波浪作用下级配泥沙海滩滩面变化试验研究

砂质海滩的泥沙具有一定的级配,在波浪作用下,滩面泥沙粒径将发生分选,引起海滩质量变化。在水槽中用不同波高和周期的波浪分别对不同级配的沙滩进行作用,探究滩面在波浪外动力作用下的变化规律。结果表明:全级配沙滩在相同波高波浪作用下形成的沙坝型海滩滩型中,破波点向海的区域表层泥沙分选会随波浪周期增大变差;相同周期(T=1.68s)波浪作用下,全级配沙滩在大波高(H=13.2cm)和小波高(H=6.7cm)的波浪作用下分别形成沙坝型和滩肩型海滩,滩面泥沙分选变好;原始沙滩级配与滩面泥沙变化密切相关,同种波浪动力作用下,中细、粗中沙滩沙坝表层泥沙迎波面粗于背波面,粗细沙滩粗颗粒集中在沙坝和滩顶之间。     

山东半岛东部典型砂质海岸侵蚀特征及其影响因素

利用岸滩剖面高程监测、沉积物粒度变化和动力环境分析的方法,以海阳市沙滩侵蚀演化过程为例分析了山东半岛东部典型砂质海岸的侵蚀特征和影响因素。结果表明,海阳市沙滩整体以侵蚀为主,2018—2019年沙滩总侵蚀量为2.48×10⁴m³。其中,丁字嘴沙滩以侵蚀为主,但两侧受河口的影响呈现局部滩面稳定和后滨弱淤积的现象;潮里—庄上—羊角畔沙滩滩面侵蚀从西向东逐渐增强;万米沙滩中部侵蚀严重,两端相对较弱。表层沉积物由陆向海逐渐变细,但整体上呈现粗化的趋势。波浪和极端天气是控制沙滩侵蚀变化的重要动力因素,而坡度则是导致沙滩剖面形态变化和表层沉积物差异的重要因素之一。     

不同沉积物养护海滩对台风响应的差异性研究

本文通过对厦门天泉湾人工卵石滩和会展人工沙滩在1614“莫兰蒂”超强台风影响前后的典型剖面监测,结合水文动力要素的观测和数值模拟,计算了台风影响过程的波浪场、总水位,分析了剖面形态和台风过程的剖面平均变化量。结果表明,强潮海岸人工卵石滩与人工沙滩对台风响应的特征明显不同,人工卵石滩横向上大部分卵石向岸输移堆积,滩面侵蚀,滩肩堆积形成更高的风暴滩肩,坡度明显变陡。而人工沙滩则表现为明显的沉积物离岸输运,上部滩面侵蚀,下部滩面淤积,滩面坡度明显变缓,受台风登陆后的强烈向岸风作用,滩肩顶有所夷平,滩肩高度变化很小。海滩滩肩在台风过程中是否侵蚀与台风登陆和影响过程的总水位(天文潮、风暴增水、波浪爬高)密切相关,两个人工海滩的风暴响应模式均为冲蚀;台风影响过程中,波浪能量相对强、滩面坡度相对陡的人工卵石滩比人工沙滩的剖面平均变化量小,对于台风的响应程度小,在强侵蚀高能海岸采用砾石等粗粒径沉积物进行海滩养护是减缓砂质海滩侵蚀的一种有效手段。     

日照海岸带沙滩侵蚀现状及沉积物粒度特征分析

通过对日照市海岸带2个重点沙滩的现场调查和沉积物粒度计算,综合分析了沙滩的侵蚀现状和粒度参数特征。海滨国家森林公园沙滩北部和南部处于侵蚀状态,中部为缓慢淤积状态;万平口海水浴场沙滩北部、中部总体呈侵蚀趋势,南部为淤积状态。海滨国家森林公园沙滩的平均粒径总体要小于万平口海水浴场沙滩,这与两沙滩的坡度不同有关,平均粒径从滩肩到低潮线逐渐变小。海滨国家森林公园沙滩的分选性要好于万平口海水浴场沙滩,分选系数具有由陆向海、由北向南逐渐变小的趋势。沙滩的滩肩和滩面处频率曲线主要为双峰,峰态平坦,物质来源复杂,低潮线处频率曲线主要为单峰,峰态尖锐,物质来源单一。     

台风“巴威”对威海楮岛沙滩的侵蚀研究

为进一步探究台风作用下滨海沙滩滩面变化过程,揭示台风过程对滨海沙滩的影响,本文通过分析楮岛沙滩台风影响前后9个剖面的高程测量数据以及采集的滩面沉积物样本,对比研究台风前后海滩剖面冲淤特征和滩面沉积物粒径变化,探讨台风“巴威”对楮岛沙滩影响。结果表明：在台风“巴威”影响下楮岛沙滩表现出中间淤积、两边侵蚀的特征,由于沙滩西南侧滩肩宽、坡度缓等特点,侵蚀程度明显弱于沙滩东北侧。在台风浪的冲击之下,沙滩状态朝更消散的方向发展,滩面沉积物粒径变粗、分选性变差。     

北海银滩泥化与硬化成因初探

基于现场调查资料、近岸水动力条件和粘性泥沙基本理论,力图解决广西北海银滩泥化与硬化问题。主要结论如下:(1)银滩海域潮间沙滩岸边和高潮带泥沙特征为浅黄色细砂,水下岸坡沉积物为砂质覆盖,向海则变为泥质沉积,银滩泥化滩面泥沙中含有较高的"腐泥"成分;(2)银滩附近几个主要排污口的污水能够进入银滩海域,悬浮物浓度高值出现在江河或排污口入海口附近;(3)从泥沙输运的直接来源和污水排放导致的间接来源分析沙滩的泥质来源,人类活动的过度频繁造成了大量污水排入银滩海域,势必携带大量的污泥进入该海域;(4)入海泥沙在排放口附近海域落淤,污水中的"腐泥"成分在一定海洋动力条件下,在经历长期的累积固结过程,使沙滩发生泥化与硬化现象;(5)提出了适当的防治对策和建议,开展银滩整治工作。     

强潮动力条件下厦门湾低潮阶地型沙滩剖面变形的模拟研究

以厦门湾沙滩为研究对象,对强潮动力条件下低潮阶地型沙滩剖面变形进行模拟研究.厦门湾沙滩是一种典型的具有低潮阶地的海湾型沙滩,它具有低波浪能量和大潮差的特征.基于这种类型的沙滩剖面侵蚀和淤积机制提出一个基于过程的一维计算模型,对在通常波浪条件下沙滩中长期的剖面演变进行预测.采用厦门湾观音山沙滩剖面变化的实测数据对模型进行验证,两者具有较好的一致性,其最大相差在0.4 m以内.该一维计算模型能够较好地预测低潮阶地型沙滩剖面侵蚀和淤积的一般趋势和程度.模型计算表明,在波浪和潮汐共同作用下,沙滩滩面斜坡带的上部发生侵蚀,而斜坡带的下部则产生淤积,从而在一段较长的时间内使滩面形态趋于平缓.单是由潮汐引起的剖面泥沙输运虽然很小,但是在潮汐的作用下,破波带沿着沙滩上下变动,从而引起潮差范围内一个较宽区域的剖面侵蚀.     

海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面特征研究

通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。     

山东半岛砂质海滩动力地貌演化特征

为探讨山东半岛砂质海滩的动力地貌学特征,利用波浪和潮汐资料计算了山东半岛浪潮作用指数K和波浪-沉积物参数(Dean参数(Ω)),并进行了地貌类型划分;结合2012~2015年对山东半岛不同地理岸段砂质海岸地形地貌、表层沉积物进行的7次监测,对海滩监测剖面地形高程和表层沉积物粒度监测数据进行了研究,结果表明:山东半岛北部烟台多处海滩为消散型,局部过渡性;威海东侧和山东半岛南部海滩属于过渡型或反射型;不同类型沙滩季节变化差别明显,消散型海滩夏季容易形成沿岸沙坝,冬季海滩沙坝明显受到侵蚀;而过渡型或反射型海滩变化趋势相反,冬季靠近高潮线的部位淤积,形成滩肩,夏季受到侵蚀消失。山东半岛北部海滩粒径较粗,并呈现逐年变粗的趋势,而山东半岛南部粒径较细且逐年变细;季节变化受到波浪条件和季节差异的控制,招远、龙口、威海、日照地区较牟平、海阳、青岛等平直岸段冬季沉积物比夏季粗。山东半岛砂质海滩的地貌形态受海岸的地理位置、海洋动力条件、岸线走向及沙源供给等多种沉积环境因素的影响,人类活动的影响可在短期内对海滩造成剧烈变化,引起海岸严重侵蚀。     

波浪作用下黄河口粉土海床粗化室内模型试验研究

利用室内水槽模型实验,对黄河口粉质海床土在波浪荷载下的粗化现象进行了研究,试验中观测了土体表层沉积物的变化,测量了土体内孔隙水压力及土的粒径变化,结合高密度电阻率法探测结果分析探讨了波浪作用下土体粗化机理.研究表明,波浪作用会使粉质海床土发生明显的粗化现象;土体液化是波浪导致粉土粗化的首要条件;土体内超孔隙水压力累积及消散是细颗粒物质迁移的主要动力.该结果对于研究黄河口粉土海床地貌的形成有一定参考意义.     

威海典型海滩沉积地貌及质量评价

选择威海双岛湾附近海滩、国际海水浴场海滩、金海滩、青叽岛以西海滩、青叽岛以东海滩、天鹅湖海滩、桑沟湾海滩、楮岛海滩、南海新区海滩和乳山银滩十处代表性岸滩进行了海滩地貌和底质调查,结合沙滩表层样品分析测试数据,对研究区海滩地貌、沉积物粒度分布特征及海滩质量进行了综合评价。结果表明:威海海滩沉积物主要包括砾砂、粗砂、中砂、细砂四种类型,其中中砂分布最广,约占所有点位的35.6%,细砂、粗砂、砾砂分别占34.4%,26.7%和3.3%。岸滩坡度一般较缓,宽度中等以上,岸滩质量整体较好,部分岸滩受沉积物粒度影响,质量稍差。     

Sediment facies and pathways of sand transport about a large deep water headland,Cape Rodney,New Zealand

Cape Rodney is a large headland that protrudes 3–4 km into deep water in the Hauraki Gulf and separates the Mangawhai‐Pakiri and Omaha littoral cells. Detailed swath mapping of seabed sediments around Cape Rodney was carried out using by side‐scan sonar and ground‐truthed by SCUBA, grab sampling, and video. Despite the barrier imposed by the headland two pathways of sand transport around the headland, separated by the topographic high of Leigh Reef, have been identified. One lies close to the headland, where sand from the beach and nearshore of the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment is driven by waves and currents along a 500‐m‐wide pathway in c. 20–25 m depth around the headland to the vicinity of Leigh Harbour. The other lies in 50 m water‐depth seawards of Leigh Reef. Here fine sand, sourced from the nearshore of the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment and driven offshore from the tip of the headland, is transported back and forth by tidal currents in 50 m water depth on the floor of the Jellicoe Channel. The sand bodies along both these pathways are thin and so sand leakage from the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment is thought to be small. Transport at these depths is dependent on both tide and wave generated currents and episodic occurring during storm events. The sediment facies associated with little sand transport about a headland in deep water is one of thin and discontinuous and patchy sand cover between rocky areas and over coarser megarippled substrate. Ocean swell, tidally driven phase eddies that spin up on both sides of the headland, and bathymetry all play a role in shaping those facies.     

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range).     

汇泉湾水动力环境观测和数值模拟研究

汇泉湾是青岛市最主要的海水浴场,湾区浴场的沙滩沙质退化及细沙流失现象一直备受关注。本研究旨在研究上述现象的成因,为汇泉湾生态环境保护和可持续发展提供科技支持。我们于2015年1月和9月在汇泉湾进行了水文、泥沙和悬浮物的综合观测,并基于FVCOM建立了汇泉湾高分辨率的水动力模式,模拟了汇泉湾及其临近海域的水动力环境。结果显示:汇泉湾常年存在一顺时针(即反气旋)环流,它有利于携带泥沙从湾的西侧进入而从东侧流出;环流中心区流速弱,泥沙不容易被带走,沉积物粒径较小。汇泉湾海域沙滩沙质粗化且流失的原因主要为:波致流引起的沿岸输沙将湾口西侧岩石剥蚀的较粗的细砂和粉砂搬运至浴场沙滩,而较细的泥沙容易地从东侧流出湾区。     

Community structure of macrobenthos in two tropical sandy beaches with different morphodynamic features, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

The macrobenthos of two exposed tropical sandy beaches in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) were compared in relation to density, species richness, and vertical zonation. Biological and sediment samplings were carried out in the austral winter of 2002 and the austral summer of 2003. The sampling design consisted of 10 transects perpendicular to the water line, evenly divided into strata. A sampling unit was taken in each stratum with a 0.04 m² quadrat sampler. Beaches were also compared according to physical features, such as slope, wave period, wave height, and grain size. According to Dean's Ω morphodynamic index the Pontal is a dissipative beach while the Costa Azul is a reflective one. The mean grain size ranged from median to coarse sand in Costa Azul, whereas in Pontal it ranged from median to very fine sand. Eleven species were collected in the two beaches. Crustaceans were the dominant in the Costa Azul Beach, while the polychaete Scolelepis squamata dominated the Pontal beach. A negative correlation was found between the density of the macrobenthos and mean grain size, and beach slope. On the other hand, the Dean's parameter correlated positively with faunal density. Based on the results of ANOSIM, in both beaches, two groups of stations were identified, defining an upper and a lower beach zone along the vertical distribution of the macrobenthos.     

The sandy beach macrofauna of Gulf of Gabès (Tunisia)

This study describes the macrofauna of the three beaches situated in central Gulf of Gabès (Tunisia): Ouderef, Gabès and Zarrat. The Gulf of Gabès has the largest tides in the Mediterranean and the beaches showed a wide intertidal zone. The beaches were sampled once during the spring low tides of June 2005. A transect was extended at each beach, from above the drift line to below the swash line at five sampled levels; at each level six 0.05 m² replicates were taken to a depth of 30 cm and sieved through a 1-mm mesh, and the organisms collected and preserved. The three beaches showed a different physical environment. Sediment type was medium sand at the steeper Ouderef beach, fine sands at Gàbes beach, and very fine sands at the flatter Zarrat beach. The total number of species collected was 31: 12 crustaceans, 10 polychaetes, four molluscs and five insects. The supralittoral and mediolittoral zones were very different. The supralittoral zone was dominated by Talitrus saltator and insects. The most abundant mediolittoral species were the amphipod crustacean Bathyporeia guilliamsoniana at Ouderef beach (23069 ind.m⁻¹), the surf clam Donax trunculus at Gabès beach (60711 ind.m⁻¹) and the spionid polychaete Scolelepis mesnili at Zarrat beach (18345.6 ind.m⁻¹).     

Haeundae Beach in Korea: Seasonal-to-decadal wave statistics and impulsive beach responses to typhoons

Haeundae Beach represents Korean pocket beaches that are currently erosional and dominated by summertime typhoons. The decadal wave characteristics 9 km offshore of Haeundae Beach were analyzed using the WAM model that was validated through the 2007 wave observations. The wave statistics modelled for 1979–2007 indicates that the seasonal mean significant wave height (H _s ) is highest (0.6–0.7 m) in summer due to typhoons, in contrast to the lowest (around 0.5 m) autumn analog. The wave direction is also pronouncedly seasonal with the principal bearings of SSW and NE in the summer and winter seasons, respectively. The WAM results additionally show that the H _s has gradually increased over the region of Haeundae Beach since 1993. Beach profiling during June–November 2014 shows the opposite processes of the typhoon and fair-weather on beach sands. During a typhoon, foreshore sands were eroded and then accumulated as sand bars on the surf zone. In the subsequent fair-weather, the sand bars moved back to the beach resulting in the surf-zone erosion and foreshore accretion. A total of 5 cycles of these beach-wide sand movements yielded a net retreat (up to 20 m) of the shoreline associated with large foreshore erosion. However, the surf zone only slightly accumulated as a result of the sand cycles. This was attributed to the sand escape offshore from the westernmost tip of the beach. The present study may provide an important clue to understanding the erosional processes in Haeundae Beach.     

渤海湾西岸潮间带沉积物粒度分布特征

根据2003年12月在渤海湾西岸海河口南缘至歧口间岸段采集的4个柱状沉积物样品和6个表层样品的粒度分析结果,探讨了渤海湾西岸潮间带的粒度分布特征和沉积作用。结果表明,由北向南,表层沉积物逐渐变细,分选性变差。海河口南缘至独流减河之间的表层沉积物为分选良好的细砂,至歧口附近变为粉砂质粘土。在垂直方向上,表层以下一定深度内沉积物的平均粒径都存在一均匀层,层内沉积物为分选良好的细砂,此深度以下沉积物中的粘土含量增加。说明由于60年代之后的自然变化和人类活动,入海泥沙量减少,改变了潮间带沉积物原有的输沙与海滩发育模式,导致独流减河以北的砂质沉积物出现粗化现象。     

Shallow‐water sand bars on the Ruamahanga River delta Lake Wairarapa

In the shallow waters of Lake Wairarapa, a multiple series of sublimnic sand bars has developed around the outer edge of the Ruamahanga River delta. Shore‐normal movements in bar positions occur in response to changing lake level and wave conditions. Unlike many bar systems, most of these movements are lakeward of the breaker zone. Sediments on the bar crests are well‐sorted fine sands; the troughs are a mixture of fine sand and mud settling out of the turbid lake waters during calm conditions.