多向不规则波浪作用下群墩结构上爬高的计算研究

波浪的方向分布对波浪的传播及其与工程结构物的作用都具有明显影响,目前现有的研究大多是基于单向波浪进行的。为了研究方向分布对群墩结构上的爬高影响,基于规则波浪与群墩作用的理论解,结合多向不规则波浪的造波方法,建立了多向不规则波浪与群墩作用的计算模型,同时进行了物理模型试验对模型的有效性进行了验证。系统地对群墩周围及表面上的波浪爬高进行了计算分析,结果表明,方向分布对波浪爬高具有较大的影响,且不同位置处的影响并不相同,在实际的工程设计中如果按照单向波浪计算,可能低估或者高估群墩周围的爬高。     

孤立波爬坡的二维数值模拟

波浪在滩地上以及遇海岸工程后传播发生变形、爬坡等现象,对其进行数值模拟具有广阔的工程应用背景.应用基于Boltzmann方程的KFVS(kinetic flux vector splitting)格式求解二维浅水方程,同时采用干底Riemann解模拟动边界问题.模型模拟了孤立波在滩地上传播变形、爬坡的过程,以及孤立波在滩地上遇圆柱后绕射、变形和爬坡的过程.计算结果与实验结果非常吻合,表明模型具有较大的推广应用价值.     

Spectral wave characteristics off Gangavaram,Bay of Bengal

Spectral wave characteristics were studied based on waves measured for 1 year during 2010 off Gangavaram, Bay of Bengal. Maximum wave height of 5.2 m was observed on 19 May 2010 due to the influence of cyclonic storm LAILA. The wave spectrum was single-peaked during 57 % of the time and the double-peaked spectrum observed was mainly swell-dominated. Low-frequency waves (0.05–0.15 Hz) were predominantly from 150° to 180°, whereas high-frequency waves (>0.15 Hz) during November–January were mainly from 90° to 120°, and during July and August from 180° to 210°. Annual average significant wave height was similar to the value (1 m) observed in the eastern Arabian Sea.     

Forecast of wave run-up on coastal structure using offshore wave forecast data

In this paper, first we introduce the wave run-up scale which describes the degree of wave run-up based on observed sea conditions near and on a coastal structure. Then, we introduce a simple method which can be used for daily forecast of wave run-up on a coastal structure. The method derives a multiple linear regression equation between wave run-up scale and offshore wind and wave parameters using long-term photographical observation of wave run-up and offshore wave forecasting model results. The derived regression equation then can be used for forecasting the run-up scale using the offshore wave forecasting model results. To test the implementation of the method, wave run-up scales were observed at four breakwaters in the East Coast of Korea for 9 consecutive months in 2008. The data for the first 6 months were used to derive multiple linear regression equations, which were then validated using the run-up scale data for the remaining 3 months and the corresponding offshore wave forecasting model results. A comparison with an engineering formula for wave run-up is also made. It is found that this method can be used for daily forecast and warning of wave run-up on a coastal structure with reasonable accuracy.     

斜坡堤波浪爬高和越浪数值模拟

基于FLUENT软件,采用k-ε湍流模型和VOF方法追踪自由表面,由连续性方程和动量方程推导出源函数,根据数值水槽各个区段的功能设置,借助其UDF二次开发功能,实现无反射的源造波,在验证水槽两端消波有效性的基础上,数值模拟规则波在不可渗透斜坡堤上的波浪爬高和越浪。通过与物模试验研究成果相对比,表明建立的数值水槽具有高效性和较高精度,可供实际工程参考应用。     

Extreme wave run-up and pressure on a vertical seawall

The performance of coastal vertical seawalls in extreme weather events is studied numerically, aiming to provide guidance in designing and reassessing coastal structures with vertical wall. The extreme wave run-up and the pressure on the vertical seawall are investigated extensively. A time-domain higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) is coupled with a mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian technique as a time marching technique. Focused wave groups are generated by a piston wave-maker in the numerical wave tank using a wave focusing technique for accurately reproducing extreme sea states. An acceleration-potential scheme is used to calculate the transient wave loads. Comparisons with experimental data show that the extended numerical model is able to accurately predict extreme wave run-ups and pressures on a vertical seawall. The effects of the wave spectrum bandwidth, the wall position and the wave nonlinearity on the wave run-up and the maximum wave load on the vertical seawall are investigated by doing parametric studies.     

片状分布植被对孤立波爬高影响的数值模拟研究

近岸植被对波浪爬坡具有一定的衰减作用。在自然界中,由于植被的死亡、再生或人为破坏等原因,近岸植被通常呈片状分布,且其内部分布也是不均匀的。本文以完全非线性Boussinesq方程为基础,引入植被作用项,建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数值模型,验证了模型可靠性,进而采用该模型模拟分析了片状分布植被对孤立波爬高的影响。数值模拟结果表明,片状分布植被能有效减小孤立波爬高;对于均匀分布的片状植被,高密度片状植被对孤立波爬高的消减效果优于低密度片状植被;对于相同密度、不同分布形式的片状植被,均匀分布的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于不均匀分布的片状植被;对于不均匀分布的片状植被,前密后疏的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于前疏后密的片状植被。     

Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

This paper considers the numerical simulation of nonlinear wave run-up within a highly accurate Boussinesq-type model. Moving wet–dry boundary algorithms based on so-called extrapolating boundary techniques are utilized, and a new variant of this approach is proposed in two horizontal dimensions. As validation, computed results involving the nonlinear run-up of periodic as well as transient waves on a sloping beach are considered in a single horizontal dimension, demonstrating excellent agreement with analytical solutions for both the free surface and horizontal velocity. In two horizontal dimensions cases involving long wave resonance in a parabolic basin, solitary wave evolution in a triangular channel, and solitary wave run-up on a circular conical island are considered. In each case the computed results compare well against available analytical solutions or experimental measurements. The ability to accurately simulate a moving wet–dry boundary is of considerable practical importance within coastal engineering, and the extension described in this work significantly improves the nearshore versatility of the present high-order Boussinesq approach.     

Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach

Statistics of wave run-up maxima have been calculated for 149 35-minutes data runs from a natural beach. During the experiment incident wave height varied from 0.4 to 4.0 m, incident wave period from 6 to 16 s, and beach face slope from 0.07 to 0.20. Four extreme statistics were calculated; the maximum run-up height during each run, the 2% exceedence level of shoreline elevation, the 2% exceedence height for individual run-up peaks, and the 2% exceedence level for swash height as determined by the zero-upcrossing method. These statistics were best parameterized when normalized by the incident significant wave height and plotted against the Iribarren number, ξ = β/(H/L₀)^1/2. The swash data (with set-up removed) showed less scatter than total run-up (with set-up included). For Iribarren number greater than 1.5 the run-up was dominated by the incident frequencies, for lower Iribarren number longer period motions dominated the swash. A reasonable value of wave steepness for a fully developed storm sea is 0.025 so that a storm Iribarren number can be estimated as 6.3 times the beach slope. Using this and an offshore design wave height, the included graphs may provide guidance in determining a design run-up height.     

Dynamic pressures and run-up on semicircular breakwaters due to random waves

The dynamic pressures due to random waves of predefined spectral characteristics exerted on a semicircular breakwater model at five different elevations along the depth are measured. In addition, the wave run-up on the model and its reflection characteristics are measured. The results on the variation of the frequency pressure spectra along the depth and the run-up spectra are reported in this paper. The average spectral characteristics as well as statistical properties of the above two parameters are presented. The average reflection coefficient is reported as a function of the wave steepness, described as the ratio of the significant wave height to the square of the peak period.     

Three-dimensional numerical simulation of solitary wave run-up using the IB method

Although the finite difference method is computationally efficient, it is acknowledged to be inferior when dealing with flow-over on structures with a complex geometry because of its rectilinear grid system. Therefore, we developed a numerical procedure that can cope with flow over structures with complex shapes while, at the same time, retaining the simplicity and efficiency of a rectilinear grid system. We used the immersed boundary method, which involves application of immersed boundary forces at solid boundaries rather than conventional boundary conditions, to investigate wave interactions with coastal structures in a three-dimensional numerical wave tank by solving the Navier–Stokes equations for two-phase flows. We simulated the run-up of a solitary wave around a circular island. Maximum run-up heights were computed around the island and compared with available laboratory measurements and previous numerical results. The three-dimensional features of the run-up process were analyzed in detail and compared with those of depth-integrated equations models.     

A numerical study of nonlinear wave run-up on a vertical plate

A finite difference model based on a recently derived highly-accurate Boussinesq-type formulation is presented. Up to the third-order space derivatives in terms of the velocity variables are retained, and the horizontal velocity variables are re-formulated in terms of a velocity potential. This decreases the total number of unknowns in two horizontal dimensions from seven to five, simplifying the implementation, and leading to increased computational efficiency. Analysis of the embedded properties demonstrates that the resulting model has applications with errors of 2 to 3% for (wavenumber times depth) kh ≤ 10 in terms of dispersion and kh ≤ 4 in terms of internal kinematics. The stability and accuracy of the discrete linearised systems are also analysed for both potential and velocity formulations and the advantages and disadvantages of each are discussed. The velocity potential model is then used to study physically demanding problems involving highly nonlinear wave run-up on a bottom-mounted (surface-piercing) plate. New cases involving oblique incidence are considered. In all cases, comparisons with recent physical experiments demonstrate good quantitative accuracy, even in the most demanding cases, where the local wave steepness can exceed (waveheight divided by wavelength) H / L = 0.20. The velocity potential model is additionally shown to have numerical advantages when dealing with wave–structure interactions, requiring less smoothing around exterior structural corners.     

Predicting wave run-up on rubble-mound structures using M5 model tree

Prediction of run-up level is a key task in design of the coastal structures. For the design of the crest level of coastal structures, the wave run-up level with a 2% exceedance probability, R_u2%, is most commonly used. In this study, the performance of M5 model tree for prediction of the wave run-up on rubble-mound structures was investigated. The main advantage of model trees, unlike the other soft computing tools, is their easier use and more importantly their understandable mathematical rules. Experimental data set of Van der Meer and Stam was used for developing model trees. The conventional governing parameters were selected as the input variables and the obtained results were compared with Van der Meer and Stam’s formula, recommended by the Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM, 2006). The predictive accuracy of the model tree approach was found to be superior to that of Van der Meer and Stam’s empirical formula. Furthermore, to judge the generalization capability of the model tree method, the model developed based on laboratory data set was validated with the prototype run-up measurements on the Zeebrugge breakwater, Belgium. Results show that the model tree is more accurate than empirical formulas and TS Fuzzy approach in estimating the full-scale run-up.     

陡墙式海堤平台对波浪爬高影响

通过物理模型试验研究陡墙式海堤复坡平台高程和宽度对波浪爬高的影响。平台越宽对波浪爬高影响越大,平台位于静水位处对波浪爬高影响最大,并得出了受平台影响的波浪爬高折减系数计算公式,可供工程参考使用。     

Numerical study on cnoidal wave run-up around a vertical circular cylinder

A finite element model of Boussinesq-type equations was set up, and a direct numerical method is proposed so that the full reflection boundary condition is exactly satisfied at a curved wall surface. The accuracy of the model was verified in tests. The present model was used to further examine cnoidal wave propagation and run-up around the cylinder. The results showed that the Ursell number is a nonlinear parameter that indicates the normalized profile of cnoidal waves and has a significant effect on the wave run-up. Cnoidal waves with the same Ursell number have the same normalized profile, but a difference in the relative wave height can still cause differences in the wave run-up between these waves. The maximum dimensionless run-up was predicted under various conditions. Cnoidal waves hold entirely distinct properties from Stokes waves under the influence of the water depth, and the nonlinearity of cnoidal waves enhances rather than weakens with increasing wavelength. Thus, the variations in the maximum run-up with the wavelength for cnoidal waves are completely different from those for Stokes waves, and there are even significant differences in the variation between different cnoidal waves.     

Statistical estimates of characteristics of long-wave run-up on a beach

A run-up of irregular long sea waves on a beach with a constant slope is studied within the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. This problem was solved earlier for deterministic waves, both periodic and pulse ones, using the approach based on the Legendre transform. Within this approach, it is possible to get an exact solution for the displacement of a moving shoreline in the case of irregular-wave run-up as well. It is used to determine statistical moments of run-up characteristics. It is shown that nonlinearity in a run-up wave does not affect the velocity moments of the shoreline motion but influences the moments of mobile shoreline displacement. In particular, the randomness of a wave field yields an increase in the average water level on the shore and decrease in standard deviation. The asymmetry calculated through the third moment is positive and increases with the amplitude growth. The kurtosis calculated through the fourth moment turns out to be positive at small amplitudes and negative at large ones. All this points to the advantage of the wave run-up on the shore as compared to a backwash at least for small-amplitude waves, even if an incident wave is a Gaussian stationary process with a zero mean. The probability of wave breaking during run-up and the applicability limits for the derived equations are discussed.     

深海平台立柱周围波浪非线性爬升研究进展

随着深海油气田的不断开发,各种适应深海环境的浮式平台陆续涌现。多数深海平台通过立柱支撑上层甲板,波浪沿柱体表面的爬升效应极为明显,大大增加了强非线性砰击和越浪的危险,甚至将导致平台局部结构以及相关设备的破坏。因此,波浪爬升效应在平台设计及结构安全性方面具有重要的意义,并成为平台水动力研究的热点问题之一,是平台气隙预报的一个重要方面。介绍波浪爬升效应在平台设计阶段的重要性,分析波浪爬升的成因和影响因素,就目前国际上相关研究情况及进展进行了详细的阐述,并提出了这一课题未来研究方向的有关建议。     

Boundary integral equation solutions for solitary wave generation, propagation and run-up

The boundary integral equation method (BIEM) is developed as a tool for studying two-dimensional, nonlinear water wave problems, including the phenomena of wave generation, propagation and run-up. The wave motions are described by a potential flow theory. Nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions are incorporated in the numerical formulation. Examples are given for either a solitary wave or two successive solitary waves. Special treatment is developed to trace the run-up and run-down along a shoreline. The accuracy of the present scheme is verified by comparing numerical results with experimental data of maximum run-up.     

Third-order interactions,wave run-up and hydrodynamic loading on a vertical plate in an infinite wave field

The nonlinear wave interaction problem with a vertical plate of finite length is considered. Reference is made to previous experimental and numerical studies reported in Molin et al. [1–3], where it was shown that the observed run-up phenomena are due to third-order (or tertiary) interactions between the incoming and reflected wave systems. In this paper a new numerical model is proposed where the presence of lateral walls is relaxed. Run-up computations, with and without confinement effects, are compared. It is found that, in the model tests reported in Molin et al. [3], the effect of confinement was relatively small. The time-varying and steady wave loads which are exerted on the plate are also investigated. The dedicated numerical predictions show that as the wave steepness is increased the response amplitude operators of the time-varying loads first increase, reach a maximum and then decrease dramatically, due to phasing effects.