Numerical study of vegetation damping effects on solitary wave run-up using the nonlinear shallow water equations

Vegetation damping effects on propagating water waves have been investigated by many researchers. This paper investigates the effects of damping due to vegetation on solitary water wave run-up via numerical simulation. The numerical model is based on an implementation of Morison's formulation for vegetation induced inertia and drag stresses in the nonlinear shallow water equations. The numerical model is solved via a finite volume method on a Cartesian cut cell mesh. The accuracy of the numerical scheme and the effects of the vegetation terms in the present model are validated by comparison with experiment results. The model is then applied to simulate a solitary wave propagating on a plane slope with vegetation. The sensitivity of solitary wave run-up to plant height, diameter and stem density is investigated by comparison of the numerical results for different patterns of vegetation. The numerical results show that vegetation can effectively reduce solitary wave propagation velocity and that solitary wave run-up is decreased with increase of plant height in water and also diameter and stem density.     

基于弱非线性RIDE模型的植物消浪数值模拟研究

通过基于考虑波浪非线性频散关系的椭圆型缓坡方程数学模型(RIDE),在原高阶的控制方程中添加植物阻力项,建立了模拟植物区波浪传播的数学模型(RIDE-VEG)。将计算结果与规则波在植物场中变形的水槽试验数据进行比较,验证良好,并分析了植物区特征参数对于波浪传播的影响。针对相对淹没度、植物密度和波浪周期等因素对波高衰减的影响进行敏感性分析,结果表明其三者对于消浪效果的影响是单调的,但消浪效果对于波浪周期的敏感程度则较其余二者为弱。与其他学者的研究相比,忽略流场效应的RIDE-VEG模型较其它的模型计算更为简便,且计算结果较为满意。     

Laboratory and numerical studies of wave damping by emergent and near-emergent wetland vegetation

Wetlands protect mainland areas from erosion and damage by damping waves. Yet, this critical role of wetland is not fully understood at present, and a means for reliably determining wave damping by vegetation in engineering practice is not yet available. Laboratory experiments were conducted to measure wave attenuation resulting from synthetic emergent and nearly emergent wetland vegetation under a range of wave conditions and plant stem densities. The laboratory data were analyzed using linear wave theory to quantify bulk drag coefficients and with a nonlinear Boussinesq model to determine numerical friction factors to better represent wetland vegetation in engineering analysis.     

Static wave setup with emphasis on damping effects by vegetation and bottom friction

Wave setup can contribute significantly to elevated water levels during severe storms. In Florida we have found that wave setup can be 30% to 60% of the total 100-year storm surge. In areas with relatively narrow continental shelves, such as many locations along the Pacific Coast of the United States, wave setup can be an even larger proportionate contributor of anomalous water levels during major storms. Wave setup can be considered as comprising two components, with the first being the well-known static wave setup resulting from the transfer of breaking wave momentum to the water column. The second, oscillating component, is a result of nonlinear transfer of energy and momentum from the primary (linear) spectrum to waves with length and time scales on the order of the wave groups.Static wave setup is the focus of this paper with emphasis on effects due to internal or surface forces that act on the wave system and cause both dissipation of wave energy and transfer of momentum. In particular, the effects of wave damping by vegetation and bottom friction are considered. Linear wave theory is applied to illustrate these effects and, for shallow water waves, the setup is reduced by two-thirds the amount that would occur if the same amount of energy dissipation occurred in the absence of forces. Effects of nonlinear waves are then considered and it is found, for a shallow water wave of approximately one-half breaking height, that a wave setdown rather than setup occurs due to damping by vegetation and bottom friction.The problem of wave setup as waves propagate through vegetation was stimulated by studies to establish hazard zones associated with 100-year storm events along the shorelines of the United States. These storms can generate elevated water levels exceeding 4 to 6 m and can result in overland wave propagation. As these waves propagate through vegetation and damp, the question arose as to the contribution of this process to elevated mean water levels through additional wave setup.     

片状分布植被对孤立波爬高影响的数值模拟研究

近岸植被对波浪爬坡具有一定的衰减作用。在自然界中,由于植被的死亡、再生或人为破坏等原因,近岸植被通常呈片状分布,且其内部分布也是不均匀的。本文以完全非线性Boussinesq方程为基础,引入植被作用项,建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数值模型,验证了模型可靠性,进而采用该模型模拟分析了片状分布植被对孤立波爬高的影响。数值模拟结果表明,片状分布植被能有效减小孤立波爬高;对于均匀分布的片状植被,高密度片状植被对孤立波爬高的消减效果优于低密度片状植被;对于相同密度、不同分布形式的片状植被,均匀分布的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于不均匀分布的片状植被;对于不均匀分布的片状植被,前密后疏的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于前疏后密的片状植被。     

Numerical study for vegetation effects on coastal wave propagation by using nonlinear Boussinesq model

The vegetation has important impacts on coastal wave propagation. In the paper, the sensitivities of coastal wave attenuation due to vegetation to incident wave height, wave period and water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are numerically studied by using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. The model is based on the implementation of drag resistances due to vegetation in the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation where the drag resistance is provided by the Morison’s formulation for rigid structure induced drag stresses. The model is firstly validated by comparing with the experimental results for wave propagation in vegetation zones. Subsequently, the model is used to simulate waves with different height, period propagating on vegetation zones with different water depth and vegetation configurations. The sensitivities of wave attenuation to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are investigated based on the numerical results. The numerical results indicate that wave height attenuation due to vegetation is sensitive to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations, and attenuation ratio of wave height is increased monotonically with increases of incident wave height and decreases of water depth, while it is complex for wave period. Moreover, more vegetation segments can strengthen the interaction of vegetation and wave in a certain range.     

Numerical simulation of wave damping over porous seabeds

This paper presents a study of wave damping over porous seabeds by using a two-dimensional numerical model. In this model, the flow outside of porous media is described by the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations. The spatially averaged Navier–Stokes equations, in which the presence of porous media is considered by including additional inertia and nonlinear friction forces, is derived and implemented for the porous flow. Unlike the earlier models, the present model explicitly represents the flow resistance dependency on Reynolds number in order to cover wider ranges of porous flows. The numerical model is validated against available theories and experimental data. The comparison between the numerical results and the theoretical results indicates that the omission or linearization of the nonlinear resistance terms in porous flow models, which is the common practice in most of analytical models, can lead to significant errors in estimating wave damping rate. The present numerical model is used to simulate nonlinear wave interaction with porous seabeds and it is found that the numerical results compare well with the experimental data for different wave nonlinearity. The additional numerical tests are also conducted to study the effects of wavelength, seabed thickness and Reynolds number on wave damping.     

随机波作用下埋管海床动态响应及液化研究

基于广义Biot动力理论和Longuet-Higgins线性叠加模型,构建波浪-海床-管线动态响应的有限元计算模型,求解随机波作用下,多层砂质海床中管线周围土体孔隙水压力和竖向有效应力的分布。采用基于超静孔隙水压力的液化判断准则,得出液化区的最大深度及横向范围,从而判断海床土体液化情况。考虑海洋波浪的随机性,将海床视为多孔介质,海床动态响应计算模型采用u-p模式,孔隙水压力和位移视为场变量。并考虑孔隙水的可压缩性、海床弹性变形、土体速度、土体加速度以及流体速度的影响,忽略孔隙流体惯性作用。参数研究表明:土体渗透系数、饱和度以及有效波高等参数对海床土体孔隙水压力、竖向有效应力和液化区域分布有显著影响。     

考虑植物影响的波浪和波生流迭加条件下水动力特性数值模拟研究

海岸湿地是近海地区重要的生态系统,由于潮流、波浪尤其是非连续水流与植被的相互作用,导致该海域的水动力环境复杂多变。本文发展了一个深度平均二维波流耦合数学模型,模拟湿地海域波浪和波生沿岸流的运动特性。水动力模型中植物拖曳力作为源项放入动量方程中,在波浪作用量平衡方程增加波能耗散项用于解释水生植物对波浪产生的阻力作用。在动态耦合模型中,波浪模型为潮流模型提供波浪辐射应力、波高、波浪周期等数据信息,潮流模型为波浪模型提供计算的水位和流速,可以达到双向动态耦合。本文发展的波流耦合模型通过三个实验室试验数据加以验证,计算结果和实验数据吻合较好,在波浪、波生流和植物迭加条件下,所建模型能够有效地模拟波浪、沿岸流等不同现象。     

Numerical simulation of wave transformation and runup incorporating porous media wave absorber and turbulence models

A numerical wave tank is first established using the Navier–Stokes equations and the VOF method assuming laminar flow. The standard k–ε, realizable k–ε and RNG k–ε turbulent models are then incorporated to the numerical tank. An effective numerical method for wave absorption utilizing the energy-dissipating property of porous media is also included. To validate the accuracy of the proposed models, the propagation of a solitary wave, where analytical solution is available for comparison, is first simulated. This is followed by the simulation of irregular wave runup on a composite seawall, wave propagation over submerged bars and wave refraction and diffraction over an elliptic shoal, where experimental data are available for comparison. All computed results agree well with either the analytical solution or the experimental data.     

波浪与带窄缝多箱体作用共振现象的模拟研究

针对波浪与带有窄缝多箱体结构作用产生的流体共振问题,建立了基于域内源造波技术的二维非线性时域数值波浪水槽模型,其中自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,窄缝内流体引入人工阻尼来等效由于涡旋运动和流动分离引起的黏性耗散,计算域边界采用高阶边界元进行离散。通过模拟三箱体间两窄缝内相对波高变化,并与已发表的数值与实验结果对比,验证了本模型的准确性。同时通过大量的数值计算,分析了箱体数量对窄缝内水体共振频率、共振波高以及对结构反射波高和透射波高的影响。     

根、茎、叶定量概化植物模型沿程不规则波消减实验

在理论分析的基础上利用根、茎、叶均可量化的植物模型,开展波浪水槽实验。通过改变实验水深、入射波高、植物分布密度等因素,研究不规则波在植物群传播时沿程波高衰减特性,利用快速傅里叶变换对不规则波频谱变化情况进行分析。结果表明,各植物模型消波效果较好,但很少出现植物消波的边界效应,不规则波沿植物群的波高变化情况多数时与Mendez理论曲线不一致,植物群各部分的波能衰减情况并无固定的变化规律。此外,波能衰减集中在谱峰频率处,且入射波高越大,透射波与入射波之间的谱峰值差值越大,但透射波的频谱宽度与入射波相比无明显变化。本研究可为采用近岸植物消波护岸提供一定的理论依据。     

基于非静压模型的非淹没刚性植物消波特性数值模拟研究

基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE,设计不同的计算工况,系统研究了规则波与非规则波作用下,非淹没刚性植物的消波特性。将计算结果和实验数据进行对比分析,验证了非静压模型NHWAVE计算植物消波特性的准确性。进一步研究了波高、周期和水深等因素对植物消波特性的影响,探讨了植物消波特性与这些水动力因素的内在联系。结果表明:非淹没刚性植物的消波效率受波高和周期的影响较大,水深对消波效率的影响很小。由于波浪非线性的影响,基于线性波理论的消波理论模型对植物消波能力的估计偏小。     

波浪与带窄缝方箱作用共振现象的数值模拟

By introducing a source term into the Laplace equation, a two-dimensional fully nonlinear time-domain numerical wave flume (NWF) is developed to investigate the resonance induced by the interaction bet...     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone

The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform.     

强台风“珍珠”引起的近岸波浪场数值分析

台风浪的研究对于船舶航行、避风以及港口、海洋和近岸建筑物的安全有着重要的现实意义.本文基于考虑波浪折射、底部损耗及波浪破碎等的波谱模型,在充分考虑风能量输入、白帽耗散、水深诱导以及波-波间的非线性相互作用等物理过程,对袭击广东省和福建省沿海的0601号强台风“珍珠”引起的台风浪过程进行了数值模拟计算,计算结果与云澳海洋...     

深水脐带缆结构阻尼的数值与试验研究

深水动态脐带缆内部结构复杂,其阻尼特性对脐带缆的舞动以及疲劳损伤有着重要的影响。脐带缆在和流体相互作用过程中,脐带缆内部构件可能会产生滑动,进而影响脐带缆的结构阻尼,这也使得真实海况中脐带缆的舞动和疲劳是一项复杂而值得深入研究的课题。为验证有限元模型能够很好地模拟脐带缆的结构阻尼特性,在考虑内部结构单元间摩擦的基础上,利用ANSYS建立了用于中国南海某油田的脐带缆多层滑移接触摩擦模型。同时,采用自由衰减法对该动态脐带缆开展了原型试验,测得了该缆的结构阻尼比与自振周期。通过对比有限元模型计算结果与原型试验结果发现：数值模型获得的该脐带缆的结构阻尼值与试验值非常接近,这为工程中获得脐带缆结构阻尼比的值提供了好的方向。     

Numerical study of wave and longshore current interaction

Wave and longshore current interaction was examined based on the numerical models.In these models,water waves in the presence of longshore currents were modeled by parabolic mild slope equation,and wave breaking induced longshore currents were modeled by shallow water equation.Water wave provided the radiation stress gradients to drive current.Wave and longshore current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and longshore current models to a steady state.The experiments for regular and irregular breaking wave induced longshore currents by Hamilton and Ebersole（2001） and Reniers and Battjes（1997） were simulated.The numerical results indicate that the present models are effective for simulating the interaction of wave and breaking wave induced longshore currents,and the numerically simulated longshore current at wave breaking point considering wave and longshore current interaction show some disagreement with those neglecting the wave-current interaction,and the breaking wave induced longshore current effect on wave transformation is not obvious.     

Numerical modeling of multi-directional irregular waves incorporating 2-D numerical wave absorber and subgrid turbulence

In this paper, a finite difference scheme with an efficient 2-D numerical wave absorber for solving the extended Boussinesq equations as derived by Nwogu (Nwogu, O., 1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 119, 618–638) is proposed. The alternate direction iterative method combined with an efficient predictor-corrector scheme are adopted for the numerical solution of the governing differential equations. To parameterize the contribution of unresolved small-scale motions, the philosophy of the large eddy simulation is applied on the horizontal plane. The proposed method is verified by two test cases where experimental data are available for comparison. The first case is wave diffraction around a semi-infinite breakwater studied by Briggs et al. (Briggs, M.J., Thompson, E.F., Vincent, C.L., 1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 121, 23–35). The other case is wave concentration by a navigation channel as reported by Yu et al. (Yu, Y.-X., Liu, S.-X., Li, Y.S., Wai, O.W.H., 2000. Refraction and diffraction of random waves through breakwater. Ocean Engineering 27, 489–509). Numerical results agree very well with the corresponding experimental data in both cases.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence characteristics in narrow-band irregular breaking waves

Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope.