不规则波情况下沿岸流不稳定运动传播方向的研究

本文以沿岸流不稳定运动实验中流速仪采集到的不规则波的流速时间历程为基础,利用相关性分析,得到两个不同位置处对应流速时间历程的最大相关系数和延迟时间,进而分析沿岸流不稳定运动在1∶40和1∶100平直斜坡上的传播方向,并且分析了其随入射波高、周期的变化。结果表明沿岸流不稳定运动在海岸垂向环流系统的作用下,其传播方向会向海方向偏移,与岸线角度大约在0°到45°之间,且在1∶40和1∶100坡情况下,沿岸流不稳定运动的偏移角分别随入射周期和波高的增加而增加,但1∶100坡的增加幅值较小,大约为1∶40坡情况下的1/2。     

沿岸流流速垂向分布的实验研究

进行了沿岸流模型实验,测量沿岸流流速的垂向分布.采用Faria等(1996)的方法对实验结果进行了分析,将水深分为上层和下层两部分:下层采用对数分布来表达沿岸流的垂向分布;上层考虑了波浪引起的自由表面的波动,使流速分布包括了修正的对数分布和质量输移速度两部分.对实验结果得到的相对粗糙度与sleath(1991)的经验公式结果进行了对比,也对摩阻流速结果与已有经验公式计算结果的进行了对比.     

沿岸流与海带养殖关系的研究：Ⅱ、流速对海带生长的影响

本研究的第一部分，报告了山东省日照县石臼所湾海带养殖区的沿岸流的研究结果，提出了该海区海带养殖筏合理设置的措施。经过二年的生产证明，合理设筏(依主流轴向顺流设筏)后，改善了养殖区的流水条件，促进了海带的生长，减轻了风浪灾害，使该海区海带的产量得到提高。1980—1981年我们又在山东省荣成县俚岛湾，进行了不同流速条件下的海带生长与产量的定量试验，本文即报告此项研究的结果。     

海岸沿岸流垂向分布实验研究

进行海岸沿岸流模型实验,利用ADV(acoustic doppler velocimeter)测量了沿岸流流速沿垂直岸线方向多个断面的垂向分布。采用Faria等的方法对实验结果进行了分析,将沿岸流沿水深分为上层和下层两部分:下层采用对数分布来表达沿岸流的垂向分布;上层考虑了波浪引起的自由表面的波动,流速分布为修正的对数分布。最后对沿岸流垂向分布特征做了分析,并与Visser和Hamilton的实验结果做了对比。     

规则波和不规则波作用下消波建筑物前的波高分析

消波建筑物在国内外已得到广泛应用。本文采用近似方法分析了明基床上直立式消波建筑物前的波高及消波室内的波高，从而确定建筑物的消波效果。并在规则波的基础上将成果推广至不规则波作用下的情况。     

不规则波和流作用于圆柱上的正向力及横向力

本文研究了垂直圆柱体在稳定流与不规则波共同作用下的受力问题,给出了适用于这一流场下KC数的定义.本文利用Morison方程分析桩柱在不规则波和流共存场中受力的计算,给出了速度力系数C_d、惯性力系数C_m及横向力系数(C_L)_max及(C_L)_1/3随KC数的变化情况.本文还探讨了波流联合作用下横向力与合力特征值和正向力特征值的关系.     

不规则波远破波对直墙的作用

基于物模试验、理论推理、因次分析和工程实例验证等综合分析方法,就不规则波远破波对直墙作用力的计算方法进行了研究,用推荐的方法得到的结果与工程实例符合较好.     

多向不规则波作用下斜坡式建筑物护面块体的稳定性

试验研究了扭工字块体、钩连块体、四脚空心方块和块石等四种护面块体在五种波向角(0°,15°,30°,45°和60°)的斜向波和多向不规则波作用下的稳定性,给出了四种护面块体稳定重量的实用计算方法.     

不规则波作用下明基床上开孔沉箱垂直力分析

通过水槽物理模型试验,对不规则波作用下明基床上开孔沉箱所受到的波浪力进行了较为系统的试验研究,分析讨论了开孔沉箱总水平力峰(谷)值时刻对应的总垂直力与基床相对高度、开孔率、波陡、相对水深、消浪室相对宽度等影响因素之间的关系,并与暗基床的研究成果做了对比讨论,给出了明基床上开孔沉箱总垂直力比值(总水平力极值时刻对应的总垂直力/总垂直力极值)与各影响因素之间的计算关系式,研究结果可为工程应用提供参考。     

斜向不规则波对直墙作用的实验研究

通过长峰不规则波和方向波谱对直墙作用的实验研究 ,分别给出了每延米斜向不规则波波浪力与正向力之比 ,方向波谱波浪力与斜向长峰不规则波波浪力之间的关系 ,通过与规则波实验结果的比较给出了斜向规则波与不规则波波浪力之间的相对关系 ;并对斜向不规则波的反射系数与正向波时的变化作出了分析     

磨刀门口夏冬季沿岸流特征及成因分析

根据2011—2012年磨刀门口的夏、冬季大、中、小潮定点观测资料,对欧拉余流、斯托克斯余流以及拉格朗日余流进行分析。结果表明:（1）外海测点的欧拉余流和拉格朗日余流,冬季在各潮型下均为一致的西南沿岸方向,夏季除东、西汊道点在强径流下表现为顺汊道指向外海方向,其余外海各点仍以西南沿岸方向为主;（2）斯托克斯余流远小于欧拉余流,夏季明显大于冬季,方向基本与欧拉余流相反;（3）冬季磨刀门口海域具有稳定西南向沿岸流特征,南海东北季风的驱动作用是其形成的主要原因;夏季磨刀门口各潮型下沿岸流特征各异,其影响的主要因素为径流和风,同时地形的影响不可忽略,特别是拦门沙形成的汊道分流作用,对强径流作用下水沙输移影响十分显著。     

Laboratory study of the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a mild slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟

基于近岸不规则波浪传播的抛物型缓坡方程和两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子,对近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的波高分布进行了数值模拟,并结合实验结果对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析,结果表明采用两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子所模拟的破碎区波高与实测值均吻合良好,波浪破碎能量损耗因子及波浪破碎指标对破碎区波浪波高分布影响较明显。     

堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数试验研究

结合物理模型试验,分析斜坡坡度、波陡、相对水深、护面类型和破波参数等因素对堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数的影响规律。将常用的Van der Meer公式,Seelig公式,Postma公式和Davison公式计算值和实测值进行比较,并结合试验数据,基于有效波高和平均周期定义的Iribarren数,得出堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数经验公式。结果表明,该公式能较好地计算不规则波作用下块石和扭王块体护面堆石防波堤波浪反射系数。     

粤西阳江海域春夏季沿岸激流现象及机理分析

通过分析2018–2019年粤西阳江沿岸流海域多站点周年观测水文气象实测资料,发现2019年春季和夏季阳江沿岸流海域存在激流现象。研究结果表明：（1）2019年5月5日凌晨6时,观测站点2 m水深处流速达到164.7 cm/s,9 m水深处流速达到127.6 cm/s。2019年8月1日凌晨4时至5时,阳江沙扒海域2 m水深处流速达到161.8 cm/s,9 m水深处流速达到156.6 cm/s。（2）粤西沿岸流阳江20～30 m水深海域春夏季突发性强流具有典型的激流特征。激流在涨急时刻发生在海洋表层,持续2～4 h。（3）在西南风与东北风转换期间,粤西沿岸海域容易形成海水幅聚带,近岸海域海平面上升,外海海域海平面下降,强劲的自岸向外水平压强梯度力导致近岸海水加强向西运动,从而产生激流。     

Interactions of nonlinear gravity waves and uniform current in Lagrangian system

The particle trajectory on a weakly nonlinear progressive surface wave obliquely interacting with a uniform current is studied by using an EulerLagrange transformation. The thirdorder asymptotic solution is a periodic bounded function of Lagrangian labels and time, which imply that the entire solution is uniformlyvalid. The explicit parametric solution highlights the trajectory of a water particle and mass transport associated with a particle displacement can now be obtained directly in Lagrangian form. The angular frequency and Lagrangian mean level of the particle motion in Lagrangian form differ from those of the Eulerian. The variations in the water particle orbits resulting from the oblique interaction with a steady uniform current of different magnitudes are also investigated.     

Cross-shore separation of adult and juvenile euphausiids in a shelf-break alongshore current

Euphausiids are an important component of the zooplankton in boundary current upwelling regions, including the Pacific Northwest continental margin. Many aspects of euphausiid distribution and ecology in this region are well known. However, some features of their spatial and temporal distribution are less understood:

• How and why euphausiids aggregate near the shelf-break upwelling center.

• How and why there is (within an alongshore band of high abundance of all stages) spatial segregation of adults and larvae.

• Why, despite spatial association with upwelling, euphausiid abundance off Vancouver Island is weakly or negatively correlated at interannual time scales with upwelling intensity.

To address these, we made km-resolution surveys of adult, juvenile, and larval euphausiid horizontal distributions, water properties, and currents across the Vancouver Island shelf break in mid-to-late spring of two successive years. Survey timing was before (1997) and after (1998) the spring transition to upwelling conditions, and near the annual spring reproductive peak. In both years, early developmental stages occupied an alongshore band that was offset from the late juveniles and adults. The direction of the offset differed between the two surveys. Early life history stages (larvae and early juveniles) were shoreward of adults in April 1997 (downwelling-conditions), but seaward of adults in May 1998 (upwelling-conditions). Separation distance (order 5–10 km) was consistent with expected differences in cumulative wind-driven (and vertically-sheared) cross-shore transport of surface-dwelling larvae and early juveniles vs. transport of diel migratory late juveniles and adults. Separation direction was consistent with recent history of winds and Ekman transport—shoreward during poleward winds, and seaward into blue water (and usually into a strong equatorward current) during equatorward winds.     

Experimental researches on reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater under regular and irregular waves

A series of regular and irregular wave experiments are conducted to study the reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater (QCB) in comparison with those of semi-circular breakwater (SCB). Based on regular wave tests, the reflection and transmission characteristics of QCB are analyzed and a few influencing factors are investigated. Then, the wave energy dissipation as wave passing over the breakwater is discussed based on the hydraulic coefficients of QCB and SCB. In irregular wave experiments, the reflection coefficients of QCB and their spectrums are studied. Finally, the comparisons between the experimental results and numerical simulations for QCB under regular and irregular wave conditions are presented.     

多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟

波浪波动时间过程及波列的模拟,对于开展实际波浪对于工程建筑物的作用具有重要的意义。本文采用线性叠加的单叠加模型,建立了多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟方法。基于理论模拟的规则波、单向不规则波和多向不规则波,验证了波浪确定性模拟方法的有效性。定性地对比分析了模拟波列和已知波列的一致性;定量地研究了模拟波浪在空间范围rr/L_s的误差分布情况(rr表示指定位置与给定位置的空间距离,L_s为有效波长)。并且建议,采用本文方法进行波浪确定性模拟时,最佳的浪高仪间距应小于0.12L_s。