A model for simulating the response of runoff from the mountainous watersheds of inland river basins in the arid area of northwest China to climatic changes

The subaerial tidal sand area in the northern Jiangsu Province (Subei), stretching from Dongtai towards east with a fan shape, is an early developing stage of radial sand ridges distributed in the South Yellow Sea. Since 5000–6000 a BP, after the Holocene transgression maximum in the northern Jiangsu Province, subaqueous tidal sand bodies were exposed and changed into land gradually. The environmental magnetism analysis shows that subaerial tidal sand strata are formed by the convergent-divergent paleo-tidal current field. The sediment source of tidal sand strata came early from the Changjiang River and late from the Yellow River. Sea floor erosion by tidal currents also served as an important sand source. Drilling cores and ground-penetrating profile show that there exists no probability of sand supplying directly by a large river through the apical area of tidal sand ridges either on land or in the sea. Fluvial deposits supplied the tidal sand bodies by alongshore transportation, which corresponds to the conclusions obtained by the analyses of provenance and paleocurrent field. Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 43236120 and 49676288).     

Anatomy of a shoreface sand ridge revisited using foraminifera: False Cape Shoals, Virginia/North Carolina inner shelf

Certain details regarding the origin and evolution of shelf sand ridges remain elusive. Knowledge of their internal stratigraphy and microfossil distribution is necessary to define the origin and to determine the processes that modify sand ridges. Fourteen vibracores from False Cape Shoal A, a well-developed shoreface-attached sand ridge on the Virginia/North Carolina inner continental shelf, were examined to document the internal stratigraphy and benthic foraminiferal assemblages, as well as to reconstruct the depositional environments recorded in down-core sediments. Seven sedimentary and foraminiferal facies correspond to the following stratigraphic units: fossiliferous silt, barren sand, clay to sandy clay, laminated and bioturbated sand, poorly sorted massive sand, fine clean sand, and poorly sorted clay to gravel. The units represent a Pleistocene estuary and shoreface, a Holocene estuary, ebb tidal delta, modern shelf, modern shoreface, and swale fill, respectively. The succession of depositional environments reflects a Pleistocene sea-level highstand and subsequent regression followed by the Holocene transgression in which barrier island/spit systems formed along the Virginia/North Carolina inner shelf 5.2 ka and migrated landward and an ebb tidal delta that was deposited, reworked, and covered by shelf sand.     

川西则木河断裂带强震复发周期的初步研究

本文从地震活动性和断层活动性两方面初步研究了川西则木河断裂带上地震的复发周期。通过古地震地貌现象的研究,发现则木河断裂北段西昌一带自晚更新世以来多次发生强震,其中全新世时期至少有4次。并得出晚更新世时期,强震在原地重复的周期为2000年,全新世时期为1800年,则木河断裂带滑动速率的研究表明,晚更新世时期断层滑动速率为4.5mm/a,全新世时期为4.9mm/a,以此估计则木河断裂带上晚更新世时期,强震重复的平均周期为965—1380年,全新世时期为885—1275年。     

Shedding light on the timing of the largest Late Quaternary transgression of the Caspian Sea

The Late Quaternary history of the Caspian Sea remains controversial. One of the major disagreements in this debate concerns the stratigraphic correlation of various deposits in the Caspian Basin. In this paper we identify and date, for the first time, the Enotaevka regression, lying between the two major phases of the largest Late Quaternary Caspian Sea transgression, the Khvalynian transgressive epoch, and provide a minimum estimate of sea level decrease during this regression. The River Volga is the major source of water to the Caspian; the Lower Volga region is unique in its record of palaeogeographic events, and this provides the opportunity to build a single stratigraphic and palaeogeographic history for the Pleistocene of Central Eurasia. Here we use luminescence to establish a new chronology for the largest Late Quaternary transgressive epoch of the Caspian Sea. The existing radiocarbon chronology does not allow the resolution of the two transgressive phases of this epoch (Early and Late Khvalynian). Based on clear palaeontological and geomorphological evidence, these must be very different in age, but shells associated with both transgressions gave very scattered ages of between 8 and 50 ka. This ambiguity has led to considerable discussion concerning the existence or otherwise of a deep Enotaevka regression phase between the two Khvalynian transgressions. Recently we have again identified these deposits at Kosika, on the right valley side of the Volga River. The new luminescence chronology described here, based on quartz OSL and K-feldspar pIRIR₂₉₀ ages, allows us to reconstruct the complicated history of Late Quaternary sedimentation in the southern part of the Lower Volga valley. The Kosika section reflects the following major stages: (1) the earlier Khazarian transgressive epoch; (2) a decrease in the sea level with the development of a freshwater lake/lagoon in the Volga valley; and (3) the Khvalynian transgressive-regressive epoch, including both the Early and Late Khvalynian transgressive periods, and the intercalated Enotaevka regression. Sea level during the early stage of the Khvalynian transgression reached Kosika at about 23–22 ka (approx. −1 to −2 m asl). This event is of the same age as the “grey clay” strata at the base of the Leninsk section marine unit (Kurbanov et al., 2021), also formed at the beginning of the Early Khvalynian transgression. Around 15–14 ka the Khvalynian basin moved to a regressive stage, and in the northern part of the Lower Volga the top part of the well-known ‘Chocolate Clay’ accumulated. In the southern part of the valley marine accumulation stopped at about 12–13 ka. This allows us to reconstruct a decrease in Early Khvalynian basin sea level between 15–14 ka and 13–12 ka ago, of about ∼15 m. At the Kosika section sediments derived from the Enotayevka regression are visible as a weakly developed palaeosol with evidence of surficial erosion, and these sediments are now dated to 13–12 ka. At 8.6 ± 0.5 ka, during the period of the Mangyshlak regression, aeolian deflation processes reworked sediments deposited by immediately preceding Late Khvalynian transgression.     

长江三角洲顶部冰后期地层的沉积特征

钻探证实,镇江市谏壁镇长江北岸高桥镇北部埋藏硬粘土层,之上为冰后期松散沉积物。沉积物主要为粉砂、粘土质粉砂、砂泥互层,中部局部夹含细砾中细砂,顶部见淤泥质粘土;夹数十层植物炭屑层;以水平纹理为主,局部见小型交错层理、波状层理。表明冰后期以来该地处于水动力较弱的河湖环境,为多期湖沼相沉积夹汉道河流相沉积,局部有海相沉积物加入。根据碳化植物碎屑^14C年龄,推测冰后期底界年龄约13000aBP,海侵到达该地的时间约为9000aBP,海侵最高位时间约为6500aBP。冰后期平均沉积速率约为4．9m／ka,湖沼相3．4～6m／ka,河流相10～15m／ka。对全新统的底界年龄和海相层的埋藏深度进行了讨论。     

Rapid shoreline progradation followed by vertical foredune building at Pedro Beach,southeastern Australia

At Pedro Beach on the southeastern coast of Australia a series of foredune ridges provides an opportunity to explore the morphodynamic paradigm as it applies to coastal barrier systems using optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating, ground penetrating radar (GPR) and airborne LiDAR topography. A series of sandy dune-capped ridges, increasing in height seawards, formed from c. 7000 years ago to c. 3900 years ago. During this time the shoreline straightened as the embayment filled and accommodation space for Holocene sediments diminished. Calculation of Holocene sediment accumulation above mean sea level utilising airborne LiDAR topography shows a decline in average sediment supply over this time period coupled with a decrease in shoreline progradation rate from 1.2 m/yr to 0.38 m/yr. The average ridge ‘exposure lifetime’ during this period increases resulting in higher ridges as dune-forming processes have longer to operate. Increasing exposure to wave and wind energy also appears to have resulted in higher ridges as the sheltering effect of marginal headlands was diminished. An inherited disequilibrium shoreface profile will drive onshore accumulation of sandy sediments forming a prograded barrier; however, if there is no longer ‘accommodation space’ for sediment, this will be an overriding factor causing the cessation of progradation, as occurred c. 3900 years ago at Pedro Beach. Excess sediment in the nearshore zone after 3900 years ago may have been moved northward to nourish downdrift beaches in the compartment. A high outer foredune has formed through vertical accretion after 500 years ago, evidenced by GPR subsurface structures and OSL ages, with a distinct period of vertical and lee slope accretion and dated to the period 1890–1930 AD. The increased dune sediment transport resulting in foredune building is attributed to recent human disturbance. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Storm response of a mixed sand gravel beach ridge plain under falling relative sea levels: A stratigraphic investigation using ground penetrating radar

Beach ridge stratigraphy can provide an important record of both sustained coastal progradation and responses to events such as extreme storms, as well as evidence of earthquake induced sediment pulses. This study is a stratigraphic investigation of the late Holocene mixed sand gravel (MSG) beach ridge plain on the Canterbury coast, New Zealand. The subsurface was imaged along a 370 m shore-normal transect using 100 and 200 MHz ground penetrating radar (GPR) antennae, and cored to sample sediment textures. Results show that, seaward of a back-barrier lagoon, the Pegasus Bay beach ridge plain prograded almost uniformly, under conditions of relatively stable sea level. Nearshore sediment supply appears to have created a sustained sediment surplus, perhaps as a result of post-seismic sediment pulses, resulting in a flat, morphologically featureless beach ridge plain. Evidence of a high magnitude storm provides an exception, with an estimated event return period in excess of 100 years. Evidence from the GPR sequence combined with modern process observations from MSG beaches indicates that a palaeo-storm initially created a washover fan into the back-barrier lagoon, with a large amount of sediment simultaneously moved off the beach face into the nearshore. This erosion event resulted in a topographic depression still evident today. In the subsequent recovery period, sediment was reworked by swash onto the beach as a sequence of berm deposit laminations, creating an elevated beach ridge that also has a modern-day topographic signature. As sediment supply returned to normal, and under conditions of falling sea level, a beach ridge progradation sequence accumulated seaward of the storm feature out to the modern-day beach as a large flat, uniform progradation plain. This study highlights the importance of extreme storm events and earthquake pulses on MSG coastlines in triggering high volume beach ridge formation during the subsequent recovery period. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Continental shelf sediments of northern Portugal

Recent research provides the first significant information about sedimentation on the continental shelf of northern Portugal. This paper presents data and interpretations obtained from textural and compositional studies of surface sediment. The shelf primarily contains sand-sized particles of lithogenic quartz (<80m water depth) and biogenic carbonate (80m). A nearshore deposit (<30m) is actively forming from fine sand composed of immature quartz particles (subangular, hyaline) which are transported southward by prevailing waves and currents from fluvial sources in the northern part of the study area. Near the northern rivers (e.g., Minho, Lima, Porto rivers), mica also is found nearshore in high concentrations (20 %). The mid-shelf region (30 to 80 m) is dominated by coarse sand and gravel composed of mature quartz particles (rounded, frosted, iron-stained), which probably were excavated during the Holocene transgression from terrestrial deposits and redistributed by littoral processes. During low stands of sea level, lithogenic sediment was carried off the shelf through submarine canyons, resulting in reduced contribution of lithogenic particles to the outer shelf region. This has caused biogenic carbonate to dominate the sediment there. Grain size decreases across the outer shelf from medium to very fine sand, as the predominant carbonate material changes from mollusk fragments to foraminifera tests. Glauconite has formed in many of the foraminifera tests, and glauconite concentrations are high (20%) in some localities near the shelf break.     

鄂尔多斯高原河曲段黄河阶地构造变形研究

通过对河曲县城一带出露较好的黄河阶地剖面进行研究,认为河曲一带黄河三、四级阶地形成于中更新世时期,晚更新世早期形成二级阶地,全新世形成一级阶地。本区中更新世抬升速率为0．14mm／a,晚更新世抬升速率为0．18mm／a,全新世抬升速率为0．70mm／a,晚更新世和全新世抬升速率的突然加大,可能与黄河下游三门湖的贯通、区域侵蚀基准面突然降低、河流侵蚀加大有关。     

Magnetic properties of sediments from the Pearl River Delta,South China: Paleoenvironmental implications

Magnetic parameters and their environmental implications of sediments in a core (PD) from the Pearl River Delta, South China, indicate that ferrimagnetic minerals with low coercivity, such as magnetite, dominate the magnetic properties although small amounts of Fe-sulphides occur. The fraction of Fe-sulphides increases and becomes the dominant minerals determining the magnetic characteristics in grey-black organic-rich clay horizons, indicating an anoxic, sulphate-reducing swamp environment resulting from a marine regression. In the "Huaban clay" , hard magnetic minerals, such as hematite and goethite, largely control the magnetic properties of the sediments and imply a long period of exposure and weathering. Where magnetite is the main magnetic mineral, its fraction and grain size determine properties such as magnetic susceptibility (κ ) and saturation isothermal remanent magnetization (SIRM). Ratios of SIRM/κ and χarm/SIRM reflect changes in sea level with high SIRM/κ and χarm/SIRM correlating with a smaller magnetic mineral grain size and rising sea level. Based on downcore variations of these environmental magnetic parameters along with sediment characteristics and microfauna, the sedimentary environment of the Pearl River Delta area can be divided into two main cycles of transgression and regression during the late Pleistocene and Holocene with more sub-cycles of sea level fluctuation during each transgression.     

Topographic variation in soil erosion and accumulation determined with meteoric 10Be

Understanding natural soil redistribution processes is essential for measuring the anthropogenic impact on landscapes. Although meteoric beryllium-10 (¹⁰Be) has been used to determine erosion processes within the Pleistocene and Holocene, fewer studies have used the isotope to investigate the transport and accumulation of the resulting sediment. Here we use meteoric ¹⁰Be in hilltop and valley site soil profiles to determine sediment erosion and deposition processes in the Christina River Basin (Pennsylvania, USA). The data indicate natural erosion rates of 14 to 21 mm 10⁻³ yr and soil ages of 26 000 to 57 000 years in hilltop sites. Furthermore, valley sites indicate an alteration in sediment supply due to climate change (from the Pleistocene to the Holocene) within the last 60 000 years and sediment deposition of at least 0.5–2 m during the Wisconsinan glaciation. The change in soil erosion rate was most likely induced by changes in geomorphic processes; probably solifluction and slope wash during the cold period, when ice advanced into the mid latitudes of North America. This study shows the value of using meteoric ¹⁰Be to determine sediment accumulation within the Quaternary and quantifies major soil redistribution occurred under natural conditions in this region. © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Aeolization on the Atlantic coast of Galicia (NW Spain) from the end of the last glacial period to the present day: Chronology,origin and evolution of coastal dunes linked to sea-level oscillations

The Atlantic coast of Galicia (NW Spain) is a high-energy environment where shingle beaches are currently developing. These coarser sediments alternate with sandy deposits which are also considered as beaches typical of a low-energy environment. The physical association of both types of sediment with contrasted sedimentary significance raises problems of interpretation. The study of four outcrops of fossil aeolianites on this coast has allowed us to reconstruct their evolution from the end of the Upper Pleistocene to the present day. Their chronology, estimated by optically stimulated luminescence between 35 and 14 ky at the end of the last glaciation (MIS2), coincides with a local sea level 120 m below the present one. This implies a coastline shifted several kilometres from its current location and the subaerial exposure of a wide strip of the continental shelf covered by sands. The wind blew sand to form dunes towards the continent, covering the coastal areas, which then emerged with no other limitation than the active river channels. Sea-level rise during the Holocene transgression has progressively swamped these aeolian deposits, leaving only flooded dunes, relict coastal dunes and climbing dunes on cliffs up to 180 m high. The aeolian process continued as long as there was a sandy source area to erode, although accretion finished when the sea reached its current level (Late Holocene). Since then, the wind turned from accretion to erosion of the dunes and sand beaches. This erosion exposes the older shingle beaches (probably of Eemian age) buried under the aeolian sands, as well as old, submerged forest remains and megalithic monuments. The destruction of sand beaches and dunes currently observed along the Galician coast is linked, according to most researchers, to anthropogenic global warming. However, their management should consider these evolutive issues.     

Response of tide-dominated mangrove shorelines in Northern Australia to anticipated sea-level rise

The exact response of mangrove shorelines to anticipated sea-level rise will depend upon the balance between sedimentation and sea-level change. Within the Top End of the Northern Territory of Australia there are extensive, relatively unmodified, tide-dominated mangrove forests, where tidal processes redistribute sediment. Harbours, such as Darwin Harbour, and tidal rivers, such as the South Alligator River with its associated coastal and estuarine plains, represent opposite extremes in terms of Holocene sedimentary infill, and will respond differently to sea-level rise. In Darwin Harbour, mangrove assemblages can be recognized in geomorphologically defined habitats. Similar topography within and between creeks implies morphodynamic equilibrium with tidal processes. Tidal reworking of sediment may maintain an equilibrial profile under gradually rising sea level, with resuspension of lower intertidal and subtidal muds and their redeposition within upper intertidal mangrove habitats. In contrast, the plains along the coast and tidal rivers draining into van Diemen Gulf developed during the post-glacial marine transgression, and since sea level stabilized, around 6000 years ago, coastal plains have prograded. These broad plains are presently not extensively influenced by salt water, but are often at elevations close to, or even below, modern high-tide levels. They may, therefore, revert to saline conditions particularly rapidly if the sea rises. The pattern of change may not be directly analogous to marine incursion experienced in the early Holocene, because broad plains have been able to prograde during the last 6000 years of relatively stable sea level.     

Sediment storage and transport in Pancho Rico Valley during and after the Pleistocene‐Holocene transition,Coast Ranges of central California (Monterey County)

Factors influencing sediment transport and storage within the 156·6 km² drainage basin of Pancho Rico Creek (PRC), and sediment transport from the PRC drainage basin to its c. 11 000 km² mainstem drainage (Salinas River) are investigated. Numeric age estimates are determined by optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating on quartz grains from three sediment samples collected from a ‘quaternary terrace a (Qta)’ PRC terrace/PRC‐tributary fan sequence, which consists dominantly of debris flow deposits overlying fluvial sediments. OSL dating results, morphometric analyses of topography, and field results indicate that the stormy climate of the Pleistocene‐Holocene transition caused intense debris‐flow erosion of PRC‐tributary valleys. However, during that time, the PRC channel was backfilled by Qta sediment, which indicates that there was insufficient discharge in PRC to transport the sediment load produced by tributary‐valley denudation. Locally, Salinas Valley alluvial stratigraphy lacks any record of hillslope erosion occurring during the Pleistocene‐Holocene transition, in that the alluvial fan formed where PRC enters the Salinas Valley lacks lobes correlative to Qta. This indicates that sediment stripped from PRC tributaries was mostly trapped in Pancho Rico Valley despite the relatively moist climate of the Pleistocene‐Holocene transition. Incision into Qta did not occur until PRC enlarged its drainage basin by c. 50% through capture of the upper part of San Lorenzo Creek, which occurred some time after the Pleistocene‐Holocene transition. During the relatively dry Holocene, PRC incision through Qta and into bedrock, as well as delivery of sediment to the San Ardo Fan, were facilitated by the discharge increase associated with stream‐capture. The influence of multiple mechanisms on sediment storage and transport in the Pancho Rico Valley‐Salinas Valley system exemplifies the complexity that (in some instances) must be recognized in order to correctly interpret terrestrial sedimentary sequences in tectonically active areas. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

离石北部北川河阶地特征及其新构造指示

详细研究了离石北部一带阶地的地层地貌特征,并尝试对吕梁山山体的隆升进行分析探讨。结果表明,晚更新世以来该区有过三次间歇性隆升,并且三级阶地形成以来即晚更新世早期山体隆升相对快速强烈,二级阶地形成以来即晚更新世晚期至全新世时期山体隆升处于相对缓慢的过程。     

The sea-floor morphology of a Mediterranean shelf fed by small rivers, northern Alboran Sea margin

Depositional geometries and distribution patterns of shelf sediment wedges mainly derived from small rivers located in the northern margin of the Alboran Sea, Western Mediterranean Basin, are reported in this study, in order to understand: (1) their generation under particular physiographic and climatic conditions of river basins; (2) the interaction of shallow-water wedges with submarine valleys. A high amount of data has been used in this study, including river discharge and wave climate data, multibeam bathymetry, high-resolution seismic profiles and surficial sediment samples.The eastern shelf of the study area comprises the prodeltaic wedge off the Guadalfeo River and its eastward continuation, interrupted by the deeply indented Carchuna Canyon head. In contrast, the western shelf receives the contributions of a smaller river, the Verde River, whose associated prodeltaic wedge is limited to the inner shelf. Morphological features of both prodeltas are similar and differ from other Mediterranean prodeltaic bodies, resembling fan deltas. Those similarities include very steep foresets and bottomsets, very shallow and close to the coast offlap break, coarse sediment composition, lobate shape and common occurrence of crenulated sea floor. All these features point out to an origin linked to the activity of high-density sediment flows, rapid sedimentation and limited lateral redistribution. Those processes are favoured by the existence of an abrupt onshore physiography, a regional climate with a marked seasonality that conditioned torrential fluvial regimes and high availability of loose sand and gravel.Shelf sediment by-pass is a likely process during the Holocene in the eastern shelf, as suggested by the identification of two types of submarine valleys: (1) numerous gullies occur from the distal toe of the Guadalfeo River prodelta to the slope; (2) submarine canyon heads affect to the Holocene sedimentary wedge in the eastern sector of the study area. In the western shelf, however, the influence of shelf sedimentation processes on deeper domains is minimal, due to shelf widening, prevalence of relict features and absence of submarine valleys.     

龙陵-瑞丽断裂北段晚第四纪活动性特征及强震复发间隔

野外地质地貌调查表明,龙陵-瑞丽断裂(南支)北段是以左旋走滑为主兼具一定正断分量的区域性活动断裂.断裂晚更新世以来的平均水平滑动速率为2.2mm/a,平均垂直滑动速率为0.6mm/a;全新世以来的平均水平滑动速率为1.8-3.0mm/a,平均垂直滑动速率为0.5mm/a.断裂在晚更新世以来的滑动速率在不同的时间尺度上变化不大,反映出该断裂晚更新世以来的活动强度比较稳定.利用Poisson模型、Lognormal模型、BPT模型三种概率模型计算获得未来50a强震发震概率分别是:6.32％、0.08％、0.05％;三种模型分别取权重0.28、0.36、0.36,获得龙陵-瑞丽断裂北段未来50a特征地震发震概率为1.82％.     

Sediment characteristics and internal architecture of offshore sand ridges on a tideless continental shelf (western Mediterranean)

An integrated approach combining swath bathymetry, an extensive dataset of vibrocores and high-resolution seismic reflection data was used to assess the origin and evolution of offshore sand ridges on a tideless continental shelf (Gulf of Valencia, western Mediterranean). The sand ridges are located in the mid-outer shelf at 55–85 m water depth, obliquely oriented to the shoreline. They are 1.5 to 7 m high, with a wavelength between 600 and 1,100 m and a mean height-to-wavelength ratio of 0.004. The sand ridges are composed of well-sorted medium sand and are partially covered by a mud layer, evidencing a moribund stage. They overlie an erosion surface that locally crops out at the seafloor and is interpreted as the Holocene wave-ravinement surface. In the sediment cores, this surface corresponds to an erosional lag composed of coarse sand and gravel with pebbles. Small topographic irregularities on this surface are interpreted as shoreline-associated features that may act as the precursor for ridge development. Their preservation within the sand ridges could be related to the hardness of these features. Internally, the sand ridges display high-angle dipping reflections, indicating ridge migration towards the southeast in the direction of the present-day sediment transport direction. The presence of interbedded mud layers, associated with these reflections, indicates intermittent episodes of mud deposition when active. The internal architecture of some small ridges also provides new insights into their transition from an active to moribund state, as evidenced by a change in the geometry of the internal units from progradational to aggradational, finally being overlain by onlapping finer deposits over the flanks and in the troughs. The Gulf of Valencia sand ridge field constitutes a valuable potential sand resource of 22 million m³ of well-sorted medium and coarse sand with limited mud content, which must be preserved as a strategic sand reservoir. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Backshore coarsening processes triggered by wave‐induced sand transport: the critical role of storm events

Spatial backshore processes were investigated through field observations of topography and median sand grain size at a sandy beach facing the Pacific Ocean in Japan. A comparison of the backshore profile and cross‐shore distribution of the median sand grain size in 1999 and 2004 revealed an unusual sedimentary process in which sand was coarsened in a depositional area in the 5‐year period, although sediment is generally coarsened in erosional areas. In support of these observations, monthly spatial field analyses carried out in 2004 demonstrated a remarkable backshore coarsening process triggered by sedimentation in the seaward part of the backshore during a storm event. In order to elucidate mechanisms involved in the backshore coarsening process, thresholds of movable sand grain size under wave and wind actions (a uniform parameter for both these cases) in the onshore and offshore directions were estimated using wave, tide, and wind data. The cross‐shore distributions of the estimated thresholds provided reasonable values and demonstrated a coarsening mechanism involving the intermediate zone around the shoreline under alternating wave and wind actions as a result of which coarse sand was transported toward the seaward part of the backshore by large waves during storms and then toward the landward part by strong onshore winds. The 5‐year backshore coarsening is most certainly explained by repetition of short‐term coarsening mechanisms caused by wave‐induced sand transport occurring from the nearshore to the intermediate zone. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd