海滩侵蚀的数值分析模型

介绍了有关海滩侵蚀造成海岸演变问题的数学分析模型。根据海岸线演化和海滩断面的沉积物迁移理论建立一种顺岸方向和垂直岸线方向海岸形状变化的耦合模型。将海滩沉积物被海浪迁移的机理看作由于海水在海滩介质孔隙内渗流侵蚀和海浪对海滩介质冲刷所致的海滩介质的孔隙损伤变化。这种结合数值和解析分析的综合方法可用于模拟海岸演变问题中海岸线 (沿岸方向 )和海滩断面 (垂直海岸线方向 )的变迁情况     

Investigation and Discussion on the Beach Morphodynamic Response Under Storm Events Based on A Three-Dimensional Numerical Model

A well-established 3D phase-averaged beach morphodynamic model was applied to investigate the morphodynamics of a typical artificial beach,and a series of discussions were made on the surfzone hydro-sedimentological processes under calm and storm events.Model results revealed that the nearshore wave-induced current presents a significant 3D structure under stormy waves,where the undertow and longshore currents exist simultaneously,forming a spirallike circulation system in the surfzone.Continuous longshore sediment transport would shorten the sediment supply in the cross-shore direction,subsequently suppress the formation of sandbars,showing that a typical recovery profile under calm waves does not necessarily develop,but with a competing process of onshore drift,undertow and longshore currents.Sediment transport rate during storms reaches several hundreds of times as those under calm waves,and two storm events contribute approximately 60%to the beach erosion.Sediment transport pattern under calm waves is mainly bed load,but as the fine sands underneath begin to expose,the contribution of suspended load becomes significant.     

海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面短期时空变化及沉积动态分析 *

海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。     

Quantifying the storm erosion hazard for coastal planning

The quantity of coastline retreat resulting from storm erosion is one of the most important phenomena that needs to be accurately quantified to facilitate effective coastal management strategies. Historically, the volume of storm erosion (and coastline retreat) accommodated for coastal planning decisions has been directly linked to the storm (usually defined by considering wave height and duration only) with a certain pre-defined return period, known as a Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) (e.g. 1 in 100 year storm). The SDS method of estimating storm erosion volumes for coastal planning thus assumes that, for example, the 1 in 100 year storm event also results in a 1 in 100 year erosion event. This communication discusses the physical reality of this assumption and demonstrates the improved performance of a new method, based on Joint Probability Distributions (JPD) for estimating storm erosion volumes proposed by Callaghan et al. [Callaghan, D.P., Nielsen, P., Short, A.D. and Ranasinghe, R., 2008. Statistical simulation of wave climate and extreme beach erosion. Coastal Engineering, 55(5): 375–390] using one of the world's longest beach profile surveys from Sydney, Australia.     

Modelling gravel beach dynamics with XBeach

Numerical cross-shore profile evolution models have been good at predicting beach erosion during storm conditions, but have difficulty in predicting the accretion of the beach during calm periods. This paper describes the progress made in modifying and applying the public domain XBeach code to the prediction and explanation of the observed behaviour of coarse-grained beaches in the laboratory and the field under accretive conditions. The paper outlines in details the changes made to the original code (version 12), including the introduction of a new morphological module based upon Soulsby's sediment transport equation for waves and currents, and the incorporation of Packwood's infiltration approach in the unsaturated area of the swash region. The competence of this modified model during calm conditions for describing the steepening of the profile, and the growth of the beach berm is demonstrated. Preliminary results on the behaviour of the beach subject to both waves and tides are presented. Good agreement is found between the model simulations and large-scale laboratory measurements, as well as field observations from a composite beach in the UK. The reasons for the model's capabilities are discussed.     

A relationship to describe the cumulative impact of storm clusters on beach erosion

Estimation of erosion volumes for adequate dry beach buffer zones is commonly estimated on the basis of a single extreme event, such as the 1 in 100 year storm. However, the cumulative impact of several smaller, closely spaced storms can lead to equal, if not more, dry beach loss, but this is often not quantified. Here we use a calibrated model for dune erosion, XBeach, to hindcast the cumulative erosion impact of a series of historical storms that impacted the Gold Coast, Queensland region in 1967. Over a 6-month period, four named cyclones (Dinah, Barbara, Elaine, and Glenda) and three East Coast Lows caused a cumulative erosion volume greater than the predicted 1 in 100 year event. Results presented here show that XBeach was capable of reproducing the measured dry beach erosion volume to within 21% and shoreline retreat to within 10%. The storms were then run in 17 different sequences to determine if sequencing influenced final modeled erosion volumes. It is shown that storm sequencing did not significantly affect the total eroded volumes. However, individual storm volumes were influenced by the antecedent state of the beach (i.e. prior cumulative erosion). Power-law relationships between cumulative energy density (∑ E) and eroded volume (∆V) as well as cumulative wave power ((∑ P)) and eroded volume (∆V) both explained more than 94% of the modeled dry beach erosion for the 1967 storm sequences. When the relationship was compared with observed and modeled erosion volumes for similar beaches but different storm forcing, the inclusion of pre-storm beach swash slope (β_swash) in the parameterization was found to increase the applicability of the power-law relationship over a broader range of conditions.     

Wave farm impact on the beach profile: A case study

If wave energy is to become a fully-fledged renewable, its environmental impacts must be fully understood. The objective of the present work is to examine the impact of a wave farm on the beach profile through a case study. The methodology is based on two coupled numerical models: a nearshore wave propagation model and a morphodynamic model, which are run in two scenarios, both with and without the wave farm. Wave data from a nearby coastal buoy are used to prescribe the boundary conditions. A positive effect on the wave climate, the cross-shore sediment transport and, consequently, the evolution of the beach profile itself due to the presence of the wave farm was found. The wave farm leads to a reduction in the erosion of the beach face. This work constitutes the first stage of the investigation of the effectiveness of a wave farm as a coastal defence measure, and the accuracy of the quantification of the erosion reduction will be enhanced in future research. In any case, the overarching picture that emerges is that wave farms, in addition to providing carbon-free energy, can be used as elements of a coastal defence scheme.     

Experimental simulation of shoreface nourishments under storm events: A morphological,hydrodynamic, and sediment grain size analysis

This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex.     

Modelling storm hydrodynamics on gravel beaches with XBeach-G

In this paper we present a process-based numerical model for the prediction of storm hydrodynamics and hydrology on gravel beaches. The model comprises an extension of an existing open-source storm-impact model for sandy coasts (XBeach), through the application of (1) a non-hydrostatic pressure correction term that allows wave-by-wave modelling of the surface elevation and depth-averaged flow, and (2) a groundwater model that allows infiltration and exfiltration through the permeable gravel bed to be simulated, and is referred to as XBeach-G. Although the model contains validated sediment transport relations for sandy environments, transport relations for gravel in the model are currently under development and unvalidated. Consequently, all simulations in this paper are carried out without morphodynamic feedback. Modelled hydrodynamics are validated using data collected during a large-scale physical model experiment and detailed in-situ field data collected at Loe Bar, Cornwall, UK, as well as remote-sensed data collected at four gravel beach locations along the UK coast during the 2012–2013 storm season. Validation results show that the model has good skill in predicting wave transformation (overall SCI 0.14–0.21), run-up levels (SCI < 0.12; median error < 10%) and initial wave overtopping (85–90% prediction rate at barrier crest), indicating that the model can be applied to estimate potential storm impact on gravel beaches. The inclusion of the non-hydrostatic pressure correction term and groundwater model is shown to significantly improve the prediction and evolution of overtopping events.     

Artificial Beach as a Structure for Protecting a Seacoast from Storm Surge Impact (Based on the Example of the Eastern Gulf of Finland)

Oceanology - A model of an artificial beach is proposed for protecting a seacoast subjected to erosion under significant storm surge impact. The beach profile properties are based on the Dean...     

Prediction of dune erosion due to storms

This paper presents results of experimental and mathematical modelling of beach and dune erosion under storm events. Re-analysis of the experimental results on dune erosion in small-scale and large-scale flumes shows that the dune erosion for extreme conditions is somewhat smaller than that based on earlier analysis results.     

海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程研究进展

海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程是海岸海洋科学研究的重要研究内容之一.近20年来该领域发展较快,取得了一些重要的成果.对近岸带中尺度地形动力过程的碎波带地形与沙坝、冲流带地形与滩角、海滩风暴响应、观测技术手段等主要领域的进展进行了总结和评述,并对我国海滩研究提出要从加强观测手段和制定长期观测计划两方面来加强的建议.     

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩对热带风暴“娜基莉”的响应及风暴后的恢复

海滩对风暴的响应及风暴后海滩的恢复过程一直以来都是国内外海滩研究的热点。本文通过对浙江舟山市朱家尖岛东沙海滩地形地貌的现场调查,对比分析了热带风暴"娜基莉"影响下东沙海滩剖面的蚀积变化,探讨了海滩在热带风暴发生后的恢复情况。结果表明,在"娜基莉"影响期间,因风暴浪为向岸浪,东沙海滩几乎遭受全线侵蚀,12个剖面单宽侵蚀总量为73.46 m3/m,其中海滩直线段较两个遮蔽段侵蚀显著。由于海滩在风暴前进方向的左侧,且"娜基莉"距东沙较远,使得东沙海滩普遍侵蚀但强度较小。东沙海滩在热带风暴后的恢复过程中,不同部位的地貌调整和冲淤变化不同,下岬角遮蔽段基本趋于稳定,直线段和上岬角遮蔽段在恢复过程中因受海滩季节性调整的影响呈现持续侵蚀。     

广西北海涠洲岛典型岸滩剖面短期冲淤变化特征

基于涠洲岛2012年12月、2013年7月和2013年12月砂质岸滩剖面高程数据以及沉积物粒度数据,作者分析了2012~2013年涠洲岛砂质海岸短期冲淤变化。结果表明:(1)2012年12月~2013年7月,在热带风暴的影响下,涠洲岛大部分岸滩发生侵蚀现象,侵蚀最严重部位一般在中滩;(2)2012年12月~2013年12月,侵蚀岸段主要在东南部、西南部和西北部低滩,淤积岸段主要在北部、西北部高中滩;(3)根据沉积物颗粒平均粒径分析结果,一般高滩沉积物较低滩粗,说明水动力环境高滩相对较强,各岸段沉积物颗粒变化基本与岸滩剖面冲淤变化相一致。短时期内,影响涠洲岛岸滩冲淤变化的因素有波浪、潮汐、风暴潮和人类活动等。     

不同补沙方案对海滩剖面影响的数值模拟对比分析

大量工程实践表明,海滩养护是当前抵御海岸侵蚀的常见措施。通过人为地向海滩补充沙源,以达到海岸防护、修复沙滩等目的。本文建立了XBeach一维海滩剖面演变数值模型,并与物理模型试验结果进行对比验证;计算常浪条件下不同方案补沙后海滩剖面达到平衡状态的速率;通过对比补沙工况与未补沙工况的风暴后剖面,分析风暴作用下的防护效果。结果发现,补沙量较大时,沙坝向海侧位置补沙在常浪条件下补沙效率高于滩肩补沙,在风暴条件下防护效果优于滩肩补沙。此次研究对于在实际海滩养护过程中节约施工成本、提高施工效率有着重要意义,同时对于评估沙滩养护工程效果有一定的参考价值。     

Identifying storm impacts on an embayed, high-energy coastline: examples from western Ireland

Large sections of the western Irish coast are characterised by a highly compartmentalised series of headland-embayment cells in which sand and gravel beaches are backed by large vegetated dune systems. Exposure to modally high-energy swell renders most of these beaches dissipative in character. A mesotidal range (c. 3.5–4.5 m) exists along much of the coast. Analysis of instrumental wind records from three locations permitted the identification of a variety of storm types and the construction of storm catalogues. Few individual storms were recorded at all three stations indicating a lack of regional consistency in storm record. Of the total storms recorded, only a small percentage are potentially damaging (onshore directed) and even fewer span a high tide and thus potentially induce a measurable morphological response at the coast.

Through a combination of historical records, meteorological records, field observations and wave modelling we attempt to assess the impact of storms. Quantifiable records of coastal morphology (maps, air photos and beach profiles) are few in number and do not generally record responses that may be definitely attributed to specific storms. Numerical wave simulations and observations at a variety of sites on the west Irish coast, however, provide insights into instantaneous and medium term (decadal) storm responses in such systems.

We argue that beaches and dunes that are attuned to modally high-energy regimes require extreme storms to cause significant morphological impact. The varying orientation of beaches, a spatially nonuniform storm catalogue and the need for a storm to occur at high water to produce measurable change, impart site-specific storm susceptibility to these embayments. Furthermore, we argue that long-period wave energy attenuation across dissipative shorefaces and beaches reduces coastal response to distant storms whereas short-period, locally generated wind waves are more likely to cause major dune and beach erosion as they arrive at the shoreline unrefracted.

This apparently variable response of beach and dune systems to storm forcing at a decadal scale over a coastline length of 200 km urges caution in generalising regarding regional-scale coastal responses to climatic change.     

山东半岛东部滨海沙滩对台风“米雷”的地貌响应

通过对台风“米雷”登陆前后山东半岛东部8个滨海沙滩地形地貌的现场调查以及一年后的重复调查对比分析了沙滩地貌形态的变化,并依据台风期间的风要素计算和评估了台风期间沙滩的沿岸输沙和横向输沙趋势,探讨了在热带风暴发生频次较低的地区沙滩的风暴响应模式和海岸恢复规律。研究结果表明,台风造成横向和纵向输沙量的增加和输沙方向的逆转是造成沙滩形态改变的主要因素,而在米雷登陆前的阶段横向和纵向输沙作用最为强烈。研究区内沙滩的风暴响应模式主要表现为侵蚀陡坎的形成和滩肩或滩面的侵蚀后退。与其他台风频发的区域不同,在研究区台风是一个偶然的强动力事件,因此台风特征对沙滩的风暴响应的作用更加明显。而沙滩剖面形态的作用,仅仅在耗散型沙滩上有所体现。此外,沙滩的走向是控制风暴作用强度的主要因素,并且与沙滩风后恢复密切相关。     

Coastal erosion through integrated management: A case of Southern Thailand

This study presents how Thailand applied an integrated approach to tackle erosion problems by using a case study in Nakorn Si Thammarat province. Communities along 36 km of coastline suffered from continual erosion. Community members believed the erosion was a natural phenomenon that was intensified by human actions. Historical erosion rate estimated by overlaying aerial photographs was about 5 m per year, while LITPROF simulations suggested that approximately 5 m of beach dune would be eroded by storm waves. Stakeholders were identified based on power and legitimacy criteria. Their past attempts to mitigate the erosion were analyzed. Conflicts arose from how they selected erosion protection methods. Lessons learnt from previous management failures taught that addressing needs of the stakeholders and consulting them throughout the design process were of importance. Finally, a combination of detached nearshore breakwaters and beach nourishment was the selected protection measure and was welcome by the communities.     

Statistical simulation of wave climate and extreme beach erosion

Recent developments in extreme values modelling have been used to develop a framework for determining the coastal erosion hazard on sandy coastlines. This framework quantitatively reproduced the extreme beach erosion volumes obtained from field measurements at Narrabeen Beach, Australia. This encouraging finding was achieved using Kriebel and Dean's [Kriebel, D.L. and Dean, R.G., 1993. Convolution method for time-dependent beach profile response. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 119(2): 204–226.] simple beach erosion and accretion model. The method includes allowances for joint probability between all basic erosion variates including; wave height, period and direction, event duration, tidal anomalies and event spacing. A new formulation for the dependency between wave height and period has been developed. It includes the physical wave steepness limitation. Event grouping, where significantly more erosion can occur from two closely spaced storms is handled by temporally simulating the synthetic wave climate and the resulting beach erosion and accretion.