Spectral wave characteristics off Gangavaram,Bay of Bengal

Spectral wave characteristics were studied based on waves measured for 1 year during 2010 off Gangavaram, Bay of Bengal. Maximum wave height of 5.2 m was observed on 19 May 2010 due to the influence of cyclonic storm LAILA. The wave spectrum was single-peaked during 57 % of the time and the double-peaked spectrum observed was mainly swell-dominated. Low-frequency waves (0.05–0.15 Hz) were predominantly from 150° to 180°, whereas high-frequency waves (>0.15 Hz) during November–January were mainly from 90° to 120°, and during July and August from 180° to 210°. Annual average significant wave height was similar to the value (1 m) observed in the eastern Arabian Sea.     

Possibilities of X-band nautical radars for monitoring of wind waves near the coast

We present the results of development and testing of a coastal X-band radar system for monitoring wind waves and currents at the Black Sea (near Gelendzhik) created on the basis of nautical radars. Radar measurements of wave heights were validated by data from a wave buoy and a moored acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The conditions for successful radar measurements of waves in the coastal environment have been determined. It was shown that a radar with an aperture 1° could successfully measure wave heights at a distance of 1.2 km from the radar, when waves arrive at an angle of ±31° to the main sensing direction. In this case, for wave height measurements, the correlation coefficient between the radar and independent data is 0.82 and the standard deviation is 0.26 m.     

南海文昌地区内波振幅反演研究

The field experiment is conducted from April 16,2005 to July 20,2005 at Wenchang area east of Hainan Island(19°35'N,112°E) of China.Internal wave packets are observed frequently with thermistor chains during the experiment.Meanwhile,internal waves are also detected from a synthetic aperture radar(SAR) image on June 19,2005 and several other moderate-resolution imaging spectroradiometer(MODIS) images near a mooring position.The distance between the positive and negative peaks induced by the internal wave can be obtained from satellite images.Combined with remote sensing images and in situ data,a new method to inverse the amplitude of the internal wave is proposed based on a corrected nonlinear Schr?dinger(NLS) equation.Two relationships are given between the peak-to-peak distance and the characteristic wavelength of the internal wave for different nonlinear and dispersion coefficients.Based on the satellite images,the amplitude inversion of the internal waves are carried out with the NLS equation as well as the Kd V equation.The calculated amplitudes of the NLS equation are close to the observation amplitude which promise the NLS equation a reliable method.     

Numerical study of sea waves created by tropical cyclone Jelawat

A numerical study of sea waves generated by tropical cyclone Jelawat is carried out using the cycle 4 version of the WAM.The model domain currently covers the latitudes 20-45 N and longitudes 115-135 E,and the model spatial resolution reaches 0.25 ×0.25.Comparison of the model results with buoy observations reveals that the model can fairly reproduce the temporal variation of observed waves.Two-dimensional comparison is also made against the satellite altimeter significant wave heights derived from TOPEX/PO...     

Simulation of the quasi-biennial oscillations of the zonal wind in the equatorial stratosphere: Part II. Atmospheric general circulation models

The problem of simulating quasi-biennial oscillations (QBOs) of zonal velocity in the equatorial stratosphere in atmospheric general circulation models is considered. In accordance with the results from Part I of this study on the basis of the models developed at the Institute of Numerical Mathematics of the Russian Academy of Sciences (INM RAS), the possibility of implementing (in these models) mechanisms of QBO excitation through both the interaction of planetary waves with the mean flow and breaking of short gravity waves is investigated. A new high-resolution 2° × 2.5° × 80 version of the INM RAS model is designed, a climate simulation with the two 2° × 2.5° × 39 and 2° × 2.5° × 80 versions of the INM RAS model is briefly described, results of spectral analysis of equatorial wave activity are presented, and the QBO formation processes in these models are considered in detail. For the new 2° × 2.5° × 80 model, realistic QBOs of zonal wind are obtained as the result of the action of both mechanisms.     

A description of short period temperature fluctuations in the upper ocean

Dynamical properties of short-period temperature fluctuations are studied. Water temperature was measured continuously at several depths at the following stations: at 38°29.5′N, 141°35.8′E (100 m depth) on the continental shelf off Miyagi Prefecture in the summer of 1967, at 35°01.8′N, 139°0.8.5′E (100 m depth) in Sagami Bay in the summer of 1968, and at 32°32.2′N, 129°53.7′E (74 m depth) in Tachibana Bay in the summer of 1970. These measurements were made with a thermistor array laid down from the R. V.Tanseimaru (Ocean Research Institute, University of Tokyo) which was fixed with bow and stern anchors. Significant temperature fluctuations found at the first and the third stations are thought to be due to first mode internal waves having amplitude 3 to 5 m and period 5 to 20 minutes. The wave length of the waves is estimated to be 25 m to 400 m from the observed density structure. At the second station, we found second-mode internal waves. The period, amplitude and wave length of the waves are about 30 minutes, 1.3 m and 600 m, respectively. In all cases, the spectral density of the temperature fluctuations decreases with increase in frequency. However, the decrease obey neither the ?3 power law nor the ?5/3 power law. Coherences in the temperature fluctuations between two depths of measurement in the seasonal thermocline are significantly high in the range of frequencies lower than the local Brunt-Väisälä frequency, but are low in the higher frequency range. At the first and the third stations, the difference in the level of coherences between the lower frequencies and the higher frequencies are large. Phase differences between two depths in the thermocline are small in the lower frequency range. This suggests that the first-mode internal waves are predominant over higher-mode internal waves and over other disturbances.     

Satellite-based RAR performance simulation for measuring directional ocean wave spectrum based on SAR inversion spectrum

Some missions have been carried out to measure wave directional spectrum by synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and airborne real aperture radar (RAR) at a low incidence. Both them have their own advantages and limitations. Scientists hope that SAR and satellite-based RAR can complement each other for the research on wave properties in the future. For this study, the authors aim to simulate the satellite-based RAR system to validate performance for measuring the directional wave spectrum. The principal measurements are introduced and the simulation methods based on the one developed by Hauser are adopted and slightly modified. To enhance the authenticity of input spectrum and the wave spectrum measuring consistency for SAR and satellite-based RAR, the wave height spectrum inversed from Envisat ASAR data by cross spectrum technology is used as the input spectrum of the simulation system. In the process of simulation, the sea surface, backscattering signal, modulation spectrum and the estimated wave height spectrum are simulated in each look direction. Directional wave spectrum are measured based on the simulated observations from 0° to 360°. From the estimated wave spectrum, it has an 180° ambiguity like SAR, but it has no special high wave number cut off in all the direction. Finally, the estimated spectrum is compared with the input one in terms of the dominant wave wavelength, direction and SWH and the results are promising. The simulation shows that satellite-based RAR should be capable of measuring the directional wave properties. Moreover, it indicates satellite-based RAR basically can measure waves that SAR can measure.     

斜向波浪作用下双层水平板式防波堤波浪荷载试验研究

In this study, systematic physical model tests were performed to investigate the wave forces on the twin-plate breakwater under irregular waves. Based on the experimental results, the effects of the relative plate width B/L,wave height Hs/D and incident angle θ0 on the wave forces were analyzed and discussed. The results showed that:(1) The envelopes of the total wave pressure were generally symmetrical along the direction of plate width under the incident angles(θ0) being 0°, 15°, 30°, 45° and 60°. In particular, the envelopes of wave pressure atθ0=30° were larger than all other cases.(2) The synchronous pressure distribution of the breakwater under oblique wave action was more complicated comparing to the normal incident waves.(3) Based on data analysis, an empirical formula was obtained to estimate the total vertical force of the twin-plate breakwater.This empirical formula can be a good reference for the design basis of engineering applications under specified wave conditions.     

Oblique wave attack on rubble mound breakwaters

Stability formulae for armour layers of rubble mound breakwaters are usually being applied assuming perpendicular wave attack. Often the effects of oblique waves are neglected. This is however a conservative assumption since the stability of armour slopes generally increases for oblique waves. New wave basin tests have been performed to assess the effects of oblique waves on the stability of rock slopes and the stability of cube armoured rubble mound breakwaters. The physical model tests were focussed on wave directions between perpendicular (0°) and parallel (90°). The test programme included tests with long-crested waves and tests with short-crested waves. The results show that for rock slopes the influence of oblique waves is larger for long-crested waves. Based on the test results a design guideline is provided to account for effects of oblique waves on the stability of rock slopes, armour layers with a double layer of cubes, and armour layers with a single layer of cubes.     

Influence of Coupled Rossby Waves on Primary Productivity and Tuna Abundance in the Indian Ocean

Interannual coupled Rossby waves in the extratropical Indian Ocean propagate westward in covarying pycnocline depth, sea surface temperature, and meridional surface wind anomalies from the west coast of Australia between 15°S and 35°S, taking 3–4 years to transit the interior ocean to Madagascar. In the interior subtropical gyre, where the tuna longline catch (TLC) mainly concerns two species (albacore and bigeye), these waves have been observed to affect year-to-year changes in catch, with wave crests (troughs) in the main pycnocline associated with high (low) TLC anomalies. This suggested that tuna longline catch is associated with the entrainment of nutrient-rich pycnocline water into the photic zone and a subsequent increase in primary productivity there. Here, this hypothesis is examined within the context of SeaWiFS chlorophyll concentration (CC). We find the situation the opposite of that expected, with wave crests (troughs) in the main pycnocline associated with low (high) CC anomalies averaged over the photic zone. These results are shown to be consistent with a model relating the anomalous CC tendency to upper-layer divergence in the wave, not unlike that relating surface slicks to upper-layer divergence in internal gravity waves. Thus, the connection between interannual coupled Rossby waves and TLC in the interior subtropical gyre does not appear to derive from wave-induced modulation of the pelagic food web. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Experimental Study of Wave Attenuation in Trapezoidal Floating Breakwaters

A comprehensive experimental study was carried out on the regular wave attenuation with a trapezoidal pontoontype floating breakwater(FB) in deep water. The functionalities of two simple FB geometries consist of a rectangle and a trapezoid with the slope of 60° were investigated under the wave attack. A two-dimensional wave flume was used in the experiment; the incident, transmitted waves, mooring line forces and motion responses of the floating breakwaters were measured. Also the influence of the sea state conditions(incident wave height and wave period)and structural parameters(draught of the structure) were investigated using the trapezoidal FB. Our experimental results indicated that the trapezoidal FB significantly reduced the wave transmission and mooring line force when compared with rectangular FBs. A new formula was developed in order to predict the value of the transmission coefficient in trapezoidal FBs with the slope of 60°. Experimental data showed to be consistent with the results of the formula.     

多源卫星高度计海浪资料在中国近海的验证及应用

Studies of offshore wave climate based on satellite altimeter significant wave height(SWH) have widespread application value. This study used a calibrated multi-altimeter SWH dataset to investigate the wave climate characteristics in the offshore areas of China. First, the SWH measurements from 28 buoys located in China's coastal seas were compared with an Ifremer calibrated altimeter SWH dataset. Although the altimeter dataset tended to slightly overestimate SWH, it was in good agreement with the in situ data in general. The correlation coefficient was 0.97 and the root-mean-square(RMS) of differences was 0.30 m. The validation results showed a slight difference in different areas. The correlation coefficient was the maximum(0.97) and the RMS difference was the minimum(0.28 m) in the area from the East China Sea to the north of the South China Sea.The correlation coefficient of approximately 0.95 was relatively low in the seas off the Changjiang(Yangtze River) Estuary. The RMS difference was the maximum(0.32 m) in the seas off the Changjiang Estuary and was0.30 m in the Bohai Sea and the Yellow Sea. Based on the above evidence, it is confirmed that the multialtimeter wave data are reliable in China's offshore areas. Then, the characteristics of the wave field, including the frequency of huge waves and the multi-year return SWH in China's offshore seas were analyzed using the23-year altimeter wave dataset. The 23-year mean SWH generally ranged from 0.6–2.2 m. The greatest SWH appeared in the southeast of the China East Sea, the Taiwan Strait and the northeast of the South China Sea.Obvious seasonal variation of SWH was found in most areas; SWH was greater in winter and autumn than in summer and spring. Extreme waves greater than 4 m in height mainly occurred in the following areas: the southeast of the East China Sea, the south of the Ryukyu Islands, the east of Taiwan-Luzon Island, and the Dongsha Islands extending to the Zhongsha Islands, and the frequency of extreme waves was 3%–6%. Extreme waves occurred most frequently in autumn and rarely in spring. The 100-year return wave height was greatest from the northwest Pacific seas extending to southeast of the Ryukyu Islands(9–12 m), and the northeast of the South China Sea and the East China Sea had the second largest wave heights(7–11 m). For inshore areas, the100-year return wave height was the greatest in the waters off the east coast of Guangdong Province and the south coast of Zhejiang Province(7–8 m), whereas it was at a minimum in the area from the Changjiang Estuary to the Bohai Sea(4–6 m). An investigation of sampling effects indicates that when using the 1°×1°grid dataset, although the combination of nine altimeters obviously enhanced the time and space coverage of sampling, the accuracy of statistical results, particularly extreme values obtained from the dataset, still suffered from undersampling problems because the time sampling percent in each 1°×1°grid cell was always less than33%.     

Wave climate variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean over the last six decades

Ocean surface gravity waves play a major role in many engineering and environmental problems, both in the open ocean and in coastal zones. Therefore, it is essential to improve our knowledge on spatial and temporal variability of wave climate. This study aims at investigating this variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean (25°W–0°W and 30°N–60° N), using a 57-year hindcast (1953–2009) obtained with a spectral wave model forced with reanalysis wind fields. The hindcast analysis reveals firstly strong seasonal fluctuations of wave climate, with winters characterized by large and long-period waves of mean direction spreading from south-west to north-west, and summers characterized by smaller and shorter-period waves originating from norther directions. From northern (55°N) to southern (35°N) latitudes, the significant wave height (Hs) decreases by roughly 40%, the mean wave direction (Mwd) rotates clockwise by about 25% while the peak period (Tp) only grows by 5%. These three parameters also exhibit a strong inter-annual variability, particularly when winter-means (from 1st of December to 1st of April) are considered. Linear trend analysis over the studied period shows spatially variable long-term trends, with a significant increase of Hs (up to 0.02 m yr^?1) and a counterclockwise shift of Mwd (up to ?0.1° yr^?1) at northern latitude, contrasting with a fairly constant trend for Hs and a clockwise shift of Mwd (up to +0.15° yr^?1) at southern latitudes. Long-term trends of Tp are less significant, with still a slight increase in the north-eastern part of the study area (up to +0.01 s yr^?1). Eventually, a comparison between the inter-annual variability of the winter-means of the three selected wave parameters and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) reveals: (1) a strong positive correlation between Hs and the NAO index at northern latitudes (correlation coefficient up to R = 0.91) and a significant negative correlation at southern latitudes (up to R = ?0.6); (2) no significant correlation for Mwd north of 40°N and a clear positive correlation southward of 40°N (up to R = 0.8) and (3) a northward increasing correlation for Tp (up to R = 0.8). Long-term trends for Hs, Mwd and Tp are finally explained by a significant increase in the NAO index over the studied period.     

南海灾害性波浪基本特征研究

本文基于1991-2016年全球卫星高度计融合数据对南海灾害性波浪基本特征进行了分析,根据灾害性波浪诱发天气类型不同,将其分为"台风浪"和"非台风浪"。依此主线,对两类波浪在南海不同海域的特征进行了研究,并提出了用于定量研究两类波浪强度关系的台风浪权重系数（W）,得到了两类波浪在南海相对强弱关系的分布规律,量化研究了南海灾害性波浪的特征。本文以卫星高度计波高数据为样本进行了极值分析,得到了南海重现期波浪要素整体分布规律,研究发现W值大小与广义极值曲线类型显著相关。     

Water waves induced by a fluctuating tangential stress

In the framework of linear wave theory both the effects of tangential and normal stresses on the water waves are discussed without the assumption of irrotational water motion. A formal solution initially at rest with level surface and developed under the actions of the surface stresses depending arbitrarily on time and sinusoidally on space is obtained.A progressive wave type tangential stress whose wave number and frequency are satisfying the dispersion relation of the water waves is shown to be equivalent to the normal stress of the same type on the growth of the waves except the phase relations between the stresses and the water motion. The growth rate of the waves induced by the tangential stress is also shown to be quite insensitive to the actual value of the viscosity.The rotational part of the water motion can dominate only in the early stage of wave generation and becomes negligible with the growth of the waves relative to the irrotational part of the motion even in the case where the motion is induced by the tangential stress alone. Therefore it is not reasonable to neglect effect of the tangential stress on wind waves even if the developed wind waves seem to be irrotational.     

浪致混合对2016年北太平洋海表温度季节性预测的影响

上层海洋通过海气交换影响大气-海洋耦合系统,海浪引起的垂向混合影响上层海洋结构,从而在气候预测过程中发挥着重要的作用。本文基于国家海洋局第一海洋研究所地球系统模式（FIO-ESM）,以2016年为例,分别开展了耦合和关闭海浪模式情况下的短期气候预测实验,分析浪致混合对北太平洋海表温度（SST）季节性预测的影响。通过对模式预测的SST异常（SSTA）进行定量评估发现,浪致混合能够显著降低北太平洋高纬度海区预测误差,在（45°N,150°E）附近海区SSTA改善可达1℃,气候模式能够更好地预测SSTA的经向分布特征,特别是能够准确地反映25°~45°N海区SSTA分布特征。通过分析有浪和无浪两个实验的热收支贡献发现,垂向混合是导致上层海洋温度差异的主导影响因子。海浪通过改变垂向混合,使2016年北太平洋SST在高纬度海区大幅降低,在低纬度海区略有升高,最终提升了模式对北太平洋SST的季节性预测能力。     

Propagation of Rossby Waves over Ridges Excited by Interannual Wind Forcing in a Western North Pacific Model

Numerical experiments with a multi-level general circulation model have been performed to investigate basic processes of westward propagation of Rossby waves excited by interannual wind stress forcing in an idealized western North Pacific model with ocean ridges. When the wind forcing with an oscillation period of 3 years is imposed around 180°E and 30°N, far from Japan, barotropic waves excited by the wind can hardly cross the ridges, such as the Izu-Ogasawara Ridge. On the other hand, a large part of the first-mode baroclinic waves are transmitted across the ridges, having net mass transport. The propagation speed of the first-mode baroclinic wave is accelerated (decelerated) when an anticyclonic (cyclonic) circulation is formed at the sea surface, due to a deeper (shallower) upper layer, and to southward (slightly northward) drift of the circulation. Thus, when the anticyclonic circulation is formed on the northern side of the cyclonic one, they propagate almost together. The second-mode baroclinic waves converted from the first-mode ones on the ridges arrive south of Japan, although their effects are small. The resulting volume transport variation of the western boundary current (the Kuroshio) reaches about 60% of the Sverdrup transport variability estimated from the wind stress. These characteristics are common for the interannual forcing case with a longer oscillation period. In the intraseasonal and seasonal forcing cases, on the other hand, the transport variation is much smaller than those in the interannual forcing cases. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

海浪双峰方向分布的一种物理解释

用 １８个波高计组成的直径为 ４０ｃｍ的圆形阵列在大型风浪槽内系统地测量了风浪和涌浪方向谱。用两种分辨力较高的方向谱估计方法最大似然法（ＭＬＭ）和贝叶斯方法（ＢＤＭ）分析的结果表明：风浪高频域出现的依赖于估计方法的双峰方向分布是一种物理假象;在较成长的涌浪低频域,得到跟传播方向对称、两峰间隔大约６０°－９０°非常规则的双峰方向分布,它跟频率和涌浪的成长状态有关,而跟估计方法无关,这种现象可以用非线性波－波相互作用过弱,在不同方向之间不能有效传递能量来解释。     

A coupled-mode technique for the transformation of ship-generated waves over variable bathymetry regions

In the present work, a coupled-mode technique is applied to the transformation of ship's waves over variable bathymetry regions, characterised by parallel depth-contours, without any mild-slope assumption. This method can be used, in conjunction with ship's near-field wave data in deep water or in constant-depth, as obtained by the application of modern (linearised or non-linear) ship computational fluid dynamic (CFD) codes, or experimental measurements, to support the study of wave wash generated by fast ships and its effects on the nearshore/coastal environment.

Under the assumption that the ship's track is straight and parallel to the depth-contours, and relatively far from the bottom irregularity, the problem of propagation–refraction–diffraction of ship-generated waves in a coastal environment is efficiently treated in the frequency domain, by applying the consistent coupled-mode model developed by Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [J. Fluid Mech. 1999;389] to the calculation of the transfer function enabling the pointwise transformation of ship-wave spectra over the variable bathymetry region.

Numerical results are presented for simplified ship-wave systems, obtained by the superposition of source–sink Havelock singularities simulating the basic features of the ship's wave pattern. The spatial evolution of the ship-wave system is examined over a smooth but steep shoal, resembling coastal environments, both in the subcritical and in the supercritical case. Since any ship free-wave system, either in deep water or in finite depth, can be adequately modelled by wavecut analysis and suitable distribution of Havelock singularities e.g. as presented by Scrags [21st Int. Conf. Offshore Mech. Arctic Eng., OMAE2002, Oslo, Norway, June 2002], the present method, in conjunction with ship CFD codes, supports the prediction of ship wash and its impact on coastal areas, including the effects of steep sloping-bed parts.     

Predictability of wave-induced net sediment transport using the conventional 1DV RANS diffusion model

Based on a large database of laboratory experiments, the predictability of the conventional one-dimensional vertical Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) diffusion model is systematically investigated with respect to wave-induced net sediment transport. The predicted net sediment transport rates are compared with the measured data of 176 physical experiments in wave flumes and oscillating water tunnels, covering a wide range of wave conditions (surface, skewed, and asymmetric waves with and without currents), sediment conditions (fine, medium, and coarse sands with median grain diameters ranging from 0.13 to 0.97 mm) and bed forms (flat beds and rippled beds), corresponding to various sediment dynamic regions in the near-shore area. Comparisons show that the majority (73 %) of predictions on a flat bed are within a factor 2 of the measurements. The model behaves much better for medium/coarse sand than for fine sand. The model generally underpredicts the transport rates beneath asymmetric waves and overpredicts the fine sand transport beneath skewed waves. Nevertheless, the model behaves well in reproducing the transport rates under surface waves. A detailed discussion and a quantitative measure of the overall model performance are made. The poor model predictability for fine sand cases is mainly due to the underestimation of unsteady phase-lag effect. It is revealed that the model predictability can be significantly improved by implementing alternative bedload formulas and incorporating more physical processes (mobile-bed roughness, hindered settling, and turbulence damping).