斜向波浪作用下双层水平板式防波堤波浪荷载试验研究

In this study, systematic physical model tests were performed to investigate the wave forces on the twin-plate breakwater under irregular waves. Based on the experimental results, the effects of the relative plate width B/L,wave height Hs/D and incident angle θ0 on the wave forces were analyzed and discussed. The results showed that:(1) The envelopes of the total wave pressure were generally symmetrical along the direction of plate width under the incident angles(θ0) being 0°, 15°, 30°, 45° and 60°. In particular, the envelopes of wave pressure atθ0=30° were larger than all other cases.(2) The synchronous pressure distribution of the breakwater under oblique wave action was more complicated comparing to the normal incident waves.(3) Based on data analysis, an empirical formula was obtained to estimate the total vertical force of the twin-plate breakwater.This empirical formula can be a good reference for the design basis of engineering applications under specified wave conditions.     

Simulating the Propagation of Infrasonic Waves and Estimating the Energy of the Chelyabinsk Meteoroid Explosion Observed on February 15, 2013

Results obtained from simulating the propagation of infrasonic waves from the Chelyabinsk meteoroid explosion observed on February 15, 2013, are given. The pseudodifferential parabolic equation (PDPE) method has been used for calculations. Data on infrasonic waves recorded at the IS31 station (Aktyubinsk, Kazakhstan), located 542.7 km from the likely location of the explosion, have been analyzed. Six infrasonic arrivals (isolated clearly defined pulse signals) were recorded. It is shown that the first “fast” arrival (F) corresponds to the propagation of infrasound in a surface acoustic waveguide. The rest of the arrivals (T1–T5) are thermospheric. The agreement between the results of calculations based on the PDPE method and experimental data is satisfactory. The energy E of the explosion has been estimated using two methods. One of these methods is based on the law of conservation of the acoustic pulse I, which is a product of the wave profile area S/2 of the signal under analysis and the distance to its source E _I [kt] = 1.38 × 10^–10 (I [kg/s])^1.482. The other method is based on the relation between the energy of explosion and the dominant period T of recorded signal E _T [kt] = 1.02 × (T [s]²/σ)^3/2, where σ is the dimensionless distance determining the degree of nonlinear effects during the propagation of sound along ray trajectories. According to the data, the explosion energy E _I,T ranges from 1.87 to 32 kt TNT.     

Wave Activity and Its Changes in the Troposphere and Stratosphere of the Northern Hemisphere in Winters of 1979–2016

An analysis of spectra of wave disturbances with zonal wave numbers 1 ≤ k ≤ 10 is carried out using winter (November to March) ERA-Interim reanalysis geopotential data in the troposphere and stratosphere for 1979–2016. Contributions of eastward-traveling (E), westward-traveling (W), and stationary (S) waves are estimated. The intensification of wave activity is observed in the tropical troposphere and stratosphere and in the upper stratosphere of the entire Northern Hemisphere. The intensification of wave activity in the tropics and subtropics is noted for waves of all types (E, W, and S), while in the middle and higher latitudes it is related mainly to stationary and eastward waves. Near the subtropical tropopause, the energy of stationary waves has increased in recent decades. In addition, in the tropical and subtropical troposphere and in the subtropical lower stratosphere, the energy of the eastward-traveling waves in El Niño years may be one and a half times or twice the energy in La Niña years. The spectrally weighted zonal wave numbers for waves of all types (E, W, and S) are the largest in the upper subtropical troposphere. The spectrally weighted zonal wave number for W and S waves is correlated with the Atlantic Multidecadal Oscillation index and varies by 15% in 1979–2016 (on an interdecadal time scale). The spectrally weighted wave period is larger in the stratosphere than in the troposphere. It is maximal in the middle extratropical stratosphere. The spectrally weighted wave periods correlate with the activity of sudden stratospheric warmings. The sign of this correlation depends on the latitude, atmospheric layer, and zonal wave number.     

Features of the atmospheric boundary layer block for three versions of the WAM wind wave model

The estimated characteristics of the atmospheric boundary layer, obtained by the simulation of wind wave fields using three versions of the WAM numerical model are compared with the well-known empirical dependences of drag coefficient C _d on wind speed U ₁₀ and wave age A, as well as with the dependence of dimensionless roughness height z _n on inverse wave age u*/с р. Calculations carried out for several years in the areas of the Pacific and Indian oceans, based on the ERA-interim and CFSR wind reanalyses have shown good agreement between the model and empirical dependences C _d (U ₁₀) and C _d (A). The range of estimated variability for z _n (u*/с _р ) has been found to be significantly less than empirical. It has been also found that estimated values of wind speed U _10W (t) are overestimated from 5 to 10% in all versions of WAM models compared with the input wind reanalysis U _10R (t) at the moments of appearance maximum values of wind U _10R (t). The reasons for the established features of the WAM model and their dependence on the model version are discussed.     

Studying the sea surface slopes using an array of wave gauge sensors

The deviations of the marine surface slope spectra (measured using an array of wave gauge sensors) from the theoretical estimates obtained using the linear spectral model of the wave field are analyzed. It has been indicated that the average measured full slope spectra (the sum of the slope component spectra in the orthogonal directions) is higher than the theoretical estimates by 6% at frequencies from the surface wave spectral peak (f _m ) to 4.5 f _m . The difference between the measured and theoretical estimates of the full slope spectrum rapidly increases at frequencies of f < f _m . At f _m ≈ 0.75 f _m , the average measured full slope spectrum is higher than the theoretical estimate by a factor of more than 5.     

A note on a critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes

Wind and wind-generated waves were measured in a wind-wave tank. A clear transition was found in the relation between the wind speed U ₁₀ and the wind friction velocity u _* near u _* = 0.2 m/s, where U ₁₀ is the wind speed at 10 m height extrapolated from the measured wind profile in a logarithmic layer, and u _* = 0.2 m/s corresponds roughly to U ₁₀ = 8 m/s in the present measurement. Quite a similar transition was found in the relation between the spectral density of high frequency wind waves and u _*. These results suggest the existence of the critical wind speed for air–sea boundary processes, which was proposed by Munk (J Marine Res 6:203–218, 1947) more than half a century ago. His original idea of the critical wind speed was based on the discontinuities in such phenomena as white caps, wind stress, and evaporation, which commonly appear at a wind speed near 7 m/s. On the basis of the results of our present study and those of earlier studies, we discuss the phenomena which are relevant to the critical wind speed for the air–sea boundary processes. The conclusion is that the critical wind speed exists and it is attributed to the start of wave breaking rather than the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability, but the air–sea boundary processes are not discontinuous at a particular wind speed; because of the stochastic nature of breaking waves, the changes occur over a range of wind speeds. Detailed discussions are presented on the dynamical processes associated with the critical wind speed such as wind-induced change of sea surface roughness and high frequency wave spectrum. Future studies are required, however, to clarify the dynamical processes quantitatively. In particular, there is a need to further examine the gradual change of breaking patterns of wind waves with the increase of wind speed, and the associated change of the structure of the wind over wind waves, such as separation of the airflow at the crest of wind waves, the turbulent stress, and wave-induced stress. Studies on the dynamical structure of the high frequency wave spectrum are also needed.     

C波段紧缩极化SAR海冰探测能力评估

The C-band synthetic aperture radar(SAR) data from the Bohai Sea of China, the Labrador Sea in the Arctic and the Weddell Sea in the Antarctic are used to analyze and discuss the sea ice full polarimetric information reconstruction ability under compact polarimetric modes. The type of compact polarimetric mode which has the highest reconstructed accuracy is analyzed, along with the performance impact of the reconstructed pseudo quad-pol SAR data on the sea ice detection and sea ice classification. According to the assessment and analysis, it is recommended to adopt the CTLR mode for reconstructing the polarimetric parameters σ_(HH)~0,σ_(VV)~0, H and α,while for reconstructing the polarimetric parameters σ_(HV)~0, ρ_(H-V), λ_1 and λ_2, it is recommended to use the π/4 mode.Moreover, it is recommended to use the π/4 mode in studying the action effects between the electromagnetic waves and sea ice, but it is recommended to use the CTLR mode for studying the sea ice classification.     

A new formula for saturated water steam pressure within the temperature range −25 to 220°C

Instead of approximation formula ln(E(t)/E(0)) = [(a ? bt)t/(c + T)] commonly used at present for representing dependence of pressure of saturated streams of liquid water E upon temperature we suggested new approximation formula of greater accuracy in the form ln(E(t)/E(0)) = [(A ? Bt + Ct ²)t/T], where t and T are temperature in °C and K respectively. For this formula with parameters A = 19.846, B = 8.97 × 10^?3, C = 1.248 × 10^?5 and E(0) = 6.1121 GPa with ITS-90 temperature scale and for temperature range from 0°C to 110°C relative difference of approximation applying six parameter formula by W. Wagner and A. Pruß 2002, developed for positive temperatures, is less than 0.005%, that is approximately 15 times less than accuracy obtained with the firs formula. Increase of temperature range results in relative difference increasing, but for even temperature range from 0°C to 220°C it does not higher than 0.1%. For negative temperatures relative difference between our formula and a formula of D. M. Murphy and T. Koop, 2005, is less than 0.1% for temperatures higher than ?25°C. This paper also presents values of coefficients for approximation of Goff and Grach formula recommended by IMO. The procedure of finding dew point T _d for known water steam pressure e _n based on our formula adds up to solving an algebraic equation of a third degree, which coefficients are presented in this paper. For simplifying this procedure this paper also includes approximation ratio applying a coefficient A noted above, in the form T _d (e _n ) = \(\frac{{AT_0 }}{{A - \varepsilon }}\) + 0.0866?² + 0.0116?^10/3, where ? = ln(e _n /E(T ₀)). Error of dew point recovery in this ratio is less than 0.005 K within the range from 0 to 50°C.     

Generation mechanism of an alongshore bar on a sandy beach slope

A model explaining the mechanism of alongshore bar formation from the point of view of the sediment balance in the surf zone is considered. A cloud of suspended matter that appears during wave breaking is transported shoreward and simultaneously sediments forming a vertical material flux directed to the bottom (S). Simultaneously, an undertow generates a horizontal offshore flux of suspended matter q _x . Under these conditions, the sediment balance is determined by the equality of the flux -S and the gradient dq _x /dx. The bottom profile satisfying the balance equation is a bar profile with the crest at the point of the flux maximum -S. The model predicts a concave profile of the seaside slope and a concave-convex profile of the slope in the trough. A conclusion is reached on the basis of the calibration and verification of the model based on the field data that the suggested mechanism manifests itself differently in the outer and inner zones of the coastal zone. In the inner zone, the horizontal size of the bar is determined by the length of short wind waves, while, in the outer one, it is determined by the length of the infragravity waves related to the groups of short waves. It is shown that the model can be applied to estimate the parameters of the largest bar in the inner part of the coastal zone.     

Regional long-period magnitude scales and their capabilities for tsunami warning

The tsunami warning system in the Russian Far East employs the medium-period magnitude MS (BB) by Vaniek–Soloviev. However, its use may lead to inadequacies and underestimates for the tsunamigenic potential of an earthquake. Specifically, this can happen in the case of a so-called tsunami–earthquake. This kind of earthquakes with a nonstandard spectrum was revealed by H. Kanamori in 1972. This problem can be overcome by using a magnitude scale that deals with longer period seismic waves. This study develops a technique for determining the magnitudes at regional distances (from 70 to 4500 km) using the amplitudes of surface seismic waves of periods of 40 and 80 s. At distances of 70–250 km, the amplitude of the joint group of shear and surface waves is used. For the new magnitudes designated M _S(40) and M _S(80), experimental calibration curves are constructed using more than 1250 three-component records at 12 stations of the region. The magnitudes are calibrated so as to produce an unbiased estimate of the moment magnitude M _w in the critical range 7.5–8.8. The rms error of the single-station estimate M _w is around 0.27. At distances below 250 km and M _w ≥ 8.3, the estimate of M _w obtained by the proposed technique becomes saturated at the level of M _w ~ 8.3, which is acceptable for operative analysis because no missed alarms arise. The technique can be used in operational tsunami warning based on seismological data. This can markedly decrease the number of false alarms.     

Determining the influence of wind-wave breaking on the dissipation of the turbulent kinetic energy in the upper ocean and on the dependence of the turbulent kinetic energy on the stage of wind-wave development

New experimental data that make it possible to explain and predict the observed variability of turbulent-energy dissipation in the upper ocean are discussed. For this purpose, the dependence of the energy dissipation rate of breaking wind waves on their propagation velocity (see [1]) is used. The turbulent-energy dissipation values obtained earlier in [2, 3] by a direct method are compared to the results of radar measurements of individual breaking events presented in [1]. On the basis of this comparison, a strong dependence of the turbulent-energy dissipation value on the stage of wind-wave development, which is characterized by the ratio U _a /c _p (U _a is the wind speed and c _p is the phase speed of the peak of the wind-wave spectrum) is confirmed. This dependence was found earlier purely empirically. Moreover, it is shown that the theoretically obtained dependence (c _p /U _a )⁴, does not contradict the available empirical data. The results of this study opens possibilities for scientifically substantiated calculations of greenhouse-gas exchange (specifically, CO₂ exchange between the ocean and the atmosphere).     

The Role of Evolution Mechanisms in the Formation of a Wind-Wave Equilibrium Spectrum

The formation of a stationary (equilibrium) range in a wind-wave spectrum is investigated by numerical simulation. The equation of evolution of the wind-wave spectrum is solved using the exact calculation of the Hasselmann kinetic integral and involving various modifications of known parameterizations of the mechanisms of wave pumping by wind (In) and of wave dissipation (Dis). It is shown that it is these two mechanisms that are responsible for the shape of the stationary range of the wind-wave spectrum, whereas the nonlinear mechanism plays a stabilizing but subsidiary role. With an appropriate choice of mathematical representations for In and Dis, any known empirical shape of the stationary range of the spectrum can be obtained. During the calculations it is found that, for real wind waves, the known representations of In and Dis do not ensure the existence of the inertial interval required for Kolmogorov-type spectra formation due to the nonlinear interactions between waves.     

Phytoplankton production characteristics in the Eastern Atlantic and Atlantic sector of the Southern Ocean in October–November 2004

Production parameters of surface phytoplankton were measured along three transects: La Manche-Cape Town (I); Cape Town-54°S (II); 0°-49°W (along 54°S) (III). The Canary upwelling waters were most productive along transect I, where the surface chlorophyll a (Chl ₀) and the surface primary production (PP ₀) were as high as 4.3 mg/m³ and 173 mg C/m³ per day, respectively. Mosaic patterns in the distribution of these parameters were recorded in the northeastern regions of the South Subtropical Anticyclonic Gyre (Chl ₀ = 0.03–0.35 mg/m³; PP ₀ = 1.6–12.6 mg C/m³ per day). Along transect II, the average twofold southward increase in Chl ₀ (from 0.2 to 0.4 mg/m³) and the concurrent decline of the phytoplankton assimilation activity ( AN ₀) resulted in deviations from typical latitudinal changes inPP ₀. At most sites, PP ₀ values varied between 6 and 15 mg C/m³ per day. Negligible changes in Chl ₀ (0.36–0.85 mg/m³), PP ₀ (8–19 mg C/m³ per day), and AN ₀ (0.7–1.6 mg C/mg chl a per hour) were registered for the oceanic waters along transect III. Along all the transects, PP ₀ depended on Chl ₀ to a greater extent than AN ₀. The values of the latter parameter were largely determined by the water temperature and showed a slight correlation with the insolation. Along transect II, the integrated primary production (PP _int) and the layer-integrated chlorophyll a in the upper 200 m (Chl _0–200) generally varied from 180 to 360 mg C/m² per day and from 30 to 70 mg/m², respectively. In the Polar Front region, an increase in Chl _0–200, PP _int, Chl ₀, and PP ₀ up to respective values of 190 mg/m², 520 mg C/m² per day, 1.2 mg/m³, and 32 mg C/m³ per day was observed. A comparison of the water column (0–100 m) stability with the vertical distribution of the primary production and chlorophyll content along transect II implies that the thick (>100 m) upper mixed layer (UML) formed in response to the strong water cooling and wind forcing was largely responsible for the limited primary production in the Subantarctic and Antarctic regions. The large UML thickness resulted in an intense removal of plant cells from the photosynthetic layer and light starvation of a significant (up to 60%) part of the phytoplankton community.     

Waves and diffusion on the sea surface

The frequency spectrum of surface elevations in the presence of wind waves is well known. On this basis, one can estimate the frequency spectrum of vertical velocities in sea-surface waves. Owing to liquid incompressibility, the spectrum of horizontal velocities should have the same frequency dependence. The use of the dispersion equation for waves on the surface of a heavy liquid allows one to obtain to the spatial spectrum of velocities. Therefore, one can estimate the spatial structure function of the velocity field. For short waves and large depths, the structure function increases as r ^1/2, where r is the distance between the points of observations. For long waves and shallow depths h, this increase is proportional to r. The coefficient of turbulent mixing K(r) of pollution spots of size r on the sea surface is now estimated as the product of the spot size and the rms difference of velocities. As a result, depending on r and h, the exponent in the r ⁿ dependence of K(r) may vary between 1.25 and 1.5. This outcome provides an explanation for a scatter in the values of the exponent n, a phenomenon that has been observed by many experimentalists.     

Retrieval of total ozone in the mesosphere with a new model of electronic-vibrational kinetics of O<Subscript>3</Subscript> and O<Subscript>2</Subscript> photolysis products

The paper presents a new model of electronic-vibrational kinetics of the products of ozone and molecular oxygen photodissociation in the terrestrial middle atmosphere. The model includes 45 excited states of the oxygen molecules O₂(b ¹, Σ _g ⁺ ,v= 0−2), O₂ (a ¹Δ _g , v= 0−5), and O₂(X ³Σ _g ⁻ , v= 1−35) and of the metastable atom O (¹ D) and over 100 aeronomic reactions. The model takes into account the dependence of quantum yields of the production of O₂(a ¹Δ _g , v= 0−5) in a singlet channel of ozone photolysis in the Hartley band on the wavelength of photolytic emission. Taking account of the electronic-vibrational kinetics is important in retrieval of the vertical profiles of ozone concentration from measured intensities of the Atm and IR Atm emissions of the oxygen bands above 65 km and leads to an increase in the ozone concentration retrieved from the 1.27-μm emission, in contrast to the previous model of pure electronic kinetics. Sensitivity analysis of the new model is made for variations in the concentrations of atmospheric constituents ([O₂], [N₂], [O(³P)], [O₃], [CO₂]), the gas temperature, rate constants of the reactions, and quantum yields of the reaction products. A group of reactions that most strongly affect the uncertainty of ozone retrieval from measured intensities of atmospheric emissions of molecular oxygen O₂(b ¹Σ _g ⁺ , v) and O₂(a ¹Δ _g , v) has been determined. Original Russian Text ? V.A. Yankovsky, V.A. Kuleshov, R.O. Manuilova, A.O. Semenov, 2007, published in Izvestiya AN. Fizika Atmosfery i Okeana, 2007, Vol. 43, No. 4, pp. 557–569.     

Using the acoustic-pulse conservation law in estimating the energy of surface acoustic sources by remote sounding

The atmospheric effect on the characteristics of infrasonic signals from explosions has been studied. New methods have been proposed to remotely estimate the energy of explosions using the data of infrasonic wave registration. One method is based on the law of conservation of acoustic pulse I, which is equal to the product of the wave profile area S/2 of the studied infrasonic signal and the distance to the source E_I [kt] = 1.38 × 10^–10 (I [kg/s])^1.482. The second method is based on the relationship between the explosion energy and the dominant period T of the recorded signal, EТ [kt] =1.02 × (Т [s]²/σ)^3/2, where σ is a dimensionless distance used for determining the degree of manifestation of nonlinear effects in the propagation of sound along ray trajectories. When compared to the conventional E_W (Whitaker’s) relation, the advantage of the EI relation is that it can be used for pulsed sources located at an arbitrary height over the land surface and having an arbitrary form of the initial-pulse profile and for any type of infrasonic arrivals. A distinctive feature of the expression for E_Т is that the atmospheric effect on the characteristics of recorded infrasonic signals is explicitly taken into account. These methods have been tested using infrasonic data recorded at a distance of 322 km from the sources (30 explosions caused by a fire that occurred at the Pugachevo armory in Udmurtia on June 2, 2011). For the same explosion, empirical relations have been found between energy values obtained by different methods: E_I = 1.107 × E _W , E _Т = 2.201 × E _I .     

Estimating the parameters of pulsed sources from data on acoustic waves recorded in the atmosphere

The possibility of estimating the parameters of surface pulsed sources from data on acoustic waves recorded in the atmosphere is studied. Experimental values are given for peak pressure P ₊ of recorded acoustic signals, wave-profile area S ₊ in their positive phase, and length t ₊ of this phase, and the approximations of these parameters are obtained within wide ranges of source energy 10^–3 < E < 10¹⁰ kg TNT and scaled distances 1 < R/E ^1/3 < 4 × 10⁴ m/kg^1/3. Conventional methods of estimating the acoustic energy E according to data obtained from acoustic measurements in the atmosphere are analyzed, and ways to improve their accuracy are proposed. The influence of the type of explosions on the parameters P ₊, S ₊, and t ₊ of acoustic signals at long distances R/E ^1/3 > 500 m/kg^1/3 from explosions is shown.     

Ultimate Lateral Capacity of Rigid Pile in <Emphasis Type="Italic">c</Emphasis>–<Emphasis Type="Italic">φ</Emphasis> Soil

To date no analytical solution of the pile ultimate lateral capacity for the general c–φ soil has been obtained. In the present study, a new dimensionless embedded ratio was proposed and the analytical solutions of ultimate lateral capacity and rotation center of rigid pile in c–φ soils were obtained. The results showed that both the dimensionless ultimate lateral capacity and dimensionless rotation center were the univariate functions of the embedded ratio. Also, the ultimate lateral capacity in the c–φ soil was the combination of the ultimate lateral capacity (f _c ) in the clay, and the ultimate lateral capacity (f _φ ) in the sand. Therefore, the Broms chart for clay, solution for clay (φ=0) put forward by Poulos and Davis, solution for sand (c=0) obtained by Petrasovits and Awad, and Kondner’s ultimate bending moment were all proven to be the special cases of the general solution in the present study. A comparison of the field and laboratory tests in 93 cases showed that the average ratios of the theoretical values to the experimental value ranged from 0.85 to 1.15. Also, the theoretical values displayed a good agreement with the test values.     

Oceanic processes of upper ocean heat content associated with two types of ENSO

The spatiotemporal variability of equatorial Pacific upper ocean heat content (HC) and subsurface heat during two types of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO), namely eastern and central Pacific (EP and CP) types, is investigated using subsurface ocean heat budget analysis. Results show that HC tendencies during both types of ENSO are mainly controlled by oceanic heat advection beneath the mixed layer to the thermocline, and the role of net surface heat flux can be neglected. The most important three terms are the zonal and vertical advections of anomalous heat by climatological currents (QU ₀ T′, QW ₀ T′) and zonal advection of climatological heat by anomalous current (QU′T ₀). The large contribution of QU ₀ T′ extends from west to east along the equatorial Pacific. The considerable contribution of QU′T ₀ is confined to the east of 160°W, and that of the QW ₀ T′ is observed in the central Pacific between 180°E and 120°W. In particular, a major contribution of QW ₀ T′ is also observed in the far eastern Pacific east of 100°W during EP ENSO. There is also a small contribution from meridional advection of climatological heat by anomalous current (QV′T ₀). In contrast, the meridional advection of anomalous heat by climatological currents (QV ₀ T′) and vertical advection of climatological heat by anomalous current (QW′T ₀) are two damping factors in the HC tendency, with the former dominating. Differences in spatial distribution of the heat advection associated with the two types of ENSO are also presented. We define a warm water heat index (WWH) as integrated heat content above 26 kg m^?3 potential density (26σ _? ) isopycnal depth within 130°E–80°W and 5°S–5°N. Further examination suggests that the recharge–discharge of WWH is involved in both types of El Niño, though with some differences. First, it takes about 42 (55) months for the evolution of a recharge–discharge cycle during an EP (CP) ENSO. Second, the EP El Niño event peaks during the discharge phase, 7–8 months after the recharge time. The CP El Niño peaks during the recharge phase, 4–5 months before the recharge time. The locations of HC anomalies in the El Niño mature phase relative to those at recharged time explain why the EP and CP El Niño peak in different stages of the recharge–discharge process.