未破碎变浅随机海浪的非线性模式

利用实测和实验室数据分析了未破碎变浅海浪波面高度分布三阶矩(或波面偏度)相对于Hs/d的空间演化,利用本文的经验关系,在二阶近似下,给出了以Hs/d为参量的非线性波面表示模式,并推导了功率谱、二阶谱以及波面高度分布函数等特征量.文中还讨论了波面偏度和峰度的相关关系.     

计算水位分布的标准差－偏度－峰度方法(BPF法)

海面水位各种高度的出现频率在海洋工程和航运中具有重要意义。为了得出其分布，最直接和可靠的方法当然是利用长期实测资料进行统计。但是在需要获得水位分布的地点往往没有足够长期的资料，这时就必须采用其他的方法来推算。 我国近海引起水位升降的主要因素是天文潮，故利用潮汐调和常数推算天文潮并考虑到到非天文因素的水位变化是一个比较可靠的办法。这个方法比较准确，但需要进行潮汐预报，计算量比较大。本文提出的方法所涉及的计算量很小，但仍能获得较好的效果。这个方法的基本出发点是：由于不同地点海面水位分布有一定的共性，水位分布和它的数字特征之间有密切的关系，而数字特征又决定于潮汐调和常数及非天文水位标准差，因而可利用潮汐调和常数及非天文水位标准差求得数字特征，然后进一步得出水位分布。这个方法所用到的数字特征为标准差、偏度和峰度，它们汉语拼音的第一个字母分别为B,P和F，故这个方法被称为BPF 法。 1977年我们提出 BPF 法时，主要应用于海图深度基准面，应用中的有关问题将另文讨论。     

A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves

ＡｎｏｎｌｉｎｅａｒｍｏｄｅｌｆｏｒｎｏｎｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｓｈｏａｌｉｎｇｒａｎｄｏｍｗａｖｅｓＬｉｕＸｉｎ＇ａｎ,ＨｕａｎｇＰｅｉｊｉ,ＣｈｅｎＸｕｅｙｉｎｇ,ＨｕＺｅｊｉａｎ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ１５,１９９６,ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＡｕｇｕ...     

非线性随机表面Kirchhoff散射模式

自从Longuet-Higgins(1963)根据非线性作用导出较正态分布为准确的波面高度分布以来,高阶矩在军事、高科技等很多方面得到了应用。Huang等(1980)曾检验了高阶非线性分布,他们发现当波高概率分布中包含直至四阶项时与观测结果相符,但如果考虑更高阶不但效果不好,反而更差。尽管非线性随机过程在海浪理论中获得了广泛的应用,但对海面雷达散射研究仅讨论到三阶矩的影响(Fung et al.,1991;Chen et al.,1992)。电磁随机表面散射理论有适应大尺度随机起伏的粗糙面的Kirchhoff散射模式、轻度粗糙表面的微扰散射模式、大小尺度独立叠加的双尺度散射模式、全波散射模式(Bahar,1987)和积分方程散射模式(Chen et al.,1992)等。对随机粗糙Kirchhoff表面电磁波散射问题,尽管几十年来许多科学家已经进行了大量研究(Fung et al.,1991; Ulaby et al.,1982;Wu et al.,1988),Eom等(1983)曾对Gaussian面和非 Gaussian面的散射特性进行了比较研究,Fung等(1991)将Kirchhoff散射模式推广应用到三阶粗糙随机表面,然而更高阶矩对散射截面的影响还未见报道。本文在Fung等(1991)的基础上将Kirchhoff散射模式推广应用到四阶项,并对模式的应用进行了分析和讨论。     

Observations of freak waves in random wave field in 2D experimental wave flume

Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.     

渤海沿岸固定冰粗糙特征的实测研究

The surface roughness characteristics(e.g., height and slope) of sea ice are critical for determining the parameters of an electromagnetic scattering, a surface emission and a surface drag coefficients. It is also important in identifying various ice types, retrieval ice thickness, surface temperature and drag coefficients from remote sensing data. The point clouds(a set of points which are usually defined by X, Y, and Z coordinates that represents the external surface of an object on earth) of land fast ice in five in situ sites in the eastern coast Bohai Sea were measured using a laser scanner-Trimble GX during 2011–2012 winter season. Two hundred and fifty profiles selected from the point clouds of different samples have been used to calculate the height root mean square, height skewness, height kurtosis, slope root mean square, slope skewness and slope kurtosis of them. The root mean square of the height, the root mean square of the slope and the correlation length are about 0.090, 0.075 and 11.74 m, respectively. The heights of 150 profiles in three sites manifest the Gaussian distribution and the slopes of total 250 profiles distributed exponentially. In addition, the fractal dimension and power spectral density profiles were calculated. The results show that the fractal dimension of land fast ice in the Bohai Sea is about 1.132. The power spectral densities of 250 profiles can be expressed through an exponential autocorrelation function.     

Probability distributions of peaks,troughs and heights of wind waves measured in the black sea coastal zone

The present paper examines the adequacy of different probability density functions to describe the peaks, troughs and peak-to-trough excursions of wind waves measured in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea. For that purpose various theories for non-Gaussian random process are applied. Some theories depend on the mean, variance and coefficient of skewness γ₃ of the process. Others also take the coefficient of kurtosis γ₄ into consideration. The analyzed field data are gathered in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea with depth decreasing from 18 to 1.3 m. The measurements are carried out simultaneously for 11 points with time series of 20 min duration. The coefficients of skewness and kurtosis in those time series are expressed as functions of depth and spectral peak frequency. Analogous dependencies on depth of other parameters are also found. As a result of the investigation it is concluded that the probabilities of occurrence of large wave crests and heights are underpredicted by all of the theories considered.     

Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states

A data set of storm wave records from the North Sea is analysed. Using current definitions of abnormal waves, eight of the largest wind waves are defined as abnormal waves. Twenty-four of the largest waves in time series, with a height larger than 10 m and with big vertical asymmetry are chosen for further analysis. Their individual characteristics are investigated and related to the global sea state characteristics. A comparison between measured data, second-order theory predictions and offshore basin data is made. The results for the chosen waves do not coincide with predictions of second-order theory. Considering that wind wave is second- and third-order non-linear, a new relationship between skewness and kurtosis is proposed for the sea states in which extremely asymmetric large waves have occurred. Another relationship between kurtosis and abnormality index of maximum waves is proposed too.     

Effects of wave breaking on wave statistics for deep-water random wave train

The experimental studies of the breaking effects on wave statistics for deep-water random waves are presented. It is especially focused on the behavior of kurtosis of surface elevations due to wave breaking. Wave breaking suppresses the maximum limit of kurtosis of the surface elevation, although skewness depends on characteristic wave steepness. The mean instantaneous wave steepness of breaking waves defined using the zero-down-crossing method was much lower than expected from the Stokes waves.     

Nonlinear properties of laboratory wind waves at energy containing frequencies

Nonlinear properties of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel are investigated by measuring the probability density distribution of surface elevation. The surface elevation distribution of raw records are found to have a positive skewness (K ₃=0.21 to 0.43) and a negative kurtosis (K ₄=–0.74 to –0.41) with magnitude depending of fetch and wind speed. The values of skewness are in qualitative agreement with a prediction of the weak interaction theory for a random wave field incorporating the effects of second harmonics (Tayfun, 1980), but the values of kurtosis are different in sign from the prediction.To examine the nonlinear properties of energy containing components, higher harmonic components are excluded from the wave records by using a kind of a band-pass filter. The surface elevation distributions of the filtered waves show a sharp decrease in skewness , but the distributions remain highly non-Gaussian with a large negative kurtosis almost independent of the fetch and wind speed . It is concluded that the negative kurtosis is due to the non-random character of the phase and amplitude among the energy containing components, and that nonlinear interactions occur amongst the energy containing frequencies.     

设计波高推算的一种新模型

考虑台风影响海域的设计波高,结合复合极值理论和最大熵原则,构造了1种新型的具有4个待定参量和1个台风频次参量的poisson-最大熵分布函数模型,并推导出求解参数的方程组,参数的数值解可通过年极值实测数据的期望、方差、偏度和峰度得到.以黄海某观测站26 a极值波高的实测数据为例计算了新模型中4个待定参量和多年一遇设计波高,并与传统常用计算方法得到的结果进行比较.比较表明,新模型相比传统方法具有一定的优势.     

Skewed Occurrence Frequency of Water Temperature and Salinity in the Subarctic Regions

In a previous paper (Oguma and Nagata, 2002), it was shown that frequency distributions of temperature and salinity in the sea off Sanriku Coast, Japan are skewed, and sometimes observed values exceed m + 5σ (m = mean, σ = standard deviation). This means that, if we apply a 3σ criterion for a range check, many real data would be lost. We have expanded our analysis to the subarctic North Pacific, the subarctic North Atlantic and their surrounding areas, by computing the distributions of skewness and kurtosis. It is found that the region of high positive skewness extends in an east-north-east direction in the Mixed Water Region from off Sanriku, and reaches to about 155°E. A high negative skewness zone is recognized along the southern margin of the Kuroshio Extension. These are thought to be generated by the breaking of the meander of the Kuroshio Extension and subsequent ejection of warm and cold eddies to the north and south, respectively. Other high positive skewness areas are found to the south of Kuril Islands and in the Japan Sea. These are generated due to very sharp vertical gradients of temperature and salinity. The situation in the North Atlantic is very similar to the North Pacific, though the detailed nature is changed due to differences of oceanographic condition. The effect of grid size on the skewed nature of the distribution is also discussed. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Variability of Sea Surface Heights in the Baltic Sea: An Intercomparison of Observations and Model Simulations

Sea level changes in the Baltic Sea are dominated by internal, short-term variations that are mostly caused by the ephemeral nature of atmospheric conditions over the Baltic area. Tides are small and their influence decreases from western parts of the Baltic Sea to the Baltic Proper. Superimposed to the large short-term sea level changes (up to few decimeters from day to day) are seasonal and interannual variations (centimeters to decimeters). This study focuses on the comparison of sea surface heights obtained from observations and from a high resolution oceanographic model of the Baltic Sea. From this comparison, the accuracy of the modeled sea surface variations is evaluated, which is a necessary precondition for the further use of the oceanographic model in geodetic applications. The model reproduces all observed Baltic sea level variations very reliably with an accuracy of 5 to 9 cm (rms) for short-term variations (up to 2 months) and 8 cm (rms) for long-term variations (>2 months). An additional improvement of the model can be attained by including long-period sea level variations of the North Sea. The model performs well also in the case of extreme sea level events, as is shown for a major storm surge that occurred at the southern coast of the Baltic Sea in November 1995.     

Retracking of Jason-1 Data

We present the results of retracking 18 cycles (15 from the Jason-TOPEX collinear period) of Jason-1 data. We used the retracking method of Rodriguez which simultaneously solves for all relevant waveform parameters using a 26 Gaussian model of the altimeter point target response. We find significant differences from the Jason-1 Project retracking in the key parameters of range and significant wave height (SWH) in the second version of the Project SGDRs. The differences from the Jason-1 data have a strong dependence on off-nadir angle and some dependence on SWH. The dependence of range on SWH is what is called sea state bias. The retracking technique also estimates surface skewness. For Jason-1 with its very clean waveforms we make the first direct estimates of the skewness effect on altimeter data. We believe that the differences found here and thus in overall sea surface height are the result of the standard project processing using a single Gaussian approximation to the Point Target Response (PTR) and not solving simultaneously for off nadir angle. We believe that the relatively large sea state bias errors estimated empirically for Jason-1 during the cal/val phase result from sensitivity of quantities, particularly SWH, in project GDRs to off nadir angle. The TOPEX-Jason-1 bias can be determined only when a full retracking of Jason-1 is done for the collinear period.     

Retracking of Jason-1 Data

We present the results of retracking 18 cycles (15 from the Jason-TOPEX collinear period) of Jason-1 data. We used the retracking method of Rodriguez which simultaneously solves for all relevant waveform parameters using a 26 Gaussian model of the altimeter point target response. We find significant differences from the Jason-1 Project retracking in the key parameters of range and significant wave height (SWH) in the second version of the Project SGDRs. The differences from the Jason-1 data have a strong dependence on off-nadir angle and some dependence on SWH. The dependence of range on SWH is what is called sea state bias. The retracking technique also estimates surface skewness. For Jason-1 with its very clean waveforms we make the first direct estimates of the skewness effect on altimeter data. We believe that the differences found here and thus in overall sea surface height are the result of the standard project processing using a single Gaussian approximation to the Point Target Response (PTR) and not solving simultaneously for off nadir angle. We believe that the relatively large sea state bias errors estimated empirically for Jason-1 during the cal/val phase result from sensitivity of quantities, particularly SWH, in project GDRs to off nadir angle. The TOPEX-Jason-1 bias can be determined only when a full retracking of Jason-1 is done for the collinear period.     

陇西盆地晚更新世风成堆积物粒度参数的对比

计算了末次冰期旋回陇西盆地的黄土古土壤和风成砂的粒度参数，并对图解法与矩值法粒度参数进行了对比。结果表明，对黄土古土壤来说两种方法所获得的平均粒径基本相同，分选系数、偏度和偏态的相关性逐渐降低，对风成砂和砂黄土来说，除了平均粒径呈较好的线性相关外，其他参数则差别很大。造成这种差异的主要原因是由于它们粒度组分的分布不同所致。图解法主要反映了样品总体中主要粒度组分的粒度特征，而矩值法则反映了样品的总体特征。在沉积环境的分析和比较中，应充分考虑这两种方法的差异，并建立不同的标准。激光粒度仪和吸管法对平行样品测试的图解计算结果表明，粒度参数的变化趋势比较接近。     

中国东部陆架表层沉积物粒度特征及其沉积环境浅析

对取自中国东部陆架海的209个表层沉积物样品进行了粒度分析及沉积物类型划分,探讨细颗粒沉积区分布格局与物源和环流体系的关系。结果表明,研究区底质类型主要有砂、粉砂质砂、泥质砂、砂质粉砂、砂质泥、粉砂和泥,个别站位含砾石。表层沉积物以粗颗粒砂质沉积为主,其主要分布在东海中北部、苏北浅滩、北黄海北部,其粒度特征主要为:平均粒径2～4Φ,分选差(分选系数>2),偏态极正偏(2～2.80),峰态很宽至宽(1.60～3.50);细颗粒泥质沉积主要分布在浙江沿岸至长江口外、苏北老黄河口外、南黄海中部、北黄海西南部及黄河口外的渤海海域,其粒度特征主要为:平均粒径6～7Φ,分选差至较差(分选系数1～2.5),偏态负偏(-1.50～-0.33)至近于对称(-0.33～+0.33),峰态很宽(>2.75)。从环流的流向与路径及邻近的河流物源角度,初步探讨了河流输入物质及环流体系对细颗粒沉积物沉积分布格局的影响,并初步推断了细颗粒沉积物的物源及基本输移路径。     

图解法与矩法沉积物粒度参数的对比

采用Folk Ward图解法公式和McManus矩法公式 ,分别计算了山东半岛月湖地区 2 70个底质样品的粒度参数 (粒度分析用Cilas 940L型激光粒度仪与筛析法相结合 )并进行了比较。分析结果显示 ,两种方法所获的平均粒径和分选系数基本相同 ,偏态值相差较大 (但仍存在显著相关性 ) ,而峰态值不能相互转换。偏态值差异的原因在于 ,图解法的偏态指示了主要粒度组分的尾部特征 ,而矩法的偏态反映了样品总体的尾部特征。峰态值的差异是由于图解法所反映的往往只是样品的某一组分的粒度特征 ,计算方法比较粗略 ,而矩法反映了样品的总体特征 ,计算方法比较精确。在沉积环境分析、粒径趋势分析、历史数据解译时 ,应充分考虑这两种方法的差异。     

南海北部海面风速概率分布特征

利用南海北部的浮标、石油平台观测的海面风资料,分析了0~200 km范围内,不同离岸距离站点的风速的概率分布特征。观测结果指出,各站平均风速一般最大值出现在冬季,最小值出现在夏季,具有明显的季节变化特征,并且平均风速随着离岸距离的增大也逐渐增大。对于离岸距离较近的区域（100 km以内）,海面风基本符合双参数的Weibull分布,但对于100 km以外的海面风速概率分布与Weibull分布存在明显差异,随着离岸距离的增大,平均风速和风速标准偏差也相应增大。风速平均值与风速标准偏差的比值较小时,Weibull分布的偏斜度基本为正值,当比值较大时偏斜度转为负值。随着离岸距离的增大,出现与Weibull分布不一致的情况越来越多,且与对应的Weibull分布相比,其偏斜度越小,风速概率分布越不能用Weibull分布进行较好拟合。     

Numerical simulation of non-gaussian process of wind waves

In this paper further mathematical analysis on "correlation transfer technique" by Polge el al. is carried out, the tenable conditions and the extent of suitability for the said method are proved as well. In consideration of the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on spectral shape, a "quasi-correlation transfer techique" is developed by the modification of the simulated target spectrum. Meanwhile, the numerical simulation of the non-Gaussian process of wind waves is carried out in view of the two conditions of the surface elevation probability distribution and the spectrum. By using its simulated results, the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on two parameters in the distribution of wave heights (which had been fitted by using the Weibull distribution) is analysed. The "quasi- correlation tranfer technique" is verified and compared with the selection wave data observed in the Jiaozhou Bay in the period of 1980 to 1981. Results make clear (hat, as far as the statistical d