Modeling interrelationships between morphological evolution and grain-size trends in back-barrier tidal basins of the East Frisian Wadden Sea

In terms of grain size, surficial sediment distribution patterns in back-barrier tidal basins (e.g., the East Frisian Wadden Sea, Germany) often show a landward fining trend from the sea boundary to the mainland shore. In addition to the cross-shore patterns, there are lateral grain-size trends toward the watersheds of the basins and toward the watersheds of tidal flats bordered by tidal channels on either side. In the present study, interrelationships between morphological evolution and grain-size trends in the back-barrier tidal basins of the East Frisian Wadden Sea were simulated for a period of 60 years by a process-based forward modeling approach using the Delft3D system. The model outputs show that grain size displays a shoreward fining trend within the basin area, which is consistent with in situ observations; such a trend can be interpreted by the shoreward decrease in the cross-shore maximum velocity. Moreover, the model predicts lateral grain-size trends similar to those observed in the tidal basins: coarser sediment remains in the inlets and channels, while finer sediment settles at the tidal watersheds and on the tidal flats between channels. The spatial patterns of tidal flat sediment grain size within the tidal basins are thus related to the distance from the sea boundary and from the tidal channels. The modeling exercise also indicates that the development of the grain-size pattern observed in the East Frisian Wadden Sea is accomplished within a few decades, and that the time periods required to reach equilibrium are much shorter for grain size than for bed elevation. Evidently, spatial grain-size information can be used to assess sediment transport and morphological adaptation processes as, for example, attempted in sediment trend analysis procedures.     

河口潮滩地貌和沉积物对人类工程的响应特征

河口潮滩受径潮流的共同作用,在自然环境与人类活动的影响下处于不断的动态调整中,其中大型人类工程往往对其短期地貌变化和沉积物特征产生巨大影响。2013年底至2014年5月,长江口崇明东滩北部开展大规模互花米草治理工程,本文基于地面三维激光扫描技术、植被点云数据滤除算法、沉积物取样以及室内粒度分析等手段,对比了工程前后潮滩地貌与沉积物特征。研究发现:（1）完工后研究区域靠海及南侧区域出现明显冲刷,北侧虽出现淤积,但整个区域平均冲刷幅度仍达4 cm;（2）工程前研究区域沉积物平均中值粒径为29 μm,工程完工后沉积物平均中值粒径则增大到38 μm;（3）工程完工后沉积物靠海及南侧区域明显粗化,北侧沉积物则变细。结果表明,围垦工程会造成邻近潮滩大幅冲刷以及表层沉积物粗化,但潮滩不同区域地貌和沉积物特征对工程的响应仍存在空间差异性。研究揭示尽管河口潮滩长期演变过程受流域来沙条件影响,但围垦工程等局部影响因素会短期内显著改变潮滩动力地貌过程。     

互花米草对江苏潮滩沉积和地貌演化的影响

江苏潮滩面积大,岸滩冲淤动态变化复杂.人工引种互花米草对江苏海岸潮滩沉积地貌演化有较大影响,主要体现在影响潮滩沉积速率、物质分布及潮水沟地貌系统的发育等方面.根据定点站位不同年代的高程数据,分析Pethick-Allen模型在江苏潮滩盐沼的适用性;在现场采集柱状样并在室内进行137Cs分析,根据分析结果及前人研究结果,利用P-A模型分析计算江苏潮滩不同时期的沉积速率,结果表明互花米草的引种加快了潮滩沉积速率,它使潮滩沉积地貌演化脱离了原来的渐进函数关系.在选择的典型断面上采集表层底质样,在激光粒度仪上进行粒度分析,结果表明,互花米草易使细颗粒沉积物沉积,大米草滩和盐蒿滩表层沉积物主要来自潮水沟输送.根据野外调查并结合遥感分析,互花米草滩内潮水沟宽深比小,密度大,水道稳定,有别于光滩或大米草滩的潮水沟形态.     

Impact of the cord-grass Spartina alterniflora on sedimentary and morphological evolution of tidal salt marshes on the Jiangsu coast, China

1Introduction Asanimportantcomponentofthecoastalsys tem,tidalflatsareformedbytidalactionunderthe conditionofabundantfine grainedsedimentsupply;theybecomeafocusofthestudyonland oceaninter actioninthecoastalzonebecausetheseareasare subjectedtointensehumanac…     

Expected changes in the benthic fauna of Wadden Sea tidal flats as a result of sea-level rise or bottom subsidence

In different parts of the Dutch Wadden Sea, relationships between intertidal level and abundance of marine macrozoobenthos were similar. Numerical densities, biomass and species richness increased from values close to 0 at the high-water level to maximum values around mean-tide level (numbers) or halfway between this level and low-tide level (biomass). Species richness hardly declined below mean-tide level, whereas mean weight per individual continued to increase from high- to low-water level.Biomass was about 45 g ash-free dry weight per m² at its maximum and declined in an approximately linear way to values close to 0 at the high-water level and to about 7 g per m² at the low-water level. These two linear relationships were used to predict biomass changes on intertidal flats of the Wadden Sea at various scenarios of sea-level rise and bottom subsidence. Net sea-level rise is expected to result in increased amounts of intertidal zoobenthos in areas with predominantly high tidal flats, but in declines in lower areas. However, such changes will occur only if sea-level rise proceeds too fast to be compensated by extra sedimentation. Bottom subsidence as a consequence of gas extraction is expected to be too small to cause any measurable change in the benthic fauna.     

江苏海岸带盐沼潮滩在小尺度下的沉积变化过程

在小尺度范围内,潮滩沉积的研究一般都是基于几个站位或断面进行短时日的调查和监测来获取数据,或多或少地存在数据的连续性不足等问题。基于此,本文在潮滩地貌典型的江苏平原海岸选取了约160 000 m²的盐沼潮滩作为研究对象,在多年的野外连续观测下,分析了人类围垦活动对盐沼潮滩沉积过程及变化的影响。结果表明：人类围垦活动（如堤坝建设等）对潮滩沉积和盐沼植被覆盖的变化有重要影响。围垦堤坝修建之前,研究区向陆一侧为盐沼植物（现为养殖池）,向海一侧为光滩,岸线形态比较平直。在2006年围垦堤坝修建后,研究区变为“凹岸”型的人工岸线,沉积环境变得更有利于泥沙的淤积。根据2007-2012年对滩面高程的野外观测,在风暴潮的影响下,潮滩最大淤积率高达23 cm/a。盐沼植被在泥沙快速淤积的基础上不断发育生长,盐沼植物覆盖面积不断扩张。同时外部的沙嘴也在不断增长,潮汐风浪侵蚀携带沙嘴外部泥沙进入盐沼滩地,盐沼植物在泥沙的覆盖下,出现萎缩退化,覆盖面积减少,但是对潮滩上的泥沙而言还是不断堆积增厚。柱状样岩芯的粒度垂向剖面特征也记录了盐沼潮滩沉积环境的变化。小尺度下盐沼潮滩沉积表现出的阶段性变化规律,揭示出合理的围垦活动有利于堤坝前的潮滩淤积和盐沼植被的扩张。     

长江口潮间带沉积对台风过程的响应

位于陆海交汇区的河口潮滩对台风作用的响应极为敏感.台风大浪极可能构成河口潮滩沉积过程的快速变化,进而不利于潮滩保护、开发及利用.基于此,本文利用200509号"麦莎"台风作用前后长江口南汇潮滩采集的沉积物样品及水文资料,探讨台风高能事件作用下河口潮滩动力沉积过程及其主控因素.结果表明长江口潮间带不同区域沉积作用对于"麦...     

A simple model for estimating current velocity in tidal inlets: example from Grådyb in the Danish Wadden Sea

A simple zero-dimensional model relating water-level measurements inside a tidal basin to current velocity in the inlet has been formulated and calibrated for the tidal inlet Grådyb in the Danish Wadden Sea. The model combines a dynamical and a continuity-based approach, and predicts velocity in the inlet with a high correlation between measured and calculated current velocities (R ²=0.94), when tested on the basis of an independent dataset. Once calibrated, the model requires only a minimum of input data (water level and water-level variation in time). It is therefore well suited to bridge the gap between discrete velocity observations (e.g. ADCP profiles used to evaluate the dynamics of an inlet prior to other observations of, amongst others, bedform behaviour) and longer time series of inlet dynamics, and this with a minimum of cpu-time.     

Observations of some sedimentary processes acting on a tidal flat

In order to examine sedimentary processes acting on tidal flats, eighteen foot valves were “plumbed” into a small tidal cove in southern New Hampshire. Transport of suspended sediment was determined by comparing concentrations (determined by filtering) at 15 and 30 cm above the tidal flats throughout a tidal cycle. In general, sediment resuspension occurs more readily on the flood tide than the ebb. The concentration of suspended sediment follows the water mass distribution and is affected to a lesser degree by tidal currents and small amplitude waves. Deposition occurs during slack water shortly after high tide primarily in the bottom regime (15 cm); it is probably related to coarser particle sedimentation. The water mass distribution was not a simple rise and fall perpendicular to the bottom contours, but rather followed a slow clockwise gyre. The net effect on the suspended sediments was to impart a “longshore” component of drift to the suspended load during the tidal cycle.     

Sedimentation and morphological changes at Yuantuojiao Point,estuary of the North Branch,Changjiang River

The North Branch, separated by the Chongming Island, was once the main channel in the estuary of the Changjiang River. Reclamation and a decrease in runoff to the North Branch had led to the narrowing and shallowing of the channel. The Yuantuojiao Point is located at the intersecting point connecting the North Branch of the Changjiang River and the Jiangsu coastline. Erosion cliffs are developed between the typical silty-muddy tidal flat and the salt marsh occupied by Spartina alterniflorea, and this has changed rapidly over the past few years. The sediment grain size analysis results of the surficial and two core samples indicate that the Yuantuojiao Point tidal flat experienced continuous accretional processes. Based upon 137 Cs analysis results of the YT and YY Cores sampled from the tidal flat at the Yuantuojiao Point, the average sedimentation rate of the YT Core was 2.30 cm/a from 1963 to 2007, and 2.38 cm/a from 1954 to 2007 for the YY Core. The sedimentation rates of both core locations have declined since the 1960s corresponding to the seaward reclamation at the Yuantuojiao Point. The average sedimentation rates at the Yuantuojiao Point were similar to that of the silty-muddy tidal flat at the northern Jiangsu coast, but lower than that of the south of the Changjiang River Estuary. According to field morphological investigations from 2006 to 2008 on the salt marsh at the Yuantuojiao Point, cliffs retreated markedly by storm surges and disappeared gradually because of the rapid sedimentation on the silty-muddy tidal flat. The maximum annual retreat reached 10 m. The recent sedimentation and morphological changes of the Yuantuojiao Point tidal flat not only displayed the retreat of the salt marsh and the disappearance of cliffs, but also was accompanied by rapid sedimentation of the silty-muddy tidal flat and the salt marsh, indicating the responses to the tidal currents, storm surges, Spartina alterniflorea trapping sediments and large-scale reclamation. The sediment grain size and their trends, southward coastal flow, and sandspits of the longshore bars suggest that the main sediment source at the Yuantuoijao Point, estuary of the North Branch was possibly from the Changjiang River before 1958, since then, it has been from the south of the submarine radial sand ridges of the southern Huanghai Sea (Yellow Sea).     

淤泥质潮滩潮锋的形成机制及其作用

根据１９７９－１９９２年不同类型淤 质潮滩张潮前锋水沙观测资料,结合潮锋作用沿滩面上溯的强度变化进行分析,结果表明,涨潮前犹存在水流加速过程是潮锋作用的本质,其出现前提是滩面的宽展平缓,而潮位变化速率过程测定了潮和强度对 时空变化。     

象山港潮滩坡度对潮动力影响的数值研究

象山港属于狭长型半封闭港湾,湾内分布有大面积潮滩。多年以来象山港内实施了大量海岸工程及养殖工程,湾内潮滩坡度发生了显著变化。基于非结构网格和有限体积数值模式（FVCOM）建立象山港三维潮动力模型,研究湾内不同区域潮滩坡度变化对象山港潮动力过程的影响机理。结果表明：潮滩坡度下降将增大湾内纳潮量,进而增大M2分潮振幅和迟角,反之则反。铁港潮滩坡度的减小（增大）,将改变底部耗散项,进而增大（减小）M4分潮振幅。由于M2和M4分潮的振幅在湾顶较大,所以湾顶（铁港）潮滩坡度对象山港潮动力过程的影响明显大于侧岸（西沪港）。西沪港潮滩坡度对象山港潮动力过程的影响是局部的。铁港、西沪港潮滩坡度对湾内潮汐不对称、余流及潮能影响显著。铁港潮滩坡度的改变均会减弱湾内落潮占优程度。西沪港区域潮滩坡度的减小将减弱湾内落潮占优趋势,反之则反。铁港和西沪港潮滩坡度的减小,将增大余流大小及潮能密度,进而潮能耗散增大,反之则反。研究结果对河口海岸潮滩区域的工程建设及生态修复有重要参考价值。     

长江口潮沼植物对动力沉积过程的影响

为探讨潮沼植物对动力沉积过程的影响,在长江口南汇东滩沼泽和邻近的光滩上进行了近底层流速、波浪、悬沙浓度、沉积物粒径和滩面淤积速率等对比实验,并在九段沙潮沼中做了两种先锋植物黏附悬沙的实验.结果表明,沼泽和同高程的邻近光滩近底层平均流速的比值为0.16～0.84;两种环境平均波周期、平均波高和平均悬沙浓度的比值分别为1.4,0.43,和0.71.波浪传入沼泽后,一方面波高大大降低,另一方面变得规则有序.海三棱草和草两种先锋植物群落黏附的悬沙分别达到298和40g/m2.由于水动力降低和植物的捕沙功能,细颗粒泥沙易于在沼泽中沉积下来,导致沼泽环境沉积物明显较相邻光滩细;沼泽中沉积速率加快,侵蚀受到抑制.     

Topographic Mapping of Offshore Sandbank Tidal Flats Using the Waterline Detection Method: A Case Study on the Dongsha Sandbank of Jiangsu Radial Tidal Sand Ridges,China

The waterline detection method (WDM) based on satellite images is one of the most effective methods for constructing digital elevation models (DEMs) for tidal flats. The general practicability of the WDM has been demonstrated in previous studies for small areas. This article attempts to generate a DEM over a large offshore sandbank with a tidal flat area of more than 620 km² by integrating the conventional WDM with a hydraulic model and multitemporal satellite images. For illustration purposes, a case study was conducted at the Dongsha sandbank, one of the largest sandbanks among the radial tidal sand ridges of Jiangsu Province, China. In this study, 34 multitemporal satellite images acquired at different tidal phases in 2006 were analyzed to detect the waterlines. The water level at each satellite overpass moment was simulated by a south Yellow Sea hydraulic model, and discrete waterline points were combined with the corresponding water levels to produce a topographic map. Compared with the DEM produced during the same period by the airborne light detection and ranging (LiDAR) data, the DEM derived from WDM effectively contains the average height error within 47 cm, which is satisfactory. All of these findings may be useful for researchers and local authorities, as the findings could be used as a reference for sandbank evolution research or to support environmental management, coast protection, and storm forecasting.     

莱州湾西岸岸滩冲淤特征分析

利用风暴潮前后潮滩剖面的实测对比及不同时期地形图和卫星遥感影像解译分析,研究了莱州湾西岸海滩冲淤变化特征。结果表明,莱州湾西岸海滩中、高潮滩处于相对稳定状况,低潮滩呈现弱淤积的特征。岸线50多年来的总体变化特征是1986年以前岸线淤进蚀退变化较明显,1986年以来海岸线逐渐趋于稳定。分析表明,岸滩变化的原因主要为人类活动对岸滩形态的改造以及大风暴潮的影响。     

长江口的台风浪及其对崇明东滩的冲淤作用

本文分析了多年的台风和波浪资料得到如下的结果:对崇明东滩有较大影响的台风路径主要有两类:即在浙江中部至长江口登陆的台风和在长江口外侧海域转向北上的台风;佘山岛海洋站百年一遇的最大波高为5.6m;台风期间偏北、东北、东南的强风向均能引起长江口较大的增水现象。 本文还以8310号台风为例,阐明了台风前后的冲淤变化及台风浪塑造的滩地地貌形态。指出东旺沙和北八效高潮滩冲淤甚微,中低潮滩冲刷严重,奚东沙高潮滩冲刷严重,中低潮滩呈微淤状态。波浪对东滩塑造的主要地貌形态有冲刷坑和浪蚀泥坎。     

Modelled channel patterns in a schematized tidal inlet

Tidal inlets in the Dutch Wadden Sea show typical morphological features, i.e. westward oriented main inlet channel and ebb-tidal delta. The objective of this study is to find the governing physical processes of these morphological features. The study uses a 2DH process-based morphodynamic model (Delft3D) on a schematized model domain, with dimensions similar to the Ameland inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea.Starting from a flat bed the models are forced by tides only. Short-term simulations are made to explore the hydrodynamic characteristics and initial sedimentation and erosion patterns. Long-term morphodynamic simulations are employed to investigate the governing parameters of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta evolution. Sensitivity of the evolution is described in terms of initial inlet width (1.0 km and 3.5 km), direction and asymmetry of tidal forcing (M₂, M₄), transport formulations (Van Rijn, 1993; Engelund and Hansen, 1967) and relative position of the tidal basin with respect to the inlet (East (existing), Middle, and West).The results tend to produce morphological features typical to the Ameland inlet. The direction of tidal forcing is the main governing parameter to the present orientation of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta. The model results generally prove the conceptual hypotheses that describe the orientation of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta.     

长江河口拦门沙河段滩涂演化特征及驱动机制

利用长江河口实测1958-2013年水下地形数据,基于ArcGIS技术和DSAS软件分析了拦门沙河段滩涂演化特征,在此基础上结合河口重大工程建设、流域来沙状态对滩涂资源的变化机制进行分析。研究结果表明:(1)1958-2013年,长江河口滩涂资源总量略有下降,但最近十年趋于稳定,维持在2 350km2左右。(2)长江河口潮滩-5m等深线以下已经出现侵蚀,垂向侵蚀速率为达7.3cm/a;(3)近10多年流域来沙剧烈下降对潮下带0~-5m区域的滩涂资源淤涨产生了显著负面影响,而河口重大工程建设则是近年来0m以上滩涂逆势增长的主要驱动因素。     

Water-level fluctuations, emersion regimes, and variations of echinoid populations on a Caribbean reef flat

This paper examines fluctuations in water level over a Caribbean reef flat at Punta Galeta, Panamá. In an analysis of approximately ten years of records, the mean diurnal range of the tides was 24·5 cm and varied <2 cm from year to year. Daily mean water levels varied erratically over a range of approximately 30 cm. Monthly mean water levels fluctuated seasonally over a range of about 10 cm and were consistently higher than those at the regional tidal reference station at Cristóbal. On days with more wave action, water levels at Galeta increased relative to those at Cristóbal, suggesting that waves were ‘pumping’ water onto the reef flat. The monthly mean water levels at the two sites were not correlated, indicating that tidal data from conventional stations in deeper water cannot be extrapolated to reef flats, except as estimates of minimum potential water levels.Most of the reef flat was within 6 cm vertical span just below mean lower low water. The highest elevations within this range were exposed above water level for an average of 918 hours per year, as compared with 144 hours per year at the lowest elevation. Most exposures lasted less than 10 hours, with a modal duration of 3–5 hours; however, exposures longer than 12 hours occurred at nearly all elevations in all years. Exposures of the reef flat were most frequent between February and June and between August and November, a pattern apparently caused by a combination of seasonal oscillations of regional sea levels, the annual pattern of the solstitial tides, and waves generated by seasonal trade winds.The fluctuations in water levels apparently affected the abundances of some species of sea urchins on the reef flat. Populations of Lytechinus variegatus and Diadema antillarum declined or disappeared from the reef flat during seasons of repeated subaerial exposures, but recolonized the habitat in periods of higher water levels. Although they are reported to suffer heavy mortality during emersion, Echinometra lucunter and E. viridis did not exhibit reductions in abundance that were synchronous with the seasonal exposures of the reef flat.     

滩涂湿地围垦前后服务功能的效益分析--以上虞市世纪丘滩涂为例

在详细分析滩涂湿地服务功能的基础之上,评估了上虞市世纪丘滩涂围垦前、后服务功能的效益及其变化。结果表明,滩涂围垦前,生态环境功能效益与社会经济功能效益分别占总效益的95％和5％,主要表现在提供生物栖息地与水文调节方面;滩涂围垦后,生态环境功能效益下降了63％,而社会经济功能效益则增加了30倍,主要表现在提供大量的动植物产品方面;此外,围垦后,其服务功能类型的多样性有所减少,但服务功能的总效益有所增加。