Aeolization on the Atlantic coast of Galicia (NW Spain) from the end of the last glacial period to the present day: Chronology,origin and evolution of coastal dunes linked to sea-level oscillations

The Atlantic coast of Galicia (NW Spain) is a high-energy environment where shingle beaches are currently developing. These coarser sediments alternate with sandy deposits which are also considered as beaches typical of a low-energy environment. The physical association of both types of sediment with contrasted sedimentary significance raises problems of interpretation. The study of four outcrops of fossil aeolianites on this coast has allowed us to reconstruct their evolution from the end of the Upper Pleistocene to the present day. Their chronology, estimated by optically stimulated luminescence between 35 and 14 ky at the end of the last glaciation (MIS2), coincides with a local sea level 120 m below the present one. This implies a coastline shifted several kilometres from its current location and the subaerial exposure of a wide strip of the continental shelf covered by sands. The wind blew sand to form dunes towards the continent, covering the coastal areas, which then emerged with no other limitation than the active river channels. Sea-level rise during the Holocene transgression has progressively swamped these aeolian deposits, leaving only flooded dunes, relict coastal dunes and climbing dunes on cliffs up to 180 m high. The aeolian process continued as long as there was a sandy source area to erode, although accretion finished when the sea reached its current level (Late Holocene). Since then, the wind turned from accretion to erosion of the dunes and sand beaches. This erosion exposes the older shingle beaches (probably of Eemian age) buried under the aeolian sands, as well as old, submerged forest remains and megalithic monuments. The destruction of sand beaches and dunes currently observed along the Galician coast is linked, according to most researchers, to anthropogenic global warming. However, their management should consider these evolutive issues.     

Origin and Extent of Fresh Paleowaters on the Atlantic Continental Shelf, USA

While the existence of relatively fresh groundwater sequestered within permeable, porous sediments beneath the Atlantic continental shelf of North and South America has been known for some time, these waters have never been assessed as a potential resource. This fresh water was likely emplaced during Pleistocene sea-level low stands when the shelf was exposed to meteoric recharge and by elevated recharge in areas overrun by the Laurentide ice sheet at high latitudes. To test this hypothesis, we present results from a high-resolution paleohydrologic model of groundwater flow, heat and solute transport, ice sheet loading, and sea level fluctuations for the continental shelf from New Jersey to Maine over the last 2 million years. Our analysis suggests that the presence of fresh to brackish water within shallow Miocene sands more than 100 km offshore of New Jersey was facilitated by discharge of submarine springs along Baltimore and Hudson Canyons where these shallow aquifers crop out. Recharge rates four times modern levels were computed for portions of New England's continental shelf that were overrun by the Laurentide ice sheet during the last glacial maximum. We estimate the volume of emplaced Pleistocene continental shelf fresh water (less than 1 ppt) to be 1300 km³ in New England. We also present estimates of continental shelf fresh water resources for the U.S. Atlantic eastern seaboard (10⁴ km³) and passive margins globally (3 × 10⁵ km³). The simulation results support the hypothesis that offshore fresh water is a potentially valuable, albeit nonrenewable resource for coastal megacities faced with growing water shortages.     

Tsunami Intensity Mapping Along the Coast of Tamilnadu (India) During the Deadliest Indian Ocean Tsunami of December 26, 2004

This paper presents tsunami intensity mapping and damage patterns along the surveyed coast of Tamilnadu (India) of the deadly Indian Ocean tsunami of December 26, 2004. The tsunami caused severe damage and claimed many victims in the coastal areas of eleven countries bordering the Indian Ocean. A twelve-stage tsunami intensity scale proposed by Papadopoulos and Imamura (2001) was followed to assign the intensity at the visited localities. Along the coast of the Indian mainland, tsunami damage sustained exclusively. Most severe damage was observed in Nagapattinam Beach, Nabiyarnagar, Vellaipalyam, and the Nagapattinam Port of Nagapattinum District on the east coast and Keelamanakudy village of Kanyakumari District on the western coast of Tamilnadu. The maximum assigned tsunami intensity was X+ at these localities. Minimum intensity V⁺ was received along the coast of Thanjavur, Puddukkotai and Ramnathpuram Districts in Palk Strait. The general observation reported by many people was that the first arrival was a tsunami crest. The largest tsunami waves were first arrivals on the eastern coast and the second arrivals on the western coast. Along the coast, people were unaware of the tsunami, and no anomalous behavior of ocean animals was reported. Good correlation was observed between the severity of damage and the presence of shadow zone of Sri Lanka, reflected waves from Sri Lanka and the Maldives Islands, variation in the width of the continental shelf, elevation of the coast and the presence of breakwaters. The presence of medu (naturally elevated landmass very close to the sea shore and elongated parallel to the coast) reduced the impact of the tsunami on the built environment.     

Upwelling or differential cooling? Analysis of satellite SST images of the Southeastern Baltic Sea

The results of comparative analysis of sea surface temperature variations along horizontal sections in the coastal zone are given. The data used had been taken by MODIS spectroradiometers (Aqua, Terra) in the Southeastern Baltic, in periods of coastal upwelling—in the periods of autumn differential cooling over coastal continental slopes (facilitating water subsidence along these slopes). Studying 135 SST images of coastal upwelling events in May–October 2000–2014 and four cooling events in October–November 2002, 2004, 2005, and 2009 revealed the specific features of the shape of horizontal temperature profiles on sea surface along sections over coastal continental slopes. In addition to the higher differences between water surface temperatures in the deep and coastal parts of the sea (up to 14°C), upwelling features an appreciable distance from the cold-water core to the coast (up to 3–15 km) and a variable shape of horizontal profiles of water temperature on the sea surface along the sections. Conversely, during autumn differential cooling, water temperature difference on the surface is relatively small, the shape of the dependence of surface water temperature on the distance to the shore does not change over time, varies only slightly with the alongshore displacement of the section, and shows low sensitivity to bathymetry and even to wind effect. Thus, the analysis of the shape of the temperature on the sea surface along horizontal sections over coastal continental slopes enables the diagnostics of the regime of vertical water exchange in the coastal zone.     

Magnetic fields due to sea tides in the english channel

The M₂ (12.42-h period) magnetic field variation present at night in the United Kingdom can be interpreted in terms of sea tides, the main contribution being from the Atlantic Ocean. Osgood et al. (1970) observed a difference between the M₂-variations in the total magnetic field (F) variations at Sidmouth (0.8 km from the coast) and Exeter (16 km from the coast) of amplitude 0.8 γ, which must be due to local effects. Analysis of the phase of this difference between Exeter and Sidmouth has shown that it cannot be due entirely to tidally induced electric current systems confined to the English Channel. Measurements with two three-component magnetometers have shown that the night-time variations in the north-south (H) component of 12.42-h period are significantly different at Sidmouth and Exeter. The difference in H is in phase with the expected electric potential difference across Devon due to the difference in the phases of the sea tides in the English Channel and the Bristol Channel. The results of Donato and Rosser (1973) on micropulsations suggest the existence of a region of high conductivity under Exeter. If this connects the English Channel to the Bristol Channel, a current will flow beneath Exeter giving a difference in the M₂-variations in H at Exeter and Sidmouth. This difference in H dominates the M₂-variations in the total magnetic field (F) variations at Exeter and Sidmouth measured by Osgood et al. (1970).     

Magnetic Evidence for Volcanism at Eastern Continental Margin of India: Juxtaposition with Elan Bank (Southern Indian Ocean)

The rifted Eastern Continental Margin of India (ECMI) has evolved as a result of breakup of East Gondwanaland. Previous geophysical studies of the continental margin have not elucidated upon its volcanic nature. Magnetics plays a useful role in the study of continental margins, particularly in identifying the volcanic units. The aeromagnetic map of the offshore Mahanadi basin of ECMI displays a conspicuous linear anomaly along the continental shelf. A comprehensive study of the published aeromagnetic, marine magnetic and gravity data of the offshore Mahanadi basin reveals the existence of a seaward dipping volcanic unit in the offshore Mahanadi basin bordering the Hinge zone. This inference suggests that the ECMI is a volcanic rifted margin. The study further indicates the deepening of the basement towards the sea. In addition, the existing geological studies on the ECMI demarcated the probable limit of the continental crust by studying the basement detached tectonic style of the sedimentation in sub-surface configuration of the East coast basins of India. The probable continental crustal limit, the Hinge zone, and the inner edge of the presently inferred volcanic unit conform to one another spatially in the offshore Mahanadi region. These features characterize the inferred volcanic body as seaward dipping reflectors (SDRs) that usually occur at the rifted continental margins. The deepening of the basement towards the sea and the presence of the volcanic body on the continental margin are indicative of the transitional nature of the crust. It is generally accepted that Antarctica and India were juxtaposed before the breakup of Gondwanaland. But the microcontinents in the southern Indian Ocean are neglected in the reconstruction of Gondwanaland continents. The recent studies of the discovery of continental crust within the Elan Bank (EB) microcontinent show that the EB was contiguous with the East coast of India before the breakup of Gondwanaland. Moreover, it is reported that the upper igneous crust of the EB consists of a 2–3 km thick layer of accumulated lava flows originating from the Kerguelen hotspot. An estimate shows that the total volume of volcanic and plutonic component of the Elan Bank is about 0.3 million cubic kilometers. The present inference of a volcanic body from the offshore Mahanadi basin is in agreement with the above observations of the juxtaposition of EB with ECMI.     

Texture and petrology of modern river, beach and shelf sands in a volcanic back-arc setting, northeastern Japan

Abstract The focus in the present study is on characterizing spatial patterns of textural and petrological variabilities, and on evaluating mechanisms influencing the textural and petrological components of modern river, beach and shelf sands in a volcanically active back‐arc tectonic setting. Abashiri Bay and the surrounding area in eastern Hokkaido, Japan, has volcanic source land within a back‐arc region associated with subduction of the Pacific Plate beneath the Okhotsk (North American) Plate. A total of 41 river, beach and shelf sands were obtained for grain‐size and modal composition analyses. Multivariate analytical techniques of hierarchical cluster and principal component analyses were performed on the textural and petrological data for investigating relations among quantitative variables. On the basis of grain‐size data, four sedimentary zones were identified: zone I, palimpsest zone; zone II, relict zone; zone III, modern (proteric) zone; zone IV, coastal sedimentary zone. All sands are feldspatholithic and quartz‐deficient. The framework (quartz, feldspar and rock fragment) modal compositions were also classified into four clusters, A–D. The characteristic components of each cluster are as follows: cluster A, felsic volcanic rock fragments; cluster B, andesitic–basaltic volcanic rock fragments; cluster C, mixed or plagioclase; cluster D, sedimentary rock fragments. Almost all sands in western and central Abashiri Bay belong to cluster A, where the original compositions are influenced by Kutcharo pyroclastic flow deposits. Andesitic–basaltic lava and Neogene volcaniclastic and sedimentary rocks have a major influence on the compositions of shelf sands in eastern Abashiri Bay. The modal compositions are basically controlled by the source lithology. Compositional maturity (percentage of quartz to feldspar and rock fragments; Q/FR%) slightly increased, in order, from river (1.2), zone IV (coastal, 1.7), zone II (relict, 2.2), zone I (palimpsest, 3.6), to zone III (modern proteric, 7.0). Greater maturity in the recycled sediments is indicative of weathering under the sea or abrasion by transportation induced by sea‐level fluctuations, waves, or sea currents. Several controlling factors – (i) source lithological; (ii) mineralogical; (iii) climatic; and (iv) geomorphological controls – might still cause low maturity through all sedimentary zones other than the continental margin sands previously reported.     

Low-frequency variability of currents and temperatures on the Pacific continental shelf off northern Baja California, 1978 to 1979

Currents, coastal winds, coastal sea level, and coastal ocean temperatures were observed at a number of northern Baja California Pacific sites between October 1978 and October 1979. Coastal winds were weakly southward on average and fluctuated north-south throughout the year. Fluctuations were uncorrelated over alongshore separations of 200 km. Coastal winds differed considerably from the large-scale offshore wind estimate (Bakun's Index) both in strength and in variability. At 30°50′N the mean currents were weakly equatorward at 25 m depth and weakly poleward at 42 and 60 m in a water depth of 75 m. The seasonal mean flow was equatorward from October to April and poleward from April to October at the shallower level but poleward all year near bottom. The fluctuations on a time scale of days to weeks were about an order of magnitude stronger than the seasonal variation, were oriented predominantly alongshore, and were quasi-barotropic in nature. Empirical orthogonal analyses showed that almost 90% of the variability could be represented by a single empirical mode. The alongshore fluctuations were significantly correlated with coastal sea level from October to July but during the rest of the year correlation was insignificant, possibly as a result of offshore eddies approaching the shelf.Observations at 25- and 60-m depth at a second mooring 100 km south of the first indicated a mean alongshore divergence from April to July 1979, consistent with long-term mean geostrophic flow patterns for the area. In general, currents were correlated alongshore but a two-week event in May, which manifested itself differently at the two sites, was suggestive of the impingement of an eddy onto the continental shelf. Currents and winds were poorly correlated in general.Temperature variation at sites along 700 km of coast showed a strong seasonal variation with the winter cool period extended by spring upwelling. Days-to-weeks scale fluctuations were similar at the five northernmost sites and correlations alongshore were significant for separations of up to 400 km. No evidence of propagating events was found in coastal temperatures or in currents.     

Environmental challenges and priorities for action

The oceans have a major influence on world climate and are an important source of food, most of which comes from the coastal zones. These zones, and the traditional, sustainable, life-styles of the fishing communities that live there, are under immense and growing pressure. Urbanization, pollution, sea level rise, and the destruction of natural coast defences and fish nursery grounds are undermining sustainability. Although chemical pollution in some areas, with some substances, is falling it remains a serious problem over the world as a whole.

The United Nations Conference on the Human Environment, held at Rio de Janeiro in June 1992, recognized the need for more effective protection of the resources of the coastal seas, and a number of specific actions are set out in Agenda 21. But action is still not being taken on a scale which matches the problem. There are four probable reasons: first, the sea is still assumed to be too big to damage; second, jurisdiction is inadequate; third, serious national and international conflicts of interest remain; and fourth, economic distortions hamper sound judgement. The northern seas, which suffer less from these problems, should be demonstration areas for sound marine resource management.     

A numerical study of the effect of the marginal sea on coastal upwelling in a non-linear inertial model

Inertia theory and the finite element method are used to investigate the effect of marginal seas on coastal upwelling. In contrast to much previous research on wind-driven upwelling, this paper does not consider localized wind effects, but focuses instead on temperature stratification, the slope of the continental shelf, and the background flow field. Finite element method, which is both faster and more robust than finite difference method in solving problems with complex boundary conditions, was developed to solve the partial differential equations that govern coastal upwelling. Our results demonstrate that the environment of the marginal sea plays an important role in coastal upwelling. First, the background flow at the outer boundary is the main driving force of upwelling. As the background flow strengthens, the overall velocity of cross-shelf flow increases and the horizontal scale of the upwelling front widens, and this is accompanied by the movement of the upwelling front further offshore. Second, temperature stratification determines the direction of cross-shelf flows, with strong stratification favoring a narrow and intense upwelling zone. Third, the slope of the continental shelf plays an important role in controlling the intensity of upwelling and the height that upwelling may reach: the steeper the slope, the lower height of the upwelling. An additional phenomenon that should be noted is upwelling separation, which occurs even without a local wind force in the nonlinear model.     

Sediment dispersal from a typical Mediterranean flood: The Têt River,Gulf of Lions

This paper describes an integrated study of a typical Mediterranean flood event in the Gulf of Lions. A flood with a 5-year return interval occurred in the Têt River basin and adjacent inner-shelf in the Gulf of Lions, northwest Mediterranean, during April 2004. Data were collected during this flood as part of event-response investigations of the EU-funded Eurostrataform (European Margin Strata Formation) project. Southeasterly storm winds led to a flood which directly modified the inner-shelf hydrodynamics. Sediment delivery to the coastal zone during this flood represented more than half of the mean annual discharge of the Têt River to the Gulf of Lions. This river transported a large amount of sand in suspension, representing 25% of the total suspended load, and as bedload representing 8% of the total load, during this event. Sand introduced in the nearshore was transported northwards during the peak storm and nourished a small delta. Fine sediments were separated from coarse sediments at the river mouth, and were advected southwards and seawards by the counter-clockwise general circulation. Fine-grained sediments were transported via a hypopycnal plume along the coast towards the southern tip of the Gulf of Lions and the Cap Creus canyon. The along-shore currents, which intensified from north to south of the Gulf of Lions, particularly between the Cap Creus promontory and the Cap Creus canyon, favoured the transfer of fine-grained sediments from the continental shelf of the Gulf of Lions towards the continental slope. Our results show that floods with a few-year return interval in small coastal rivers can play a significant role in the transport of sediments on microtidal continental margins and their export from the shelf through canyons.     

A multivariate analysis of planktonic molluscan distribution in the Middle Atlantic Bight

Faunal structure is described for the planktonic molluscs of the Middle Atlantic Bight based on two years of seasonal data from the continental shelf. Collection and taxa groups are constructed using numerical classification and reciprocal averaging ordination. Discriminant analysis is used to relate surface collection groups to physical variables, then taxa group distribution among these collection groups is analyzed by nodal fidelity analysis. The areal distribution of dominant species is presented by season, as is their surface temperature-salinity distribution.Four communities are recognized on the continental shelf. A subarctic community, including Limacina retroversa, Paedoclione doliiformis, and Clione limacina, is advected down the central shelf region from the northeast. A Gulf Stream community of weak vertical migrators, including Limacina trochiformis, Cavolinia longirostris, Creseis conica, Atlanta peroni, and A. gaudichaudi, is introduced onto the shelf in occasional intrusions across the shelf-edge front. A depth-limited warm-water community of strong vertical migrators, including Limacina inflata, L. bulimoides, L. lesueuri, and Cavolinia inflexa is generally confined offshore of the 100-m isobath since the extent of their daily vertical migration is greater than the bottom depths on the continental shelf. A coastal community, including the larvae of Loligo pealei and of Ensis directus is found in coastal water of local origin and is generally confined within a coastal boundary layer.     

Atmospheric input of nitrogen into the North Sea: ANICE project overview

The aim of the atmospheric nitrogen inputs into the coastal ecosystem (ANICE) project is to improve transport–chemistry models that estimate nitrogen deposition to the sea. To achieve this, experimental and modelling work is being conducted which aims to improve understanding of the processes involved in the chemical transformation, transport and deposition of atmospheric nitrogen compounds. Of particular emphasis within ANICE is the influence of coastal zone processes. Both short episodes with high deposition and chronic nitrogen inputs are considered in the project. The improved transport–chemistry models will be used to assess the atmospheric inputs of nitrogen compounds into the European regional seas (the North Sea is studied as a prototype) and evaluate the impact of various emission reduction strategies on the atmospheric nitrogen loads. Assessment of the impact of atmospheric nitrogen on coastal ecosystems will be based on comparisons of phytoplankton nitrogen requirements, other external nitrogen inputs to the ANICE area of interest and the direct nitrogen fluxes provided by ANICE. Selected results from both the experimental and modelling components are presented here. The experimental results show the large spatial and temporal variability in the concentrations of gaseous nitrogen compounds, and their influences on fluxes. Model calculations show the strong variation of both concentrations and gradients of nitric acid at fetches of up to 25 km. Aerosol concentrations also show high temporal variability and experimental evidence for the reaction between nitric acid and sea salt aerosol is provided by size-segregated aerosol composition measured at both sides of the North Sea. In several occasions throughout the experimental period, air mass back trajectory analysis showed connected flow between the two sampling sites (the Weybourne Atmospheric Observatory on the North Norfolk coast of the UK and Meetpost Noordwijk, a research tower at 9 km off the Dutch coast). Results from the METRAS/SEMA mesoscale chemistry transport model system for one of these cases are presented. Measurements of aerosol and rain chemical composition, using equipment mounted on a commercial ferry, show variations in composition across the North Sea. These measurements have been compared to results obtained with the transport–chemistry model ACDEP which calculates the atmospheric inputs into the whole North Sea area. Finally, the results will be made available for the assessment of the impact of atmospheric nitrogen on coastal ecosystems.     

Dissolved nutrient distributions in the Central English Channel

Samples for analysis of nitrate plus nitrite, dissolved reactive phosphate and silicate were collected in the English Channel along a transect between Cherbourg and the Isle of Wight, within the framework of the FLUXMANCHE II programme. A total of 130 samples were obtained during 15 cruises between December 1994 and December 1995, thus giving a full seasonal coverage. Nutrient concentrations were generally highest on the UK side of the Channel, where riverine inputs were greatest. Nutrient fluxes across this transect from west to east for the winter period, when the nutrients exhibited quasi-conservative behaviour, were calculated using the N, P and Si data, and estimates of water fluxes derived from a two-dimensional hydrodynamic numerical model. A gyre system off the Isle of Wight led to localised east to west fluxes of nutrients. Although nutrient concentrations are lower in the central Channel than in the coastal zones, the nutrient fluxes are greatest through this central zone because of the higher fluxes of water through this part of the transect. The fluxes obtained through this mid-Channel transect are greater than fluxes estimated through the Straits of Dover for a similar winter period as part of the earlier FLUXMANCHE I (December 1990– March 1991) programme, suggesting significant variability from year to year, and/or removal of nutrients in the eastern Channel.     

A qualitative assessment of seismic risk along the Peninsular coast of India, south of 19°N

Many earthquakes have been recorded from the coastal margin of the Indian peninsular shield during the last 200 years. Largely made up of Precambrian assemblages with variable cover of Jurassic to Quaternary sedimentary rocks and Cretaceous-Eocene volcanics, the peninsular shield was long held to be aseismic. Recent measurements, however, show that this continental fragment is being pushed northeastward by the Carlsberg and Central Indian ridges; and the Indo-Myanmar subduction zone is exerting vigorous slab pull towards the east. Repeated cycles of sea level change during the Quaternary have also induced continuing hydro-isostatic adjustment due to variable melt water loading in the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian sea. All these forces produce space-time fluctuations of strain around many small to large faults, which occur in the upper crust of the shield. Some of the faults have been intermittently active (during the past 100 kyr); others were active earlier. Although the Shillong plateau and the associated hill ranges of northeastern India and Myanmar are subject to the maximum seismic hazard, the peninsular coast is also vulnerable to intermittent seismicity. We present illustrative evidence of some active faults, which are recognisable (a) on coastal land by displaced Pleistocene weathered cover, hot springs, leakages of native mercury and allochthonous geochemical anomalies of base metals and (b) offshore below the inner shelf by horst-shaped uplifted segments and intra-formational slump folds on and below the top shallow seismic (3.5 kHz) reflector. On the other hand, there are long stretches of the east coast at Vishakhapatnam and Manappad Point, which do not show active faults. Step-like marine terraces, which occur up to+6 m above the low tide level (LTL) preserve records of relative sea level fluctuations during the Holocene and the Last Interglacial. In such sectors, absence of tectonic disturbance during the last 100 ka is also corroborated by lateral continuity of shallow seismic reflectors below the inner shelf over many kilometers. Since authentic historical (200–1000 years B.P.) records of seismicity along the Peninsular coast are virtually unavailable, the likely recurrence interval between earthquakes in each sector cannot be gauged. We, therefore, propose a scale of seismic risk, based on geometry of the mappable faults and available seismic records of the last two centuries. These could be used in combination to rank the densely populated coastal tracts sector-wise.     

The extreme 2013/2014 winter storms: hydrodynamic forcing and coastal response along the southwest coast of England

The southwest coast of England was subjected to an unusually energetic sequence of Atlantic storms during the 2013/2014 winter, with the 8‐week period from mid‐December to mid‐February representing the most energetic period since at least 1953. A regional analysis of the hydrodynamic forcing and morphological response of these storms along the SW coast of England highlighted the importance of both storm‐ and site‐specific conditions. The key factor that controls the Atlantic storm wave conditions along the south coast of southwest England is the storm track. Energetic inshore wave conditions along this coast require a relatively southward storm track which enables offshore waves to propagate up the English Channel relatively unimpeded. The timing of the storm in relation to the tidal stage is also important, and coastal impacts along the macro‐tidal southwest coast of England are maximised when the peak storm waves coincide with spring high tide. The role of storm surge is limited and rarely exceeds 1 m. The geomorphic storm response along the southwest coast of England displayed considerable spatial variability; this is mainly attributed to the embayed nature of the coastline and the associated variability in coastal orientation. On west‐facing beaches typical of the north coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves approached the coastline shore‐parallel, and the prevailing storm response was offshore sediment transport. Many of these north coast beaches experienced extensive beach and dune erosion, and some of the beaches were completely stripped of sediment, exposing a rocky shore platform. On the south coast, the westerly Atlantic storm waves refract and diffract to become southerly inshore storm waves and for the southeast‐facing beaches this results in large incident wave angles and strong eastward littoral drift. Many south coast beaches exhibited rotation, with the western part of the beaches eroding and the eastern part accreting. © 2015 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

Analysis of the effect of the coastal discontinuity on near-surface flow

Conditional sampling is used herein to examine the effect of fetch, stability, and surface roughness changes on wind speeds in the coastal zone. Using data from an offshore wind farm it is shown that at a distance of 1.2–1.7 km from the coast, up to a height of 20 m above the surface, differences in wind speed distributions from onshore and offshore masts are statistically significant for flow moving offshore under all stability conditions. In contrast, differences between the distribution of wind speeds at 38 and 48 m at masts located at the coast and in the coastal zone are not significant for flow moving offshore, indicating that flow at these heights is not fully adjusted to the change in surface roughness (land to sea). These findings are in accordance with calculations of the internal boundary layer (IBL) height which indicate that the IBL would frequently be below the two upper measurement heights at 1.2–1.6 km from the coast. The analyses presented here indicate that the wind speed distribution at a potential offshore wind farm site is not solely dependent on fetch (distance from the coast) but also depends on the stability climate.     

Southern Ocean warming and increased ice shelf basal melting in the twenty-first and twenty-second centuries based on coupled ice-ocean finite-element modelling

We utilise a global finite-element sea ice–ocean model (FESOM), focused on the Antarctic marginal seas, to analyse projections of ice shelf basal melting in a warmer climate. Ice shelf–ocean interaction is described using a three-equation system with a diagnostic computation of temperature and salinity at the ice–ocean interface. A tetrahedral mesh with a minimumhorizontal resolution of 4 km and hybrid vertical coordinates is used. Ice shelf draft, cavity geometry, and global ocean bathymetry have been derived from the RTopo-1 data set. The model is forced with the atmospheric output from two climate models: (1) the Hadley Centre Climate Model (HadCM3) and (2) Max Planck Institute’s ECHAM5/MPI-OM coupled climate model. Results from experiments forced with their twentieth century output are used to evaluate the modelled present-day ocean state. Sea ice coverage is largely realistic in both simulations; modelled ice shelf basal melt rates compare well with observations in both cases, but are consistently smaller for ECHAM5/MPI-OM. Projections for future ice shelf basal melting are computed using atmospheric output for the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) scenarios E1 and A1B. In simulations forced with ECHAM5 data, trends in ice shelf basal melting are small. In contrast, decreasing convection along the Antarctic coast in HadCM3 scenarios leads to a decreasing salinity on the continental shelf and to intrusions of warm deep water of open ocean origin. In the case of the Filchner–Ronne Ice Shelf (FRIS), this water reaches deep into the cavity, so that basal melting increases by a factor of 4 to 6 compared to the present value of about 90 Gt/year. By the middle of the twenty-second century, FRIS becomes the dominant contributor to total ice shelf basal mass loss in these simulations. Our results indicate that the surface freshwater fluxes on the continental shelves may be crucial for the future of especially the large cold water ice shelves in the Southern Ocean.     

Patos Lagoon outflow within the Río de la Plata plume using an airborne salinity mapper: Observing an embedded plume

Major river systems discharging into continental shelf waters frequently form buoyant coastal currents that propagate along the continental shelf in the direction of coastal trapped wave propagation (with the coast on the right/left, in the northern/southern hemisphere). The combined flow of the Uruguay and Paraná Rivers, which discharges freshwater into the Río de la Plata estuary (Lat. ∼36°S), often gives rise to a buoyant coastal current (the ‘Plata plume’) that extends northward along the continental shelf off Uruguay and Southern Brazil. Depending upon the prevailing rainfall, wind and tidal conditions, the Patos/Mirim Lagoon complex (Lat. ∼32°S) may also produce a freshwater outflow plume that expands across the inner continental shelf. Under these circumstances the Patos outflow plume can be embedded in temperature, salinity and current fields that are strongly influenced by the larger Plata plume. The purpose of this paper is to present observations of such an embedded plume structure and to determine the dynamical characteristics of the ambient and embedded plumes.     

Sub-tidal motion on the Scottish continental shelf,August–September 1971

Simultaneous 28-day records of current and bottom pressure from four positions spanning 300 km near the shelf edge, and sea level at five coastal sites, show sub-tidal variations forming a coherent but limited response to the moderate wind stress over the shelf.