深圳龙岐湾海滩资源调查与开发建议

文章基于2022年春、秋季开展的龙岐湾沙滩资源调查数据,分析较场尾沙滩、大塘角沙滩、黄泥湾沙滩和桔钓沙沙滩的剖面特征、沉积物粒径和裂流发生情况。研究结果表明：4处沙滩剖面的坡度秋缓春陡,剖面受风浪和潮汐直接作用时坡度变化大,受遮蔽时坡度变化小,整体呈冬春淤积、夏秋侵蚀;沙滩沉积物以中砂、粗砂和砾石为主,粒径变化不大;沙滩均无明显裂流发生,为低风险等级。建议开发沙滩旅游应考虑季节性的补沙方案,开展围垦养殖和海岸工程应注意削弱ESE向和SE向的波浪作用。     

超百年一遇强降雨对厦门岛沙滩影响研究

2018年5月7日厦门岛遭遇了超百年一遇的强降水,对岸滩造成了严重影响。文章采用现场测量、无人机航拍等方法,通过对冲毁岸滩进行现场调查与测量,发现厦门岛东南部10.78km的滨海沙滩岸段,共有10个岸段的沙滩发生明显冲刷,受损岸线总长度为6.1km(占比57%),形成了28条冲刷沟,沙滩遭受的侵蚀面积为20286m²,冲刷量超过4万m³。分析其原因,主要是海岸带开发利用时,不透水面增多且具有一定的坡度,加之后方陆域地下排洪管涵排水,当短期强降水发生时,局部地形集中汇水后急速冲向海岸,导致海岸侵蚀垮塌和后退,沙滩冲刷成沟而流失大量海砂。针对不同沙滩的冲刷程度与影响机制,提出了相应的整治修复方案,可为今后沙滩维护保养提供参考。     

海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙作用研究进展

海滩养护已经成为全球基于自然(nature-based)海岸防护的主要手段,并得到广泛应用。随着全球强风区海岸海滩养护工程数量的增加,海滩养护对海岸风沙过程产生的一系列影响逐渐得到重视。海滩养护工程形成了新的海滩地貌形态,扩大了海滩风区、增加了风沙物源、提高了滩面高程、改变了滩面沉积物,海滩地貌和沉积物组分变化引起了风沙运动过程的变化,与自然海滩风沙过程相比,有其独特的过程和特征,已经成为海岸风沙研究的热点之一。本文从海滩养护影响下的风沙环境变化、风沙活动变化以及养护海滩对沙丘的影响等3个方面梳理了国内外研究进展,提出养护海滩风沙研究存在区域不平衡以及风沙过程的综合性影响和定量化研究不足等问题,并结合我国海滩养护未来的发展趋势,从强风区养护海滩风沙运动规律、养护海滩风沙环境全要素的综合影响和风沙作用变化的模型评估等方面展望了我国养护海滩风沙研究的未来发展方向。     

Distribution and thickness of sedimentary facies in the coastal dune, beach and nearshore sedimentary system at Maspalomas, Canary Islands

Numerous studies have shown that most beaches and coastal dune systems of the world are currently eroding but very few have investigated the combined sediment budgets of subaerial and nearshore submarine systems. In the case of the dune field of the Maspalomas Natural Special Reserve (in the south of Gran Canaria), the adjacent Maspalomas and El Inglés beaches and the adjacent submarine platform, the sediment budgets have been severely affected by erosion over the past few decades. The objectives of this study were to investigate the availability of sand within the modern sedimentary system, including the coastal dunes, the beaches and the submerged shelf, but also to assess local sediment sinks. An isopach map generated on the basis of topo-bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles revealed that sediment thickness varies from 0–22 m in the study area. Expanses of relatively low sediment thickness were identified in the south-western sector of the coastal dune field along Maspalomas beach, and in the nearshore region to the south of this beach. These localized sediment-deficit areas earmark Maspalomas beach as the most vulnerable shore strip threatened by erosion. The shallow seismic data also revealed that the submarine platform south of Maspalomas represents a marine terrace cut into an ancient alluvial fan, thus documenting an influence of the geomorphological heritage on the present-day morphodynamics. A side-scan sonar mosaic of this nearshore platform enabled the delimitation of areas covered by rock, boulders and gravel, vegetated sand patches and a mobile sand facies, the latter including ripple and megaripple fields. The megaripple field in a valley close to the talus of the marine terrace has been identified as a major sediment sink of the Maspalomas sedimentary system. It is fed by south-westerly storm-wave events. The sediment deficit in the coastal dune field and along Maspalomas beach can therefore only be explained by a currently faster loss of sediment to an offshore sink than can be compensated by the supply of sand from outside the system.     

Using submerged geotextile tubes in the protection of the E. Korean shore

Shore erosion is currently causing millions of dollars worth of damage to shorelines and public properties not only along the east coast of Korea but also around the world. Little else needs to be said to emphasize that, without adequate protection, a very significant part of our coastline will fall prey to the ravages of the sea and to man himself. In recent years, because of the shortage of natural rock, traditional forms of river and coastal structures have become very expensive to build and maintain. Therefore, the materials used in hydraulic and coastal structures are changing from the traditional rubble and concrete systems to cheaper materials and systems. One of these alternatives employs geotextile tube technology in the construction of shore protection structures, such as groins, jetties, detached breakwaters and so on. Recently, geotextile tube technology has changed from being an alternative construction technique and, in fact, has advanced to become the most effective solution of choice.This paper presents the various issues related to the geotextile tube construction for shore protection at Young-Jin beach on the east coast of Korea. A new approach to a stability analysis by 2-dimensional limit equilibrium theory is highlighted and the hydraulic model test results and case history of Young-Jin beach projects are described. Based on the results of stability analysis and hydraulic model tests, a two line geotextile tube installed with zero water depth above crest was found to be more stable and effective for wave absorption than other design plans. Also, the shoreline at Young-Jin beach was extended by about 2.4–7.6 m seaward, and seabed sand was gradually accumulated around areas covered by the geotextile tube.     

The effects of beach replenishment on the benthos of a sub-tropical Florida beach

Changes in the benthic fauna of the near-shore zone were examined before and after a beach replenishment project on the central Florida east coast. Results indicated that the near-shore sand beach community is relatively species rich, although abundance is dominated by only two species of bivalves, the coquina clams Donax variabilis and Donax parvula. Strong gradients of increased species richness and abundance were found, with values increasing at the more seaward sites for both control and nourishment locations. This distributional pattern was unchanged by beach nourishment. Comparison of mean number of individuals per core across dates and among transects (two-way analysis of variance) showed no indication of significant negative effects of beach nourishment. Similar analysis for mean number of species per core also failed to show significant negative effects. Negative biological effects of beach nourishment may have been minimized in the present case due to a seasonal offshore movement of the dominant coquina clams. The close match of mean fill grain size to ambient grain size and an apparent lack of substantial fill movement into the biologically more diverse offshore areas may also have diminished biological damage.     

Characteristics of coastal erosion geometry under regular and irregular waves

An experimental investigation of coastal erosion generated by the action of regular and irregular waves was carried out in laboratory channels. Natural beach sand, with medium diameter of 0.35 mm and specific gravity of 2.63, was used in this study. A 1:5 initial beach slope was selected for the model tests. Different wave groups were generated over the initially flat beach, and the characteristics of coastal erosion geometry such as erosion lengths, erosion depths, location of maximum erosion point, and total erosion areas were measured. The most important parameters governing coastal erosion were evaluated by using earlier investigations and experimental results. These parameters were expressed as a dimensionless group by using π theory. The empirical relationships between the geometric characteristics of coastal erosion and the dimensionless group are proposed through regression analysis for pure regular waves, pure irregular waves, and regular-irregular waves. The parameters, which were used to define geometric characteristics of coastal erosion, were evaluated and some ratios of these parameters gave a constant value.     

The influence of a research pier on beach morphology and the distribution of Emerita talpoida

The spatial distribution of the common Atlantic Coast mole crab, Emerita talpoida, is strongly influenced by inshore processes and the grain size and morphology of sand beaches. E. talpoida increase in density across the foreshore toward the lower part of the beach (step), with high concentrations occurring within areas of reduced wave energy. Engineering structures extending across the foreshore, such as the Coastal Engineering Research Facility (research pier) at Duck, North Carolina, significantly alter wave action and thus modify the distribution of beach sediment and beach morphology. This, in turn, results in modifications of E. talpoida distributions. The pier's impact on the natural processes and patterns of both physical and ecological elements of the beach introduces an “uncertainty principle” that must be taken into consideration when designing experiments at research facilities.     

海岸带滨水区环境胁迫与利用策略研究

海岸带滨水区具有多重功能,是地球上物理、化学、生物和地质过程最活跃的地区,对人类社会发展具有特别重要的意义.但随着海洋城市建设的加速推进,海岸带资源开发力度的不断加大,滨水区承受的压力也日益加剧.本文归纳总结了海岸带滨水区开发利用方式及特点,系统地分析了滨水区环境退化的胁迫机理,研究提出了海岸带滨水资源利用的六方面策略:1)以循环经济和可持续发展理念指导海岸带滨水区的开发利用;2)对滨水区生产和生活岸线布局进行战略调整;3)坚持亲水性原则,精心布局,开发好、利用好海湾滨水资源;4)大力发展海岸带滨水区沙滩特色旅游,高度重视沙滩的保护;5)构建海岸带滨水区生态预警与防范体系;6)实施海岸带滨水区生态修复、加强海湾滨岸生态化建设.     

Integrating anthropogenic factors, geomorphological indicators and local knowledge in the analysis of coastal flooding and erosion hazards

The settlement and development of Québec’s maritime coastline has generally taken place without consideration for coastal dynamics and coastal hazards. Consequently, fighting coastal erosion has become a necessity. Until now, the construction of rigid walls and encroachments has been the preferred approach to the problem. In the Chaleur Bay region, coastal communities are particularly vulnerable to erosion and flooding because a number of residential, commercial and transportation infrastructures have been installed on beach terraces and sand spits. Recent storms, such as the storm of December 2, 2005, have made possible a better understanding of how these rigid defence structures amplify the effects of storm surges and waves. These structures drive the sand away from the coast, lowering beach levels and even causing beaches to vanish entirely from the areas situated in front of the defence structures. The end result is a weakening of the natural capacity of these coastal systems to absorb the energy of waves and a greater risk of coastal flooding. An integrated approach using local knowledge on the one hand, along with LIDAR surveys and a DGPS system on the other hand, have made possible to map the levels reached by flooding at the time of the storm. The results indicate that such levels vary greatly in spatial terms and that the difference between the levels actually reached and the water level measured by tide gauge can be as much as 2 m; a difference that is due to anthropogenic perturbations. This raises questions concerning the safety and the reference levels used for mapping coastal flooding risk. Taking into account knowledge of local communities, analysis of water levels, geomorphological indicators and aggravating anthropogenic factors, an approach and basic criteria are put forward with a view of establishing a reference level for the mapping of flood risk that can be used by community land-use planners.     

近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

Improving the recreational value of Ireland's coastal resources: A contingent behavioural application

This paper measures willingness to pay (WTP) for public access to additional beach area and trail improvements to a coastal recreational site in the west of Ireland. The Contingent Behaviour model is used to measure the increased number of trips associated with improved public access using a connecting trail between two beach areas along a stretch of Irish coastline. Results show that improving access through the use of the connecting trail increases consumer surplus by €111.15 per person per annum. It is argued that in designing new regulation such as Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) for the management of Ireland's coastline, an understanding of the values the Irish public place on coastal recreational access will be important to manage the resource in a sustainable manner.     

The modern change and evolution tendency of sand coast in the eastern area of Liaodong Gulf

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珊瑚礁海岸侵蚀的研究方法

珊瑚礁海岸海滩和礁坪是海岸作用是活跃的部分，也是近几十年来与海岸发育，海岸侵蚀联系最密切的部分，这一部分高潮时被淹没，低潮时完全出露或大部分出露，使得在此进行地质填图成为可能，这样的地质图可以提供许多信息，如沉积物粒度分布规律，沉积物来源和搬运方向，海滩岩所指示的古海岸线位置，人类活动特别是海岸工程对沉积物分布的影响以及海岸线的变化过程和趋势，在礁坪上开挖的人工水道内测流，能够了解水流的性质以及是否有足够的速度搬运沉积物，从而了解人工水道对海岸的影响和预测海岸的状态，这些方法也可以用于大陆泥质和砂质第岸侵蚀的研究。     

海阳市典型砂质海岸侵蚀机制与防护对策研究

海阳市砂质海岸资源丰富,延绵近120 km,尤以万米沙滩浴场著称,但近年岸滩侵蚀严重影响其社会经济发展.本研究基于海阳市羊角畔两侧长约20 km典型砂质海岸连续3 a的海岸线蚀和典型剖面蚀淤调查,定量化研究海滩侵蚀及其变化,辅以一维数值模型,研究人类活动影响下的泥沙运动特征和海滩侵蚀机制.研究结果表明,调查区42.5％和5.90％的砂质海岸分别处于侵蚀和强侵蚀状态,羊角畔东侧海岸侵蚀强度高于西侧,海阳港至海阳核电厂之间海滩侵蚀强度最高,海滩侵蚀强度与人类活动扰动程度密切相关.海岸工程、临海养殖和人为采砂导致海阳市部分砂质海岸侵蚀严重的主要原因,导致羊角畔两侧海岸侵蚀机制也不同.基于各岸段侵蚀机制特征有针对性地提出退养还滩、凸堤拆除和沙滩喂养等对策,以减缓海阳砂质海岸侵蚀威胁.     

人工岛影响下的海滩修复对策研究——以海口西海岸为例

人工岛建设在缓解滨海人地矛盾的同时带来新的环境问题。本研究聚焦人工岛建设引起的岸滩侵蚀与泥沙分配失衡问题,以海口西海岸为例,建立GENESIS岸线演变模型,探讨人工岛影响下的海滩地貌演化机制,并在此基础上提出“循环养护”的海滩修复对策。主要研究结论为:①海口湾南海明珠人工岛对邻近海滩的影响以“岛后方淤积、两侧侵蚀”为显著特征,且两侧侵蚀热点区的响应幅度存在明显差异。五源河口至新国宾馆岸段侵蚀更为强烈的主导因素为物源匮乏与岸线形态外凸。②通过人工补沙与循环养护相结合的生态修复措施,可实现岸滩泥沙的合理分配与地貌的动态平衡,有效缓解人工岛引起的海岸侵蚀问题。本研究成果可为国内相似类型海岸的岸滩修复提供良好的借鉴意义。     

淤泥质海床相邻的岬湾沙滩剖面特征研究

通过对浙江沿海岬角海湾沙滩多处典型剖面的调查,结果表明沙滩与淤泥质海床存在较明显的沙泥分界线,滩面物质自北至南,粒径差别不大,中值粒径在0.15~0.25mm之间,滩面基本呈现单一坡度,坡度为1∶15~1∶30,沙滩坡度与波浪动力相关,沙滩前沿波浪动力强,滩面较缓,反之滩面较陡。沙滩退化表现为滩面的截断、粗化和泥化,滩面截断导致沙滩面积减少,中、细沙供给不足;细沙采挖或局部工程导致的沿岸输沙动力条件的改变会使滩面物质变粗;岬湾的水动力条件减弱,易使沙泥分界线抬升,局部泥化;过度挖沙会导致沙滩消失成为泥滩。     

北海银滩响应台风作用的动力地貌过程

极端高能事件影响下的海滩动力地貌过程直接关乎岸滩稳定及海堤安全。本文基于2020年16号台风“浪卡”前后北海银滩顺直岸段的剖面高程及表层沉积物等资料, 探究了中等潮差的顺直响应台风作用的地貌变化机制。结果表明: 1) 台风后海滩地貌表现为冲流带的大型沙坝消失, 后滨沙丘-滩槽体系被削平, 滩面坡度趋于平缓。2) 银滩沉积物均以中砂、细砂和极细砂为主, 三者占比超过95%; 台风后, 高潮位带沉积物变细, 低潮位带沉积物变粗, 沙坝附近则出现粗细交错式变化; 银滩中高潮位带滩面响应台风过程的特征与强潮型海滩相似, 呈现消散型海滩的特征, 而低潮位带滩面则因大型沙坝的作用而呈现弱潮型海滩特征。3) 台风期间波浪是影响海滩的主要动力因素, 海滩地形影响了近岸水动力的表现形式, 从而改变了沉积物的粒径分布。     

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

Beach nourishment effects on sand porosity variability

A standard assumption in coastal engineering is that the porosity of natural beach sand (non-cohesive) is 40%. However, is this assumption correct for all beach sand? This paper proposes an accurate and simplified method to assess changes in sand porosity after beach nourishment by means of in-situ density surveys through a nuclear densimeter. This novel application has been applied to different beaches in the southwest of Spain according to the tidal range, grain size and beach morphology in several terms. General results show that sand porosities range from 25.6% to 43.4% after beach nourishment works. This research can be considered a support tool in coastal engineering to find shifting sand volumes as a result of sand porosity variability after beach nourishment and later marine influence.