A spectral barotropic model of the wind-driven world ocean

A global spectral barotropic ocean model is introduced to describe the depth-averaged flow. The equations are based on vorticity and divergence (instead of horizontal momentum); continents exert a nearly infinite drag on the fluid. The coding follows that of spectral atmospheric general circulation models using triangular truncation and implicit time integration to provide a first step for seamless coupling to spectral atmospheric global circulation models and an efficient method for filtering of ocean wave dynamics. Five experiments demonstrate the model performance: (i) Bounded by an idealized basin geometry and driven by a zonally uniform wind stress, the ocean circulation shows close similarity with Munk’s analytical solution. (ii) With a real land–sea mask the model is capable of reproducing the spin-up, location and magnitudes of depth-averaged barotropic ocean currents. (iii) The ocean wave-dynamics of equatorial waves, excited by a height perturbation at the equator, shows wave dispersion and reflection at eastern and western coastal boundaries. (iv) The model reproduces propagation times of observed surface gravity waves in the Pacific with real bathymetry. (v) Advection of tracers can be simulated reasonably by the spectral method or a semi-Langrangian transport scheme. This spectral barotropic model may serve as a first step towards an intermediate complexity spectral atmosphere–ocean model for studying atmosphere–ocean interactions in idealized setups and long term climate variability beyond millennia.     

Coastal-Trapped Waves with Several-Day Period Caused by Wind along the Southeast Coast of Honshu, Japan

Generation and propagation of several-day period fluctuations along the southeast coast of Honshu, Japan, were investigated by analyzing sea level data and by using a numerical model. The sea level data obtained at twelve stations from Choshi to Omaezaki in fall in 1991, showed energy peaks at the 3–6 day period at the eastern stations in this coast. Time lags of the 3–6 day period fluctuations between station and station indicate westward propagation along the coast. However, the energy level of the 3–6 day period fluctuations suddenly decreased south of the Izu Peninsula. Numerical experiments using a two-layer model were performed to clarify the generation and propagation mechanism of the several-day period fluctuations by periodical wind in fall. The amplitude distributions of observed sea level were qualitatively explained by a coastal-trapped wave (CTW) in the numerical experiment. From the discussions on propagation of a free wave, CTW with the characteristics of a shelf wave generated by the wind along the northeast of the Boso Peninsula was separated into two types of wave at the southeast of the peninsula. One is an internal Kelvin wave with large interface displacement and the other is the shelf wave propagating over the northern part of the Izu Ridge. The sudden decrease in the surface displacement with the 3–6 day period observed at the western stations is considered to be due to the local effect of the wind and phase relation between the internal Kelvin wave and shelf wave.     

The Rossby wave as a key mechanism of Indian Ocean climate variability

We analyze the time-longitude structure of composite cases from model-assimilated ocean data in the period 1958–1998, following on from earlier work by Huang and Kinter (J. Geophys. Res. 107(C11) (2002) 3199) that studied east–west thermocline variability in the Indian Ocean. Our analysis focuses on the Rossby wave signal along the thermocline ridge in the tropical SW Indian Ocean (10°S, 60–80°E), where wind stress curl is important. Anomalous winds in the equatorial east Indian Ocean force successive Rossby waves westward at speeds of 0.1 m s⁻¹±30%. With a wavelength of 7000 km, the period of oscillation is in the range 1.9–5.2 years. The Indian Ocean Rossby wave is partially resonant with the global influence of the El Nino–Southern Oscillation, except during quasi-biennial rhythm. The presence of the Rossby wave offers potential predictability for east–west atmospheric circulation systems and climate that affect resources in countries surrounding the Indian Ocean.     

Investigating the impact of surface wave breaking on modeling the trajectories of drifters in the northern Adriatic Sea during a wind-storm event

An accurate numerical prediction of the oceanic upper layer velocity is a demanding requirement for many applications at sea and is a function of several near-surface processes that need to be incorporated in a numerical model. Among them, we assess the effects of vertical resolution, different vertical mixing parameterization (the so-called Generic Length Scale –GLS– set of k–ε, k–ω, gen, and the Mellor–Yamada), and surface roughness values on turbulent kinetic energy (k) injection from breaking waves.First, we modified the GLS turbulence closure formulation in the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) to incorporate the surface flux of turbulent kinetic energy due to wave breaking. Then, we applied the model to idealized test cases, exploring the sensitivity to the above mentioned factors. Last, the model was applied to a realistic situation in the Adriatic Sea driven by numerical meteorological forcings and river discharges. In this case, numerical drifters were released during an intense episode of Bora winds that occurred in mid-February 2003, and their trajectories compared to the displacement of satellite-tracked drifters deployed during the ADRIA02-03 sea-truth campaign.Results indicted that the inclusion of the wave breaking process helps improve the accuracy of the numerical simulations, subject to an increase in the typical value of the surface roughness z₀. Specifically, the best performance was obtained using α_CH = 56,000 in the Charnok formula, the wave breaking parameterization activated, k–ε as the turbulence closure model. With these options, the relative error with respect to the average distance of the drifter was about 25% (5.5 km/day). The most sensitive factors in the model were found to be the value of α_CH enhanced with respect to a standard value, followed by the adoption of wave breaking parameterization and the particular turbulence closure model selected.     

3-D Shear Wave Velocity Structure of the Crust and Upper Mantle in South China Sea and its Surrounding Regions by Surface Wave Dispersion Analysis

In this study, we construct a 3-D shear wave velocity structure of the crust and upper mantle in South China Sea and its surrounding regions by surface wave dispersion analysis. We use the multiple filter technique to calculate the group velocity dispersion curves of fundamental mode Rayleigh and Love waves with periods from 14 s to 120 s for earthquakes occurred around the Southeast Asia. We divide the study region (80° E–140° E, 16° S–32° N) into 3° × 3° blocks and use the constrained block inversion method to get the regionalized dispersion curve for each block. At some chosen periods, we put together laterally the regionalized group velocities from different blocks at the same period to get group velocity image maps. These maps show that there is significant heterogeneity in the group velocity of the study region. The dispersion curve of each block was then processed by surface wave inversion method to obtain the shear wave velocity structure. Finally, we put the shear wave velocity structures of all the blocks together to obtain the three-dimensional shear wave velocity structure of crust and upper mantle. The three-dimensional shear wave velocity structure shows that the shear wave velocity distribution in the crust and upper mantle of the South China Sea and its surrounding regions displays significant heterogeneity. There are significant differences among the crustal thickness, the lithospheric thickness and the shear wave velocity of the lid in upper mantle of different structure units. This study shows that the South China Sea Basin, southeast Sulu Sea Basin and Celebes Sea Basin have thinner crust. The thickness of crust in South China Sea Basin is 5–10 km; in Indochina is 25–40 km; in Peninsular Malaysia is 30–35 km; in Borneo is 30–35 km; in Palawan is 35 km; in the Philippine Islands is 30–35 km, in Sunda Shelf is 30–35 km, in Southeast China is 30–40 km, in West Philippine Basin is 5–10 km. The South China Sea Basin has a lithosphere with thickness of about 45–50 km, and the shear wave velocity of its lid is about 4.3–4.7 km/s; Indochina has a lithosphere with thickness of about 55–70 km, and the shear wave velocity of its lid is about 4.3–4.5 km/s; Borneo has a lithosphere with thickness of about 55–60 km, and the shear wave velocity of its lid is about 4.1–4.3 km/s; the Philippine Islands has a lithosphere with thickness of about 55–60 km, and the shear wave velocity of its lid is about 4.2–4.3 km/s, West Philippine Basin has a lithosphere with thickness of about 50–55 km, and the shear wave velocity of its lid is about 4.7–4.8 km/s, Sunda Self has a lithosphere with thickness of about 55–65 km, and the shear wave velocity of its lid is about 4.3 km/s. The Red-River Fault Zone probably penetrates to a depth of at least 200 km and is plausibly the boundary between the South China Block and the Indosinia Block.     

The BCI criterion for the initiation of breaking process in Boussinesq-type equations wave models

The Breaking Celerity Index (BCI) is proposed as a new wave breaking criterion for Boussinesq-type equations wave propagation models (BTE).The BCI effectiveness in determining the breaking initiation location has been verified against data from different experimental investigations conducted with incident regular and irregular waves propagating along uniform slope [Utku, M. (1999). “The Relative Trough Froude Number. A New Criteria for Wave Breaking”. Ph.D. Dissertation, Dept. of Civil and Enviromental Engineering, Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA; Gonsalves Veloso dos Reis, M.T.L. (1992). “Characteristics of waves in the surf zone”. MS Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool., Liverpool; Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2006). “Breaking waves over a mild gravel slope: experimental and numerical analysis”. Journal of Geophysical Research, VOL 111, C11019] and barred beaches [Tomasicchio, G.R., and Sancho, F. (2002). “On wave induced undertow at a barred beach”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 557–569]. The considered experiments were carried out in small-scale and large-scale facilities. In addition, one set of data has been obtained by the use of the COBRAS model based upon the Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations [Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., and Sakakiyama, T. (2000). “A Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions”. Proceedings of Coastal Structures ‘99, Balkema, Rotterdam, 169–174; Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2005). “Numerical simulation based on a RANS model of wave groups on an impermeable slope”. Proceedings of Fifth International Symposium WAVES 2005, Madrid].Numerical simulations have been performed with the 1D-FUNWAVE model [Kirby, J.T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A.B., and Dalrymple, R.A. (1998). “FUNWAVE 1.0 Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model Documentation and User's Manual”. Research Report No CACR-98-06, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark]. With regard to the adopted experimental conditions, the breaking location has been calculated for different trigger mechanisms [Zelt, J.A. (1991). “The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves”. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205–246; Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T., and Dalrymple, R.A. (2000). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and run-up. I: 1D”. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39–47; Utku, M., and Basco, D.R. (2002). “A new criteria for wave breaking based on the Relative Trough Froude Number”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 258–268] including the proposed BCI.The calculations have shown that BCI gives a better agreement with the physical data with respect to the other trigger criteria, both for spilling and plunging breaking events, with a not negligible reduction of the calculation time.     

The phase difference effects on 3-D structure of wave pressure acting on a composite breakwater

In designing the coastal structures, the accurate estimation of the wave forces on them is of great importance. In this paper, the influences of the phase difference on wave pressure acting on a composite breakwater installed in the three-dimensional (3-D) wave field are studied numerically. We extend the earlier model [Hur, D.S., Mizutani, N., 2003. Coastal Engineering 47, 329–345] to simulate 3-D wave fields by introducing 3-D Navier–Stokes solver with the Smagorinsky's sub-grid scale (SGS) model. For the validation of the model, the wave field around a 3-D asymmetrical structure installed on a submerged breakwater, in which the complex wave deformations generate, is simulated, and the numerical solutions are compared to the experimental data reported by Hur, Mizutani, Kim [2004. Coastal Engineering (51, 407–420)]. The model is then adopted to investigate 3-D characteristics of wave pressure and force on a caisson of composite breakwater, and the numerical solutions were discussed with respect to the phase difference between harbor and seaward sides induced by the transmitted wave through the rubble mound or the diffraction. The numerical results reveal that wave forces acting on the composite breakwater are significantly different at each cross-section under influence of wave diffraction that is important parameter on 3-D wave interaction with coastal structures.     

Numerical modeling of wave runup and forces on an idealized beachfront house

In this paper, a numerical wave model based on the incompressible Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) and k–ε equations is used to estimate the impact of a solitary wave on an idealized beachfront house located at different elevations on a plane beach. The locations of the free surface are reconstructed by volume of fluid (VOF) method. The model is satisfactorily tested against the experimental data of wave runup, and the analytical solution of wave forces on vertical walls. The time histories of wave profiles, forces, and overturning moments on the idealized house are demonstrated and analyzed. The variations of wave forces and overturning moments with the elevation of the idealized beachfront house are also investigated.     

High-resolution plate reconstruction of the southern Mid-Atlantic Ridge

We use recently acquired magnetic and SeaBeam bathymetric data to examine the spreading rates and plate boundary geometry of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge 30°–36° S. Using a statistically rigorous estimation of rotation poles we develop a precise spreading history of the African—South American plate boundary. The total opening rate for 1–4.23 Myr (Plio-Pleistocene) is nearly constant at 32.3 ± 1 km Myr^–1. The spreading rate apparently is faster in the Late Miocene (7.3-5.3 Myr), though this may reflect inaccuracies in the geomagnetic time scale. The rotation poles enable a plate boundary reconstruction with an accuracy of 2–3 km. The reconstructions also show that the plate boundary geometry underwent several changes since the late Miocene including the growth of one ridge segment from 40 to 105 km in length, and the reorientation of another ridge segment which has spread obliquely from 7 to 1 Myr. Pole calculations using both right- and left-stepping fracture zones show an offset of 1–2 km between the deepest, most linear part of a fracture zone trough and the former plate boundary location. The high-resolution plate kinematics suggests that the plate boundary, as a whole, evolves 2-dimensionally as prescribed by rigid plates. On a local scale, asymmetric accretion, asymmetric extension, small lateral ridge jumps (< 3 km), and intra-segment propagation result in minor plate boundary adjustments and deformation to the rigid plates.     

The evolution of oceanic and atmospheric anomalies in the northeast Pacific during the El Niño and La Niña events of 1995–2001

From late 1995 through early 2001, three major interannual climate events occurred in the tropical Pacific; the 1995–97 La Niña (LN), 1997–98 El Niño (EN), and 1998–2001 LN. We analyze atmospheric and upper oceanic anomalies in the northeast Pacific (NEP) during these events, and compare them to anomalies both elsewhere in the north and tropical Pacific, and to typical EN and LN anomaly patterns. The atmospheric and oceanic anomalies varied strongly on intraseasonal and interannual scales. During the 1995–97 LN and 1997–98 EN, the Northeast Pacific was dominated by negative SLP and cyclonic wind anomalies, and by upper ocean temperature and sea surface height (SSH) anomalies. The latter were positive along the North American west coast and in the NEP thermal anomaly pool (between Hawaii, Vancouver Island, and Baja California), and negative in the central north Pacific. This atmospheric/oceanic anomaly pattern is typical of EN. An eastward shift in the atmospheric teleconnection from east Asia created EN-like anomalies in the NEP during the 1995–97 LN, well before the 1997–98 EN had begun. The persistence of negative sea-level pressure (SLP) and cyclonic wind anomalies in the NEP during the 1997–98 EN intensified pre-existing upper oceanic anomalies. Atmospheric anomalies were shifted eastward during late 1996–early 1998, leading to a similar onshore shift of oceanic anomalies. This produced exceptionally strong positive upper ocean temperature and SSH anomalies along the west coast during the 1997–98 EN, and explains the unusual coastal occurrences of several species of large pelagic warm-water fishes. The growth and eastward shift of these pre-existing anomalies does not appear to have been linked to tropical Pacific EN anomalies until late 1997, when a clear atmospheric teleconnection between the two regions developed. Prior to this, remote atmospheric impacts on the NEP were primarily from east Asia. As the 1998–2001 LN developed, NEP anomalies began reversing toward the typical LN pattern. This led to predominantly negative SLP and cyclonic wind anomalies in the NEP, and upper ocean temperature and SSH anomalies that were mainly negative along the west coast and positive in the central north Pacific. The persistence of these anomalies into mid-2001, and a number of concurrent biological changes in the NEP, suggest that a decadal climate shift may have occurred in late 1998.During 1995–2001, NEP oceanic anomalies tracked the overlying atmospheric anomalies, as indicated by the maintenance of a characteristic spatial relationship between these anomalies. In particular, wind stress curl and SSH anomalies in the NEP maintained an inverse relationship that strengthened and shifted eastward toward the west coast during late 1996–early 1998. This consistent relationship indicates that anomalous Ekman transport driven by regional atmospheric forcing was an important contributor to temperature and SSH anomalies in the NEP and CCS during the 1997–98 EN. Other studies have shown that coastal propagations originating from the tropical Pacific also may have contributed to coastal NEP anomalies during this EN. Our results indicate that at least some of this coastal anomaly signal may have been generated by regional atmospheric forcing within the NEP.     

A new efficient 3D non-hydrostatic free-surface flow model for simulating water wave motions

A new three-dimensional, non-hydrostatic free surface flow model is presented. For simulating water wave motions over uneven bottoms, the model employs an explicit project method on a Cartesian the staggered gird system to solve the complete three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations. A bi-conjugated gradient method with a pre-conditioning procedure is used to solve the resulting matrix system. The model is capable of resolving non-hydrostatic pressure by incorporating the integral method of the top-layer pressure treatment, and predicting wave propagation and interaction over irregular bottom by including a partial bottom-cell treatment. Four examples of surface wave propagation are used to demonstrate the capability of the model. Using a small of vertical layers (e.g. 2–3 layers), it is shown that the model could effectively and accurately resolve wave shoaling, non-linearity, dispersion, fission, refraction, and diffraction phenomena.     

Numerical study of three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in waves and currents

In the present work, a three-dimensional suspended sediment model (SED) is built. A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (COHERENS) and a third-generation wave model (SWAN) are fully coupled through accounting for mutual influences between wave and current in them. SED is combined with the coupled model built up above. Damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS. Then a coupled hydrodynamic–sediment model COHERENS-SED incorporating mutual influences between wave and current is obtained. COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport of Yellow River Delta with wave–current co-existing. The simulated tidal current velocities and suspended sediment concentration match well with field measurement data. The simulated significant wave height and wave period for a case with current's effects can give better agreement with measurement data than a case without current's effects. Numerical simulation results of COHERENS-SED are demonstrated to be reasonable though being compared with previous studies and field measurements [Wang, H., Yang, Z.S., Li, R., Zhang, J., Chang, R., 2001. Numerical modeling of the seabed morphology of the subaqueous Yellow River Delta. International Journal of Sediment Research 16(4), 486–498; Wang, H., 2002. 3-dimensional numerical simulation on the suspended sediment transport from the Huanghe to the Sea. Ph.D. Thesis, Ocean University of China, pp. 12–14 (in Chinese)].     

Reduction of jack-up and crane vessel resistance and bow swamping

A large bow wave forms when blunt-shaped vessels like self-propelled jack-up crane vessels (liftboats) operate at high speeds. Above a critical speed, this bow wave spills over the bow causing swamping. To investigate this phenomena, towing tank tests of a 1/25 scale model liftboat hull were done over a speed range of 3–8 kn. The test showed above 4 kn the bow wave formed and the vessel trimmed by the bow. At speeds above 8 kn the bow wave spilled over the bow (swamping). To cancel this critical bow wave a vertical bow plate was fitted ahead of the liftboat bow. This bow plate reduced the bow wave formation and achieved a 10–15% reduction in the towing resistance. The wave cancellation bow plate can reduce the liftboat power or increase its liftboat speed and operating range.     

The relationship between the amplitudinal characteristics of the high-frequency spectral components of wind-generated waves and the wind velocity over the sea

The relationship between the RMS amplitudes of the wind wave spectral components and the wind speed has been studied at ten frequencies in the band of 0.65–23 Hz. To measure the parameters of the high-frequenci waves, a resistance elevation wave gauge was operated, which was deployed in the Black See on an oceanographic platform near Katsively. The correlation between the wave amplitudes and the wind velocity at high frequencies of 5–23 Hz, corresponding to gravitation-capillary ripples, was found to reach a value of 0.8. At lower frequencies of 0.65–4.3 Hz, corresponding to short gravity waves, it dropped to 0.5–0.7. The response of spectral components to the wind speed variations in the gravity-capillary range is higher than in the range of short gravity waves. The results obtained differ from Phillips' idea about a saturated range for the frequency form of the spectrum of high-frequency gravity waves, since a linear dependence of the spectral amplitudes on the wind speed is established at a wind of force 1–8.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Modeling of coupled tide–wave–surge process in the Yellow Sea

A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been developed in this study in order to investigate the effect of the interactions among tides, storm surges, and wind waves. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress, which is generated by interactions between wind and wave, is calculated by using the WAM model directly based on an analytical approximation of the results using the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes in bottom friction are created by the interactions between waves and currents and calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. In consequence, the combined wave–current-induced bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient were increased in the shallow waters during the strong storm conditions.     

A note on the hydrodynamics of a tail tube buoy

This note presents some analytical results for a tail–tube buoy configuration frequently used in wave energy conversion. The overall approach is based on Falnes and McIver's (Falnes, J., McIver, P., 1985. Surface wave interactions with systems of oscillating bodies and pressure distributions. Applied Ocean Research 7 (4), 225–234) extension to floating oscillating water columns of Evans' (Evans, D.V., 1982. Wave power absorbtion by systems of oscillating surface pressure distributions. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 114, 481–499) theory of oscillating pressure distributions. The diffraction air-flow flux through the tube and the diffraction wave force on the flotation collar are obtained using the formulation of Garrett (1970, 1971) (Garrett, C.J.R., 1970. Bottomless harbours. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 43 (3), 433–449. Garrett, C.J.R., 1971. Wave forces on a circular dock. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 46 (1), 129–139). Results can be used in sizing the tube and collar for efficient energy conversion.     

On the variability of the high-frequency part of the spectrum of wind-forced sea waves

Data on the temporal variability of sea wave spectral components in the frequency range 1–8 Hz, collected by a drifting vessel in the Pacific ocean (wind speed 1–10 m/s), are discussed in this paper. For the frequency range 3–6 Hz (wind speed 5–8 m/s), a weak variability of the ripples is observed, synchronous with long waves; in the remaining part of the spectral range studied the fluctuations are fortuitous. It is concluded that the wind plays a crucial role in forming the ripples' fluctuation characteristics in the high-frequency part of the spectrum.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

CO2 cycling in the coastal ocean. I – A numerical analysis of the southeastern Bering Sea with applications to the Chukchi Sea and the northern Gulf of Mexico

A quasi-two dimensional model of the carbon and nitrogen cycling above the 70m isobath of the southeastern Bering Sea at 57°N replicates the observed seasonal cycles of nitrate, ammonium, ΣCO₂, pCO₂, light penetration, chlorophyll, phytoplankton growth rate, and primary production, as constrained by changes in wind, incident radiation, temperature, ice cover, vertical and lateral mixing, grazing stress, benthic processing of phytodetritus and zooplankton fecal pellets, and the pelagic microbial loop of DOC, bacteria, and their predators. About half of the seasonal resupply of nitrate stocks to their initial winter conditions is derived from in situ nitrification, with the rest obtained from deep-sea influxes. Under the present conditions of atmospheric forcing, shelf-break exchange, and food web structure, this shelf ecosystem serves as a sink for atmospheric CO₂, with storage in the forms of exported DOC, DIC, and unutilized POC (phytoplankton, bacteria, and fecal pellets).As a consequence of just the rising levels of atmospheric pCO₂ since the the Industrial Revolution, however, the biophysical CO₂ status of the Southeastern Bering Sea shelf may have switched over the last 250 years, from a prior source to the present sink, since this relatively pristine ecosystem has unergone little eutrophication. Such fluctuations of CO₂ status may thus be reversed by the physical processes of : (1) reduction of atmospheric pCO₂, (2) increased on welling of deep-sea ΣCO₂, and (3) warming of shelf waters. Based on our application of this model to the Chukchi Sea and the Gulf of Mexico, about 1.0–1.2 gigatons C y^-1 of atmospheric CO₂ may now be sequestered by temperate and polar shelf ecosystems. When tropical systems are included, however, a positive net sink of only 0.6–0.8. × 10¹⁵g C y⁻¹ may prevail over all shelves.     

Thermal structures in the Kuroshio extension measured with a towed thermistor chain

Two-dimensional temperature data observed by use of a 275 meter towed thermistor chain deployed from an oceanographic research vessel USS MARYSVILLE, which cruised with a speed of 6.2 knots in July 1966 across the Kuroshio Extension in the North Pacific, are investigated. Two-dimensional variations of the distribution of the isotherms along the ship's track are analyzed with special reference to their slope, wavelength and wave height. The results show that the slope and wave height of isotherms have a tendency to increase as the temperature decreases. Even if the contribution of wave heights smaller than 1.5 m is neglected, i.e., contribution of large scale slope with a horizontal scale of 5–30 km is subtracted, this tendency is still detected. In contrast to this, the wavelength evaluated by the crest to crest method has no dependency on the temperature. Power spectrum of the isotherm depth is proportional tok ^–1.87 for 13°C andk ^–2.13 for 27°C, wherek is the wave number. It is shown that the spectra of warmer isotherms are relatively well approximated by –2 power law (Garrett and Munk spectrum) for internal waves rather than the –5/3 power law (Kolmogorov spectrum) for three dimensional isotropic turbulence.     

Parameters of JONSWAP spectral model for surface gravity waves—II. Predictability from real data

Monte Carlo simulation of wave spectra was carried out to provide an assessment of JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. The simulation method is found to be satisfactory because (a) it excludes the spectral variability due to geophysical factors from the sampling errors in the spectral estimates and the statistical uncertainty in determining the model parameters; and (b) the simulated spectra can represent ideal spectral estimates where the sampling errors have been minimized by increasing the degrees of freedom of the spectra. The latter (b) allows both the magnitude of sampling errors to be evaluated and errors due to statistical uncertainty to be isolated. Thus, the stimulation study provides a useful error analysis to assess the JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. For instance, it is found from the results that the sampling errors could be as high as 20% while errors due to uncertainty in determining the model parameter could be as high as 17%. However, the overall errors may be reduced to the minimum of approx. 15% if the simulated spectra have 80 degrees of freedom and constant values of σ_a and σ_b i.e. σ_a = 0.07 and σ_b = 0.09. This implies that the maximum accuracy of 85% may be achieved in JONSWAP spectral model even though the α parameter has been underestimated by about 1.5%. The overestimated values of γ might come from the underestimated α and the biased φ_m estimator caused by the statistical uncertainty in the presence of a sharp spectral peak. Although the scale parameters (α and φ_m) exhibit smaller errors and variability than the shape parameters (ψ, σ_a and σ_b), they are more sensitive to the degrees of freedom of the spectra and their estimators are not better than the estimators of shape parameters. The simulation experiments have also shown that simulated spectra at 20–40 degrees of freedom contain a substantial amount of sampling errors. Therefore, the measured wave spectra at the same degrees of freedom (20–40) are not suitable and should not be used for evaluating the accuracy of any wave spectral model.