风作用下孤立波在珊瑚礁上传播变形机制数值模拟研究

基于二维不可压缩两相流模型建立了数值风浪水槽,采用SST k-ω雷诺时均湍流模型,研究了风作用下孤立波在珊瑚礁上的传播变形规律。将计算结果与实验数据对比,证明了该两相流模型计算孤立波在珊瑚礁上传播的准确性,并进一步分析了不同风速对珊瑚礁上孤立波传播变形的影响。结果表明：风的作用会使波面发生随机脉动特征。当地波高随风速的增大而增大;当地波高关于风速的变化梯度随入射波高的增大而增大。风的作用会加快孤立波的传播并且使孤立波提前发生破碎;孤立波开始破碎的位置随风速的增大向远离礁坪的方向移动。反射系数随风速的增大而增大;反射系数关于风速的变化梯度随入射波高的增大而减小;透射系数随风速的增大呈增大趋势。平底区波峰剖面同一水深处的水平流速随风速的增大而增大;且一定的风速不改变水平流速沿水深的变化梯度。有风时波面上方的矢量密度和大小均明显高于无风时且与风速呈正相关,并且波峰上方气流不再循环。随着风速的增大,水气交界面附近的正涡量和负湍流剪应力减小,负涡量和正湍流剪应力增大。水体动能、势能和总能达到高值的时间随风速的增大而减少;水体动能、势能和总能随风速的增大而增大,并且风速对水体动能的相对影响大于势能。     

内孤立波过陆架陆坡地形的数值模拟研究

内波是海洋中普遍存在的波动形式。内孤立波是典型的非线性内波,多发于陆架边缘海,如南海等海域,对陆架海域有重要影响。本文针对内孤立波在陆架地形上的传播问题,先基于弱非线性与全非线性数值模型,模拟了不同振幅、地形高度条件下内孤立波的演化的过程,探讨了动力系数对内孤立波演化过程的影响,对比了两模型的模拟结果在内孤立波演化过程、能量分配以及能量耗散的差异,后分析了南海的动力系数分布特征。结果表明,在内孤立波不发生破碎的情况下,弱非线性模型与全非线性模拟结果相近。当发生破碎过程时,弱非线性模型可准确模拟头波,但无法通过强非线性的破碎过程耗散能量,只能以裂变的方式辐射能量。在弱非线性模型中,随地形高度增加,频散系数减小到零,平方非线性系数由负转正,立方非线性系数绝对值增大一个量级,并主导陆架地形上内孤立波的演化过程。通过对比南海夏季与冬季非线性内波动力系数空间分布,发现内孤立波在传播过程由于夏季平方非线性效应、立方非线性效应与频散效应较强的影响,其在夏季更易发生陡化与裂变,波列发生频率高。     

孤立波与升沉水平板相互作用数值模拟研究

合理的刚度和潜深设计可以使升沉水平板获得优异的消浪性能。基于考虑流体黏性的二维不可压缩Navier-Stokes方程,以高阶紧致插值CIP(constrained interpolation profile)方法求解方程对流项,采用VOF(volume of fluid)方法重构自由液面,构建二维数值波浪水槽。采用试验数据验证模型后,研究孤立波与升沉水平板相互作用,分析相对刚度K*、相对潜深d/h、相对波高H/h对于升沉板的消浪性能和运动响应的影响,揭示升沉板对孤立波的消浪机理。研究表明:在孤立波通过时,升沉板会经历一个先上升后下降的运动,随后非线性自由振动,板下方水体近似均匀流动,且水流的垂向流动与板的垂荡方向一致;升沉板主要通过不对称涡旋脱落、浅水变形、波浪反射与辐射波转化等方式消耗孤立波能量;一定条件下,采用最优相对刚度K*=4.0和最优相对潜深d/h=0.52可以取得良好的消浪效果,此时透射系数最小,同时升沉板的运动响应在合理的范围内。     

下凹内孤立波致流场结构及其影响因素的实验研究

为进一步探究海洋内孤立波诱导流场对海洋工程结构物以及潜航器的影响,本文采用重力塌陷方法和粒子图像测速(Particle Image velocimetry,PIV)技术在大型分层流水槽中进行内孤立波造波以及内部流速场测量,定量分析了下凹型内孤立波诱导流场结构及其影响因素。研究表明:在密度分层流体中,PIV技术可实现对大幅面内孤立波诱导流场的精细测量以及波动结构特征的准确描述;水平流速在上下层方向相反且在跃层处最小,其剪切作用在波谷附近最强;垂向流动在波前和波后分别为上升和下沉流,两者流速值在距离波谷1/4~1/2波长位置达到最大;在相同内孤立波振幅条件下,上下层流体密度差越大、厚度比越小,则波致流场越强;随着振幅增大,流场结构与Kd V、e Kd V和MCC理论模型对应波幅适用范围的描述相吻合。     

Computation of solitary waves during propagation and runup on a slope

A numerical time-simulation algorithm for analysing highly nonlinear solitary waves interacting with plane gentle and steep slopes is described by employing a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian method. The full nonlinear free surface conditions are considered here in a Lagrangian frame of reference without any analytical approximations, and thus the method is valid for very steep waves including overturning. It is found that the runup height is crucially dependent on the wave steepness and the slope of the plane. Pressures and forces exerted on impermeable walls of different inclinations (slopes) by progressive shallow water solitary waves are studied. Strong nonlinear features in the form of pronounced double peaks are visible in the time history of pressure and force signals with increasing heights of the oncoming solitary waves. The effect of nonlinearity is less pronounced as the inclination of the wall decreases with respect to the bottom surface.     

基于MPS无网格方法的孤立波传播的数值模拟

在MPS无网格方法中,引进预定候选粒子集概念用以生成邻接粒子集矩阵,使该部分的机时耗费缩短为引进前的1/11;采用Bi-CGSTAB方法求解压力泊松方程,显著地提高了求解速度.模拟了孤立波在数值波浪水槽中的传播及其与直墙作用时的爬升、回落过程,结果表明模拟波面结果与解析值及实测结果基本相符,针对不同波高的孤立波计算得到的墙前最大爬升值与实测结果也是一致的.     

Numerical simulation of solitary wave propagation based on MPS method

The concept of candidate particle set is introduced in the MPS gridless numerical method to generate neighboring particle set matrix, which can reduce the CPU time to 1/11 of that before introduction. The Bi-CGSTAB (bi-conjugate gradient stabilized) algorithm is applied to solving the Poisson pressure equation, by which the solving speed is significantly accelerated. The process of solitary waves propagating over a numerical flume and interacting with a vertical wall is simulated. The simulated results of water surface elevation are in good agreement with the analytical solution as well as the measured data. The predicted maximum values of the run-up of solitary waves with various relative incident wave heights agree well with the measured results.     

Numerical investigation of internal solitary waves from the Luzon Strait: Generation process,mechanism and three-dimensional effects

A fully nonlinear, non-hydrostatic model, MITgcm, is used to investigate internal solitary waves (ISWs) from the Luzon Strait (LS). As the ISWs in the South China Sea (SCS) have drawn more and more attention in recent years, they are studied in various ways, i.e., via remote sensing images, in situ measurements, and numerical simulations. The inspiration of this paper derived from the potential flaws of different numerical models that were employed to examine ISWs. In this study, we performed three-dimensional (3D) experiments with realistic topography and stratification, as well as with fully non-hydrostatic terms in the model, which was rather important for investigating the ISWs.Modeling results showed that baroclinic tides in the LS were essentially three-dimensional (3D), and that wave structures around two ridges in the strait were complicated with interesting internal oceanic phenomena. Several zonal cross-sections were chosen to illustrate vertical structures of zonal velocity field, and to show their meridional variances together with surface horizontal velocity gradients in order to highlight the advantages of 3D modeling with fully nonlinear, non-hydrostatic terms. Following Vlasenko et al. (2005), analysis of two parameters (Froude number and slope parameter that is defined as the ratio of inclination of topography to slope of radiated rays) that govern generation regime indicated that internal waves produced in the LS were subject to a mixed lee wave regime rather than baroclinic tide regime or unsteady lee wave regime.The propagation of ISWs beyond the generation area showed that manifestation of 3D effects was not very obvious, which, through further analysis, was mainly attributed to homogeneity of topography, inaccuracy of barotropic forcing, and Kuroshio intrusion in the LS. To better understand the necessity of 3D modeling, we chose several zonal cross-sections and performed various sensitivity experiments to show discrepancies between 2D and 3D cases.     

On the generation and propagation of internal solitary waves in the southern Bay of Biscay

Internal solitary waves (ISWs), travelling towards the South–South-West (SSW), are now well documented in the northern and central Bay of Biscay. These are formed from large-amplitude internal tides which result from the interaction of the barotropic tide with the steep shelf-break topography. In the present paper, we investigate available satellite imagery (Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) and ASAR data) to reveal that the southern Bay of Biscay is also a “hotspot” region which has a high level of ISW activity. Here, the ISWs travel towards the East–North-East from the Cape Finisterre region off North-West Spain. In fact, we reveal the presence of two wave-trains travelling in slightly different directions (055°T and 040°T). By calculating the strength of the barotropic tidal forcing in the region, and identifying the likely propagation pathways (rays) of internal tidal (IT) energy, we identify the generation sites for these wave-trains as lying on either side of the Ortegal Promontory (OP). This is an undersea “headland” projecting towards the North-West from the north-western coast of Spain (near 44°N, 8.5°W), and over which the barotropic tides are forced to flow. For each generation site, IT rays emanating from “critical” topography (where the ray slope is equal to the topographic slope) in regions of strong barotropic forcing, rise to the surface (for one site after a reflection from the sea-floor) and pass through the thermocline close to the earliest occurrences of the ISWs in the respective wave trains. These rays would then produce, through nonlinear processes, the ISWs through the same “local generation” mechanism that has been used to explain the occurrence of the ISWs in the northern and central Bay. The “local generation” mechanism may therefore be more widely applicable than previously thought. In addition, the methods we have used to deduce the generation sites for these waves are expected to prove equally useful for studies in other areas of the world's oceans.     

Numerical simulation of solitary and randomwave propagation through vegetation based on VOFmethod

A vertical two-dimensional numerical model has been applied to solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier- Stokes （RANS} equations in the simulation of current and wave propagation through vegetated and non- vegetated waters. The k-e model is used for turbulence closure of RANS equations. The effect of vegeta- tion is simulated by adding the drag force of vegetation in the flow momentum equations and turbulence model. To solve the modified N-S equations, the finite difference method is used with the staggered grid system to solver equations. The Youngs＇ fractional volume of fluid （VOF） is applied tracking the free sur- face with second-order accuracy. The model has been tested by simulating dam break wave, pure current with vegetation, solitary wave runup on vegetated and non-vegetated channel, regular and random waves over a vegetated field. The model reasonably well reproduces these experimental observations, the model- ing approach presented herein should be useful in simulating nearshore processes in coastal domains with vegetation effects.     

Modeling of propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current

A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.     

A numerical study of the generation and propagation of internal solitary waves in the Luzon Strait

A new composite model, which consists of a generation model of the internal tides and a regularized long wave propagation model, is presented to study the generation and evolution of internal solitary waves in the sill strait. Internal bores in the sill strait are first simulated by the generation model, and then the internal tidal field outside of the sill region is given as input for the propagation model. Numerical experiments are carried out to study the imposing tide, depth profile, channel width and shoaling effect, etc., on the generation and evolution of internal solitary waves. It is shown that only when the amplitude of internal tide at the forcing boundary of the propagation model is large enough that a train of internal solitary waves would be induced. The amplitude of the imposing tide in the generation model, shoaling effect, asymmetry of the depth profile and channel width have some effects on the amplitude of the induced internal solitary wave. The imposing tidal flow superimposed on a constant mean background flow has a great damping effect on the induced internal waves, especially on those propagate against the background flow direction. The generation and propagation of internal solitary waves in three possible straits among the Luzon Strait are simulated, and the reasons for the asymmetry of their propagation are also explained.     

孤立波在岸礁地形上传播与爬坡数值模拟研究

为准确模拟孤立波在岸礁地形上的传播和爬坡,采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程开发的Funwave-TVD模型,探究模型的可行性,并利用验证后的模型进一步研究岸礁各地形因素对孤立波爬高的影响。研究结果表明:模型能准确模拟孤立波在岸礁陡变地形上的传播及变形,摩擦系数对礁前陡坡及礁坪上的波浪传播模拟影响不大,但对爬坡预测的敏感性较强;模型空间步长可适当增大,提高计算效率;随着礁坪宽度的增大以及礁后斜坡的变缓,孤立波爬坡高度下降明显,而礁前陡坡坡度变化对孤立波爬坡高度影响不大。     

Monthly variation of some parameters about internal solitary waves in the South China sea

In this paper, by non-dimensional analysis, it is found that finite-depth theory is more appropriate to the study of internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the South China Sea (SCS) than shallow-water theory. The 1-degree grid data of monthly mean temperature and salinity data at standard levels in the SCS are used to solve the linearized vertical eigenvalue problem. The nonlinear parameter and the wave phase speed are computed, then the nonlinear phase speed and the characteristic half-width of ISWs are calculated respectively by two different theories to investigate the difference between these two parameters in the SCS. The nonlinearity is the strongest near the continental slope of the SCS or islands where the bottom topography changes sharply, it is stronger in summer than that in winter; it increases (decreases) as pycnocline depth deepens (shallows), stratification strengthens (weakens) and pycnocline thickness thins (thickens). The nonlinear wave phase speed and the characteristic half-width are the largest in deep sea area, they then reduce peripherally in shallower water. The nonlinear wave phase speed in the SCS changes slightly with time, but the characteristic half-width changes somewhat larger with time. In most of the SCS basin, the nonlinear wave phase speed derived from shallow-water theory is very close to that derived from finite-depth theory, but the characteristic half-width derived from shallow-water theory is about 0.2–0.6 times larger than that derived from finite-depth theory. The ISW induced horizontal current velocity derived from shallow-water theory is larger than that derived from finite-depth theory. Some observed and numerical modeled ISW characteristic half-widths are compared with those derived from shallow-water and finite-depth theories, respectively. It is shown that, the characteristic half-widths derived from finite-depth theory agree better with observational and numerical modeled results than those derived from shallow-water theory in most cases, finite-depth theory is more applicable to the estimation of ISW characteristic half-widths in the northern SCS. It is also suggested that, to derive the precise ISW parameters in further study, the physical non-dimensional ratios which are related with ISW characteristic half-width, amplitude, thermocline and water depths should be calculated, so that an appropriate theory can be chosen for estimation.     

The investigation of internal solitary waves over a continental shelf-slope

Internal solitary waves(ISWs)always happen in marginal seas,where stable stratification exists.ISWs may carry large energy when they propagate and affect marine engineering constructions such as marine drilling platforms.Previous studies,including a large number of mooring observations and laboratory experiments,show the speed of ISWs will change when they pass by shelf slopes.Korteweg-de Vries(KdV)theory explain this phenomenon.In the paper,we use a laboratory experiment and a numerical model experiment to verify this theory.In the laboratory experiment,we injected two layers of water of different densities in a tank to simulate marine stratification and make ISWs.We use a CCD camera to record the whole process.The camera can take 16 photos per second.In the numerical experiment,we input the same original conditions as the laboratory one.The results of 18 different original conditions show the dimensionless factorδplays a key role in deciding the amplitudes and shapes of ISWs.The main conclusion also contains that small-amplitude waves match well with KdV theory while mKdV is better for largeamplitude waves.Whether the laboratory experiment or numerical experiment shows results with a high agreement.In future studies,we may use a numerical model with higher resolution to get analysis about phase speed and energy of ISWs.     

Experimental and numerical investigation of viscous effects on solitary wave propagation in a wave tank

Two-dimensional depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations were presented with the consideration of slowly varying bathymetry and effects of bottom viscous boundary layer. These Boussinesq-type equations were written in terms of the horizontal velocity components evaluated at an arbitrary elevation in the water depth and the free surface displacement. The leading order effects of the bottom boundary layer were represented by a convolution integral in the depth-integrated continuity equation. To test the validity of the theory, a set of laboratory experiments was performed to measure the viscous damping and shoaling of a solitary wave propagating in a wave tank. The time histories of the free surface profiles were measured at several locations along the centerline of the flume. To compare these laboratory data with theoretical results, the two-dimensional Boussinesq-type equations were integrated across the wave tank, resulting in a set of one-dimensional equations, while the side-wall boundary layers were properly considered. The agreement between the experimental data and numerical results was very good. The bottom shear stress formula was also given and its impact on the sediment transport rate was discussed.     

Numerical simulation of interaction between internal solitary waves and submerged ridges

Direct numerical simulations are performed to study the transformation of internal solitary waves (ISWs) of depression type propagating over an underwater ridge in a two-layer fluid system. Bottom ridges with relatively smooth vertex are employed to represent sills in natural lakes and oceans. Consistent with previous experiments, three interaction types (weak, moderate and strong) are observed to be based on the energy loss. In addition, the moderate interaction are found to be categorized into transmitted and reflected type according to their distinct transformation process. General flow characteristics for ISW–ridge interaction in the benthic boundary layer and in the pycnocline is monitored and analysed. A modified degree of blocking B_m considering both the nonlinear effect of incident ISWs and the blockage effect of the submerged ridge is proposed. Different ISW–ridge interactions are discovered to be linked with B_m. Maximum wave-induced velocities, wave energy losses, reflected and transmitted wave amplitudes are found to have a self-similar feature with B_m. The maximum energy loss is up to 35% and the maximum wave-induced velocity can reach 1.8 times of the phase speed of the incident ISW. Empirical equations are obtained based on the data fitting to predict some useful physical parameters during ISW–ridge interaction.     

A 2D-numerical modeling of the generation and propagation of internal solitary waves in the Luzon Strait

The wide presence of internal solitary waves (ISWs) in the northern South China Sea (SCS) has been confirmed by both Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images and in situ observations. These ISWs are believed being generated over the varying topography in the Luzon Strait. They typically propagate westwards into the SCS with a diurnal or semidiurnal period. Their generation sites are, however, not yet solidly identified. To obtain a clear picture of the ISWs, we designed numerical experiments to analyze the generation and propagation of the ISWs in the Luzon Strait using a 2-dimensional non-hydrostatic model. The model current is forced by barotropic or baroclinic currents imposed at open boundaries. The experiments show that the tidal current serves as a kind of triggering force for the ISWs over the submarine ridges in the strait. Under the forcing of tidal currents, depressions are formed near the ridges. The ISWs then split from the depressions through a process different from lee-wave generation mechanism. The appearance of the ISWs is influenced by the strength and period of the forcing current:the ISWs are more likely to be generated by a stronger tidal current. That is why the ISWs in the Luzon Strait are frequently observed during spring tide. Compared with diurnal tidal current, the ISWs generated by semidiurnal tidal current with the same amplitude is much more energetic. It is partly because that the wave beams in diurnal frequency have a larger angle with the vertical direction, thus are more likely to be reflected by the topography slope. The impact of the Kuroshio to the ISWs is also analyzed by adding a vertical uniform or shear current at boundaries. A vertically uniform current may generate ISWs directly. On the other hand, a vertically shear current, which is more realistic to represent the Kuroshio branch, seems to have little influence on the generation process and radiating direction of the ISWs in the Luzon Strait.     

Numerical study of propagation of ship waves on a sloping coast

The aim of this paper is to investigate the propagation of ship waves on a sloping coast on the basis of results simulated by a 2D model. The governing equations used for the present model are the improved Boussinesq-type equations. The wave breaking process is parameterized by adding a dissipation term to the depth-integrated momentum equation. To give the boundary conditions at the ship location, the slender-ship approximation is used. It was verified that, although ship waves are essentially transient, the Snell's law can be applied to predict crest orientation of the wake system on a sloping coast. Based on simulated results, an applicable empirical formula to predict the maximum wave height on the slope is introduced. The maximum wave height estimated by the proposed method agrees well with numerical simulation results.     

近岸流对波浪传播影响的数值分析

使用近岸波浪模型SWAN计算存在沿岸流和离岸流时的近岸波浪传播。先设离岸流u=0m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀沿岸流的流速和梯度对波高传播的影响;再设沿岸流v=0.5m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀离岸流的流速和梯度对波能高传播的影响。从模拟中得到,近岸波浪传播受沿岸流、离岸流的流速和梯度影响时,波高的变化规律。