Impact pressure of breaking waves on vertical and sloping walls

Laboratory tests are conducted to measure the impact pressures of breaking waves on vertical, 5° forward, and 5, 10, 20, 30, and 45° backward sloping walls. The base structure of the wall has a foreshore slope of . Regular waves are used throughout the experiments for all wall angles. The maximum impact pressures on the wall are shown to satisfy the log-normal probability distribution. It is found from the present experiments that the impact pressures and resulting forces on sloping walls can be greater than those on a vertical wall. On the seven different walls tested, the maximum impact pressures occur most frequently slightly below the still-water level. The pattern of the impact pressure history does not change with the slope of the wall, and as the probability of maximum impact pressure decreases, the pressures around the peak pressure region of the impact pressure histories remain longer.     

Hydrodynamic forces on partly buried tandem, twin pipelines in current

This study extends the investigations of the forces on a cylinder, laid on, or partly buried in the bed with a parallel twin dummy cylinder nearby and without it, and were determined by measuring the pressure distribution on the cylinder in the case of a steady current. The pressure distribution around the cylinder was measured by using pressure transducers. The forces on the cylinder were calculated by the integration of the measured pressures on the surface of the cylinder. Force coefficients were obtained for the ranges of Re=0.8×10⁴–1.5×10⁴ for the burial depth to diameter RATIO=0:0.7. The distance between axis of the measurement and dummy cylinders to diameter ratio (x/D) was 2, 1.5 and 1. The dummy cylinder was replaced downstream and upstream of the measurement cylinder.     

Hydrodynamic forces on a partly buried cylinder exposed to combined waves and current

The present study extends the investigations of the hydrodynamic forces on a cylinder, laid on, or partly buried in the bed. They were determined by measuring the pressure distribution on the cylinder surface in the case of steady current, waves and coexisting flow. The pressure distribution around the cylinder was measured by using pressure transducers, which were replaced in the cylinder. Force coefficients were obtained for the ranges of Re=0.8×10⁴–1.5×10⁴, for steady current, low KC numbers (KC<5) for wave alone case and, for current-to-wave velocity RATIO=0, 3, 6 and infinity (current) for coexisting flow. The forces were also determined for the various burial-depth-to-diameter ratios between 0 and 0.7 values of the cylinder.     

Theoretical and experimental investigation of a vertical wall response to wave impact

The laboratory and field experiments so far have shown that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, the resulting impact pressures may become very severe in magnitude and short in duration. Some experimental evidence in the literature suggests that the structural response to the extremely high magnitude impact forces is only limited. This study is mainly concerned with the comparison of the theoretical and experimental results of a vertical wall response under the wave impact loading. In the dynamic analysis of the wall the classical elastic plate theory is used and the numerical results for the dynamic values of the transverse displacement are obtained by employing the method of finite elements. In the theoretical analyses the experimental pressure histories are used and the theoretical wall deflection histories are compared with the experimental results. The computational and experimental deflection histories exhibit similar patterns. The theoretical maximum wall deflections are mostly found to be slightly smaller than the experimental values.     

An investigation of breaking wave pressures on inclined walls

Shoreline structures are subjected to breaking wave loads which may reach 690 KN/m². One possibility to reduce these loadings is to slope the exposed surface backwards. The possible amount of reduction in breaking wave loads is, however, unclear, and recent model tests indicated that sloped walls might be exposed to higher loads than are vertical walls. Within the Wave Energy Group at Queen's University Belfast, tests on a 1/36 model of a shoreline wave power station were conducted in order to assess the influence of front wall inclination on the magnitude of breaking wave pressures. It was found that breaking wave pressures decrease from 100% for the vertical wall to 44% for a 32.7° backwards inclined wall and to 64% for a 32.7° forward inclined wall. From the results it was concluded that a maximum pressure of 105% can be expected for a 10° forward inclined wall. Design recommendations were found to be conservative.     

Design of a caisson plate under wave impact

From the laboratory experiments and field studies it has been shown that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical wall, impact pressures of high magnitude and short duration, are produced. Despite the recent advances made in collecting data on impact pressure histories and their spatial distributions, analyses on the structural behaviour of the walls loaded by the impact forces do not seem adequate. In the present study the theoretical analysis of the response characteristics of a caisson plate, having different aspect ratios, under the wave impact loading is investigated. Numerical results for the dynamic values of moments and transverse displacements are obtained by the method of finite elements. Some prerequisite experimental data for wave breaking and resulting impact pressures are provided. The static results for moments and deflections are also computed for comparing them with the dynamic values. The dynamic results are found significantly greater than the static values. The ratio between the dynamic and static values is called “Dynamic magnification factor” that varies with plate aspect ratio. Based on this factor a procedure is proposed which may have practical consequences in the design of caisson plates.     

Breaking wave impact on vertical and sloping coastal structures

The results of laboratory experiments on the maximum and bottom impact pressures from waves breaking directly on vertical and sloping faced coastal structures are presented. Direct wave breaking on a wall is classified as early, late, and perfect breaking. Although the present study is aimed at dealing with the type of impact resulting from the perfect breaking, to some extent the occurrence of early and late breaking are unavoidable. The wave impact pressures, therefore, have a random nature of variation from impact-to-impact under the same conditions. The maximum and bottom impact pressures on walls are treated statistically. The effects of the wall angle and foreshore slope on these two quantities are examined. The results show that for practical applications, the still-water level can be taken as the acting place for the maximum impact pressure on the wall. Simultaneous impact pressure distribution below and above still-water level may be approximated as parabolic and linear, respectively. Finally, using a wall deflection criterion, a water depth region in front of the wall is defined, where the breaking wave forces may reach a critical level.     

Violent breaking wave impacts. Part 1: Results from large-scale regular wave tests on vertical and sloping walls

As part of an investigation into the detailed characteristics of wave impacts, experimental data are presented for the impact pressures and forces generated by waves up to 1.7 m high breaking onto a vertical wall and a wall inclined at 27° to the vertical. Particular attention is given to the influence of entrained and entrapped air and, by selecting regular wave conditions that produce impacts, trends are identified for highly variable phenomena that could easily be missed when masked by the even greater variability associated with irregular waves.     

Power resource estimate of ocean surface waves

The distribution of wave energy and power as functions of longitude and latitude are presented for the Northern Hemisphere at 12Z, October 2, 1975. Both the large peak of the distribution in the Atlantic Ocean and the smaller peak in the Pacific Ocean are found to be at longitudes towards the eastern end of the ocean basins. This ‘eastern accumulation’ of wave energy and power offers interesting contrast to the western intensification of currents. Distribution of wave power with latitude shows peaks of wave power in the mid-latitudes. The total surface wave energy in the seas of thw world for the same time is estimated to be 1600 × 10¹⁵ J. The corresponding total wave power estimate is 90 × 10¹⁵ W. The rate of renewal of wave power is estimated to bs 10¹²–10¹³ W, about the present level of world power consumption.     

Solvent extraction of copper acetylacetonate in studies of copper(II) speciation in seawater

A liquid-liquid partition, ligand exchange procedure involving the formation of copper(II) complexes with acetylacetone is presented for the determination of stability constants and concentrations of copper chelators in seawater. Acetylacetone competes with natural ligands for copper, and the equilibrium concentration of the copper acetylacetonate complex is used in speciation calculations. The concentration of the complex is calculated by partitioning a fraction of it into an organic phase and determining the total Cu concentration in that phase by back extracting with acid, and analyzing by flameless atomic absorption spectroscopy. The concentration of Cu acetylacetonate in seawater in equilibrium with the organic phase is calculated from the partition coefficient. The simple, thermodynamically well characterized procedure offers several advantages over previous techniques. Studies using organic free seawater and model ligands show good agreement between experimental and calculated conditional stability constants. Studies from seawater in Biscayne Bay, Florida, indicate two ligand types are present; type 1, K₁ = 1.2 × 10¹², C_L1 = 5.1 × 10⁻⁹ M; type 2, K₂ = 2.8 × 10¹⁰, C_L2 = 1.1 × 10⁻⁷ M. Speciation is dominated by ligand type 1. Depth profiles of [Cu(II)]_free/[Cu(II)]_total measured with the procedure at ambient copper concentrations show an increase from < 5 × 10⁻⁵ at 50–60 m to > 1 × 10⁻³ at the surface at two stations off the Florida coast.     

Dynamic analysis of a vertical plate exposed to breaking wave impact

From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of p_max/γH₀≤18.     

The experimental study on infra-gravity wave

A series of experiments were conducted in a super-wave flume (300 m×5 m×5.2 m) to examine the low-frequency motion induced by waves with different incident steepness, sloping gradients and normalized frequency (sideband space). Two kinds of waves including initial uniform wave train and modulated wave train (one carrier with a pair of sidebands) are utilized for incident wave conditions. From the experimental results, it is found that for a given slope gradient the infra-gravity wave component decreases as wave nonlinearity increases and frequency downshift is a predominant factor. Furthermore, the magnitude of low-frequency component decreases with slope gradients for a given initial wave condition. In addition, the maximum value of low-frequency motion is found to be close to the normalized frequency, δ=1.0.     

Southwest Pacific subtropical mode water: A climatology

The large-scale distribution and changes in Southwest Pacific subtropical mode water (STMW) are investigated and discussed. The paper presents for the first time geographic maps showing the spatial distribution of STMW thicknesses, with a vertical temperature gradient <2.0 °C/100 m occupying the 14–20 °C range below the mixed layer depth, across the entire Southwest Pacific region. STMW changes in areal thickness extent, vertical cross-sectional area along selected transects, and total volume, are examined on seasonal and interannual time scales between 1973 and 1988.We find that STMW extends across the entire width of the Tasman Sea in a very broad swath between the Tropical Convergence in the north (just to the south of New Caledonia), the southeast Australian coast in the west to as far south as 39°S (likely due to the southward extension of the EAC), and eastwards along the Southern STMW boundary in a meandering pathway that broadly follows the Tasman Front. The total STMW volume across the region (i.e., west of 180°) varies seasonally by a factor of more than three between the estimated maximum of 6.6 (±0.5) × 10¹⁴ m³ in October and minimum of 1.9 (±0.4) × 10¹⁴ m³ in May. Interannual variations O (±0.5 × 10¹⁴ m³) are also observed in the spatial extent of the thick mode water and its total volume. El Niño composite maps show an anomalous thickening of the STMW during the El Niño year with October positive thickness anomalies in excess of +20 m (total volume anomaly of +0.6 × 10¹⁴ m³) manifested throughout the subtropical gyre interior as far north as New Caledonia. Total volume anomalies tend to be positive from January of the El Niño year through to the July following (18 months). The maximum correlation coefficient r = −0.3 between 3-monthly STMW volume anomalies and the Southern Oscillation index is statistically significant at the 95% confidence level. We conclude that during the anomalous cooling of the upper Southwest Pacific Ocean in the El Niño year, winter-time convection and STMW formation is enhanced across the region resulting in an El Niño – Southern Oscillation climate signal that is identifiable below the mixed layer by the increased STMW volume which persists through to the following winter. Finally, some evidence for the possible decadal modulation of the STMW variability is also discussed.     

On vertical velocity fluctuations and internal tides in an upwelling region off the west coast of India

Hourly fluctuations of vertical velocity in relation to components of flow and wind and temperature oscillations at a morring site in the shelf waters off the west coast of India are discussed. The vertical velocities were computed from a time series of vertical temperature profiles assuming that horizontal advection of temperature is negligible. The computed values at a depth of 40 m during the 72-h period of observation were of the order of 10⁻¹ to 10⁻²cm s⁻¹, with a mean value of −2·77 × 10⁻² cm s⁻¹ indicating a net upward movement of water. The computed vertical velocity showed fluctuations of about 2–3 h, in addition to weaker signals of about 12 h. Based on the spectral estimates, we speculate that these fluctuations of 2–3 h in the vertical velocity may be caused by the fluctuations in the along-shore wind. The oscillations of isotherms found in the temperaturedepth time series and the spectral estimates of temperature and cross-shore flow component showed a periodicity of about 12 h, which indicated the presence of semi-diurnal internal waves. The fact that these internal wave troughs were associated with the measured onshore flow suggested that the waves were propagating offshore. The computed stability parameters showed little evidence of instability or mixing. It was found that the isotherm troughs in the temperaturedepth time series at about 12-h period coincided with high vertical shear in the cross-shore direction and low values of Brunt Vaisälä frequency.     

The solubility of CaCO3 in seawater at 2°C based upon in-situ sampled pore water composition

Analyses of the concentration product (Ca²⁺) × (CO₃²⁻) in the pore waters of marine sediments have been used to estimate the apparent solubility products of sedimentary calcite (K′_SPc) and aragonite (K′_SPa) in seawater. Regression of the data gives the relation In K′^P_SPc = 1.94 × 10⁻³ δP − 14.59 The 2°C, 1 atm value of K′_SPc is, then, 4.61 × 10⁻⁷ mol² l⁻². The pressure coefficient yields a at 2°C of −43.8 cm³ atm⁻¹. A single station where aragonite is present in the sediments gives a value of K′_SPa = 9.2 × 10⁻⁷ (4°C, 81 atm). The calcite data are very similar to those determined experimentally by Ingle et al. (1973) for K′_SPc at 2°C and 1 atm. The calculated is also indistinguishable from the experimental results of Ingle (1975) if is assumed to be independent of pressure.     

Surface boundary-layer variability off Northern California, USA, during upwelling

A five-element mooring array is used to study surface boundary-layer transport over the Northern California shelf from May to August 2001. In this region, upwelling favorable winds increase in strength offshore, leading to a strong positive wind stress curl. We examine the cross-shelf variation in surface Ekman transport calculated from the wind stress and the actual surface boundary-layer transport estimated from oceanic observations. The two quantities are highly correlated with a regression slope near one. Both the Ekman transport and surface boundary layer transport imply curl-driven upwelling rates of about 3×10⁻⁴ m s⁻¹ between the 40 and 90 m isobaths (1.5 and 11.0 km from the coast, respectively) and curl-driven upwelling rates about 1.5×10⁻⁴m s⁻¹ between the 90 and 130 m isobaths (11.0 and 28.4 km from the coast, respectively). Thus curl-driven upwelling extends to at least 25 km from the coast. In contrast, upwelling driven by the adjustment to the coastal boundary condition occurs primarily inshore of the 40-m isobath. The upwelling rates implied by the differentiating the 40-m transport observations with the coastal boundary condition are up to 8×10⁻⁴ m s⁻¹. The estimated upwelling rates and the temperature–nitrate relationship imply curl-driven vertical nitrate flux divergences are about half of those driven by coastal boundary upwelling.     

Biosiliceous particle flux in the Southern Ocean

The flux of diatom valves and radiolarian shells obtained during short-term and annual sediment trap experiments at seven localities in the Atlantic sector of the Antarctic Ocean (in the Drake Passage, Bransfield Strait, Powell Basin, NW and SE Weddell Sea and the Polar Front north of Bouvet Island) is summarized and discussed. The deployment of time-series sediment traps provided annual flux records between 1983 and 1990. The biosiliceous particle flux is characterized by significant seasonal and interannual variations. Flux pulses, accounting for 70–95% of the total annual flux, occur during austral summer, with a duration ranging between about 2 and 9 weeks. The annual values of vertical diatom and radiolarian flux range between 0.26 × 10⁹ and more than 26 × 10⁹ valves m⁻² and between 0.21 × 10⁴ and 70 × 10⁴ shells m⁻², respectively. Interannual differences in the particle flux range over a factor of 10. Grazers play an important role in controlling the quantity, timing and pattern of the vertical biosiliceous particle flux.The flux pattern of diatoms and radiolarians is similar at most of the sites investigated and shows a close relationship between the production of siliceous phytoplankton and proto-zooplankton. At some sites, however, the radiolarian flux pattern indicates probably phytoplankton production which is not documented by direct signals in the trap record.During their transfer through the water column to the ocean floor, the composition of the biosiliceous particles is altered mechanically (breakdown by grazing Zooplankton) and by dissolution, which significantly affects especially diatoms and phaeodarians in the upper portion of the water column and at the sediment-water interface.Significant lateral transport of suspended biosiliceous particles was observed in the bottom water layer in regions adjacent to shelf areas (Bransfield Strait), and in the vicinity of topographic elevations (Maud Rise), indicating considerable redistribution of biogenic silica in these regions.     

Geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters

The experimental results have so far shown that when a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face at the instant of impact that is called perfect breaking or perfect impact, the greatest impact forces are produced on the wall. Therefore, the configuration of breaking waves is important in the design considerations of coastal structures. The present study is concerned with determining the geometrical properties of oscillatory waves that break perfectly on the vertical wall of composite-type breakwaters. The laboratory tests for perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters are conducted with base slopes of 1/2, 1/4 and 1/6, and with berm widths of 0.00, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30 and 0.40 m. The shape and the dimensions of waves at the instant of perfect breaking on the wall are determined using a video camera. The experimental results for the geometrical properties of the breakers are presented non-dimensionally. Within the range of present experimental conditions, it is found that the dimensionless breaker crest height, h_b/d_w, and dimensionless breaker height, H_b/d_w, decrease; and, dimensionless breaker depth, d_w/H₀, increases with increasing relative berm width, B/D. The breaker height index, H_b/H₀, is almost unaffected by B/D. The deep-water wave steepness and the base slope of the breakwater do not seem to influence the geometrical properties of the breakers at wall systematically.     

Distribution and contamination of trace metals in surface sediments of the East China Sea

The distributions, contamination status and annual sedimentation flux of trace metals in surface sediments of the East China Sea (ECS) were studied. Higher concentrations of the studied metals were generally found in the inner shelf and the concentrations decreased seaward. The sequences of the enrichment factor (EF) of the studied metals are Cu > Mn > Ni > Zn > Pb > Fe. The values of EF suggest that the metals contamination in the middle and outer shelves of the ECS is still minor. The annual sedimentation fluxes of trace metals in the ECS were: Fe, 3.48 × 10⁷ t/y; Mn, 9.07 × 10⁵ t/y; Zn, 1.08 × 10⁵ t/y; Ni, 4.48 × 10⁴ t/y; Pb, 4.32 × 10⁴ t/y and Cu, 3.1 × 10⁴ t/y, respectively. Approximately 55–70% and 10–17% of the sedimentation fluxes of trace metals were deposited in the inner shelf and the Changjiang estuarine zone.