Coastal progradation in response to the recent sea level rise: a case study of El Grine coast, Gulf of Gabes (Southeastern Tunisia)

Over the last 30 years El Grine coast recorded significant morphological changes leading to the shoreline progradation. Diachronic coastal evolution, through a set of satellite images data, supported by sedimentologic analysis of five sand cores have been applied to elucidate tidal flat reaction following the recent sea level rise. We found that an emerging sandy barrier and salt marsh domain were shaped by the local hydro-sedimentary processes. The marine sediments, mobilised by wave and tide currents, have been the sole sedimentary source. Recent sandy accumulations, occurred around 1987, have been able to balance a recent sea level rise. While during a mid-Holocene period, El Grine coast was governed by net erosion tendency inducing cliff recession.     

Influence of friction on erosion and accretion processes in the Yavaros Bay,Gulf of California

A two-dimensional, vertically integrated, nonlinear numerical model was applied to investigate the tide-driven bed load transport of sediments and morphodynamics in the shallow coastal lagoon of Yavaros, located in the southeastern part of the Gulf of California, Mexico. Satellite imagery exposes strong sediment dynamics in this coastal region. The dynamics in the lagoon were forced by 13 tidal constituents at the open boundary. Tides are of a mixed character and they are predominantly semidiurnal. The calculations showed areas of intense tidal currents and considerable water exchange with the Gulf of California. Numerical experiments revealed an ebb-dominant tidal distortion and a net export of sediment from the lagoon to the Gulf of California. A simulation of 20 years showed that the lagoon exported about 1,600 m³ of sediment; however, the daily oscillating exchange of sediment reached values of around 8 m³. The daily averaged flux of export–import sediments oscillates principally with semiannual, monthly and fortnightly periods. By applying a threshold velocity, a variable friction coefficient and the calculated amplitude of tidal velocities, it was possible to determine that morphological changes occur in zones of sharp topographic gradients and to explain the effect of friction on the export–import process of sediments. A 10-year simulation revealed that accumulation of sediment (~20 cm) occurred in small areas, whereas erosion occurred in larger areas but with less intensity (~8 cm). Besides the importance for the morphodynamics, these kinds of erosion–accretion processes may be relevant for the marine ecology.     

Geological evolution of offshore pollution and its long-term potential impacts on marine ecosystems

Populations and metropolitan centers are accumulated in coastal areas around the world. In view of the fact that they are geographically adjacent to coasts and intense anthropogenic activities, increasing global offshore pollution has been an important worldwide concern over the past several decades and has become a very serious problem that needs to be addressed urgently. Due to offshore pollution, various geological disasters occur in high frequency, including intensified erosion and salinization of coastal soils, frequent geological collapses and landslides and increasing seismic activities. Moreover, offshore pollution shows increasingly serious impacts on the topography and geomorphology of offshore and coastal areas, including coastal degradation, retreating coastlines and estuary delta erosion. Offshore sedimentation processes are strongly influenced by the pH changes of terrestrial discharges, and sedimentary dynamics have become extremely acute and complex due to offshore pollution. The seabed topography and hydrodynamic environment determine the fate and transport of pollutants entering offshore regions. Coastal estuaries, port basins and lagoons that have relatively moderate ocean currents and winds are more likely to accumulate pollutants. Offshore regions and undersea canyons can be used as conduits for transporting pollutants from the continent to the seabed. It is particularly noteworthy that the spatial/temporal distribution of species, community structures, and ecological functions in offshore areas have undergone unprecedented changes in recent decades. Due to increasing offshore pollution, the stable succession and development trend of marine ecosystems has been broken. It is thus important to identify and regulate the quantity, composition and transportation of pollutants in offshore regions and their behavior in marine ecosystems. In particular, crucial actions for stabilizing marine ecosystems, including increasing species and biodiversity, should be implemented to enhance their anti-interference capabilities. This review provides an overview of the current situation of offshore pollution, as well as major trends of pollutant fate and transportation from continent to marine ecosystems, transformation of pollutants in sediments, and their bioaccumulation and diffusion. This study retrospectively reviews the long-term geological evolution of offshore pollution from the perspective of marine geology, and analyses their long-term potential impacts on marine ecosystems. Due to ecological risks associated with pollutants released from offshore sediments, more research on the influence of global offshore pollution based on marine geology is undoubtedly needed.     

渤海海峡潮流底应力与沉积物分布的关系

用数值模型方法计算了渤海海峡区潮流引起的最大和平均底应力,以及相应的活动层厚度的空间分布,并根据沉积物参数计算了沉积物临界起动切应力。计算结果的分析表明 :(1)最大潮流底应力和沉积物临界起动切应力的关系与底质分布之间存在着明显的对应,最大潮流底应力大于临界起动切应力的地方,分布着粗颗粒沉积物,若前者小于后者,对应的是细颗粒沉积物,若两者近于相等,则对应着较细颗粒的沉积物;(2 )在山东半岛北部近岸和渤海海峡的东北角,最大潮流底应力小于或接近于临界起动切应力的量值,而对应的沉积物是粉砂和砂,这一例外可能是由于残留沉积的出露,这一假说需要根据全新世海面上升历史、古水动力环境模拟、渤海海峡沉积环境演化等方面的研究来验证;(3)活动层厚度的分布规律与海底沉积物的分布存在着相关性 :即活动层厚度越大,对应的海底沉积物越粗;活动层厚度越小,对应的沉积物越细。     

准噶尔盆地南缘西段中、上侏罗统沉积演化及控制因素分析

针对准噶尔盆地南缘中、上侏罗统沉积体系演化控制因素不清、沉积模式不明等问题,通过对多条露头剖面精细解剖、详尽写实沉积特征描述等手段,分析了其垂向序列、砂体叠置方式、水动力条件、沉积体系演化及控制因素.研究表明准南中、上侏罗统自下而上分别发育辫状河沉积、曲流河沉积和扇三角洲沉积,古气候与构造造成的水动力条件的变化是控制这...     

台风风暴潮影响下潮滩沉积动力模拟初探--以江苏如东海岸为例

以江苏如东潮滩为研究区,采用沉积动力学垂向二维概念模型来模拟正常天气和台风期间潮滩沉积的空间分布特征,探讨台风风暴潮对潮滩正常沉积层序的改造作用.模拟结果表明,在涨落潮时间-流速对称特征明显的如东海岸,潮汐作用使潮滩沉积呈显著的分带性,且剖面形态向“双凸形”演化,两个“凸点”分别位于平均高潮位和平均低潮位附近.在台风期间风暴增水效应下,开边界悬沙浓度差异将导致潮滩冲淤和沉积分布格局的变化,潮上带和潮间带上部均堆积泥质沉积物,潮间带中下部在风暴过程中普遍遭受不同程度的砂质沉积物侵蚀或之后堆积泥质沉积物,在沉积层序中形成风暴冲刷面.因此,潮滩的风暴沉积记录存在于潮间带上部或更高部位.以此模型为基础,可进一步综合考虑极浅水边界层水动力结构、沉积物粒度分布变化、波-流联合作用、台风降水、互花米草等生物活动、潮沟摆动及人工围垦等因素,从而建立风暴事件在沉积层序中的时间序列,更好地解译沉积记录中的古环境信息.     

Temporal and spatial evolution of the coastal profiles along the Yellow River Delta over last three decades

The subaerial delta of the Yellow River has undergone a notable reshaping process with drastic changes in erosion and accretion patterns both temporally and spatially. These morphological changes not only have significant impact on the long-term evolution of delta but also pose severe threat to the existing infrastructures adjacent to the eroding delta lobe. This paper presents a data-based study of waves, currents, sediments and subaqueous bedforms including the application of Principal Component Analysis (PCA) to the measured coastal profiles in order to understand qualitative and quantitative processes that are responsible for the observed changes. The results demonstrated that the Yellow River Delta has recently been dominated by recession process due to the reduced sediment supply from the Yellow River in the recent decades. A critical threshold of river sediment discharge was formulated and used to explain the observed morphodynamic processes. It was found that the coast of the Yellow River Delta could be broadly divided into three geomorphic zones: the area near abandoned delta, the estuarine area, and Laizhou Bay. At the nearshore zone of the abandoned delta, waves are the main agent for bed erosion and sediments suspension. The tidal current is effective in transporting suspended sediments and exerts the main control on the depths of the erosion–accretion balance zone on the coastal profiles. The area near the present estuary has seen rapid deposition with the progradation rate being governed by the relative intensity of fluvial and marine processes while the coasts in Laizhou Bay are stable and the particular characteristics of the tidal current field prevent the sediments supplied by the Yellow River from reaching this area.     

山东半岛全新世近岸泥质区沉积过程与沉积记录*

中国东部陆架边缘海发育多个全新世泥质区,是研究古海洋和古气候的理想区域。本研究从现代沉积过程和全新世沉积记录的视角,对山东半岛近岸泥质区的前人研究结果进行总结梳理,为后续相关研究提供参考。山东半岛近岸泥质区位于山东半岛沿岸,主要是来自黄河的沉积物在沿岸流、上升流、潮汐等相互作用下沉积而成,呈现独特的“Ω”形沉积模式。山东半岛近岸泥质区形成于全新世,物质来源主要是黄河,近岸侵蚀和当地小河流也贡献一定的物质来源。山东半岛近岸泥质区的形成和演化与古海洋条件、海平面升降、内陆古气候演变等多种因素有关,蕴藏着丰富的环境演化信息。山东半岛近岸泥质区沉积能够快速记录东亚季风的演变,其较高的沉积速率为研究黄河流域的古气候和古生态演化提供高分辨率的材料,可为预测未来全球变化背景下黄河流域的发展趋势提供参考。虽然前人对现代沉积过程进行了大量工作,但仍需加强现代观测和数值模拟等方面的工作,为更好地重建研究区的沉积动力过程提供数据和理论支撑。此外,该区在长时间尺度上的沉积物和有机质的沉积过程对古海洋和古气候的响应机制也亟待开展研究。     

伶仃洋茅洲河口动力地貌演变过程

利用长系列的水文泥沙、水下地形和遥感影像等数据,通过数字地形高程模型和水动力数学模型等方法,探讨了伶仃洋茅洲河口的动力地貌演变过程及主要原因。结果表明:伶仃洋中滩海区近年冲刷态势明显,拦江沙与矾石浅滩呈现逐渐分离并有发育形成"新中槽"的演变趋势;茅洲河口门深槽的形成发育以落潮流动力作用为主,交椅湾深槽具有涨潮沟的性质,交椅沙形成发育对于稳定周边海区滩槽格局具有重要作用;大规模围涂造地和海床采砂等人类开发活动显著改变了伶仃洋的地形边界条件,进而影响河口水沙输移和滩槽格局,亟需加强监控。     

Characteristics of the Submarine Topography and its Profile Type of the Coast of China

Based on the latest submarine topography data of the China 908 Project （China offshore marine environmental comprehensive investigation and assessment）,we analyzed the general China offshore submarine topographical characteristics and the factors influencing its development.The submarine topography off the coast of China follows the NW-SE trend of the land topography.The gradient of the submarine topography ranges from 0.2％ to 1.6％ with an average gradient of about 0.8％.The depth contours run mostly parallel to the coast,and extend out to sea in estuary areas.The submarine topography is dominated by the geological structure,which shows the typical characteristics of two uplifts and two subsidence events from north to south.The geological structure combined with the different sedimentary environments and complex hydrodynamic conditions produced topography that can be characterized by three types：sedimentary basins,compressionuplift,and transition form.In the sedimentary basin and compression-uplift regions,the topographical undulation is small,sediments are fine-grained,and the currents flow in a single direction,leading to bays with sedimentary plains and underwater accumulation slopes,which are of the same tectonic origin.Transition-type topography is characterized by strong undulations and mixed-size sediment particles,terraces and scarps inshore and shelf plains and erosion-deposition landforms offshore.This is a result of incomplete fault block development and repeated transgressions.In the deposition reformation regions （transition form type）,the topography has strong undulations,the sediments are coarse,tidal sand ridges are well-developed at terrigenoussupplied estuaries and convergence zones,and the Holocene sediments are thick,transformed by tides,river runoff,and currents.     

Biogeochemical Zones Within a Macrotidal,Dry-Tropical Fluvial-Marine Transition Area: A Dry-Season Perspective

The Fitzroy River delivers large amounts of nutrients and fine sediments to Keppel Bay (contiguous with the Great Barrier Reef Lagoon) during intermittent flow events. This study explores sources, forms and transformations of nutrients in Keppel Bay, and develops a functional process zonation that integrates seabed geochemistry and water column nutrient characteristics which are controlled by suspended sediment. The water column and seabed properties were investigated over two dry seasons, with supplementary core incubations taken to measure carbon decomposition rates and nutrient fluxes. Keppel Bay can be divided into three zones, the: zone of maximum resuspension (ZMR); coastal transitional zone (CTZ); and blue water zone (BWZ). Mineralisation of predominantly terrestrial organic matter occurs in the ZMR where nutrient uptake by phytoplankton is light limited. The CTZ and BWZ had higher light penetration and phytoplankton growth was likely limited by N and P, respectively. The identified zones conform to the bathymetry and hydrodynamic characteristics of the bay, allowing for the development of an integrated conceptual model accounting for the benthic and pelagic biogeochemical processes. Recognition of these different zones shows that considerable variation in benthic and water column properties is possible within a small system with the bathymetric and hydrodynamic characteristics of the fluidized bed reactor.     

Coastal erosion in the south-eastern Mediterranean: case of beaches in North Tunisia

This research is conducted as part of a Spanish International Cooperation Agency project with the aim to investigate the sustainable protection of Tunisian coastal zones, as in the case of Beni Khiar and Dar Chaabane coasts (Hammamet Gulf) separated by Oued El Kebir river. The sedimentary dynamic of these beaches is studied in order to identify the main causes responsible for their erosion by the use of different approaches of in situ measurements and numerical methods. Geophysical surveys and sedimentary analyses have demonstrated that sediments are finer and less carbonated from Beni Khiar to Dar Chaabane. Then, the shoreline mapping of several missions of aerial photos has illustrated a mean shoreline retreat between 3 and 4 m/year. In terms of sand volume, a sediment loss more than 30,000 m³/year at Dar Chaabane has been observed since the hill lake structures were built within Oued El Kebir river in 1996. Finally, modelled hydrodynamic and sedimentary patterns have illustrated the refraction of waves in deep water close to shoals and a high-energy concentration along Dar Chaabane coast. The sediment transport direction is mainly of NE-SW induced by ESE-SE wave-driven alongshore current. Results provided by these approaches have shown the importance of Oued El Kebir sediment yield in supplying the neighbouring beaches. Changes in sedimentary dynamics are affected by the modification of hydrodynamic patters caused by the presence of hydrological dams and the implementations of hotels close to the shoreline. This finding underlines the key role of Oued El Kebir fluvial activity in controlling the equilibrium of beaches and their sensitivity to coastal managements induced by man activities, as in the case of the most Mediterranean beaches.     

Sedimentary evolution of Lake Van (Eastern Turkey) reconstructed from high-resolution seismic investigations

This paper presents results of a multi-channel seismic reflection survey at Lake Van and provides constraints on the sedimentary evolution of the lake. The geophysical data of the lake confirm the existence of three physiographic provinces: a shelf, a slope, and a deep, relatively flat basin. The most prominent features identified on the shelf and slope are clinoforms, submerged channels, as well as closely spaced lake floor depressions, reflecting a highly variable lake-level history. The morphological depressions are interpreted as resulting from subaquatic erosion by channelized, sediment-laden currents into horizontally bedded fan sediments. Submerged channels on the eastern shelf are interpreted as meandering-slope channels, probably as a consequence of a lake-level fall that exposed the shelf area. Clinoforms on the Eastern fan may represent relict deltas formed during stationary or slightly rising lake-level intervals. Merging subsurface imaging interpretation with morphological studies of exposed sediments reveals lake-level fluctuations of several hundreds of meters during the past ca. ~550 ka. The lake has three prominent basins (Tatvan, Deveboynu, and the Northern basin) separated by basement ridges (e.g., the Northern ridge). The seismic units in the Tatvan and Northern basins are dominated by alternations of well-stratified and chaotic reflections, while the Deveboynu basin subsurface consists mainly of chaotic units. The chaotic seismic facies are interpreted as mass-flow deposits, probably triggered by earthquakes and/or rapid lake-level fluctuations. The moderate-to-high-amplitude, well-stratified facies seen in the deeper parts of the basins are interpreted as lacustrine deposits intercalated with tephra layers. The occurrence of a clinoform in the deepest part of the lake suggests a major flooding stage of Lake Van more than ~400 ka ago. Seismic profiles from the deepest part of the lake basin show remarkably uniform and continuous stratigraphic units without any major erosional feature following the flooding event, indicating that the lake was never completely dry afterward and therefore significantly older than previously suggested.     

Évolution temporelle et architecture interne d'un banc sableux estuarien : la Longe de Boyard (littoral atlantique,France)

The evolution and the internal architecture of an estuary type sand ridge has been studied with a set of bathymetric data recorded during the last two centuries and with a dense grid of recent very high resolution seismic profiles. Bathymetric data of the so-called, Longe de Boyard sand ridge, displays sand losts due to wave and tide erosion. Internal geometry, through seismic profile analysis, indicates two main phases of deposition recording both, a recent high energy environment and an older low energy one, respectively. Such an evolution is believed to record changes in sedimentation processes mainly related to the end of the Holocene transgression (8 000–5 000 yr BP). To cite this article: É. Chaumillon et al., C. R. Geoscience 334 (2002) 119–126.     

Coastal processes and environmental hazards: the Buenos Aires (Argentina) and Venetian (Italy) littorals

The Buenos Aires (Argentina) and Venice (Italy) coastlands have experienced significant saltwater contamination of the phreatic aquifer, coastal erosion, hydrodynamic changes and relative sea level rise processes due to natural and man-induced factors. These factors expose coastal areas to morpho-hydro-geological hazards, such as soil desertification, frequency and degree of flooding, littoral erosion, and the silting of river mouths and channels. Man-made interventions and actions, such as beach mining, construction of coastal structures and exploitation of aquifers without an adequate knowledge of the hydrology setting and an adequate management program, worsen these natural hazards. Uncontrolled human activity induces environmental damage to the overall coastal plains. The coastal plains play an important role in the social/economic development of the two regions based on land use, such as agriculture, horticulture, breeding, and tourism, as well as industry. Results of investigations on saltwater contamination, sea level rise and morphological changes recently performed in these two coastal areas are presented here.     

海底生物扰动作用及其对沉积过程和记录的影响

海底生物扰动作用主要由底栖生物的摄食、掘穴和栖所建造等活动造成,它可以充分改变沉积物的物理、化学特性,扭曲或模糊地层学信号,影响早期成岩过程和沉积记录以及沉积物的稳定性。海底生物扰动作用的研究,对于全面、精确地掌握海洋中各种物质的生物地球化学循环过程,正确回溯古气候、古海洋和古生态记录,合理调节和控制海底生态系统的多样性具有十分重要的意义。简要回顾了海洋生物扰动作用的研究进展,并着重对海洋沉积物中生物扰动作用的观测和定量研究方法、主要影响因素及其对沉积过程和记录的影响进行了评述。     

Postglacial stratigraphic evolution of a current-influenced sandy shelf: offshore Kujukuri strandplain,central Japan

Sandy shelf sediments are important elements of clastic sedimentary systems because of their wide distribution in the geological record and their significance as hydrocarbon reservoirs. Although many studies have investigated shelf sediments influenced by waves or tidal currents, little is known about shelf sediments influenced by oceanic currents, particularly their lithofacies characteristics and stratigraphic evolution. This study investigated the stratigraphic evolution of shelf sediments off the Kujukuri strandplain facing the Pacific Ocean, which is influenced by the strong Kuroshio Current. Sediment cores were obtained from six locations on the Kujukuri shelf (34 to 124 m water depth) using a vibrocorer. The dominant lithofacies is mud-free sand with low-angle cross-lamination associated with alternating beds of finer and coarser sand with cross-lamination. These display depositional processes influenced by storm waves and the Kuroshio Current, respectively. This finding is consistent with the previously presented modern and historical observations of the Kuroshio Current and estimates of the storm-wave base. Radiocarbon dates show that the sediment succession formed during the last transgressive and highstand stages after 13·1 ka. The depositional processes during the stages represent a transition from storm waves with abundant sediment supply to both storm waves and the Kuroshio Current with sediment starvation mainly due to its trapping in the strandplain. Comparison to other Holocene–Modern shelf systems suggests that the sandy shelf successions are strongly influenced by oceanic currents under conditions of limited riverine input and open coastal geometry. The resultant sand-dominated succession is characterized by reversal of the proximal to distal grain-size trend compared to the fining for most other recognized wave/storm-dominated shelf successions. This is because of seaward increase in the influence of the Kuroshio Current. Thus, shelf deposits are naturally complex, and these may be further complicated by the additional influence of oceanic currents above the usual wave-dominated and tide-dominated end members.     

辽东湾西岸典型岬湾海滩表层沉积物粒度分布特征及水动力条件浅析

海滩形态、沉积物组分和粒度参数能反映海滩沉积环境。自2010年7月到2011年12月在辽东湾西岸葫芦岛市龙湾滨海沙滩和兴城第一海水浴场沙滩进行冬夏重复海滩剖面测量和表层沉积物粒度分析,结果表明:①两海滩以85黄海高程-0.6 m和-4.7 m为界划分为海滩、水下岸坡和陆架平原三个地貌单元。②龙湾沙滩海滩形态较稳定,兴城一浴海滩和水下岸坡淤积,均与海滩养护相关。③根据沉积物组分和粒径参数的差异,两海滩可横向划分为I、II、III、IV四个沉积区。各沉积区内中值粒径并没有出现横向递减的趋势,分选系数、偏态和峰态变化复杂。各沉积区间水力条件截然不同。④与兴城一浴相比,龙湾沙滩I沉积区沉积物颗粒较细、分选较好,水下岸坡存在综合动力条件弱的沉积区段,陆架平原缺少潮流作用强烈的区段。     

岛屿海岸工程作用下的水沙动力过程研究

岛屿海岸所处的水动力泥沙环境以及工程实施后引起的相关变化都具有自身的独特性和复杂性。根据历史资料,在对嵊泗中心渔港海区已建工程影响下的水沙动力过程变化深入分析的基础上,利用波浪和潮流共同作用下的二维泥沙数学模型,对拟建工程引起的潮流场、含沙量场以及海床冲淤变化进行了分析和预测。研究表明,已建与拟建防波堤工程会引起港区水动力减弱,海床演变以淤积作用为主,年淤积强度0.1~0.3 m;已围与拟围海造地工程则会束窄潮流通道,导致水动力增强,海床以轻微冲刷为主。拟建工程与已建工程作用下的水沙动力过程具有良好的类比性。