Experimental study of wave–wave nonlinear interactions using the wavelet-based bicoherence

The wavelet-based bicoherence, which is a new and powerful tool in the analysis of nonlinear phase coupling, is used to study the nonlinear wave–wave interactions of breaking and non-breaking gravity waves propagating over a sill. Two cases of mechanically generated random waves based on Jonswap spectra are used for this purpose. Values of relative depth, k_ph (k_p is the wave number of the spectral peak and h is the water depth) for this study range between 0.38 and 1.22. The variations of wavelet-based total bicoherence for the test cases indicate that the degree of quadratic phase coupling increases in the shoaling region consistent with a wave profile that is pitched shoreward, relative to a vertical axis as seen in the experiments, but decreases in the de-shoaling region. For the non-breaking case, the degree of quadratic phase coupling continues to increase until waves reach the top of the sill. Breaking waves, however, achieve their highest level of quadratic phase coupling immediately before incipient breaking and the degree of phase coupling decreases sharply following breaking. In addition the wavelet-based bicoherence spectra provide evidence of the harmonics' growth which is reflected in the energy spectra. The bicoherence spectra also show that quadratic phase coupling between modes within the peak frequency as well as between modes of the peak frequency and its higher harmonics are dominant in the shoaling region, even though there are relatively high levels of quadratic phase coupling occurring between other frequencies. Furthermore, using the temporal resolution property of the wavelet-based bicoherence, we find that the quadratic wave interactions occur more readily during segments of time with large change of wave amplitude, rather than those segments having large wave amplitudes, but small gradients in amplitude.     

Laboratory study on wave dissipation by vegetation in combined current–wave flow

Coastal wetlands such as salt marshes and mangroves provide valuable ecosystem services including coastal protection. Many studies have assessed the influence of plant traits and wave conditions on vegetation-induced wave dissipation, whereas the effect of tidal currents is often ignored. To our knowledge, only two studies investigated wave dissipation by vegetation with the presence of following currents (current velocity is in the same direction as wave propagation) (Li and Yan, 2007; Paul et al., 2012). However, based on independent experiments, they have drawn contradictive conclusions whether steady currents increase or decrease wave attenuation. We show in this paper that this inconsistency may be caused by a difference in ratio of imposed current velocity to amplitude of the horizontal wave orbital velocity. We found that following currents can either increase or decrease wave dissipation depending on the velocity ratio, which explains the seeming inconsistency in the two previous studies. Wave dissipation in plant canopies is closely related to vegetation drag coefficients. We apply a new approach to obtain the drag coefficients. This new method eliminates the potential errors that are often introduced by the commonly used method. More importantly, it is capable of obtaining the vegetation drag coefficient in combined current–wave flows, which is not possible for the commonly used calibration method. Based on laboratory data, we propose an empirical relation between drag coefficient and Reynolds number, which can be useful for numerical modeling. The characteristics of drag coefficient variation and in-canopy velocity dynamics are incorporated into an analytical model to help understand the effect of following currents on vegetation-induced wave dissipation.     

A coupled modeling scheme for longshore sediment transport of wave-dominated coasts—A case study from the southern Baltic Sea

A modeling scheme based on dynamic coupling of a high-resolution 1D cross-shore model to a 2DH area model is developed to calculate the total longshore sediment transport (LST) rate in wave-dominated coasts. The purpose of this coupling strategy aims at resolving the LST with a high-resolution (both temporally and spatially) inside the surf-zone and with a coarser spatial resolution seaward of the surf-zone. The 2DH area model operates on a fixed pre-designed regional grid (parent grid) and the 1D cross-shore model is dynamically coupled to the boundary of the parent grid with a time-varying domain, starting from the first wave breaking point and ending at the maximum wave set-up point. The time-varying domain is generated in the 1D model by resolving the landward wave propagation from the offshore conditions provided by the 2DH area model at every time step. With a high-resolution cell size the 1D model resolves the wave propagation processes and resulting LST along the profile. The coupled model is applied to study the LST in the Pomeranian Bight at the southern Baltic Sea. Simulation results are compared with three other different hierarchical modeling methods (from empirical formulas such as CERC and Kamphuis to a 2DH area simulation). The comparative study indicates that the dynamically coupled model can be a reliable tool in practical applications, especially for the areas where hydrodynamics is controlled by complex bathymetry (e.g., multiple longshore bars) or morphologically induced circulation patterns.     

The effect of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation in Charleston Harbor during Hurricane Hugo 1989

The effects of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal regions are examined by using a three-dimensional (3-D) wave–current coupled modeling system. The 3-D storm surge and inundation modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton ocean model (POM), whereas the wave modeling component is based on the third-generation wave model, simulating waves nearshore (SWAN). The results indicate that the effects of wave-induced surface, bottom, and radiation stresses can separately or in combination produce significant changes in storm surge and inundation. The effects of waves vary spatially. In some areas, the contribution of waves to peak storm surge during Hurricane Hugo reached as high as 0.76 m which led to substantial changes in the inundation and drying areas simulated by the storm surge model.     

Entropy of sea wave height field and its annual variation in Northwest Pacific Ocean

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Phytoplankton production characteristics in the Eastern Atlantic and Atlantic sector of the Southern Ocean in October–November 2004

Production parameters of surface phytoplankton were measured along three transects: La Manche-Cape Town (I); Cape Town-54°S (II); 0°-49°W (along 54°S) (III). The Canary upwelling waters were most productive along transect I, where the surface chlorophyll a (Chl ₀) and the surface primary production (PP ₀) were as high as 4.3 mg/m³ and 173 mg C/m³ per day, respectively. Mosaic patterns in the distribution of these parameters were recorded in the northeastern regions of the South Subtropical Anticyclonic Gyre (Chl ₀ = 0.03–0.35 mg/m³; PP ₀ = 1.6–12.6 mg C/m³ per day). Along transect II, the average twofold southward increase in Chl ₀ (from 0.2 to 0.4 mg/m³) and the concurrent decline of the phytoplankton assimilation activity ( AN ₀) resulted in deviations from typical latitudinal changes inPP ₀. At most sites, PP ₀ values varied between 6 and 15 mg C/m³ per day. Negligible changes in Chl ₀ (0.36–0.85 mg/m³), PP ₀ (8–19 mg C/m³ per day), and AN ₀ (0.7–1.6 mg C/mg chl a per hour) were registered for the oceanic waters along transect III. Along all the transects, PP ₀ depended on Chl ₀ to a greater extent than AN ₀. The values of the latter parameter were largely determined by the water temperature and showed a slight correlation with the insolation. Along transect II, the integrated primary production (PP _int) and the layer-integrated chlorophyll a in the upper 200 m (Chl _0–200) generally varied from 180 to 360 mg C/m² per day and from 30 to 70 mg/m², respectively. In the Polar Front region, an increase in Chl _0–200, PP _int, Chl ₀, and PP ₀ up to respective values of 190 mg/m², 520 mg C/m² per day, 1.2 mg/m³, and 32 mg C/m³ per day was observed. A comparison of the water column (0–100 m) stability with the vertical distribution of the primary production and chlorophyll content along transect II implies that the thick (>100 m) upper mixed layer (UML) formed in response to the strong water cooling and wind forcing was largely responsible for the limited primary production in the Subantarctic and Antarctic regions. The large UML thickness resulted in an intense removal of plant cells from the photosynthetic layer and light starvation of a significant (up to 60%) part of the phytoplankton community.     

Interannual variability of Kelvin wave propagation in the wave guides of the equatorial Indian Ocean,the coastal Bay of Bengal and the southeastern Arabian Sea during 1993–2006

The observed variability of the Kelvin waves and their propagation in the equatorial wave guide of the Indian Ocean and in the coastal wave guides of the Bay of Bengal (BoB) and the southeastern Arabian Sea (AS) on seasonal to interannual time scales during years 1993–2006 is examined utilizing all the available satellite and in-situ measurements. The Kelvin wave regime inferred from the satellite-derived sea surface height anomalies (SSHA) shows a distinct annual cycle composed of two pairs of alternate upwelling (first one occurring during January–March and the second one occurring during August–September) and downwelling (first one occurring during April–June and the second one occurring during October–December) Kelvin waves that propagate eastward along the equator and hit the Sumatra coast and bifurcate. The northern branches propagate counterclockwise over varied distances along the coastal wave guide of the BoB. The potential mechanisms that contribute to the mid-way termination of the first upwelling and the first downwelling Kelvin waves in the wave guide of the BoB are hypothesized. The second downwelling Kelvin wave alone reaches the southeastern AS, and it shows large interannual variability caused primarily by similar variability in the equatorial westerly winds during boreal fall. The westward propagating downwelling Rossby waves triggered by the second downwelling Kelvin wave off the eastern rim of the BoB also shows large interannual variability in the near surface thermal structure derived from SODA analysis. The strength of the equatorial westerlies driven by the east–west gradient of the heat sources in the troposphere appears to be a critical factor in determining the observed interannual variability of the second downwelling Kelvin wave in the wave guides of the equatorial Indian Ocean, the coastal BoB, and the southeastern AS.     

Nine nations,one ocean: A benchmark appraisal of the South Western Indian Ocean Fisheries Project (2008–2012)

Coastal and island states of the Western Indian Ocean lack scientific and management capacity to draw sustainable benefits from their Exclusive Economic Zones. Declining ecosystem services and unregulated fishing has prompted nine riparian countries to develop a regional framework for capacity building and scientific development towards collective management of shared resources. Supported by the Global Environment Facility (GEF), the Agulhas and Somali Currents large marine ecosystems programme consists of three inter-related modules, supported by different agencies: land-based impacts on the marine environment (UNEP); productivity, ecosystem health and nearshore fisheries (UNDP) and transboundary shared and migrating fisheries resources (World Bank). The latter is the South Western Indian Ocean Fisheries Project (SWIOFP), a 5-year joint data gathering and fisheries assessment initiative. SWIOFP is a prelude to long-term cooperative fisheries management in partnership with the newly established FAO–South Western Indian Ocean Fisheries Commission (SWIOFC). We describe the development of SWIOFP as a model of participatory regional scientific cooperation and collective ocean management.     

Wave–current interaction in a river and wave dominant estuary: A seasonal contrast

The dynamic feature of the Modaomen Estuary (ME) in the Pearl River Delta in southern China has been the subject of extensive research. In previous studies, wave–current interaction (WCI) was often neglected due to its complexity. This study uses a coupled hydrodynamic module TELEMAC-2D and wave propagation module TOMAWAC in the TELEMAC-Mascaret modeling system to quantify the effects of WCI on the hydrodynamics in the ME. The coupled wave and current modeling system was well validated against the field measurements at selected locations. The model results show that WCI varies with the seasonal change in runoff in the ME. The effect of waves on the currents is insignificant during the wet season with a current change of no more than 0.07 m/s; but, in contrast, the currents have a noticeable effect on waves. However, during the dry season, the interactions of waves and currents on each other are found to be equally significant. When wave model and current model are coupled, the velocity could increase up to a maximum of 0.30 m/s and decrease up to a maximum of 0.17 m/s. WCI is greatly affected by the propagation directions of wave and current in both seasons. Generally, wave height decreases and current increases for a following wave and current; wave height increases and current decreases for an opposing wave and current. The effects of waves on currents change with the tide. Changes are larger during neap tide than during spring tide, and stronger during ebb tide than during flood tide.     

A Eulerian–Lagrangian method for the simulation of wave propagation

A Eulerian–Lagrangian method (ELM) is employed for the simulation of wave propagation in the present research. The wave action conservation equation, instead of the wave energy balance equation, is used. The wave action is conservative and the action flux remains constant along the wave rays. The ELM correctly accounts for this physical characteristic of wave propagation and integrates the wave action spectrum along the wave rays. Thus, the total derivative for wave action spectrum may be introduced into the numerical scheme and the complicated partial differential wave action balance equation is simplified into an ordinary differential equation. A number of test cases on wave propagation are carried out and show that the present method is stable, accurate and efficient. The results are compared with analytical solutions and/or other computed results. It is shown that the ELM is superior to the first-order upwind method in accuracy, stability and efficiency and may better reflect the complicated dynamics due to the complicated bathymetry features in shallow water areas.     

A theoretical study of the kinetics of the boric acid–borate equilibrium in seawater

Dissolved boron in seawater occurs mainly in the form of boric acid (B(OH)₃) and borate (B(OH)₄⁻). While the equilibrium properties of the dissociation of boric acid have been studied in detail, very little work has focused on the kinetics of the boric acid–borate equilibrium in seawater. Here, we present a theoretical study of the relaxation of the seawater borate–carbonate system towards equilibrium using the experimental data of Mallo et al. [Nouv. J. Chim. 8 (1984) 373] and Waton et al. [J. Phys. Chem. 88 (1984) 3301]. The reaction rate constants are two to four orders of magnitude smaller than typical rate constants of diffusion-controlled reactions of other acid–base equilibria. This is presumably due to the substantial structural change that is involved in the conversion from planar B(OH)₃ to tetrahedral B(OH)₄. The time required to establish the boric acid–borate equilibrium in seawater is calculated to be ∼95μs at temperature T=25°C and salinity S=35. Considering stable boron isotopes ¹¹B and ¹⁰B, the isotopic equilibration time is ∼125 μs. As a result, kinetic isotope effects during coprecipitation of boron in calcium carbonate are unlikely and therefore do not affect the use of stable boron isotopes as a paleo-pH recorder.     

Multidisciplinary Program of Field Studies of the Ecosystem in the Atlantic Sector of the Southern Ocean (December 2019–March 2020)

Oceanology - The research program of the dynamics and ecosystem of the Drake Passage and Scotia Sea is scientifically substantiated. Measurements will be carried out by the interdepartmental...     

Numerical simulations of wave–current flow in an ocean basin

Wave–current flow is a phenomenon that is present in many practical engineering situations. Over the past several decades, this type of flow has been increasingly investigated under controlled laboratory conditions. This paper presents a numerical study of wave–current flow in the ocean basin of the LabOceano (COPPE/UFRJ). A homogeneous multiphase model based on the RANS equations and the k–ɛ turbulence model implemented in ANSYS-CFX code were used. A cross section of the ocean basin was represented. A regular wave with a height of 0.08 m and a period of 1.80 s (i.e., a wave steepness of H/L = 0.016), propagating on favourable currents, was simulated. The behaviour of the free surface elevation over time and the streamlines along the basin for wave and wave–current flows were presented. The numerical results were compared to the non-viscous theory given by the Rayleigh equation applied to the problem of wave–current interaction. Good agreement was found between the wave length estimated by the numerical results and the analytical solutions, with a deviation of less than 2%.     

On the Mechanism of Decadal Oscillations in the Ocean–Atmosphere System

The aim of the work is to check the hypothesis that quasiperiodic oscillations of meridional heat transport intensified by a positive feedback existing in the ocean–atmosphere system in subtropical regions is one of the principal factors governing the decadal variability of various hydrophysical fields in the North Atlantic. We use a simple three-box model of the North Atlantic with one lower and two upper boxes and meridional circulation for typical parameters of the ocean–atmosphere system. It is assumed that the decadal anomalies of sea-level pressure are proportional to the anomalies of sea-surface temperature. The deduced system of ordinary differential equations for the temperature of the upper two boxes with quadratic nonlinearity and the behavior of the solution in the vicinity of the stationary point are analyzed by using standard procedures for the investigation of linearized equations for small perturbations. It is shown that, for typical parameters of the ocean–atmosphere system, oscillating solutions for the sea-surface temperature with periods of 10–20yr can be realized even without taking salinity into account.     

Valuing direct use values of wetlands: A case study of Tam Giang–Cau Hai lagoon wetland in Vietnam

Tam Giang–Cau Hai lagoon wetland directly or indirectly provides the likelihoods for about 300,000 persons living around as well as on the lagoon. Due to expansion of aquacultures, intensive fishing, and lack of an appropriate management scheme, the biological resources in the lagoon are degraded. This study provides information on the direct use values of the lagoon wetland, using market price approach. This information on economic values can be used for designing new policies and making trade-offs among alternative management options for the lagoon wetland.     

Phytoplankton pigments and functional types in the Atlantic Ocean: A decadal assessment, 1995–2005

The phytoplankton pigment composition (chlorophylls and carotenoids) from 17 Atlantic Meridional Transect (AMT) cruises over the period 1995–2005 was analysed to determine the distributions of pigments and plankton in the Atlantic Ocean between 50°N and 50°S. Data were quality assured by statistical methods, including regression of total chlorophyll a (TChla) versus accessory pigments (AP) and comparison of the AMT-TChla with contemporary SeaWiFS-TChla (cruises AMT-05 to -17). Comparisons of province-mean TChla (±SD) for in situ and satellite data showed good agreement for each cruise. ‘Taxa-specific’ pigments were used to define phytoplankton functional types (PFTs) for each of the biogeochemical provinces along the AMT. Pigment ratios (e.g. TChla/AP) were analysed for each cruise and for each province as indices (characteristic properties) of particular PFTs. Mostly robust positive correlations were observed between TChla and pigment ratios for different PFTs, for some provinces and most cruises. These were consistent with previous observations. Generally there were no significant trends of mean TChla or pigment ratios within provinces over the period 1995–2005, although the previously reported perturbation due to the 1997–1998 ENSO was evident.     

Forecasting space–time variability of wave heights in the Bay of Bengal: a genetic algorithm approach

The present work employs a genetic algorithm to carry out wave height forecasting in the Bay of Bengal. The use of empirical orthogonal function analysis allows the spatial extending of the forecast to the entire basin. The chaotic nature of the process limits the horizon of usable forecasts to 48 h in advance. Statistical evaluation of the quality of forecast leads to encouraging results. A major advantage of this method is that, once the forecast equations are derived, they can be used directly without the necessity of having a numerical wave model as an intermediate step.