海啸俘获波在弯曲海脊上的传播规律

越洋海啸会受大洋海脊的引导以俘获波的形式沿其传播上万千米,其携带的巨大能量会严重影响远场地区、威胁海岸地区的安全。本文基于MIKE21-BW模型,分别模拟0°(直海脊)至90°(直角弯曲海脊)不同弯曲角度海脊上俘获波的传播变形过程,并定量比较其能量分配。结果表明,海脊俘获波传至海脊转弯处,少部分能量会泄露出海脊重新以自由波的形式扩散至整个海域;部分能量会被反射回来形成与初始海啸波相反方向的俘获波沿海脊传播,反射的能量会随着海脊弯曲角度的增加而增加;还有一部分能量继续沿着弯曲的海脊向前传播,其随着海脊弯曲的角度增加而减小。     

台阶型海脊俘获波的实验研究

基于物理模型实验研究瞬态冲击波在台阶地形上传播过程,揭示由于反射而在海脊上出现的波浪俘获现象。结果表明:在瞬态波产生区域附近,海脊上所测到的先导波即为最大波,其由泄漏至海脊外的深水波绕射至海脊所致。随着传播距离的增加,由于频散效应的影响,先导波逐渐减小,沿台阶近似直线传播的海脊俘获波和在台阶上曲折传播的海脊俘获波逐渐显现。在距离波浪产生较远区域所测的最大波晚于先导波出现,且这些由俘获波所叠加而成的最大波随着传播距离的增加而呈现出更加复杂的波面过程。     

基于射线理论的海脊俘获波机制

虽然众多现场实测资料和数值模拟均表明海脊可以俘获海啸波并引导其传播至远场地区,带来严重的灾害,但少有研究阐述其产生机理。本文基于射线理论,推导了指数型海脊上波浪传播轨迹的理论解,并提出了震源位于海脊顶部的海啸被海脊完全俘获的条件。基于该俘获条件进一步给出了海脊对海啸俘获效率的表达式,用以评估海啸中被海脊俘获影响至远场的能量占海啸总能量的比例。     

抛物型对称海脊引导波完整解析理论

越洋海啸能够被大洋海脊引导并沿海脊传播至远场地区,虽然传播速度较慢,但携带较大的能量,会对远场地区造成灾害影响,相关研究对于提高海啸传播特性本质的认识具有重要意义。本文基于线性长波方程,推导出了抛物型对称海脊引导波完整解析理论。研究表明对称型海脊同时存在对称与反对称引导波,其自由水面波动可以表示为虚宗量Bessel函数形式。利用海脊中心对称条件给出了描述其频率与波数的频散关系。基于所提理论进一步分析讨论了引导波的运动特性,包括频散关系、波速度、能量传播速度与波面空间分布等。本研究为揭示地形坡度由脊顶至两侧逐渐增加的海脊引导波运动特征,预测实际越洋海啸中最具威胁性海啸波的到达时间提供了理论依据。     

2016年全球地震海啸监测预警与数值模拟研究

回顾了国家海洋环境预报中心(国家海洋局海啸预警中心)2016年全球地震海啸监测预警的总体状况, 并基于震源生成模型和海啸传播数值模型的计算结果详细介绍了几次主要海啸事件及其影响特性。2016年全年国家海洋环境预报中心总共对全球6.5级(中国近海5.5级)以上海底地震响应了45次,发布海啸信息81期, 没有发生对我国有明显影响的海啸。结合精细化的数值模拟结果和浮标监测数据,重点介绍了苏门达腊7.8级地震海啸、厄瓜多尔7.8级地震海啸、新西兰7.1级和7.8级地震海啸, 以及所罗门7.8级地震海啸的波动特征和传播规律, 模拟结果与实测海啸波符合较好。针对厄瓜多尔7.8级地震海啸事件, 本文比较分析了均匀断层模型和多源有限断层模型对模拟结果的影响; 针对新西兰7.1级地震海啸, 探讨了色散效应对海啸波在大水深、远距离传播过程的影响规律。     

基于类海啸波型的岛礁水动力特性数值模拟研究

基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度二维数值波浪水槽,采用日本2011年实测真实海啸波型系统研究了海啸波在岛礁上传播变形的规律,并且分析了波高、礁坪淹没水深和礁前斜坡坡度等因素对孤立波和真实海啸传播变形的影响。结果表明,相比孤立波,类海啸波的波长明显大于孤立波波长,在测点处引起的水面变化持续时间更长,同等波高情况下真实海啸波型比孤立波能够携带更多的能量,与岛礁的相互作用也更为复杂,在礁坪上形成的淹没水深约为孤立波的两倍。礁前斜坡坡度和礁坪淹没水深均对类海啸波的反射和透射系数有显著影响。随着礁前斜坡坡度的增加,反射系数和透射系数均逐渐增加。随着礁坪淹没水深的增加,反射系数逐渐减小,而透射系数逐渐增大。但是,反射系数和透射系数均随着入射波高的增加而逐渐减小。     

海啸波数值模拟的研究现状

介绍海啸特点及主要分布状况,对比现在常用的海啸模拟数学模型,并分析数值模拟海啸的研究中存在的问题及研究进展,最后提出对未来进行精确的海啸数值模拟研究的一些展望。     

海啸波对近岸岛礁影响的数值模拟研究

基于Okada有限断层模型和非线性浅水波方程,结合高精度嵌套网格建立了越洋（中国近海）-局部-近岸岛礁的海啸生成与传播的数值模型。以三亚凤凰岛为例,首先针对2011日本地震海啸,模拟分析了海啸波沿中国沿海大陆架的传播特征及对凤凰岛的影响规律。在取得验证结果的基础上,进一步讨论了中国近海的马尼拉海沟和琉球海沟的潜在海啸源,以及环太平洋的21个潜在特大越洋海啸对凤凰岛的影响特征。依据海啸波在抵达凤凰岛的波浪特征,结合傅里叶频谱分析方法,探索了近岸岛礁对海啸波的放大效应。结果表明,中国近海一般震级的海啸和特大越洋海啸对凤凰岛存在一定影响,最大波幅接近1 m,传播时间从3 h到27 h不等。受三亚东南半岛的影响,琉球海沟激发的海啸和越洋海啸在凤凰岛的放大效应相对于马尼拉海沟较小,其频率集中在0.8×10-4~2×10-4 Hz。马尼拉海沟产生的海啸波在凤凰岛产生了较为显著的放大效应,对于凤凰岛是值得关注的高风险海啸源。     

植被斜坡岸滩海啸波消减数值模拟研究

An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for maintaining the mass balance of these equations. The resistance force caused by vegetation was taken into account as a source term in the momentum equation. The Harten–Lax–van Leer(HLL) approximate Riemann solver was applied to evaluate the interface fluxes for tracing the wet/dry transition boundary. This proposed model was used to simulate solitary wave run-up and long-periodic wave propagation on a sloping beach. The calibration process suitably compared the calculated results with the measured data. The tsunami waves were also simulated to discuss the water depth, tsunami force, as well as the current speed in absence of and in presence of forest domain. The results indicated that forest growth at the beach reduced wave energy loss caused by tsunamis. A series of sensitivity analyses were conducted with respect to variable parameters(such as vegetation densities, wave heights, wave periods, bed resistance, and beach slopes) to identify important influences on mitigating tsunami damage on coastal forest beach.     

相交圆柱摆式波能装置俘获效率数值分析

摆式波能装置具有结构简单和转化效率高等特点,本文应用AQWA 软件基于势流理论对相交圆柱摆式波能装置进行了数值模拟研究,分析了轴间距比、结构阻尼、净浮力比、水深、波浪特性及吃水深度等主要参数对相交圆柱摆式波能装置俘获效率的影响,并与直板摆式波能装置的俘获效率进行了对比。结果表明：同样条件下,相交圆柱摆式波能装置往往比直板摆式波能装置的俘获效率更高;在研究范围内,轴间距比越大俘获效率越高;潮汐导致的水深变化对底铰摆式波能装置的俘获效率具有明显的影响,在工程应用中应采取适当的措施进行处理。     

潜堤上破碎波浪传播变形的数值模型及其验证

为模拟潜堤上破碎波浪传播时产生能量的耗散这一特性,在改进的具有四阶色散的Boussinesq水波方程中中入二阶紊动粘性项,建立了考虑波浪破碎的水波数学模型.在非交错网格下建立了有限差分数值模型,并利用三阶Adams-Bash forth格式预报、四阶Adams-Mouton格式校正对数值模型进行求解.通过数值试验,模拟...     

Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.     

基于全和谐型浅水方程的有限体积海啸数值模型开发与应用

数值模拟作为海啸预报的主要研究方法在海啸预警中起着关键作用。本文采用Godunov格式的有限体积方法,使用MUSCL-Hancock格式,并利用HLLC Riemann近似求解器计算单元界面上的流体通量,建立了球坐标系下二阶精度的海啸数值模型。模型所基于的全和谐型浅水方程保证了数值的稳定性,而地形重构方法实现了干湿边界的精准模拟。本文模拟了2015年9月16日智利M_w8.3级地震海啸,通过与智利近岸14个测站和环太平洋20个DART浮标实测数据比较,验证了模型对实际越洋海啸模拟预报的能力。     

台湾海峡一次海啸的初步数值模拟

应用一个三维斜压陆架海模式--HAMSOM模式,首先对台湾海峡内的背景潮汐场进行了数值模拟,随后将一个参数化公式作为强迫条件,对1994年发生在海峡内的一次海啸进行模拟,结果与实测数据比较吻合.还分析了海啸波在海峡沿岸的分布情况及其对沿岸区域的影响状况,结果表明该次海啸波动对海峡沿岸区域的影响不大.     

An integrated numerical method for simulation of drifted objects trajectory under real-world tsunami waves

The present study focused on tracing tsunami-drifted objects under a real tsunami based on an integrated numerical method. Instead of a solitary wave that is much shorter and steeper than real-world tsunami waves, an extra-long tsunami wave is represented here in a nearshore region using a new approach. To this end, propagation of a seismic tsunami from the source to the nearshore region was simulated using two-dimensional depth-averaged equations. When the waves reached the target coastal area, the time series of the free surface of the tsunami was approximated by a theoretical relation based on a combination of several solitons, which were then used to solve the linearized trajectory equation of the wave-maker to generate the intended time series of the tsunami wave. Finally, in a nearshore model, the movement of drifted bodies under the generated tsunami wave was simulated based on the smoothed-particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. In order to verify the accuracy of the proposed method in tracing the drifted bodies under a real tsunami, the giant fish-oil tank, which was transported about 300 m during the 2011 Tohoku tsunami of Japan, was selected as the benchmark. The results demonstrate that the time series of the long tsunami wave was successfully generated by the piston wave-maker in the GPU-based SPH model, and the proposed approach can be regarded as a suitable alternative for reproduction of a real tsunami. The results also showed that the simulated fish-oil tank properly followed the estimated trajectory in Ishinomaki but it was transported more than the reported distance, which was expected due to absence of a holding connection between the tank and the ground in the SPH model. It should be emphasized that this study is one of the first studies on three-dimensional tracing of a tsunami-drifted body during a real event, and the tracing can be more accurate in further simulations by applying higher-resolution topography data and faster computation systems that help include more details in the nearshore model.     

滑坡海啸的预测模型及其应用

对3个典型的滑坡海啸强度的预测模型进行了介绍,并将其与海底边坡稳定性分析相结合,提出了滑坡海啸的预测方法。采用滑坡海啸预测方法计算了岙山原油码头潜在滑坡区滑坡海啸的强度,结果表明,若该地区发生滑坡,局部海岸将会产生波高为2~3 m的海啸,与当时观测到结果相吻合,因而该预测方法是具有一定准确性的较好预测海啸强度的方法。