正压海洋地形拦截波的不稳定

从描述f平面上的正压地形拦截波的非线性动力方程出发,利用常微分方程定性理论研究了海底地形坡度和海底摩擦对线性和非线性地形拦截波的动力不稳定性的影响,分析了不稳定的性质,找出了不稳定的判据。还在特定的海底地形坡度和海底摩擦条件下,建立了线性和非线性波的频散关系,并比较了两者的差别。     

摩擦和β效应对地形拦截波的影响

利用含湍流粘性的β平面正压海洋线性扰动方程组和刚盖近似,针对大陆架上为指数剖面、深海大洋为平坦的海底地形以及任意走向的直线海岸线,研究得到了流函数的图象和相应的波频散关系以及波的约束条件,讨论了摩擦、β效应、海岸线的走向和陆架宽度对波动性质的影响。     

抛物型对称海脊引导波完整解析理论

越洋海啸能够被大洋海脊引导并沿海脊传播至远场地区,虽然传播速度较慢,但携带较大的能量,会对远场地区造成灾害影响,相关研究对于提高海啸传播特性本质的认识具有重要意义。本文基于线性长波方程,推导出了抛物型对称海脊引导波完整解析理论。研究表明对称型海脊同时存在对称与反对称引导波,其自由水面波动可以表示为虚宗量Bessel函数形式。利用海脊中心对称条件给出了描述其频率与波数的频散关系。基于所提理论进一步分析讨论了引导波的运动特性,包括频散关系、波速度、能量传播速度与波面空间分布等。本研究为揭示地形坡度由脊顶至两侧逐渐增加的海脊引导波运动特征,预测实际越洋海啸中最具威胁性海啸波的到达时间提供了理论依据。     

海啸波传播的线性和非线性特征及近海陆架效应影响的数值研究

浅水方程被广泛应用于海啸预警报业务及研究,而针对线性浅水方程与非线性浅水方程在不同海区水深地形条件下的适用范围、计算效率问题是海啸研究人员急需了解的。本文应用基于浅水方程的海啸数值预报模型就海啸波在南海、东海传播的线性、非线性特征以及陆架对其传播之影响进行了数值分析研究。海啸波在深水的传播表征为强线性特征,此时线性系统对海啸波幅的模拟计算具有较高的精度和效率,而弱的非线性特征及弱的色散特征对海啸波幅的预报影响甚微,可以忽略不计。海啸波传播至浅水大陆架后受海底坡度变化、海底粗糙度等因素影响,波动的非线性效应迅速传播、积累,与线性浅水方程计算的海啸波相比表现出较大差异,主要表现为:在南海区,水深小于100m时,海啸波首波以后的系列波动非线性特征比较明显,两者波幅差别较大,但首波波幅的区别不大,因此对于该区域在不考虑海啸爬高的情况下,应用线性系统计算得到的海啸波幅也可满足海啸预警报的要求;在东海区由于陆架影响,海啸波非线性特征明显增强,水深小于100m区域,首波及其后系列波波幅均差异较大,故在该区域必须考虑海啸波非线性作用。本文就底摩擦项对海啸波首波波幅的影响进行了数值对比分析,结果表明:底摩擦作用对海啸波首波波幅影响仅作用于小于100m水深。最后,该文通过敏感性试验,初步分析了陆架宽度及陆架边缘深度对海啸波波幅的影响,得出海啸波经陆架传播共振、变形后,海啸波幅的放大或减小与陆架的宽度及陆架边缘水深有关。     

阿拉伯海上层海温的双峰特征

利用全球海洋Argo网格数据集、SODA月平均海洋数据集和CCMP风场数据,通过EOF分析,揭示了阿拉伯海5、50、100、200 m层海温全年2次增温、2次降温的双峰变化特征.结果表明,5 m层温度变化双峰信号出现在第一模态,其方差贡献率为75.79%,该信号主要受风场、太阳辐射及风生环流影响;50 m层温度变化双峰信号出现在第三模态,其方差贡献率为11.95%,该信号主要受风生环流影响;100 m层温度变化双峰信号出现在第一模态和第三模态,其中第一模态方差贡献率为52.03%,第三模态方差贡献率为9.55%.由100 m层第一模态可知,100 m层温度变化幅度最大、变化范围最广,是由于100 m层处于海洋温度变化最为剧烈的温跃层中.100 m层海温变化主要受风应力旋度(方向:向上为正)影响,风应力旋度为负时,大气对海洋的强迫导致局地海水辐合,温跃层加深,100 m层部分海域温度升高;风应力旋度为正时,大气对海洋的抽吸导致局地海水辐散,海洋深处的冷水上升,100 m层部分海域温度降低.     

海洋运动对大尺度风场影响的解析研究

为探讨海洋向大尺度风应力响应的具体过程,建立了考虑海面风应力强迫的正压原始方程海洋模型,并利用Green函数做了解析求解和讨论。发现风应力引起的Ekman抽吸正比于风应力旋度。得到了海洋向风应力响应的具体形式:即海洋流场和压力场进行着准平衡的演变,并有海洋中压力梯度与科氏力之间的准地转平衡以及海洋Ekman体积输送的散度场与风应力旋度场之间的准平衡;此时有短周期的重力惯性波被激发,该波会较快弥散掉;而准平衡的演变则始终持续着。海洋在大尺度风场的强迫下的运动由重力惯性波、强迫惯性振荡和缓慢演变的准平衡过程三部分组成;前两部分是快过程,第一部分更快,第三部分是慢过程。最终海洋运动表现为强迫惯性振荡和准平衡演变过程的叠加。     

北太平洋风场变化对东亚陆架海SST的影响

太平洋内部的气候变化与东亚陆架海海洋环境变化密切相关.本文利用OAflux资料、NCEP再分析资料,分析北太平洋内部风场的时空变化特征,将其距平场序列与东亚陆架海SSTA序列进行相关性分析,找出对东亚陆架海SST影响显著的风场关键区.结果表明:东亚陆架海SST距平序列与PDO指数同期相关系数接近于0,说明北太平洋内部异常信号只能通过斜压Rossby波调整影响东亚陆架海SST,不存在正压调整过程;北太平洋风场“关键区A、B”对东亚陆架海SST的变化影响最显著,且1958-2010年,2个风场“关键区”风速异常增强,分别被风应力旋度偶极子、异常负风应力旋度场控制,异常信号从中东太平洋传递到东亚陆架海,导致该海区SST明显升高,尤其是黑潮海域;“关键区A、B”风场异常信号分别超前东亚陆架海SST变化4a (7a)、4a时呈显著正相关,该时间基本与斜压Rossby波从大洋中东部传递到西部或副热带环流对风场变化通过斜压Rossby波进行调整所需的时间一致.     

孟加拉湾陆架对潮汐的影响研究

孟加拉湾典型地形对潮汐的影响机制尚未得到深入研究,故本文基于FVCOM(finite-volume community ocean model)设置了一组控制试验和三组对照试验,通过数值试验手段理解湾顶和两侧陆架地形,以及陆架区域显著的峡谷地形对该区域潮汐的影响机制。试验结果显示:恒河峡谷有利于减小峡谷附近的潮波振幅,但对湾顶潮差影响不大;顶部陆架宽度有助于增大潮波振幅,增大湾顶的潮差;东侧陆架有助于增强开尔文波,增大湾顶潮差,但影响不如顶部的陆架显著;西侧陆架仅对西部局地有影响,对整体同潮图分布影响较小。     

孟加拉湾局地动力过程的季节变化研究

利用观测资料和理论模型,研究了孟加拉湾海表面高度的季节循环.结果表明,局地风应力旋度驱动的斜压Rossby波是孟加拉湾海表高度季节循环的主要控制因子,而孟加拉湾海底地形分布也影响了海表面高度的季节循环.受风应力旋度驱动的斜压Rossby波在短时间内就可以穿越孟加拉湾海盆,使得海洋温跃层在短时间内完成了对Rossby波的响应,保证了上层海洋满足准静止的Sverdrup平衡.在夏季(冬季)西南(东北)季风驱动下,上层海洋分别在孟加拉湾北部和南部形成气旋(反气旋)式和反气旋(气旋)式环流.     

珊瑚礁礁坪宽度对波浪传播变形及增水影响的实验研究

通过在波浪水槽中进行一系列物理模型实验, 研究珊瑚礁礁坪宽度变化对珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪传播变形及礁坪上波浪增水的影响。物理实验采用理想化的珊瑚礁模型, 测试了3种礁坪宽度下的一系列不规则波工况。实验结果分析表明: 波浪沿礁传播过程中, 短波持续衰减; 低频长波波高沿礁逐渐增大, 直到海岸线附近达到最大; 随着礁坪宽度的增加, 海岸线附近的短波波高呈下降趋势, 低频长波波高的变化规律不显著; 礁坪上的波浪增水受礁坪宽度变化的影响不明显; 通过对海岸线附近的波浪进行频谱分析发现, 礁坪上低频长波的运动存在着一阶共振模式, 且共振放大效应强度受礁坪水深、入射波峰周期和礁坪宽度共同影响。     

Numerical modelling of the propagation of tsunami waves in the crimean peninsula shelf zone

The paper analyses the effect of non-linearity and bottom friction on propagation of tsunami-type surface waves from the abyssal part of the Black Sea towards the shelf zone. The study relies, on numerical solution of unidimensional non-linear equations for long waves, using the finite-difference technique. Numerical experiments have been conducted for the bottom profile continental slope and shelf, with the full wave reflection being prescribed at a 10-m depth contour. It has been shown that the major role in transforming solitary waves belongs to non-linear topographic factors rather than to dissipation. The reflected wave has been found to be non-linearly distorted, and wave heights in the Black Sea coastal zone have been found to increase by many times. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Effect of stratification on long period trapped waves on the shelf

The effect of stratification on very long-period waves trapped on a straight continental shelf of constant depth is examined for a two-layer model. There are 4 modes in this system. The characteristics of the mode with the largest phase velocity can be approximated by the barotropic mode. The mode corresponding to the barotropic shelf-wave mode is modified by the baroclinic motions significantly, and in the limit of very narrow shelf width, the mode characteristics are transformed from those of the barotropic shelf-wave to the baroclinic Kelvin wave if the long-shore wave length is larger than the internal deformation radius. In this case, the stratification has an apparent effect of increasing phase velocity of barotropic shelf-waves. The remaining two modes are dominated by baroclinic motions with significant contribution from barotropic motions: among which the one has a shelf-wave characteristics for small values of the shelf width and approaches the mode corresponding to the baroclinic Kelvin wave in shallower water for large shelf width and the other is a stationary mode. If the long-shore wave length is much shorter than the internal deformation radius, the motions in the upper and lower layers are decoupled: the surface and bottom modes analogous to those discussed byRhines (1970) appears.If the interface is deeper than the shelf depth, the stationary mode is absent and the characteristics of the third mode approaches those of the baroclinic double Kelvin wave mode as the shelf width increases.     

Onset of coastal upwelling in a two-layer ocean by wind stress with longshore variation

On the assumption that motions of the barotropic mode are horizontally nondivergent, action of the wind stress with longshore variation on a two-layer ocean adjacent to the meridional east coast is studied. Only the equatorward wind stress is considered. Along the east coast, upwelling is induced by the direct effect of the coast and is confined in a narrow strip with the width of the order of the internal radius of deformation. The upwelling propagates poleward with the internal gravity wave speed. Coastal upwelling induced by the wind stress with longshore variation may be interpreted as the generation and propagation of internal Kelvin waves. Associated with the coastal upwelling, the equatorward flow in the upper layer and the poleward flow in the lower layer are formed as an internal mode of motions. When the bottom topography with the continental shelf and slope is taken into account, occurrence of the poleward undercurrent is delayed by a few days because of the generation of continental shelf waves. And, after the forcing is stopped, the shelf waves propagate poleward away from the upwelling region and the poleward undercurrent fully develops. At the margin of the continental shelf, another upwelling region is induced and propagates poleward.     

Scattering of Semidiurnal Internal Kelvin Wave at Step Bottom Topography

A three-dimensional, multi-level model was used to study the energy dissipation of semidiurnal internal Kelvin waves due to their interaction with bottom topography. A simplified topography consisting of a channel with an additional shallow bay was used to clarify the wave’s scattering process. When the first mode semidiurnal internal wave given at an open boundary arrives at the bay mouth, higher-mode internal waves are generated at a step bottom of the bay mouth. As a result, the energy of the first mode internal Kelvin wave is effectively decayed. The decay rate of the internal Kelvin wave depends on both the width and length of the additional bay. The maximum decay rate was found when a resonance condition occurs the bay, that is, the bay length is equal to a quarter of wave length of the first mode internal wave on the shallow region. The decay rate in the wide bay cases is higher than that in a narrow case, due to a contribution from the scattering due to the Poincare wave that emanates from the corners of the bay head. The decay rate with the additional bay is 1.1–1.8 times that of the case without the additional bay. The decay rate due to the scattering process is found to be of the same order as that of the internal and bottom friction.     

Coastal trapped waves in a two-layer ocean: Wave properties when the density interface intersects a sloping bottom

Properties of coastal trapped waves when the pycnocline intersects a sloping bottom are studied using a two-layer model which has slopes in both layers. In this system there is an infinite discrete sequence of modes, and four different sorts of waves exist: the barotropic Kelvin wave, the upper shelf wave, the lower shelf wave and the internal Kelvin-type wave. They all propagate with the coast to their right in the Northern Hemisphere. The upper and lower shelf waves are due to the topographic-effect on the upper-layer and lower-layer slopes, respectively. Their motions are dominant in the respective layers being accompanied by significant interface elevations. The properties of the upper (lower) shelf wave are almost unaffected by the existence of a lower-layer (upper-layer) slope. The motion of the internal Kelvin-type wave is confined to the region around the line where the density interface intersects the bottom slope.The modes, except that with the fastest phase speed (the barotropic Kelvin wave), are assigned mode numbers in order of descending frequency. Characteristics of Mode 1 change with wavenumber; the upper shelf wave for small wavenumbers and the internal Kelvin-type wave for large wavenumbers (high frequencies). The higher modes of Mode 2 and above can be classified into the upper and lower shelf waves.     

Generation of internal waves by a barotropic tide in the coastal zone

Within the framework of the linear theory of long waves, we study internal waves generated by a barotropic tide in a two-layer ocean of variable depth taking into account the influence of the Coriolis force. Barotropic waves run over an extended unevenness of the bottom at an arbitrary angle. This unevenness is regarded as a model of the continental slope and shelf. We establish the dependences of the amplitudes of generated internal waves on the angle of incidence of the barotropic tide, topography of the bottom, and stratification. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Effects of longshore shelf variations on barotropic continental shelf waves,slope currents and ocean modes

Effects of continental shelf bends, converging depth contours and changing depth profiles are discussed. Some analysis is carried out for previously unstudied cases. Separate oceanic interior and shelf flow problems are formulated for a sufficiently narrow shelf. The ocean interior ‘sees’ only an integrated shelf effect, typically increasing shelf-edge amplitudes, retarding longshore Kelvin-wave propagation and increasing natural mode periods by 0 (10%). On the local shelf, the flow matches to the ocean interior and is nondivergent. Effects on shelf waves and slope currents depend subtly on the nature of the longshore variations. Curvature and contour convergence do not per se imply scaterring or generation of shelf waves. Indeed, any depth h(ξ) where ▽² ξ(x,y) = 0 (a condition approximating longshelf uniformity in the topography's convexity) supports essentially the same shelf waves as do straight depth contours (DAVIS, 1983), and slope currents follow depth contours. Scattering results rather from breaks in analyticity of the depth profile. Hence calculations for small isolated features (necessarily highly convex or concave) may overestimate scattering, and superposition for realistic topography may lead to much self-cancellation among scattered waves. Otherwise, examples show a strong preference for scattering into adjacent mode numbers and into any shelf wave mode near to its maximum frequency. A shelf sector, where the maximum shelf wave frequency maxω is less than the frequency ω of an incident shelf wave, causes substantial scattering unless maxω and ω are very close. Adjustment of slope currents to changed conditions takes place through (and over the decay distance of) scattered shelf waves.     

Far fields of internal gravity waves in a stratified liquid of varying depth

Asymptotic representations of solutions describing the far fields of internal gravity waves in a stratified medium of varying depth are constructed. The effect of space-frequency cutoff of the wave field for a real oceanic shelf is revealed. Depending on frequency characteristics of the wave field and bottom topography, far fields of internal waves either are located in a certain confined space domain (trapped waves) or propagate in the absence of turning points over sufficiently large distances when compared with the sea depth (progressive waves). The space domain where the progressive waves penetrate is fully determined by the presence of turning points whose locations depend on the medium stratification and inhomogeneities of bottom topography.     

斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征研究

次重力波在近岸水动力运动过程中起到重要作用,深入地了解次重力波对预防其引发的近岸灾害有着重要意义。结合波浪现场观测方法和数值模拟方法研究了斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征。短波和自由次重力波通过海浪谱模型WAVEWATCH III模拟,而约束次重力波通过二阶非线性理论模拟,数值模拟结果与现场观测结果对比吻合良好。研究结果表明,斯里兰卡南部海域大部分时间以自由次重力波为主;在强涌浪海况下（短波波高大于2.5 m,周期大于15 s）约束次重力波逐渐逼近自由次重力波甚至占主导地位;斯里兰卡大陆架极其狭窄,对涌浪的能量损耗作用极为有限,使得近岸面对强劲的涌浪及其伴生的次重力波的侵袭,增大了次重力波引发近岸水动力灾害的风险。