Modified Rayleigh distribution of wave heights in transitional water depths

This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models.     

Modified Rayleigh Distribution of Wave Heights in Transitional Water Depths

This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models.     

Nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves

This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea.     

Wave height distributions in bimodal sea states from offshore basins

The paper presents results for the distribution of wave heights from laboratory generated bimodal sea states. Data collected at the DHI offshore basin are analyzed and compared with results based on wave records from the MARINTEK offshore basin. The comparisons are done for three groups of mixed sea states: wind-sea dominated, swell-dominated and energy-equivalent, determined on the basis of the parameter sea-swell energy ratio (SSER), which have been generated according to the model of Guedes Soares (1984). In some sea states abnormal or freak waves have been observed.The quasi-determinism theory of Boccotti is used to expand some linear narrowband models to second order, thus providing validation of the adequacy of the equations to represent the linear components of the wave heights. Also, the data are compared with the predictions of a third order model using as a nonlinear correction the coefficient of kurtosis. Due to the coexistence of wind-sea and swell, the core of the autocovariance function in some cases demonstrates a global minimum which is the second local minimum in the sequence. This can affect the fitting ability of distributions whose parameters depend on the form of the autocorrelation function or its envelope.The results for MARINTEK and DHI data show similar patterns of fit between predicted and observed exceedance probabilities for the considered classes of bimodal spectra.     

Probability distributions of wave heights in bimodal seas in an offshore basin

This study aims at assessing the adequacy for describing bimodal sea states of different non-linear probability distributions that have been developed for single sea states. It is based on data collected at an offshore test basin. The measurements represent three bimodal sea states with individual unidirectional wave systems propagating at 60, 90 and 120 from each other. The wave spectra are separated into swell and wind sea components and the relative energy ratio between the areas under the associated spectral curves is estimated and is related with the statistics of the time series considered. Dependence is found between the normalized high order cumulants, which describe the non-Gaussian surface, and the predominant contribution of the wind sea energy. Furthermore, the probabilities of exceedance of the individual wave heights are estimated and compared with the Rayleigh model and with other models that take into account either the effect of spectral bandwidth or the effect of wave nonlinearities. The results are discussed with respect to three classes of sea states that reflect the relative contribution of swell and wind sea energy.     

Influence of the type of sea waves on the backscattered radar cross section at medium incidence angles

We consider the influence of the sea surface state on the backscattered radar cross section and the accuracy of the wind speed retrieval from the scatterometer data. We used a joint set of radars and buoys to determine the type of sea waves. Three types of sea waves were distinguished: developing wind waves, fully developed wind waves, and mixed sea. It is shown that the retrieval error of the near surface wind speed using a one-parameter algorithm is minimal in the case of fully developed wind waves. We compared these data with the results of radio-altimeter data analysis and showed that in both cases underestimation of the retrieval wind speed exists for developing wind waves and overestimation occurs for mixed sea. A variety of swell parameters (length of the dominating wave, swell height, swell age) significantly influence the backscattered radar cross section, leading to a growth in the mean square error of the retrieved wind speed during vertical sounding (radio-altimeter data), and only slightly influence the mean square error of the scatterometer data (medium incidence angles). It is necessary to include the information about the parameters of sea waves in the algorithms and take into account the regional wave properties to increase the accuracy of wind speed retrieval.     

Correlation between successive wave heights and periods in mixed sea states

The degree of dependence between successive wave heights and periods is examined for sea states resulting from the combination of a remotely generated wave field and a locally generated wave system, based on simulated wave records. The sea states analysed represent situations that are swell dominated, wind–sea dominated or they have equivalent energy in the wind–sea and swell components. Results of the analysis of the simulated data have been compared with those expected from the theories for the joint distributions of consecutive wave heights and periods and with the results from a Pierson–Moskowitz target spectrum.     

Effect of wave nonlinearity on fatigue damage and extreme responses of a semi-submersible floating wind turbine

Floating wind turbine has been the highlight in offshore wind industry lately. There has been great effort on developing highly sophisticated numerical model to better understand its hydrodynamic behaviour. A engineering-practical method to study the nonlinear wave effects on floating wind turbine has been recently developed. Based on the method established, the focus of this paper is to quantify the wave nonlinearity effect due to nonlinear wave kinematics by comparing the structural responses of floating wind turbine when exposed to irregular linear Airy wave and fully nonlinear wave. Critical responses and fatigue damage are studied in operational conditions and short-term extreme values are predicted in extreme conditions respectively. In the operational condition, wind effects are dominating the mean value and standard deviation of most responses except floater heave motion. The fatigue damage at the tower base is dominated by wind effects. The fatigue damage for the mooring line is more influenced by wind effects for conditions with small wave and wave effects for conditions with large wave. The wave nonlinearity effect becomes significant for surge and mooring line tension for large waves while floater heave, pitch motion, tower base bending moment and pontoon axial force are less sensitive to the nonlinear wave effect. In the extreme condition, linear wave theory underestimates wave elevation, floater surge motion and mooring line tension compared with fully nonlinear wave theory while quite close results are predicted for other responses.     

Exceedance probability for wave overtopping on a fixed deck

Detailed laboratory measurements were made of the instantaneous free surface elevation in front of a fixed deck and the instantaneous free surface elevation, velocity, and overtopping rate at the leading edge of the deck. The study showed that the exceedance probabilities for the normalized maximum instantaneous overtopping rate and the normalized overtopping volume were predicted by a simple exponential curve. The measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck compared well with the nonlinear theory of Kriebel and Dawson (Kriebel D.L., Dawson T.H., 1993. Nonlinearity in wave crest statistics. In: Proceedings Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis. American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 61–75). Conditional sampling of the crest heights seaward of the deck gave a normalized probability distribution similar to that of the maximum water level measured on the deck for each overtopping event. However, the values used to normalize each distribution were not the same.     

基于多层感知器的风涌浪分离方法

风涌浪分离是研究风浪、涌浪各自特性的基础,但受限于海浪谱数据的匮乏,基于海浪谱的风涌浪分离方法难以普及应用,有效的解决办法是采用波浪观测中容易获取的基本波要素进行风涌浪分离。现有方法无法利用基本波要素全面计算出风浪、涌浪的比例及其特征参数,为此本文将机器学习引入到风涌浪分离中,以多层感知器模型为基础,提出了一种利用基本波要素、风要素准确计算出风涌浪参数的方法。该方法需要每个测站提供至少466笔、建议766笔及以上的实测波浪数据作为训练样本,适用于台湾海峡3个测站,在计算精度上显著优于基于海浪频谱的传统风涌浪分离方法,可为本海域缺乏海浪谱的测站提供替代性的风涌浪计算方案,有助于扩大实测风涌浪资料的来源,进而加强风涌浪分布特性以及预警预报研究。     

Availability of offloading from an LNG barge

Long-term data sets are discussed for three locations – a southern North Sea location, where sea states are typically dominated by wind-sea conditions, a Northwest Shelf of Australia location, where sea states are often a mix of wind-sea and swell conditions, and a Guinea Gulf location offshore Nigeria, where sea states are dominated by swell. Various types of sea state statistics that have application to availability studies are presented; but databases of these type that also include wind and current data can also be used to estimate response parameters, which can give a more direct assessment of availability, and some example statistics of these are also given. Finally, the availability of offloading an FLNG barge to carrier is evaluated for each of the data sets, for specific operability criteria. Two types of operability criteria are used in the availability evaluations, and the results compared.     

Validation of the Boccotti's generalized model for large nonlinear wave heights from laboratory mixed sea states

The presented work aims at validating the generalization of the asymptotic distribution model of Boccotti for large wave heights recently proposed by Tayfun [1] to laboratory generated mixed sea states with two-peak spectra. The input wave spectra are modelled as the sum of two JONSWAP spectra describing unidirectional wave systems with different or identical directions of propagation (crossing or following mixed seas). In order to account for the effect of the energetically dominant wave system on the largest observed waves, the Boccotti's parameters were calculated at the absolute minimum of the autocorrelation function which can differ from the first minimum for some cases of mixed seas, such as those dominated by the swell or seas with comparable contribution of the two spectral components. So far the proposed model has been validated elsewhere against samples of large wave heights exceeding the significant wave height in wind seas and in mechanically generated long-crested seas, both characterized by unimodal spectra and strong third-order nonlinearities. The present study demonstrates that it can predict equally well the tail of the distributions for mixed seas, irrespective of the type of the mixed sea, particularly when the third-order statistics is relatively large. Typically, the mixed seas from the considered offshore basin experiment display such conditions as the propagation distance from the wavemaker increases, though this effect is less pronounced for mixed following than for mixed crossing wave conditions. Moreover, the generalized model remains valid irrespective of the sign of the fourth-order sum Λ which is a key parameter of the distribution. Its good predictive ability is quantified here by the root-mean-square errors between observations and theory.     

The long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and the wave height (wind wave, swell, mixed wave)in global ocean during the last 44 a

Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF)reanalysis wave data(ERA-40),the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and(wind wave,swell,mixed wave)wave height in the global ocean at grid point 1.5×1.5 during the last 44 a is analyzed.It is discovered that a majority of global ocean swell wave height exhibits a significant linear increasing trend(2–8 cm/decade),the distribution of annual linear trend of the significant wave height(SWH)has good consistency with that of the swell wave height.The sea surface wind speed shows an annually linear increasing trend mainly concentrated in the most waters of Southern Hemisphere westerlies,high latitude of the North Pacific,Indian Ocean north of 30 S,the waters near the western equatorial Pacific and low latitudes of the Atlantic waters,and the annually linear decreasing mainly in central and eastern equator of the Pacific,Juan.Fernandez Archipelago,the waters near South Georgia Island in the Atlantic waters.The linear variational distribution characteristic of the wind wave height is similar to that of the sea surface wind speed.Another find is that the swell is dominant in the mixed wave,the swell index in the central ocean is generally greater than that in the offshore,and the swell index in the eastern ocean coast is greater than that in the western ocean inshore,and in year-round hemisphere westerlies the swell index is relatively low.     

Nonlinear effects of the distribution of amplitudes of sea waves

The effect of nonlinearities, such as wave-breaking and vertical asymmetry associated with sea waves, on the distribution of wave amplitudes is explored. Semiclosed theoretical expressions are derived to describe the distributions of breaking-limited crest and trough amplitudes for Stokes-type nonlinear sea waves. These are compared with the conventional Rayleigh distribution appropriate to linear wave amplitudes. The construction of nonlinear wave envelopes with the fast Fourier transform technique is described. The technique can be utilized to enlarge the data base in empirical analyses of field records which typically contain limited information on amplitude characteristics. The theoretical distributions and the proposed data enlargement technique are demonstrated with the analysis of a nonlinear wave record.     

The sheltering effect of the Balearic Islands in the hindcast wave field

The sheltering effect of the Balearic Islands in the hindcast wave field was studied for typical Mediterranean wave situations of Llevant, Tramuntana and Mestral and for mild conditions such as the Garbí and Ponent winds. For this purpose, a third generation wave model was applied to the Mediterranean Sea and different patterns of the sheltered areas were found for the various representative situations depending on the wind variability and on the magnitude of the wind speed. From the analysis it was concluded that the sheltered zones created during storms generally persist for short periods of time of the order of 6 h, possibly reaching a maximum of 12 h. In contrast with earlier results obtained for swell dominated ocean areas, it was observed that in this area, due to the short fetches the sea states are mainly local wind seas and thus the wave field behind the islands depends on the local wind.     

Rogue waves during Typhoon Trami in the East China Sea

As concluded from physical theory and laboratory experiment,it is widely accepted that nonlinearities of sea state play an important role in the formation of rogue waves;however,the sea states and corresponding nonlinearities of real-world rogue wave events remain poorly understood.Three rogue waves were recorded by a directional buoy located in the East China Sea during Typhoon Trami in August 2013.This study used the WAVEWATCHⅢmodel to simulate the sea state conditions pertaining to when and where those rogue waves were observed,based on which a comprehensive and full-scale analysis was performed.From the perspectives of wind and wave fields,wave system tracking,High-Order Spectral method simulation,and some characteristic sea state parameters,we concluded that the rogue waves occurred in sea states dominated by second-order nonlinearities.Moreover,third-order modulational instabilities were suppressed in these events because of the developed or fully developed sea state determined by the typhoon wave system.The method adopted in this study can provide comprehensive and full-scale analysis of rogue waves in the real world.The case studied in this paper is not considered unique,and rules could be found and confirmed in relation to other typhoon sea states through the application of our proposed method.     

风压作用下非线性极端波浪的数值模拟

本文在时域非线性数值波浪水槽中,研究了不同风速条件下极端波浪的特性。采用推板造波的方式生成非线性波浪,基于Jeffrey遮蔽理论将风压项引入自由面动力学边界条件来模拟风压作用,通过高阶边界元法和混合欧拉-拉格朗日时间步进法来求解初边值问题。通过与已发表的聚焦波群实验结果对比验证了该数值模型的准确性,并研究了风压对极端波浪的最大波高、聚焦位置的偏移和波浪谱的演变等波浪性质的影响。本文进一步在数值波浪水槽中引入均匀水流,来模拟风生流对波浪演变的影响。结果表明,风压的存在会少量增大极端波浪的最大波高,波浪的聚焦和解焦过程伴随着明显的能量传递,并且风生流进一步导致了波浪聚焦位置的偏移。     

浙江中部三门湾波浪特征统计分析

为了研究浙江中部三门湾海域的波浪特征,本文基于AWAC波浪观测仪在该海域进行了连续1年的观测,对观测得到的波浪参数进行了统计分析、线性回归分析,同时研究分析了三门湾海域受台风影响时,波浪参数和波浪谱的变化情况,探讨了波浪变化的原因.研究表明,三门湾海域常浪向和强浪向均为E向,地形是主导因素;显著波高绝大部分在0.8 m...     

Characteristic analysis of wind field and sea wave field over the NW Pacific Ocean

The NW Pacific Ocean is not onIy the only transportation way between America andAsia, but also the source influencing on inIand climate and marine variability of adjacentseas in China. Based on ship observation data during l950 - l995 in the NW Pacific,with data from several hundreds to 30 thousand in every 5"x5" grid network, throughanalyzing the monthly mean directions of prevailing wind, wave and swelI, wind speed,pressure, wave height and frequencies of gaIe of 6 and 8 sca1e, high sea…     

波谱仪调制功率谱估计算法性能的仿真研究

基于星载波谱仪海浪方向谱探测原理,仿真了不同海况、风速下的海浪波谱仪接收信号,并采用周期图法、Welch法、AR模型法以及最小方差法共4种不同的调制谱估计方法反演出海浪谱,比较各种调制谱估计方法的海浪方向谱反演性能。仿真结果表明:对于一定方位向下的一维海浪谱反演,不同调制谱估计方法反演海浪谱性能优劣没有绝对的顺序。对于二维海浪谱反演,在成长中海浪条件下周期图法反演性能最差,其他3种方法的反演性能没有绝对优劣顺序;对于成熟风浪,最小方差法在积分能量误差、有效波高误差两个指标上的反演性能最好,在主波波向、主波波长误差上,周期图法反演性能最差,其他3种方法没有绝对优劣顺序。在涌浪条件下,AR模型法反演性能优于其他3种方法。在不同海况下,随着波谱仪中心入射角的下降,反演性能会下降。基于这些仿真结果,本文推荐最小方差法作为充分成长海浪的海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法,AR模型法作为涌浪海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法。