Practical sand transport formula for non-breaking waves and currents

Many existing practical sand transport formulae for the coastal marine environment are restricted to a limited range of hydrodynamic and sand conditions. This paper presents a new practical formula for net sand transport induced by non-breaking waves and currents. The formula is especially developed for cross-shore sand transport under wave-dominated conditions and is based on the semi-unsteady, half wave-cycle concept, with bed shear stress as the main forcing parameter. Unsteady phase-lag effects between velocities and concentrations, which are especially important for rippled bed and fine sand sheet-flow conditions, are accounted for through parameterisations. Recently-recognised effects on the net transport rate related to flow acceleration skewness and progressive surface waves are also included. To account for the latter, the formula includes the effects of boundary layer streaming and advection effects which occur under real waves, but not in oscillatory tunnel flows. The formula is developed using a database of 226 net transport rate measurements from large-scale oscillatory flow tunnels and a large wave flume, covering a wide range of full-scale flow conditions and uniform and graded sands with median diameter ranging from 0.13 mm to 0.54 mm. Good overall agreement is obtained between observed and predicted net transport rates with 78% of the predictions falling within a factor 2 of the measurements. For several distinctly different conditions, the behaviour of the net transport with increasing flow strength agrees well with observations, indicating that the most important transport processes in both the rippled bed and sheet flow regime are well captured by the formula. However, for some flow conditions good quantitative agreement could only be obtained by introducing separate calibration parameters. The new formula has been validated against independent net transport rate data for oscillatory flow conditions and steady flow conditions.     

Phase-lag effects in sheet flow transport

The inception of the sheet flow regime as well as the effects of the phase lag when the sheet flow regime is established were investigated for oscillatory flows and combined steady and oscillatory flows. A new criterion for the inception of sheet flow is proposed based on around 300 oscillatory flow cases from experiments. This criterion was introduced in the Camenen and Larson [Camenen, B., Larson, M., 2005. A bedload sediment transport formula for the nearshore. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 63, 249–260.] bed load formula in order to take into account phase-lag effects in the sheet flow regime. The modification of the Camenen and Larson formula significantly improves the overall agreement with data and yields a correct behavior in relation to some of the main governing parameters, which are the median grain size d₅₀, the orbital wave velocity U_w, and the wave period T_w. The calibration of the new formula was based on more than 200 experimental data values on the net sediment transport rate for a full wave cycle. A conceptual model was also proposed to estimate the ratio between sediment transport rate with and without phase lag, (r_pl = q_s,net / q_s,net,ϕ=0). This simple model provides accurate results and may be used together with any quasi-steady model for bed load transport.     

Modelling and measurement of sand transport processes over full-scale ripples in oscillatory flow

A new series of laboratory experiments was performed in the Aberdeen Oscillatory Flow Tunnel (AOFT) and the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel (LOWT) to investigate time-averaged suspended sand concentrations and transport rates over rippled beds in regular and irregular oscillatory flow. The wave-induced oscillatory near-bed flows were simulated at full-scale. Five series of experiments were carried out. During the two AOFT experimental series, ripple dimensions, ripple migration rates and net sand transport rates were measured under regular and irregular asymmetric flow for two different sand types. The three LOWT experimental series focussed on measurements of the ripple dimensions, ripple migration rates, time-averaged suspended sand concentrations and net sand transport rates under regular asymmetric and irregular weakly asymmetric flow for two different sand types. From analysis of new and other full-scale data, it is concluded that the lower part of the time- and bed-averaged concentration profile (up to two times the ripple height above the ripple crest level) has an exponential profile. A new reference concentration formula is proposed based on the formula of Bosman and Steetzel [Bosman, J.J., Steetzel, H.J., 1986. Time- and bed-averaged concentration under waves. Proc. 20th ICCE Taipei, ASCE, pp. 986–1000], which includes the grain-size influence. Furthermore, it is shown that the concentration decay length is strongly related to the ripple height and that the simple formula R_c = 1.27η gives good agreement with the data. A new transport model is proposed for the wave-related net transport over full-scale ripples based on a modified half wave cycle concept of Dibajnia and Watanabe [Dibajnia, M., Watanabe, A., 1992. Sheet flow under nonlinear waves and currents. Proc. 23rd ICCE Venice, ASCE, pp. 2015–2028; Dibajnia, M., Watanabe, A., 1996. A transport rate formula for mixed sands. Proc. 25th ICCE Orlando, ASCE, pp. 3791–3804]. The magnitudes of the half wave cycle transport contributions are related to the grain-related Shields parameter, the degree of wave asymmetry and a newly defined vortex suspension parameter P, which is the ratio between the ripple height and the median grain-size. The new model has been calibrated using transport data from the new regular flow experiments and has subsequently been validated using other data, including measurements from irregular flow experiments. The new model is seen to perform better overall than existing practical models for ripple regime net sand transport.     

Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow

New experiments were carried out in the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel of WL|Delft Hydraulics (scale 1:1) using asymmetric 2nd-order Stokes waves. The main aim was to gain a better understanding of size-selective sediment transport processes under oscillatory plane-bed/sheet-flow conditions. The new data show that for uniform sand sizes between 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm, measured net transport rates are hardly affected by the grain size and are proportional to the third-order velocity moment. However for finer grains (D = 0.13 mm) net sand transport rates change from the ‘onshore’ direction into the ‘offshore’ direction in the high velocity range. A new measuring technique for sediment concentrations, based on the measurement of electro-resistance (see [McLean, S.R., Ribberink, J.S., Dohmen-Janssen, C.M. and Hassan, W.N.M., 2001. Sediment transport measurements within the sheet flow layer under waves and currents. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Eng., ISSN 0733-950X]), was developed further for the improved measurement of sediment dynamics inside the sheet-flow layer. This technique enabled the measurements of particle velocities during the complete wave cycle. It is observed that for long period waves (T = 12.0 s), time-dependent concentrations inside the sheet-flow layer are nearly in phase with the time-dependent flow velocities. As the wave period decreases, the sediment entrainment from the bed as well as the deposition process back to the bed lags behind the wave motion more and more. The new data show that size-gradation has almost no effect on the net total transport rates, provided the grain sizes of the sand mixture are in the range of 0.2 < D < 1.0 mm. However, if very fine grains (D = 0.13 mm) are present in the mixture, net total transport rates of graded sand are generally reduced in comparison with uniform sand with the same D₅₀. The transport rates of individual size fractions of a mixture are strongly influenced by the presence of other fractions in a mixture. Fine particles in sand mixtures are relatively less transported than in that uniform sand case, while the opposite occurs for coarse fractions in a mixture. The relative contribution of the coarse grains to the net total transport is therefore larger than would be expected based on their volume proportion in the original sand mixture. This partial transport behaviour is opposite to what is generally observed in uni-directional (e.g. river) flows. This is caused by vertical sorting of grain sizes in the upper bed layer and in the sheet flow and suspension layers. Kinematic sorting is believed to be responsible for the development of a coarse surface layer on top of a relatively fine sub-layer, providing in this way a relatively large flow exposure for the coarser sizes. Furthermore fine grains are suspended more easily than coarse grains to higher elevations in the flow where they are subject to increasing phase-lag effects (settling lags). The latter also leads to reduced net transport rates of these finer sizes.     

Distribution and transport of suspended sediments off the Yellow River (Huanghe) mouth and the nearby Bohai Sea

Hydrological and sedimentological investigations were carried out off the Yellow River (Huanghe) mouth and the nearby Bohai Sea during August–September 2007 to examine the distribution and transport of suspended sediments. Our data witnessed that suspended sediments from the Yellow River mouth primarily extend southerly and southeasterly during the flood season. High suspended sediment concentration (SSC) occurs as turbid plume on both sides of the river mouth, where it can reach >20 mg l^?1 in the surface water and >40 mg l^?1 in the bottom water. Accordingly, salinity varies from 25 to 29 psu, mean grain size (Dmz) is >200 μm, and volume concentration (VC) is >100 μl l^?1. High SSC was concentrated in the river mouth area as two muddy patches, i.e. the North Mud and South Mud, consisting mostly of fine-grained silt and clayey silt sediments. Our results have verified the larger extent of the South Mud than that of the North one, implicating south- and southeastward sediment dispersal paths that prevail near the river mouth area. The existing anti-clockwise and clockwise flows in the river mouth area were synthesized as the major hydrodynamics responsible for forming the two muddy patches. Tidal and residual currents are considered as the key hydrodynamic factors controlling the sediment distribution and transport in the region.     

Measurements of sheet flow transport in acceleration-skewed oscillatory flow and comparison with practical formulations

Near-bed oscillatory flows with acceleration skewness are characteristic of steep and breaking waves in shallow water. In order to isolate the effects of acceleration skewness on sheet flow sand transport, new experiments are carried out in the Aberdeen Oscillatory Flow Tunnel. The experiments have produced a dataset of net transport rates for full-scale oscillatory flows with varying degrees of acceleration skewness and three sand sizes. The new data confirm previous research that net transport in acceleration-skewed flow is non-zero, is always in the direction of the largest acceleration and increases with increasing acceleration skewness. Large transport rates for the fine sand conditions suggest that phase lag effects play an important role in augmenting positive net transport. A comparison of the new experimental data with a number of practical sand transport formulations that incorporate acceleration skewness shows that none of the formulations performs well in predicting the measured net transport rates for both the fine and the coarser sands. The new experimental data can be used to further develop practical sand transport formulations to better account for acceleration skewness.     

Measurement and modelling of the influence of grain size and pressure gradient on swash uprush sediment transport

The paper examines the dependency between total sediment transport, q, and grain size, D (i.e. q ∝ D^p) under dam break generated swash flows. Experiments were performed in a dam break flume over a sloping mobile sand bed with median grain sizes ranging from 0.22 mm to 2.65 mm. The total sediment transport was measured by truncating the flume bed and collecting the sediment transported over the edge. The experiments were designed to exclude pre-generated turbulence and pre-suspended sediment so as to focus solely on the swash flow. The magnitude and nature of the grain size dependency (i.e. p value) were inferred for different flow parameters; the initial dam depth, d_o, the integrated depth averaged velocity cubed, ∫ u³dt, and against the predicted transport potential, q_p, using the Meyer-Peter Muller (MPM) transport model and variations of that model. The data show that negative dependencies (p < 0) are obtained for d_o and q_p, whilst positive dependencies (p > 0) are obtained for ∫ u³dt. This indicates that a given d_o and q_p transport less sediment as grain size increases, whereas transport increases with grain size for a given ∫ u³dt. The p value is found to be narrowly ranged, 0.5 ≤ p ≤ − 0.5. On average, the incorporation of a pressure gradient term via the piezometric head into the MPM formulation reduces q_p by 4% (fine sand) to 18% (coarse sand). The measured total transport for fine and coarse sands is best predicted using MPM and MPM + dp*/dx respectively. However, the inferred optimum transport coefficient in the MPM formulation is about 30, much higher than the standard coefficient in a steady flow and this is not due to the presence of the pre-suspended sediment. The optimum transport coefficient indicates some sensitivity to grain size, suggesting that some transport processes remain unaccounted for in the model.     

A two-phase flow model for asymmetric sheetflow conditions

A newly developed two-phase flow model was applied to simulate the sediment movement under 2nd-order Stokes wave sheetflow conditions with different sediment sizes and wave periods. As for the distribution of eddy viscosity and sediment diffusion coefficient, the difference between onshore and offshore phases was considered by using an equivalent sinusoidal velocity amplitude for the asymmetric velocity profile. Sophisticated comparisons between laboratory measurements [O'Donoghue, T., Wright, S., 2004b. Flow tunnel measurements of velocities and sand flux in oscillatory sheetflow for well-sorted and graded sands. Coast. Eng., 51 (11–12), 1163–1184.] and the present numerical simulation were performed for sediment concentration, sediment velocity, sand flux and net transport rate. Four existing engineering models, together with the present two-phase flow model, were introduced for net transport rate prediction. Taking both the net sand transport rate magnitude and direction into account, the present process-based two-phase flow model provided the best estimations, which can simulate both the onshore net transport for medium/coarse sand cases and offshore net transport for fine sand cases with the agreement by a factor of 2 for almost all the considered cases.     

Impact of lugworms (Arenicola marina) on mobilization and transport of fine particles and organic matter in marine sediments

We investigated the impact of sediment reworking fauna and hydrodynamics on mobilization and transport of organic matter and fine particles in marine sediments. Experiments were conducted in an annular flume using lugworms (Arenicola marina) as model organisms. The impact of lugworms on sediment characteristics and particle transport was followed through time in sediments experimentally enriched with fine particles (< 63 μm) and organic matter. Parallel experiments were run at low and high water current velocity (11 and 25 cm s^− 1) to evaluate the importance of sediment erosion at the sediment–water interface. There was no impact of fauna on sediment composition and particle transport at current velocity below the sediment erosion threshold. At current velocity above the erosion threshold, sediment reworking by lugworms resulted in dramatic particle transport (12 kg dry matter m^− 2) to an adjacent particle trap within 56 days. The transported matter was enriched 6–8 times in fine particles and organic matter when compared to the initial sediment. This study suggests that sediment reworking fauna is an important controlling factor for the particle composition of marine sediments. A. marina mediated sediment reworking greatly increases the sediment volume exposed to hydrodynamic forcing at the sediment–water interface, and through sediment resuspension control the content of fine particles and organic matter in the entire reworked sediment layer (> 20 cm depth).     

Cross-slope zonation of erosion and deposition in the Faeroe-Shetland Channel,North Atlantic Ocean

Boundary currents and internal waves determine cross-slope zonation of erosion and deposition in the Faeroe-Shetland Channel. Currents were measured at 8 and 34–50 m above the bottom at three mooring sites (502, 595 and 708 m depth) for 14 days. The structure of the water column was evaluated from CTD sections, and included nepheloid layers and particulate matter concentrations. Indicators for recent deposition in the sediment (organic carbon, phytopigments, ²¹⁰Pb) were measured at eight stations across the slope. Strong near-bottom currents at the upper slope sustain down-slope particle transport in a benthic nepheloid layer, which is eroded under the influence of critically reflecting M₂ internal tidal waves at 350–550 m, where the major pycnocline meets the sloping bottom. Beam attenuation profiles confirmed the presence of intermediate nepheloid layers intruding into the Channel along the major pycnocline, and elevated concentrations of particulate matter and chlorophyll-a were measured at this depth. Near-bottom currents decreased with depth, thus allowing particle deposition down the slope. Inventories of excess ²¹⁰Pb activity in the sediment deeper than 600 m were higher than what was expected on the basis of atmospheric input of ²¹⁰Pb and production in the water column, thus indicating additional lateral inputs. Simple calculations showed that off-slope input of particles from areas shallower than 600 m may be responsible for the enhanced deposition at greater depths.     

Application of a fuzzy inference system for the prediction of longshore sediment transport

A fuzzy inference system (FIS) and a hybrid adaptive network-based fuzzy inference system (ANFIS), which combines a fuzzy inference system and a neural network, are used to predict and model longshore sediment transport (LST). The measurement data (field and experimental data) obtained from Kamphuis [1] and Smith et al. [2] were used to develop the model. The FIS and ANFIS models employ five inputs (breaking wave height, breaking wave angle, slope at the breaking point, peak wave period and median grain size) and one output (longshore sediment transport rate). The criteria used to measure the performances of the models include the bias, the root mean square error, the scatter index and the coefficients of determination and correlation. The results indicate that the ANFIS model is superior to the FIS model for predicting LST rates. To verify the ANFIS model, the model was applied to the Karaburun coastal region, which is located along the southwestern coast of the Black Sea. The LST rates obtained from the ANFIS model were compared with the field measurements, the CERC [3] formula, the Kamphuis [1] formula and the numerical model (LITPACK). The percentages of error between the measured rates and the calculated LST rates based on the ANFIS method, the CERC formula (K_sig = 0.39), the calibrated CERC formula (K_sig = 0.08), the Kamphuis [1] formula and the numerical model (LITPACK) are 6.5%, 413.9%, 6.9%, 15.3% and 18.1%, respectively. The comparison of the results suggests that the ANFIS model is superior to the FIS model for predicting LST rates and performs significantly better than the tested empirical formulas and the numerical model.     

Evidence of sediment gravity flows induced by trawling in the Palamós (Fonera) submarine canyon (northwestern Mediterranean)

Three mooring arrays were deployed in the Palamós Canyon axis with sediment traps, current meters and turbidimeters installed near the bottom and in intermediate waters. Frequent sharp and fast turbidity peaks along with current speed increases were recorded, particularly at 1200 m depth in spring and summer. During these events, near-bottom water turbidity increased by up to more than one order of magnitude, current velocity by two to four times and horizontal sediment fluxes by one to three orders of magnitude. When these events occurred, 9–11 days integrated downward particle fluxes collected by the near-bottom sediment trap increased by two to three times. These events were identified as sediment gravity flows triggered by trawling activities along the northern canyon wall. Sediment eroded by the trawling nets at 400–750 m depth on this wall seems to be channeled through a gully and transported downslope towards the canyon axis, where the 1200 m mooring was located. The sediment gravity flows recorded at the 1200 m site were not detected at deeper instrumented sites along the canyon axis, suggesting that they affect local areas of the canyon without traveling long distances downcanyon. These observations indicate that trawling can generate frequent sediment gravity flows and increase sediment fluxes locally in submarine canyons. Furthermore, in addition to the various natural processes currently causing sediment gravity flows and other sediment transport events, human activities such as trawling must be taken into account in modern submarine canyon sediment dynamics studies.     

Deep flow and transport through the Ulleung Interplain Gap in the Southwestern East/Japan Sea

Deep circulation in the southwestern East/Japan Sea through the Ulleung Interplain Gap (UIG), a possible pathway for deep-water exchange, was directly measured for the first time. Five concurrent current meter moorings were positioned to effectively span the UIG between the islands of Ulleungdo to the west and Dokdo to the east. They provided a 495-day time series of deep currents below 1800 m depth spanning the full breadth of the East Sea Deep and Bottom Water flowing from the Japan Basin into the Ulleung Basin. The UIG circulation is found to be mainly a two-way flow with relatively weak southward flows directed into the Ulleung Basin over about two-thirds of the western UIG. A strong, persistent, and narrow compensating northward outflow occurs in the eastern UIG near Dokdo and is first referred to here as the Dokdo Abyssal Current. The width of the abyssal current is about 20 km below 1800 m depth. The low-frequency variability of the transports is dominated by fluctuations with a period of about 40 days for inflow and outflow transports. The 40-day fluctuations of both transports are statistically coherent, and occur almost concurrently. The overall mean transport of the deep water below 1800 m into the Ulleung Basin over the 16.5 months is about 0.005 Sv (1 Sv=10⁶ m³ s^?1), with an uncertainty of 0.025 Sv indicating net transport is negligible below 1800 m through the UIG.     

Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f_w = 0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms.     

Fluxes and exchange of suspended sediment in tidal inlets draining a degraded mangrove forest in Kenya

This study focuses on sediment exchange in the degraded Mwache mangrove forest wetland located in southern Kenya. It involved measurement of total and particulate organic suspended sediment concentrations (TSSC and POSC), tidal water elevation and current velocities. Results showed that in the heavily degraded backwater zone mangrove forest, the ebb and flood tide total sediment fluxes were of same order of magnitude, however, flood tide sediment fluxes were slightly higher than the ebb ones. In the moderately degraded frontwater zone mangrove forest, the flood tide sediment fluxes were more than 50% higher than the ebb tide fluxes. The peak net sedimentation in the highly degraded backwater zone was 4 g m⁻² tide⁻¹ but that in the moderately degraded frontwater zone was 63 g m⁻² tide⁻¹. In the frontwater zone of the mangrove forest, the peak instantaneous ebb tide sediment flux was 3206 kg tide⁻¹ equivalent to 35.6 g m⁻² tide⁻¹ and the flood one 8574 kg tide⁻¹ (95 g m⁻² tide⁻¹). The peak instantaneous flood and ebb tide particulate organic sediment (POS) fluxes in the frontwater zone mangrove forest were 1316 kg tide⁻¹ (15 g m⁻² tide⁻¹) and 587 kg tide⁻¹ (6.5 g m⁻² tide⁻¹), respectively. The peak ebb and flood tide sediment fluxes in the backwater mangrove forest were 3206 kg tide⁻¹ (36 g m⁻² tide⁻¹) and 3305 kg tide⁻¹ (36.7 g m⁻² tide⁻¹), respectively. In case of POS fluxes in the backwater zone mangrove forest, the peak flood period POS flux was 969 kg tide⁻¹ (10.7 g m⁻² tide⁻¹) while the ebb period one was 484 kg tide⁻¹ (5.4 g m⁻² tide⁻¹). In both highly degraded backwater and moderately degraded frontwater zone of the mangrove forest, there is net import of sediments. However, the net import is relatively lower in the backwater zone forest where the trapping efficiency is 27%. In the moderately degraded frontwater zone of the mangrove forest, the sediment trapping efficiency is 65%. The net sediment import occurs mainly in periods of high river discharge in both neap and spring tides, but occurs only in spring tides during dry season. The net accretion rates in the backwater and frontwater zone mangrove forests are 0.25 and 3.5 cm year⁻¹, respectively.     

非对称歪斜波引起的片流输沙数值研究

本文用了一个可考虑相位差作用和波浪边界层非对称性的瞬态理论模型和一个两相紊流模型共同研究非对称歪斜波引起的片流输沙现象。为了解速度偏度和加速度偏度对输沙通量和输沙率的贡献,两相流模型为理论模型提供了必要的相位超前、瞬时侵蚀深度和边界层的发展过程。理论模型研究显示了由速度偏度和加速度偏度引起的向岸阶段和离岸阶段的泥沙运动非对称性,解释了净输沙的产生原因。在以往的非对称歪斜波片流输沙研究中,净输沙的产生主要被归结于相位差作用。本文的研究则表明了非对称的边界层发展所产生的净流量和动床面效应在净输沙产生过程中的比相位差作用更为重要。     

Dianeutral mixing,transformation and transport of the deep water of the Indian Ocean

The realization of North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) replacement in the deep northern Indian Ocean is crucial to the “conveyor belt” scheme. This was investigated with the updated 1994 Levitus climatological atlas. The study was performed on four selected neutral surfaces, encompassing the Indian deep water from 2000 to 3500 m. The Indian deep water comprises three major water masses: NADW, Circumpolar Deep Water (CDW) and North Indian Deep Water (NIDW). Since NADW flowing into the southwest Indian Ocean is largely blocked by the ridges (the Madagascar Ridge in the east and Davie Ridge in the north in the Mozambique Channel) and NIDW is the only source in the northern Indian Ocean that cannot provide a large amount of volume transport, CDW has to be a major source for the Indian deep circulation and ventilation in the north. Thus the question of NADW replacement becomes that of how the advective flows of CDW from the south are changed to be upwelled flows in the north—a water-mass transformation scenario. This study considered various processes causing motion across neutral surfaces. It is found that dianeutral mixing is vital to achieve CDW transformation. Basin-wide uniform dianeutral upwelling is detected in the entire Indian deep water north of 32°S, somewhat concentrated in the eastern Indian Ocean on the lowest surface. However, the integrated dianeutral transport is quite low, about a net of 0.2 Sv (1 Sv=10⁶ m³ s^-1) across the lowermost neutral surface upward and 0.4 Sv across the uppermost surface upward north of 32°S with an error band of about 10–20% when an uncertainty of half-order change in diffusivities is assumed. Given about 10–15% of rough ridge area where dianeutral diffusivity could be about one order of magnitude higher (10^-4 m² s^-1) due to internal-wave breaking, the additional amount of increased net dianeutral transport across the lowest neutral surface is still within that error band. The averaged net upward transport in the north is matched with a net downward transport of 0.3 Sv integrated in the Southern Ocean south of 45°S across the lowermost surface. With the previous works of You (1996. Deep Sea Research 43, 291–320) in the thermocline and You (Journal of Geophysical Research) in the intermediate water combined, a schematic dianeutral circulation of the Indian Ocean emerges. The integrated net dianeutral upwelling transport shows a steady increase from the deep water to the upper thermocline (from 0.2 to 4.6) north of 32°S. The dianeutral upwelling transport is accumulated upward as the northward advective transport provided from the Southern Ocean increases. As a result, the dianeutral upwelling transport north of 32°S can provide at least 4.6 Sv to south of 32°S from the upper main thermocline, most likely to the Agulhas Current system. This amount of dianeutral upwelling transport does not include the top 150–200 m, which may contribute much more volume transport to the south.     

Benthic response to shellfish farming in Thau lagoon: Pore water signature

Vertical distributions of dissolved species across the sediment–water interface (SWI), including major cations (sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium), minor cations (lithium, strontium, barium), redox sensitive species (dissolved manganese, iron, sulfate, sulfide, ammonium) and other chemical parameters (pH, alkalinity, soluble reactive phosphorous, dissolved silica) were studied in a Mediterranean lagoon used for intensive shellfish farming. In order to quantify the impact of this activity on diagenetic processes and the influence of seasonal changes, two stations contrasted with respect to organic carbon fluxes were sampled in Thau lagoon from March 2001 to August 2002 during four field campaigns in winter, spring, summer and fall. Well-defined layers enriched with redox sensitive species were observed following the conventional sequence of early diagenetic reactions. However, differences were observed between both stations in depths and thickness layers. Concentration gradients extended down to more than 92 cm depth at the central position of the lagoon (station C4 – 8 m depth) and down to 40 cm depth inside shellfish farming zones (station C5 – 9 m depth). Station C4 showed an unusual diagenetic signature: sharp dissolved oxygen, iron, nitrate and manganese gradients existed at the SWI but gradients of dissolved sulfide and alkalinity as well as other parameters (dissolved silica, Ba, etc.) were recorded only from 25 to 30 cm depth downward. Seasonal changes were observed in pore water composition as deep as 30–50 cm in station C4 (only 15 cm in station C5). The center of the lagoon is not directly subjected to biodeposits deriving from shellfish activity. Isotopic and bioturbation data allowed to rule out a reworking of the sediment deeper than a few centimeters. In addition to organic content of the sediment, physical parameters were likely to induce the 10–20 cm gap between dissolved iron and sulfide profile as well as the higher vertical extent of diagenetic sequence observed at station C4. Conversely to station C5, station C4 underwent stronger currents and wave effect probably generating advective transport of water through the sediment, but no permeability data were available to confirm this hypothesis. During summer, climatic conditions generated vertical stratification of the water column and transient suboxic conditions at the bottom. Such conditions drove the upward shift of redox fronts, compacting the diagenetic sequence. These effects were reinforced at station C5 by shellfish and its farm structures (mainly attenuation of current and increased heat absorption).