result from the heavy grazing intensity of large calanoid copepods upon microplankton but not upon picoplankton