Measurement of skin friction distribution along the surface of wind waves

Measurements of local values of the skin friction have been made at many points along the surface of representative wind wave crests in a wind wave tunnel, by use of the distortion of hydrogen-bubble lines. The results obtained at 2.85-m fetch under 6.2 m s^–1 mean wind speed show that the intensity of the skin friction varies greatly along the surface of wind waves as a function of the phase angle. It increases rather continuously at the windward surface toward the crest, attains a value of about 12 dyn cm^–2 near the crest, decreases suddenly just past the crest, and the value at the lee surface is substantially zero Values of the skin friction thus determined along the representative wind waves give an average value of 3.6 dyn cm^–2, rather exceeding the overall stress value of 3.0 dyn cm^–2, which has been estimated from the wind profile. The results are interpreted as that the skin friction bears most of the shearing stress of wind, and that it exerts most intensively around the representative wave crests at their windward faces.     

Internal flow structure of short wind waves

The minimum value of wind stress under which the flow velocity in short wind waves exceeds the phase speed is estimated by calculating the laminar boundary layer flow induced by the surface tangential stress with a dominant peak at the wave crest as observed in previous experiments. The minimum value of the wind stress is found to depend strongly on, the ratio of the flow velocity just below the boundary layer and the phase speed, but weakly onL, the wavelength. For wind waves previously studied (=0.5,L=10 cm), the excess flow appears when the air friction velocityu _* is larger than about 30 cm sec^–1. The present results confirm that the excess flow found in my previous experiments is associated with the local growth of a laminar boundary layer flow near the wave crest.     

On flow in Northwestern Gulf of Alaska,May 1972

Southwestward volume transport (referred to 1,500 db) out of the Gulf of Alaska seaward of the continental shelf in May 1972 was 12.5 Sv, and nearly 3/4 of this flow occurred within 50 km of the shelf edge. Mean geostrophic velocities of about 50 cm s^–1 occurred in a band 20 km wide, which extended 500 km along the shelf edge; a maximum velocity of 98 cm s^–1 (nearly 2 knots) was obtained. Bottom flow along the inshore part of the shelf as determined by seabed drifters was generally onshore at 0.5 cm s^–1. Evidence is presented of a large cyclonic gyre on the shelf encompassing the Portlock and Albatross Banks, perturbations in surface flow along the shelf edge, and relations between coastal tidal heights and fluctuations in geopotential topography at the shelf edge.     

On vertical velocity fluctuations and internal tides in an upwelling region off the west coast of India

Hourly fluctuations of vertical velocity in relation to components of flow and wind and temperature oscillations at a morring site in the shelf waters off the west coast of India are discussed. The vertical velocities were computed from a time series of vertical temperature profiles assuming that horizontal advection of temperature is negligible. The computed values at a depth of 40 m during the 72-h period of observation were of the order of 10⁻¹ to 10⁻²cm s⁻¹, with a mean value of −2·77 × 10⁻² cm s⁻¹ indicating a net upward movement of water. The computed vertical velocity showed fluctuations of about 2–3 h, in addition to weaker signals of about 12 h. Based on the spectral estimates, we speculate that these fluctuations of 2–3 h in the vertical velocity may be caused by the fluctuations in the along-shore wind. The oscillations of isotherms found in the temperaturedepth time series and the spectral estimates of temperature and cross-shore flow component showed a periodicity of about 12 h, which indicated the presence of semi-diurnal internal waves. The fact that these internal wave troughs were associated with the measured onshore flow suggested that the waves were propagating offshore. The computed stability parameters showed little evidence of instability or mixing. It was found that the isotherm troughs in the temperaturedepth time series at about 12-h period coincided with high vertical shear in the cross-shore direction and low values of Brunt Vaisälä frequency.     

Convergence,divergence and vertical velocity at a tidal front in Hiuchi-Nada,Japan

The detailed flow structure around a tical front in Hiuchi-Nada, Japan was observed with the use of ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler). The surface convergence region is observed at the transition zone between vertically well mixed area and the stratified area. The surface divergence regions exist next to the surface convergence region. The strong downward current is estimated in the middle layer just below the surface convergence region. The maximum surface convergence and the maximum downward velocity in the middle layer are 1.0×10^–4 s^–1 and 0.12 cm s^–1, respectively.     

Vertical residual flow in Kasado Bay

Some observations were carried out to understand the structure of the vertical residual flow in Kasado Bay. The results of current measurements at three points in the lower layer indicated that a horizontal counterclockwise tidal residual circulation converges in the lower layer. The velocity of upward residual flow was estimated to be about 4.5×10^–3 cm s^–1. The distributions of water temperature, salinity and grain size in the sediment support the existence of this upward motion.     

Discussion on the critical wind speed for wind-wave generation on the basis of shear-flow instability theory

Observed critical wind speeds for the generation of wind waves are compared with those derived from a shear-flow instability theory. The theory predicts that the critical wind speed depends on the fetch and, for the case of infinite fetch, it is 93 cm s^–1 at 30 cm above the mean water surface, which agrees well with observations at sufficiently large fetch. For water containing soap, the much larger critical wind speeds which are observed cannot be explained by the reduction of surface tension alone. A qualitative discussion suggests that the elasticity of surface films of soap can effectively increase the critical wind speed.     

Taylor-Görtler vortices expected in the air flow on sea surface waves—II

The instability of Taylor-Görtler vortices which are expected in the air flow on water waves was studied in part I, under the assumption that the curvature around the crest or the trough of water waves, where the instability was expected to take place first, was constant, namely that the characteristics of the vortices were affected little by the local change of the curvature along the direction of the progress of water waves (the direction ofx-axis) However, the curvature actually varies from positive to negative, or vice versa. In order to study this effect, the instability of Taylor-Görtler vortices is examined with respect to the range of the part of a constant curvature, in the model in which the curvature is positive constant near the trough and negative constant near the crest, and zero in the intermediate regions, respectively. It is shown that as the region of the constant curvature becomes narrower, the instability tends to weaken. For the same example with part I, namely, when the wind of 12.2 m s^–1 is blowing over swells of 15 m in wavelength, if the range of constant curvature near the trough is taken as a quarter of one wave length, the critical wave height becomes 0.96 m instead of 0.50 m, and conversely, the wave length and the height of center of the vortex become 11.9 m and 2.1 m instead of 24 m and 3.7 m, respectively.Further, using the energy equations, quantitative estimates are performed of the intensity of the vortices which develop when the wave height of the swell is 1.05 m in the above described example, and also of the influence of the vortices upon the wind profile when the equilibrium state is reached. When the vortices are generated and grow to attain to an equilibrium state interacting with the mean flow, the maximumx-component of velocity in the vortices is about 1.04 m s^–1. Consequently, the wind profile undergoes a considerable distortion from the logarithmic one near the level of 2 m height. This distorted wind profile has a form similar to those sometimes observed above the sea surface.     

Continental shelf waves off the fukushima coast Part I: Observations

Current records obtained in the inshore region along the Fukushima coast are analyzed. The existence of periodical current fluctuations whose period is about 100 hours and whose amplitude is as large as 15–25cm s^–1 is recognized. Auto-spectral analyses are made also for sea level, atmospheric pressure and wind records. Each spectrum has significant peaks at the similar period to the current spectrum. The wind spectrum has a broad peak compared with the current. The periodical current fluctuations propagate southward with speed of 3–5 km h^–1. These propagation speeds seem to correspond to those of the second-and third-mode shelf waves.     

The nearshore current along a high-rainfall,trade-wind coast-Nicaragua

Runoff from abundant rainfall on the watersheds along the east coast of Nicaragua results in a well-defined nearshore current, extending 20–40 km out from the coast. Important terms in the controlling dynamical balance are the Coriolis forces, and eddy frictional forces. Calculations of the diabathic surface slope 0(10^?5) show a smooth setup of 4–5 cm from the outer edge of the current to the shoreline. A longshore surface slope of 0(10^?8) appears to be set up by the longshore wind stress, and further computations allow an estimate of ～ 6 gr cm^?1 s^?1 for the dynamic eddy viscosity. An analytical expression including diabathic surface slope and density gradient, parabathic surface slope, wind stress, and quadratic bottom friction reproduces the salient observed features of the nearshore current. These include the pronounced maximum in the parabathic (along-shelf) current about 10 km off the coast, a complex diabathic velocity structure, and a shelf countercurrent just seaward of the outer edge. Further calculations suggest that the dominant driving arises from the freshwater-induced density gradients, accounting for upward of 80% of the flow velocity. As suggested by Royer (1982), the prevailing trade wind exerts an onshore wind stress that serves the important role of maintaining the integrity of the density gradients via the convergence of a surface Ekman layer toward the coast.     

Measurements of the water-following capability of holey-sock and TRISTAR drifters

Since 1985, a number of measurements have been made in deep water to determine the water-following characteristics of mixed layer drifters with both holey-sock and TRISTAR drogues at 15 m depth. The measurements were done by attaching two neutrally buoyant vector measuring current meters (VMCMs) to the top and the bottom of the drogues and deploying the drifters in different wind and upper ocean shear conditions for periods of 2–4 h. The average velocity of the VMCM records was taken to be a quantitative measure of the slip of the drogue through the water, observed to be 0.5-3.5 cm s⁻¹. The most important hydrodynamic design parameter which influenced the slip of the drogue was the ratio of the drag area of the drogue to the sum of the drag areas of the tether and surface floats: the drag area ratio R. The most important environmental parameters which affected the slip were the wind and the measured velocity difference across the vertical extent of the drogue. A model of the vector slip as a function of R, vector wind and velocity difference across the drogue was developed and a least squares fit accounts for 85% of the variance of the slip measurements. These measurements indicated that to reduce the wind produced slip below 1 cm s⁻¹ in 10 m s⁻¹ wind speed, R > 40. Conversely, if the daily average wind is known to 5 m s⁻¹ accuracy, the displacement of the R = 40 drifter can be corrected to an accuracy of 0.5 km day⁻¹.     

Dynamics of subtidal flow in the Taiwan Strait

Two current meter moorings were deployed in the Taiwan Strait from 3 April to 5 May 1983. The data indicate that the subtidal flow in this rather wide strait can be separated into two parts: the mean flow and wind-driven flow, which make about equal contributions to the overall flow. The mean flow is probably originates from branching of the Kuroshio through Bashi Channel. The magnitude of the current is nearly 30 cm sec^–1 flowing northward, and the corresponding along-strait sea surface slope is on the order of 10^–7. The residual flow is a local wind-driven flow, and reaches a frictionally balanced state in about 4 hr. Assuming a linear drag law for the bottom stress, a hindcast scheme is constructed and the results compare well with the observations.     

Celtic and Armorican slope and shelf residual currents

Current meter data collected over the last 20 years are presented and used to describe the residual currents on the Celtic and Armorican slope and shelf regions. On the slopes, a poleward current of about 6cm s⁻¹ exists at the 500m depth contour. At mid depths, these currents are directed onslope, whereas near the bottom the flow in markedly downslope, reaching mean speeds of about 15cm s⁻¹ near 6°40′W. The downslope currents are thought to be largely tidally induced and balanced by Stokes transports. The total slope transport near 48°N is about 4Sv. On the upper slopes (<1000m depth) the transport increases poleward. On the outer Celtic shelf, a weak (2 cm s⁻¹) counter-current flowing southeastwards was observed. On the Armorican shelf, the residual flow is again nothwestwards and this coastal flow appears to continue northwards across the mouth of the English Chanel and past the Isles of Scilly with typical mean upper layer speeds of about 2cm s⁻¹. Southwest of Ireland the flow is again northwesterly. Numerical model simulations show that the eastern slope boundary current of the NE Atlantic can be driven by realistic distributions of seawater density. The simulations also show only a small wind driven barotropic response on the Celtic and Armorican shelf region and that a component of the residual shelf flows, like the slope current, may be driven by pressure distributions arising from regional differences in the distribution of seawater density, or from non local wind stress.     

Forced convection accompanying wind waves

Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves.     

Response of water column to strong wind forcing,southern Brazilian inner shelf: Implications for sand ridge formation

The result of two sequential oceanographic stations of 36 hours each in the area of sand ridges are presented. One station was located in the trough between two sand ridges and the other was at the crest of a sand ridge. At these stations salinity and temperature of the sea water, currents, winds, waves, and barometric pressure were measured each hour.During the observations, a cold front passed; this generated westerly winds that grew in speed from 24 to 52 km h^?1. The average height of the wind generated waves grew from 1.0 to 1.5 m and their periods increased from 7 to 10 s, and the speed of the northeast directed surface current increased from 40 to 82 cm s^?1. A bottom current (also directed northeast) increased from 26 to 34 cm s^?1.After the cold front had passed, the wind backed to the southeast and decreased in speed from 26 to zero km h^?1. The surface current in a northwest direction decreased from 29 to 8 cm s^?1. A bottom current (also directed northwest) decreased from 22 to 3 cm s^?1. Later, swells from the southeast appeared and their periods increased from 5 to 9 s and their heights grew from 1.0 to 1.5 m. After 3 hours, the speeds of the surface and bottom currents increased from 8 to 72 cm s^?1 and 3 to 62 cm s^?1 respectively.This cold front induced strong winds and storm-wave currents able to erode sediments (assuming a threshold velocity of 20 cm s^?1) and transport them in a north-northeast direction.The origin and the maintenance of these sand ridges is thought to be a function of sediments eroded from troughs and piled up at ridge crests during a storm condition. Some eroded sediments are transported north of Verga lighthouse where they are deposited on a smooth bottom.     

Dirunal variability and its quantification of subsurface sound scatterers in the western equatorial Pacific

A downwardf-looking acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP), suspended by a series of surface and subsurface floats and connecte to an anchroed ship, proided a quite stable platform to measure the, vertical profiles of backscatter strenght *BS) and three components of the velocith from 12 to 22 November 1992 at 1°30S and 156°15E, in the Intensive Flux Array (IFA) of TOGA/COARE. While the variability of the horizontal velocity was controlled by the semi-diurnal tide, BS and vertifal velocity were dominated by diurnal variability probably caused by the diel migration of zooplakton. The downward migration occurred early in the moring (0500–0700 in local time) and the upward one late in the afternoon (1700–1900). The average values of about 4 cm s^–1 for the sinking and rising speed were estimated from Doppler shift and BS isopleth displacement. The subsurface chlorophyll maximum (SCM) coincident with the top of the thermocline at 80–100 m was also detectable in the BS data during daytime when almost no migrating zooplankton remained in the upper 300 m. Backscatter signals from the SCM and thermocline were separated by corrlating the BS data with the chlorophylla and temperature data. The maximum contribution of the migrating zooplanktion, passively drifting phytoplankton and temperature gradient on BS was estimated to be 14.8, 7.0, 5.1 dB, respectively.     

Consolidation and permeability characteristics of high-porosity surficial sediments in Eckernförde Bay

Back-pressured, constant-rate-of-deformation consolidation, and permeability tests were conducted on 21 undisturbed samples from Eckernförde Bay in the Baltic Sea. The soft fine-grained sediments have very high in-situ void ratios and are highly compressible. The compression index decreases slightly in the upper 40 cm but remains essentially unchanged below 40 cm at an average value of 3.5 to a depth of 260 cm. Recompression indices range from 5 to 19% of the virgin indices. The preconsolidation stress is consistently higher than the overburden stress, particularly near the surface. Permeabilities at in situ void ratios vary between 3 × 10^–4 and 10^–6 cm s^–1, with the relationship between void ratio and the logarithm of permeability being linear.     

Calm-weather spring and neap tidal current characteristics on a shoreface-connected ridge complex in the German Bight (southern north Sea)

While shoreface-connected sand ridges may be molded by storm-generated waves and currents, calmweather counterparts may determine their longevity in the German Bight. Fair-weather flow measurements on shoreface ridges off Spiekeroog Island show that: (1) peak velocities (U₁₀₀ max) mostly range from 30 to 60 cm s^–1 and are flood asymmetric, except at neap tide when ebb flows are dominant in ridge troughs; (2) velocity contrast between accelerating and decelerating flow phases is higher for ebb than flood currents, suggesting intense interaction between inlet and shoreface ebb currents; and (3) tidal currents play a primary role in ridge maintenance.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.     

Characteristics of the eddy caused by Izu-Oshima Island and the Kuroshio branch current in Sagami Bay,Japan

Direct current measurements of the branch current of the Kuroshio intruding into Sagani Bay were carried out during 1989–1990 in order to clarify the frequency characteristics of the eddies in the lee of Izu-Oshima Island, which are well recognized as cold water mass produced by upwelling. Satellite and ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) data indicated that current velocity in the eddy fluctuates with periods of 2–4 days and 6–8 days.When the Kuroshio branch current intruding into Sagami Bay from the western channel is weak and its velocity at the depth of 400 m is approximately 10 cm s^–1, the 6–8 day period fluctuation is dominant. On the other hand, when the branch current strongly intrudes from the western channel with a velocity of approximately 20 cm s^–1, the 2–4 day period fluctuation dominates. The relationship between the periods and velocities agrees well with theory based on laboratory experiments for a flow of a homogeneous fluid past a circular obstacle. These periods correspond to the time scale of appearance of the eddy caused by the intrusion of the Kuroshio branch current into Sagami Bay and Izu-Oshima Island.