Asymptotic Calculation of the Wave Trough Exceedance Probabilities in A Nonlinear Sea

This paper concerns the calculation of the wave trough exceedance probabilities in a nonlinear sea. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic method. This is a new approach for the calculation of the wave trough exceedance probabilities, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The proposed asymptotic method has been applied to calculate the wave trough depth exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the coast of Yura in the Japan Sea. It is demonstrated that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than the theoretical Rayleigh wave trough depth distribution model. The calculated results by using the proposed new method have been further compared with those obtained by using the Arhan and Plaisted nonlinear distribution model and the Toffoli et al.’s wave trough depth distribution model, and its accuracy has been once again substantiated. The research findings obtained from this study demonstrate that the proposed asymptotic method can be readily utilized in the process of designing various kinds of ocean engineering structures.     

A Fully Nonlinear HOBEM with the Domain Decomposition Method for Simulation of Wave Propagation and Diffraction

A higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) for simulating the fully nonlinear regular wave propagation and diffraction around a fixed vertical circular cylinder is investigated. The domain decomposition method with continuity conditions enforced on the interfaces between the adjacent sub-domains is implemented for reducing the computational cost. By adjusting the algorithm of iterative procedure on the interfaces, four types of coupling strategies are established, that is, Dirchlet/Dirchlet-Neumman/Neumman (D/D-N/N), Dirchlet-Neumman (D-N), Neumman-Dirchlet (N-D) and Mixed Dirchlet-Neumman/Neumman-Dirchlet (Mixed D-N/N-D). Numerical simulations indicate that the domain decomposition methods can provide accurate results compared with that of the single domain method. According to the comparisons of computational efficiency, the D/D-N/N coupling strategy is recommended for the wave propagation problem. As for the wave-body interaction problem, the Mixed D-N/N-D coupling strategy can obtain the highest computational efficiency.     

Simulation of Fully Nonlinear 3-D Numerical Wave Tank

A fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) has been simulated by use of a three-dimensional higher order bouodary element method (HOBEM) in the time domain. Within the frame of potential flow and the adoption of simply Rankine source, the resulting boundary integral equation is repeatedly solved at each time step and the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are integrated with time to update its position and boundary values. A smooth technique is also adopted in order to eliminate the possible saw-tooth numerical instabilities. The incident wave at the uptank is given as theoretical wave in this paper. The outgoing waves are absorbed inside a damping zone by spatially varying artificial damping on the free surface at the wave tank end. The numerical results show that the NWT developed by these approaches has a high accuracy and good numerical stability.     

Three-Dimensional Boundary Element Method Applied to Nonlinear Wave Transformation

For higher accuracy in simulating the transformation of three dimensional waves,in consid-eration of the advantages of constant panels and linear elements,a combined boundary elements is appliedin this research.The method can be used to remove the transverse vibration due to the accumulation ofcomputational errors.A combined boundary condition of sponge layer and Sommerfeld radiation condi-tion is used to remove the reflected waves from the computing domain.By following the water particle onthe water surface,the third order Stokes wave transform is simulated by the numerical wave flume tech-nique.The computed results are in good agreement with theoretical ones.     

A Comparative Study of the Statistical Distributions of Wave Heights

Distribution of wave heights and surface elevations of wind-driven waves are studied.Recordsof surface elevations obtained from both field observations and laboratory measurements are analyzed.Wave heights can be approximated by normal,two-parameter Weibull,and/or Rayleigh distribution.However,while the first two models may have almost equal probabilities to fit measured data quite satis-factorily,the Rayleigh distribution does not appear to be a good model for the majority of the cases stu-died.Surface elevations from field data are well described by the Gaussian model,but as with increasingwind speeds,water surface in a wind-wave flume deviates from normality,and the Edgeworth's form ofthe type A Gram-Charlier series is then applied.     

Application of A Fully Nonlinear Higher-Order Element Method for Modelling Three-Dimensional Wave Entry of A Cone

China Ocean Engineering - Fully nonlinear water entry of a cone into waves with gravity effect has been analyzed based on a three-dimensional (3D) higher-order boundary method (HOBEM). The total...     

A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.     

Development of A Fully Nonlinear Numerical Wave Tank

A fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the solution of the σ-transformed Navier-Stokes equation is developed in this study. The numerical wave is generated from the inflow boundary, where the surface elevation and/or velocity are specified by use of the analytical solution or the laboratory data. The Sommerfeld/Orlanski radiation condition in eonjunetion with an artificial damping zone is applied to reduce wave reflection from the outflow boundary. The whole numerical solution procedures are split into three steps, i.e., advection, diffusion and propagation, and a new method, the Lagrange-Euler Method, instead of the MAC or VOF method, is introduced to solve the free surface elevation at the new time step. Several typical wave cases, including solitary waves, regular waves and irregular waves, are simulated in the wave tank. The robustness and accuracy of the NWF are verified by the good agreement between the numerical results and the linear or nonlinear analytical solutions. This research will be further developed by study of wave-wave, wave-current, wave-structure or wave-jet interaction in the future.     

A Study of the Stability Properties in Simulation of Wave Propagation with SPH Method

When ordinary Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method is used to simulate wave propagation in a wave tank, it is usually observed that the wave height decays and the wave length elongates along the direction of wave propagation. Accompanied with this phenomenon, the pressure under water decays either and shows a big oscillation simultaneously. The reason is the natural potential tensile instability of modeling water motion with ordinary SPH which is caused by particle negative stress in the computation. To deal with the problems, a new sextic kernel function is proposed to reduce this instability. An appropriate smooth length is given and its computation criterion is also suggested. At the same time, a new kind dynamic boundary condition is introduced. Based on these improvements, the new SPH method named stability improved SPH (SISPH) can simulate the wave propagation well. Both the water surface and pressure can be well expressed and the oscillation of pressure is nearly eliminated. Compared with other improved methods, SISPH can truly reveal the physical reality without bringing some new problems in a simple way.     

A Numerical Model of Nonlinear Wave Propagation in Curvilinear Coordinates

For the simulation of the nonlinear wave propagation in coastal areas with complex boundaries,a numerical model is developed in curvilinear coordinates. In the model,the Boussinesq-type equations including the dissipation terms are employed as the governing equations. In the present model,the dependent variables of the transformed equations are the free surface elevation and the utility velocity variables,instead of the usual primitive velocity variables. The introduction of utility velocity variables which...     

A Numerical Model for Nonlinear Wave Propagation on Non-uniform Current

On the basis of the new type Boussinesq equations (Madsen et al.,2002),a set of equations explicitly including the effects of currents on waves are derived.A numerical implementation of the present equations in one dimension is described.The numerical model is tested for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth with current present.The present numerical results are compared with those of other researchers.It is validated that the present numerical model can reasonably reflect the nonlinear influences of currents on waves.Moreover,the effects of inputting different incident boundary conditions on the calculated results are studied.     

A Coupling Model of Nonlinear Wave and Sandy Seabed Dynamic Interaction

In the paper,a weak coupling numerical model is developed for the study of the nonlinear dynamic interaction between water waves and permeable sandy seabed.The wave field solver is based on the VOF(Volume of Fluid)method for continuity equation and the two-dimensional Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes(RANS)equations with a k-ε closure.The free surface of cnoidal wave is traced through the PLIC-VOF(Piecewise Linear Interface Construction).Biot's equations have been applied to solve the sandy seabed,and the u-p finite element formulations are derived by the application of the Galerkin weighted-residual procedure.The continuity of the pressure on the interface between fluid and porous medium domains is considered.Laboratory tests were performed to verify the proposed numerical model,and it is shown that the pore-water pressures and the wave heights computed by the VOF-FEM models are in good agreement with the experimental results.It is found that the proposed model is effective in predicting the seabed-nonlinear wave interaction and is able to handle the wave-breakwater-seabed interaction problem.     

基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的源函数数值造波

探讨了应用于完全非线性Boussinesq模型模拟波浪传播变形的数值造波和波浪分析方法。采取在造波区的流体运动方程中引入源函数的造波法以实现无反射造波。通过数值试验探讨了造波函数中系数δ的取值。为模拟不规则波,采用了线性波浪叠加法。利用相关函数法进行谱估计,以检验不规则波造波效果。文中讨论了采用相关函数法估计海浪谱时,参数△t、m、和N之间的关系。     

Numerical Simulation of Tsunami-Like Wave Impacting on Breakwater by CLSVOF/IB Method

China Ocean Engineering - In the current study, the treatment of air/water interface has been made on dam-break induced tsunami-like wave by the Coupled Level Set and Volume of Fluid (CLSVOF)...     

一种波浪爬高的视频测量方法

波浪爬高的测量是海岸环境监测中的一项重要内容,文中介绍一种采用视频方式测量波浪爬高的方法,并给出波浪爬高时间堆栈图像上端边缘曲线的提取步骤,为进一步求解波浪爬高的相关参数打下基础。     

基于Beta波面分布的非线性海浪波高分布

基于非线性Beta波面分布,采用经验变换,导出1种仅用随机波面偏度λ3和尖度λ4 2个参数表示的非线性海浪波高概率统计分布--波高类Beta分布.此分布发展了线性窄谱假定下的Rayleigh分布.就所用实验室资料验证而言,本文推导的波高类Beta分布要优于几种工程上常用的波高分布.     

数值模拟生成畸形波的一种新方法

通过理论分析和数值模拟,结果证明利用Longuet-Hinggins模型可以得到包含畸形波的随机波列,但在组成波的初相位随机分布的条件下,畸形波发生的概率很低且其畸形程度较小。调整组成波的初相位,增加具有相同初相位的组成波个数,可增大畸形波发生的概率,而且所得畸形波的畸形程度也相应增大。将模拟得到的畸形波与实测畸形波进行了比较,发现它们的波形很相似,表明这种模拟方法是可行有效的。     

Numerical Simulation of Wave Scour Around A Large-Scale Circular Cylinder

A numerical model is developed for estimation of local scour around a large circular cylinder under vvave action. The model includes wave diffraction around structures, bed shear stress calculation inside the vvave boundary layer and topo-graphical change model. The vvave model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth. The vvave boundary layer is calculaled by solving the integrated momentum equation over the boundary layer. The bed shear stress due to streaming, an important factor affecting the sediment transport around a large-scale cylinder, is calculated. The Lagrangian drift velocity is included in calculation of the suspended sediment transport rates. The model is implemented by a finite element method and the results from the present model, which agree well with experimental data, are com-pared vvith those from other methods.     

A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.