Physical modelling of tsunami using a new pneumatic wave generator

The physical simulation of tsunami in the laboratory has taken a major leap forward with the construction and testing of a new wave generator, capable of recreating scaled tsunami waves. Numerical tools fail to reproduce tsunami nearshore and onshore processes well, and physical experiments in large scale hydraulic facilities worldwide have been limited to the generation of solitary waves as an (controversial) approximation for evolved forms of tsunami. The new concept in wave generation presented herein is born of collaboration between UCL's Earthquake and People Interaction Centre (EPICentre) and HR Wallingford. It allows for the first time the stable simulation of extremely long waves led either by a crest or a trough (depressed wave). This paper presents the working concepts behind the new wave generator and the first stages of testing for verifying its capacities and limitations. It is shown that the new wave generator can not only reproduce solitary waves and N-waves with large wavelengths, but also the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami as recorded off the coast of Thailand (“Mercator” trace).     

Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms

Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit ~ h^−5/2 exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes.     

Numerical modeling of wave runup and forces on an idealized beachfront house

In this paper, a numerical wave model based on the incompressible Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) and k–ε equations is used to estimate the impact of a solitary wave on an idealized beachfront house located at different elevations on a plane beach. The locations of the free surface are reconstructed by volume of fluid (VOF) method. The model is satisfactorily tested against the experimental data of wave runup, and the analytical solution of wave forces on vertical walls. The time histories of wave profiles, forces, and overturning moments on the idealized house are demonstrated and analyzed. The variations of wave forces and overturning moments with the elevation of the idealized beachfront house are also investigated.     

Initial attack of large-scaled tsunami on ship motions and mooring loads

In this paper, we propose a numerical simulation procedure of moored ship motions due to initial attack of large-scaled tsunamis and investigate the effects on the motions and mooring loads. The effect of methodology on selection of tsunami wave components and of the drag forces are then considered by using the numerical simulation method, applying to several case studies for LNG-carrier. Large ship motions and excessive mooring loads beyond the safe working loads are induced by the resonant tsunami wave components in the sway and surge motions and drag forces.     

A study of Coriolis effects on long waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin

The effects of Coriolis force on long waves have been discussed based on gravity waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin. In case of ocean, results show that the Coriolis effect will be significant and negligible, when the wave period is comparable to 2π/f and much shorter, respectively. Results also show in a channel, the wave amplitude and water particle velocity decrease exponentially in the positive y direction in the northern hemisphere (where f is positive). Moreover, in a basin, the Cotidal lines have been found as curves and rotate counterclockwise around the origin.     

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.     

The effects of variable speeds of a submarine block slide on near-field tsunami amplitudes

In this study, the motion of a submarine block slide, with variable velocities, and its effects on the near-field tsunami amplitudes are investigated. The numerical results show that the amplitudes generated by the slide are almost the same as those created by its average velocity when , where is average velocity of the slide and is the long period tsunami velocity in ocean of constant depth h. In contrast, the kinematic model of the slide must take into account time variations in the moving velocity, if , especially when .     

植被斜坡岸滩海啸波消减数值模拟研究

An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for maintaining the mass balance of these equations. The resistance force caused by vegetation was taken into account as a source term in the momentum equation. The Harten–Lax–van Leer(HLL) approximate Riemann solver was applied to evaluate the interface fluxes for tracing the wet/dry transition boundary. This proposed model was used to simulate solitary wave run-up and long-periodic wave propagation on a sloping beach. The calibration process suitably compared the calculated results with the measured data. The tsunami waves were also simulated to discuss the water depth, tsunami force, as well as the current speed in absence of and in presence of forest domain. The results indicated that forest growth at the beach reduced wave energy loss caused by tsunamis. A series of sensitivity analyses were conducted with respect to variable parameters(such as vegetation densities, wave heights, wave periods, bed resistance, and beach slopes) to identify important influences on mitigating tsunami damage on coastal forest beach.     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

Laboratory investigation on wave transmission through two rows of perforated hollow piles

Experimental investigations on perforated hollow piles in two rows were conducted in a two dimensional wave flume. The influence of water depth, incident wave steepness, clear spacing between the piles and the spacing of pile rows on transmission coefficient have been studied. The effect of staggering of piles in rows is investigated. The results are also compared with the results of experiments on piles without perforations. The investigations have revealed that perforated piles attenuate more wave energy than non-perforated piles. The transmission coefficient K_t decreases as the wave steepness increases for both non-perforated and perforated piles. For non-perforated piles as relative clear spacing between the piles (b/D) decreases, for waves of higher steepness, K_t decreases while for perforated piles as b/D decreases, K_t is decreasing for all the steepness considered. As the relative clear spacing between the pile rows (B/D) increases K_t initially decreases till B/D is around one and later it starts increasing for both non-perforated and perforated piles. Staggering of piles has little effect on K_t. It is also found that water depth has insignificant influence on transmission coefficient at higher steepness for both perforated and non-perforated piles. Wave period alone does not directly influence transmission coefficient K_t.     

近岸波浪引起的水流及长波研究进展

从现场观测、理论分析和数值计算、试验室研究三个方面回顾了近岸波浪引起水流以及长波的研究进展，并对今后着重研究的几个方向提出看法。     

基于震级上限估计的渤海海啸危险性与共振特征研究

根据渤海区域地质断层特征和历史地震活动规律,分析得出渤海内潜在最大震级上限为8.1级,并对该海啸源可能的两组震源机制分别进行了数值模拟。模拟结果显示：渤海局部区域海啸波幅最大可达 1.5 m,最大流速可达2.8~3.0 m/s,具备造成灾害损失的风险。在该海啸源情景下,渤海海盆内易激发长期的水位自由振荡,部分区域水位振荡可持续 20 h以上,振荡波幅的大小与海啸首波波幅相当或更大。基于快速傅里叶变换方法对海啸波进行频谱分析,部分长周期频谱成分满足区域固有共振特征。因此,渤海内一旦发生海啸,不仅要关注海啸首波可能造成的灾害性影响,还要密切关注海啸首波到达后,可能产生的长时间、长周期的海啸波共振以及往复式海啸流造成的影响。     

基于光滑质点流体动力学方法数值波浪水槽研究

基于光滑质点流体动力学(smoothed particle hydrodynamics,简称SPH)方法建立二维数值波浪水槽,利用推波板造波生成孤立波和不规则波,模拟结果跟实验值及解析解做了对比分析,结果令人满意.SPH数值水槽中生成的波浪具有明显的非线性,波浪能量沿程有所衰减,与物理水槽结果吻合良好.     

基于近底原位观测的小尺度海底沙波地形小波分解

浅海海床发育着不同尺度的活动性砂体,在大型活动性砂体上常叠加发育着大量小尺度沙波(纹),分析这些小尺度沙波(纹)有助于揭示活动性砂体的成因机制。但它们的尺度较小,常规分析方法往往将其作为高频噪声滤除,难以对该尺度海底沙波(纹)进行分离量化研究。为了解决这个问题,本文设计并实现了一种基于小波分析的小尺度海底沙波地形分解方法,并以台湾浅滩典型区域的高精度近底原位观测数据为例,实现了小尺度海底沙波地形的分解和定量分析,分解出背景地形、小型沙波和沙波纹(波长小于0.6 m)3种地貌类型。本文提出的小尺度海底沙波地形分解量化方法,可广泛应用于浅海高活动性地貌发育演化和海底边界层沉积动力过程研究,对评估海洋工程的稳定性也具有一定的实用价值。     

一种基于声速剖面展开的内波监测新方法

声速剖面时空分布的获取是利用声学方法监测内波的核心问题。在反演算法中,声速剖面通常是采用展开的方式用若干个参数来表示的。这就导致了有时很难从反演结果中直接获得内波的相关信息。本文的目标是找到一种通过展开系数直接获取内波特性的方法。通过推导内波水动力方程,可以从较少的声速剖面样本中提取出水动力简正模态（Hydrodynamic Normal Modes,HNMs）作为声速剖面展开的正交基。较之广泛采用的正交经验函数（Empirical Orthogonal Functions, EOFs）,HNMs直接与内波活动相关,具有更明确的物理含义。然后,基于HNMs对声速剖面的时间序列进行展开,获得展开系数。最后,从前两阶展开系数的时间导数中可以获取内波活动的信息。将方法应用于受内波影响而具有明显时空扰动的南海北陆架区温度链数据,结果表明：只用前两节模态就可以在较好的精度范围内重构声速剖面。前两阶系数的时间导数具有独特的双震荡结构可以用于探测内孤立波。从展开系数也可以获得幅度以及波长信息。理论推导和实验分析证明了本文方法在内波监测中的有效性。HNMs方法使用便利且对样本的依赖性较小,可以在内波活跃海域作为EOFs的有效补充用于声速剖面的展开。     

On the choice of data transformation for modelling time series of significant wave height

Autoregressive models have been shown to adequately model the time series of significant wave height. However, since this series exhibits a seasonal component and has a non-gaussian nature, it is necessary to transform the series before a model can be fit to the data. Two different transformations that have been used in earlier work are shown not to be appropriate for all types of applications. A third transformation is proposed here, which combines the better features of the two earlier ones and which is appropriate for simulation work. This is demonstrated with an example of a series from Figueira da Foz, a location of the Portuguese Coast.     

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力垂向分布

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论推导了辐射应力的垂向分布表达式,通过算例讨论了辐射应力在深水和有限水深条件下的垂向分布规律,并与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力进行了比较.结果表明,在波浪非线性不强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力表达式计算结果接近;而当水深较浅波浪非线性较强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力在近表面处明显大于基于微幅波理论的辐射应力.采用二阶斯托克斯波理论推导的波浪辐射应力更为合理地反映了波浪非线性效应.     

Wavelet transform based coherence analysis of freak wave and its impact

The present paper presents the results of a wavelet transform-based coherence analysis of freak wave and its impact. Wavelet transform has been used as a tool in analyzing signals in the time domain as well as in the frequency domain. The analysis was applied to laboratory-generated freak waves. The wavelet transform of the time history of the freak wave and its impact force revealed that a wide range of frequency components were contained in them. The coherence analysis was conducted on the wave and its impact force time histories. The coherence analysis revealed that some high-frequency components were highly correlated with the impact forces. The present study demonstrates that the wavelet transform can be an alternative tool in the analysis of strongly nonlinear freak wave and its impact.     

基于HUST-Ship的船舶耐波性数值试验水池参数化建模方法研究

基于自研的HUST-Ship黏性流CFD求解器,提出了一种船舶耐波性数值试验水池参数化建模方法和网格生成技术。在自研的CFD软件平台中,根据波浪参数(规则波的波长、波高和不规则波的特征周期、有效波高)自动生成船舶耐波性数值试验水池。以结构化重叠网格技术为基础,分别对船舶与水池进行网格划分并进行网格的组装、重叠,实现船舶在耐波性数值试验水池中的数值“试验”,对船舶耐波性进行数值预报。根据波浪种类分为规则波数值试验水池与不规则波数值试验水池,可对各类波浪条件实现精确可靠的数值造波,模拟船舶在各种波浪环境中运动响应、耐波性事件与非线性运动特性。采用参数化建模方法生成的耐波性数值试验水池能够提高建模和网格生成效率,通过对国际标模进行数值预报并与船模试验结果对比,验证了参数化建模方法生成的耐波性数值试验水池对船舶在波浪中运动性能的计算精度。     

海堤坡角变化对海啸波传播过程影响数值分析

针对近岸海域极端海况的防灾减灾问题,准确模拟追踪海啸波传播过程,再现液面局部射流、崩破波等波面湍动现象。建立SPH数值水槽,边界条件基于固壁粒子法,减少海堤坡角改变对计算域精度的影响,讨论粒子间距设置对模拟精度的影响。模拟7种不同海堤坡角下波浪的爬高与衰减情况,讨论了海堤坡角变化对消波系数的影响。当粒子间距设置为0.002 m时,模型能准确地捕捉海啸波的强非线性现象。随着海堤坡角增大,海啸波峰值爬升率增大,波浪越堤后因崩破波的产生,波能衰减进一步加剧。当坡角较小时,消波系数随坡角的增大提升明显,而后趋于缓慢增长。