A conceptual model of depositional,rather than erosional,tidal channel development in the rapidly prograding Skagit River Delta (Washington,USA)

The origin and growth of blind tidal channels is generally considered to be an erosional process. This paper describes a contrasting depositional model for blind tidal channel origin and development in the Skagit River delta, Washington, USA. Chronological sequences of historical maps and photos spanning the last century show that as sediments accumulated at the river mouth, vegetation colonization created marsh islands that splintered the river into distributaries. The marsh islands coalesced when intervening distributary channels gradually narrowed and finally closed at the upstream end to form a blind tidal channel, or at mid‐length to form two blind tidal channels. Channel closure was probably often mediated through gradient reduction associated with marsh progradation and channel lengthening, coupled with large woody debris blockages. Blind tidal channel evolution from distributaries was common in the Skagit marshes from 1889 to the present, and it can account for the origin of very small modern blind tidal channels. The smallest observed distributary‐derived modern blind tidal channels have mean widths of 0·3 m, at the resolution limit of the modern orthophotographs. While channel initiation and persistence are similar processes in erosional systems, they are different processes in this depositional model. Once a channel is obstructed and isolated from distributary flow, only tidal flow remains and channel persistence becomes a function of tidal prism and tidal or wind/wave erosion. In rapidly prograding systems like the Skagit, blind tidal channel networks are probably inherited from the antecedent distributary network. Examination of large‐scale channel network geometry of such systems should therefore consider distributaries and blind tidal channels part of a common channel network and not entirely distinct elements of the system. Finally, managers of tidal habitat restoration projects generally assume an erosional model of tidal channel development. However, under circumstances conducive to progradation, depositional channel development may prevail instead. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Links between wave forcing,offshore islands and a macro‐tidal headland‐bound bay beach

Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short‐term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to six months. Dominant southerly and southwesterly waves caused sub and low tidal longshore drift from south towards north, while less frequent southeasterly waves generated counter drift. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones (spring tidal range of 7 · 5 m). Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides significant new insights into offshore island influences, shoreline behaviour and especially tidal setting Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The wave climate of Liverpool Bay—observations and modelling

Directional wave measurements have been made in Liverpool Bay by means of wave buoys and acoustic instruments within the footprint of a phased-array high frequency (HF) radar system, which measures currents and waves. Several years of data have now been collected and are supplemented by an 11-year wave model hindcast. Wave parameters have been derived from the various instruments and compared: the directional waverider buoy is taken to provide the ground truth, confirming the good observations obtained from the ADCP; the HF radar wave data have a positive bias, while the model data have a negative bias. The variation of wave climate over various time-scales from seasonal and inter-annual to inter-decadal is examined. Significant wave–current interactions may occur in this area of shallow water and high tidal range and the measurements provide a good test of coupled hydrodynamic-wave models. The waves are mainly fetch-limited: largest events are due to depressions, which track across the UK from SW, generating westerly and WNW winds in the right rear quadrant. Hence, the future extreme wave events will be closely related to future North Atlantic storm tracks. Projections of 50-year return period wave heights differ between different instruments and model datasets. The future wave climate of Liverpool Bay is not expected to change much from the present day; although a slight increase in the severity of the most extreme events is projected, the frequency of extreme wind and wave events in general is slightly reduced. There is evidence for variability on decadal time-scales, with some correlation with the North Atlantic oscillation.     

Geomorphological response to an extreme flood: A case from southeast Spain

On 28–29 September 1980 an extreme storm of 150 mm of rain in c. 5 hours caused a flash flood near Tabernas in a semi-arid area in southern Spain. With the rainfall total approximating the mean annual rainfall the recurrence interval is estimated to be 25–100 years. Flood peak discharges have been estimated from a mountain source area across an alluvial fan and the geomorphological response to the storm described. Channel adjustment differed between channels in the fanhead trench and those unconfined channels on the fan surface. The implications of the spatial pattern of erosional an depositional feaures for landform adjustment in semi-arid regions are discussed.     

Long-term time-dependent stochastic modelling of extreme waves

This paper presents a literature survey on time-dependent statistical modelling of extreme waves and sea states. The focus is twofold: on statistical modelling of extreme waves and space- and time-dependent statistical modelling. The first part will consist of a literature review of statistical modelling of extreme waves and wave parameters, most notably on the modelling of extreme significant wave height. The second part will focus on statistical modelling of time- and space-dependent variables in a more general sense, and will focus on the methodology and models used also in other relevant application areas. It was found that limited effort has been put on developing statistical models for waves incorporating spatial and long-term temporal variability and it is suggested that model improvements could be achieved by adopting approaches from other application areas. In particular, Bayesian hierarchical space–time models were identified as promising tools for spatio-temporal modelling of extreme waves. Finally, a review of projections of future extreme wave climate is presented.     

Effects of the 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami and human activities on long-term coastal geomorphic development in northeastern Tohoku,Japan

The 2011 Tohoku-oki tsunami caused large-scale topographic changes along the Pacific coast of northeastern Japan. More than 10 years have passed since the tsunami waves struck the area. Today, because of reconstruction work, very few places exist where natural post-tsunami topographic changes can be monitored continuously. For this study, the authors investigated topographic changes caused not only by the 2011 tsunami but also by natural and artificial activities during the 50 years before and after the tsunami based on aerial photographs, excavations and subsurface explorations using ground-penetrating radar at the Osuka coast in Aomori prefecture, Japan. The site is rare because it is a protected area with few and superficial engineering activities, making it suitable for continuous observation of pre-tsunami, syn-tsunami and post-tsunami topographic changes. The findings indicate that the 2011 tsunami waves generated large topographic changes: depositional and erosional features produced by the tsunami can be recognized, respectively, as tsunami deposits and erosional channels across the sand dunes. During the post-tsunami phase, the sand volume at the coast quickly recovered naturally. Tsunami deposits and the erosional channels were well preserved underground even at 10 years after the event. However, dynamic movement of the dunes started after the tsunami. The shifting was attributable to the artificial clearing of coastal forests rather than the tsunami effects on the coast. Our results first indicate not only that the sedimentary features of paleo-tsunamis but also the erosional features have some probability of being preserved in the subsurface of the beach and sand dunes at tsunami-affected areas. Also, artificial activities such as deforestation are much more crucially undermining of the stability of the coastal geomorphology than the tsunami effects: the coast is now reaching a different status from its pre-tsunami situation.     

Planimetric and volumetric changes of reef islands in response to wave conditions

Reef islands are morphologically dynamic features located on atolls and platform reefs that are very sensitive to wave‐induced processes on different timescales. The planform morphological evolution of reef islands is widely described; however, the mechanisms of the volumetric variations in response to wave energy are still poorly documented. To assess their multitemporal vertical and horizontal mobility, we performed a series of synchronous measurements of the volumetric changes and incident wave energies at two reef islands and a shingle bank at the Rocas Atoll in the South Atlantic Ocean. The results show the differences in the magnitudes and locations of the sediment mobility between the reef islands. Whereas one island remained stable on all timescales, with only small volumetric changes concentrated at its extremities, the other island (Farol Island) showed high mobility, especially during the energetic northern swell season. The gross volumetric change reached 10.03 × 10³ m³ (5% of the total island volume) on a daily timescale; however, on a seasonal scale, the gross erosion was compensated by the gross accretion, indicating a cyclical seasonal pattern. Moreover, the observed volumetric changes induced by the waves on both daily and seasonal timescales did not result in large shoreline displacements. However, long‐term oceanward erosion and substantial lagoonward accretion were observed at Farol Island on a decadal scale, resulting in a pronounced change in its planform morphology. This appears to be promoted by at least three sediment transport pathways induced by waves at the atoll, including sediment adjustment between the reef islands. Our results show that reef islands on the same atoll can have very distinct morphological behaviors on daily, seasonal and decadal scales in response to the same boundary conditions. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Influence of seismic wave type and incident direction on the dynamic response of tall concrete-faced rockfill dams

Owing to the stochastic behavior of earthquakes and complex crustal structure, wave type and incident direction are uncertain when seismic waves arrive at a structure. In addition, because of the different types of the structures and terrains, the traveling wave effects have different influences on the dynamic response of the structures. For the tall concrete-faced rockfill dam (CFRD), it is not only built in the complex terrain such as river valley, but also its height has reached 300 m level, which puts forward higher requirements for the seismic safety of the anti-seepage system mainly comprising concrete face slabs, especially the accurate location of the weak area in seism. Considering the limitations of the traditional uniform vibration analysis method, we implemented an efficient dynamic interaction analysis between a tall CFRD and its foundation using a non-uniform wave input method with a viscous-spring artificial boundary and equivalent nodal loads. This method was then applied to investigate the dynamic stress distribution on the concrete face slabs for different seismic wave types and incident directions. The results indicate that dam-foundation interactions behave differently at different wave incident angles, and that the traveling wave effect becomes more evident in valley topography. Seismic wave type and incident direction dramatically influenced stress in the face slab, and the extreme stress values and distribution law will vary under oblique wave incidence. The influence of the incident direction on slab stress was particularly apparent when SH-waves arrived from the left bank. Specifically, the extreme stress values in the face slab increased with an increasing incident angle. Interestingly, the locations of the extreme stress values changed mainly along the axis of the dam, and did not exhibit large changes in height. The seismic safety of CFRDs is therefore lower at higher incident angles from an anti-seepage perspective. Therefore, it is necessary to consider both the seismic wave type and incident direction during seismic capacity evaluations of tall CFRDs.     

Deep water observations of extreme waves with moored and free GPS buoys

Point-positioning GPS-based wave measurements were conducted by deep ocean (over 5,000 m) surface buoys moored in the North West Pacific Ocean in 2009, 2012, and 2013. The observed surface elevation bears statistical characteristics of Gaussian, spectrally narrow ocean waves. The tail of the averaged spectrum follows the frequency to the power of ?4 slope, and the significant wave height and period satisfies the Toba’s 3/2 law. The observations compare well with a numerical wave hindcast. Two large freak waves exceeding 13 m in height were observed in October 2009 and three extreme waves around 20 m in height were observed in October 2012 and in January 2013. These extreme events are associated with passages of a typhoon and a mid-latitude cyclone. Horizontal movement of the buoy revealed that the orbital motion of the waves at the peak of the wave group mostly exceed the weakly nonlinear estimate. For some cases, the orbital velocity exceeded the group velocity, which might indicate a breaking event but is not conclusive yet.     

Role of basin‐wide landslides in the formation of extensive alluvial gemstone deposits in Sri Lanka

The tectonically stable central highlands of Sri Lanka and its alluvial valleys are the source areas and sinks, respectively, for one of the most prolific Quaternary gemstone provinces in the world. However, the known ¹⁰Be/²⁶Al cosmogenic‐nuclide‐determined low natural (preanthropogenic) denudation rates of 2–11 mm kyr^?1, and resulting sediment fluxes, are grossly inadequate to deliver the vast throughputs of overburden required to concentrate the known gemstone deposits. Basin‐wide, unstable, slow‐moving channelized landslides and debris flows, aided by biotic factors, are the dominant mechanisms of mass‐wasting on hill‐slopes and bulk delivery of sediment to the alluvial valleys and fluvial networks. Channelization ensures modulated sediment transfer and run‐out during an erosional–depositional continuum. In a selected inventory of landslides, mobilized sediment volumes ranged from less than 1000 cubic metres to a maximum of ～800 000 cubic metres per event. Monsoonal rainfall (both cumulative seasonal and total daily thresholds) is the primary external factor, which interacts with colluvium thickness and steep slopes in triggering landslides. There are three to five ‘threshold’ rainfall events per year in the highlands that can be expected to generate landslides. They can occur under conditions of decreasing daily rainfall as the seasonal total rainfall increases. GIS databases show a very significant spatial overlap and direct causal linkage between several hundred landslide occurrences and the innumerable gem pits and mines in the catchments of the best known mining region of Sri Lanka. Landslide‐associated mass movements, besides providing significant numbers of gemstones to the alluvial valleys over time, are also a fundamental factor in the geomorphic evolution of the rugged central highland landscape. Rainfall‐driven landslide activity may be a natural geological response affecting erosional equilibrium in high‐relief tectonically stable terrains. Climatically forced base level changes will, over time, control sediment storage, removal or reworking in the valleys. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

西北太平洋海岛地区地震背景噪声特征及海洋学解释

地震背景噪声特性及噪声源的分布研究逐渐成为深化背景噪声层析成像的关键问题.海岛地区由于特殊的地理位置,其背景噪声具有相对独特的特征.地脉动（约0.003~1 Hz）是地震背景噪声中能量最强的分量,其激发与特性被认为与海浪运动和固体地球之间的相互作用有关,但海岛地区地脉动特征与海洋波浪场之间的关系尚未被充分研究.本文利用西北太平洋海岛地震台站的连续记录数据、波浪浮标的实测数据以及WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ海浪模式的数值模拟结果,通过地震学和海洋学的交叉,分析海岛地区地脉动信号的时频特性及其与海洋波浪场之间的相关性,从海洋学角度对地脉动信号的特征及激发进行探讨与解释.结果表明,海岛地区地脉动信号相对于内陆地区更强,并具有明显且稳定的季节性变化特征：高频地脉动信号（0.12~0.32 Hz）在夏秋季节（5月-10月）相对较弱,而在冬春季节（11月-次年4月）相对较强,与北半球海洋活动季节性变化相一致.此外,海岛地区地脉动主要受周边海域波浪场影响,与周边海域波浪能功率密度及实测和数值模拟所得的有效波高均具有很好的互相关性.该研究结果同时表明可进一步发展利用地脉动观测数据反演海表波浪场的可能,为海洋科学研究中海表波浪场连续观测数据的获取提供地震学上的支持.     

Backshore coarsening processes triggered by wave‐induced sand transport: the critical role of storm events

Spatial backshore processes were investigated through field observations of topography and median sand grain size at a sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean in Japan. A comparison of the backshore profile and cross‐shore distribution of the median sand grain size in 1999 and 2004 revealed an unusual sedimentary process in which sand was coarsened in a depositional area in the 5‐year period, although sediment is generally coarsened in erosional areas. In support of these observations, monthly spatial field analyses carried out in 2004 demonstrated a remarkable backshore coarsening process triggered by sedimentation in the seaward part of the backshore during a storm event. In order to elucidate mechanisms involved in the backshore coarsening process, thresholds of movable sand grain size under wave and wind actions (a uniform parameter for both these cases) in the onshore and offshore directions were estimated using wave, tide, and wind data. The cross‐shore distributions of the estimated thresholds provided reasonable values and demonstrated a coarsening mechanism involving the intermediate zone around the shoreline under alternating wave and wind actions as a result of which coarse sand was transported toward the seaward part of the backshore by large waves during storms and then toward the landward part by strong onshore winds. The 5‐year backshore coarsening is most certainly explained by repetition of short‐term coarsening mechanisms caused by wave‐induced sand transport occurring from the nearshore to the intermediate zone. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd     

Island sheltering of surface gravity waves: model and experiment

A field experiment is used to evaluate a numerical model of the sheltering of gravity waves by islands offshore of the Southern California region. The sheltering model considered here includes only the effects of island blocking and wave refraction over the island bathymetry. Wave frequency and directional spectra measured in the deep ocean (unsheltered region west of the islands) were used as input to the sheltering model and compared with coastal observations. An airborne L-band synthetic aperture radar was used to image the directional properties of the waves in the deep ocean. In addition to the unsmoothed spectra, a unimodal directional spectrum model obtained from fits to the radar spectra was also employed to suppress the high noise level of this system. Coastal measurements were made in about 10 m depth at Torrey Pines Beach with a high resolution array of pressure sensors. The model predictions and data at Torrey Pines Beach agree well in a limited frequency range (0.082 to 0.114 Hz) where the unimodal deep ocean model is appropriate. The prediction that unimodal northern swell in the deep ocean results in a bimodal directional spectrum at Torrey Pines Beach is quantitatively verified. The northern peak of the bimodal spectra is due to waves coming through the window between San Clemente and San Miguel-Santa Rosa Islands. The southerly peak is due to wave refraction over Cortez and Tanner Banks. For lower frequency waves, the effects of strong refraction in the island vicinity are shown qualitatively. Refraction can theoretically supply up to approximately 10% of the deep ocean energy that is otherwise blocked at this site. The modifications of the island shadows due to wave refraction become theoretically negligible for wave frequencies 0.11Hz. Also, local wave generation effects, which are not included in this sheltering model, are shown to be occasionally important for waves with frequencies 0.12Hz.     

Watershed and ocean controls of salt marsh extent and resilience

The formation and evolution of tidal platforms are controlled by the feedbacks between hydrodynamics, geomorphology, vegetation, and sediment transport. Previous work mainly addresses dynamics at the scale of individual marsh platforms. Here, we develop a process-based model to investigate salt marsh depositional/erosional dynamics and resilience to environmental change at the scale of tidal basins. We evaluate how inputs of water and sediment from river and ocean sources interact, how losses of sediment to the ocean depend on this interaction, and how erosional/depositional dynamics are coupled to these exchanges. Model experiments consider a wide range of watershed, basin, and oceanic characteristics, represented by river discharge and suspended sediment concentration, basin dimensions, tidal range, and ocean sediment concentration. In some scenarios, the vertical accretion of a tidal flat can be greater than the rate of sea level rise. Under these conditions, vertical depositional dynamics can lead to transitions between tidal flat and salt marsh equilibrium states. This type of transition occurs much more rapidly than transitions occurring through horizontal marsh expansion or retreat. In addition, our analyses reveal that river inputs can affect the existence and extent of marsh/tidal flat equilibria by both directly providing suspended sediment (favoring marshes) and by modulating water exchanges with the ocean, thereby indirectly affecting the ocean sediment input to the system (favoring either marshes or tidal flats depending on the ratio of the river and ocean water inputs and their sediment concentrations). The model proposed has the goal of clarifying the roles of the main dynamic processes at play, rather than of predicting the evolution of a particular tidal system. Our model results most directly reflect micro- and meso-tidal environments but also have implications for macro-tidal settings. The model-based analyses presented extend our theoretical understanding of marsh dynamics to a greater range of intertidal environments. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The role of aerial algae in the formation of the landscape of the Yunnan Stone Forest,Yunnan Province, China

~~The role of aerial algae in the formation of the landscape of the Yunnan Stone Forest,Yunnan Province, China~~     

Modelling the Quaternary evolution of shore platforms and erosional continental shelves

A mathematical model was used to investigate the effect of glacially induced fluctuations in sea level on the evolution of wave‐cut shore platforms and erosional continental shelves during the Quaternary. The model used two deep‐water wave sets, which were used to calculate breaker height and depth, and the force of the waves at the waterline, according to the width and bottom roughness of the surf zone and the gradient of the submarine slope. The model also incorporated an erosional threshold related to the strength of the rocks, the number of hours each year in which the water level is at each intertidal elevation and the amount and persistence of the debris at the cliff foot. Most runs were made using a sea level model that consisted of 26 glacial cycles from 2 million to 0·9 million years ago, and nine, of approximately twice the amplitude and wavelength, in the last 0·9 million years. The model emphasized the dynamic association between the contemporary intertidal platform and the continental shelf. Both surfaces trend towards a state of static equilibrium under oscillating sea level conditions, when attenuated waves are unable to continue eroding the rock. If there has not been enough time to reduce the gradient of the shallower portions of the continental shelf, however, intertidal shore platforms can be in a temporary, though possibly long‐lasting, state of dynamic equilibrium. The model suggests that most platforms are, at least in part, inherited from one, or in many cases more, interglacial stages when sea level was similar to today's. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Traveling planetary waves in the stratosphere

This paper reviews the theory and observations of some traveling planetary waves in the stratosphere. Two categories of waves which appear prominently in the literature are discussed: westward propagating waves of periods in the range 3–7 days (the 5-day wave) and in the range 10–20 days (the 16-day wave). Although the observations seem to indicate that these waves are waves of the Rossby type (planetary waves), the evidence is less clear regarding (1) the question of whether these waves are forced internal waves or free (resonant) external waves, and (2) the identification of the observed waves with specific theoretical waves of the Rossby type. When recent observations are compared with theory, the evidence seems to favor the notion that the 5-day and 16-day waves of longitudinal wave number 1 may be identified, respectively, with the gravest and next gravest symmetric free Rossby modes. However, the observational evidence seems to be less clear regarding the nature of the 16-day wave than the 5-day wave.     

Oblique wave diffraction by a flexible floating structure in the presence of a submerged flexible structure

Expansion formulae associated with the interaction of oblique surface gravity waves with a floating flexible plate in the presence of a submerged horizontal flexible structure are derived using Green’s integral theorem in water of finite and infinite water depths. The associated Green’s functions are derived using the fundamental solution associated with the reduced wave equation. The integral forms of the Green’s functions and the velocity potentials are advantageous over the eigenfunction expansion method in situation when the roots of the dispersion relation coalesce. As an application of the expansion formulae, diffraction of oblique waves by a finite floating elastic plate in the presence of a submerged horizontal flexible membrane is investigated in water of finite depth. The accuracy of the numerical computation is demonstrated by analysing the convergence of the complex amplitude of the reflected waves and the energy relation. Effect of the submerged membrane on the diffraction of surface waves is studied by analysing the reflection and transmission coefficients for various parametric values. Further, the derivation of long wave equation under shallow water approximation is derived in a direct manner in the appendix. The concept and methodology can be easily extended to deal with acoustic wave interaction with flexible structures and related problems of mathematical physics and engineering.     

Erosion of a cyclic saltmarsh in Morecambe Bay,North-West England

This paper presents results of investigations (1983–1992) into rates of change, morphology and processes occurring during the current erosional phase in a Morecambe Bay cyclic saltmarsh, in which it has narrowed from c. 1000 m (1975) to c. 150 m (1992). Monthly monitoring of marsh edge erosion and creek knickpoint retreat has revealed temporal and spatial variations. Highest frequency changes of low magnitude coincided with non-storm conditions and overmarsh tides above 5·80 m OD, which submerged the whole marsh. Less frequent changes of greater magnitude were associated with both overmarsh tides and strong onshore winds over 15 ms^?1, which generated high energy waves. The lowest frequency change of greatest magnitude occurred during an extreme onshore storm event and surge. Morphologically, during the erosional phase, a low angled landward slope was generated as erosion of the c. 0·5 m high active seaward cliff coincided with vertical accretion of 0·07 ma^?1 of relatively coarse sediment on the marsh surface immediately landward. Tidal hydrodynamics strongly influence the saltmarsh, which is confined to the upper 2·5 m of the macrotidal range (maximum c. 10·5 m). During overmarsh spring tides (maximum creek flood flow rate 0·13 ms^?1, up to bankfull level), flooding begins over lower landward creek banks before submerging the higher marsh edge. During ebb tides, water trapped by this higher edge can escape seaward only via the creeks (maximum ebb velocities 2·07 ms^?1 below bankfull level). Wave erosion also is limited to spring tides. Monthly mapping of the Kent Estuary channel pattern seaward of the saltmarsh showed that medium term higher erosion rates were related to the presence of a large channel, which lowered the adjacent creek base level and allowed larger waves to attack the marsh edge than when a sandbank flanked the marsh. Major River Kent channel shifts appear to initiate accretional or erosional phases of cyclic saltmarsh development.