Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.     

不同介质底床上的波浪衰减

采用近年来的研究成果比较了良在不同介质底床上传播时的波浪衰减规律,对不同介质底床上的波浪衰减机理进行了总结,推荐了计算波浪衰减的公式和方法,根据实验和计算结果解释淤泥质海岸可能存在的波浪传播现象。     

Propagation of a solitary wave over rigid porous beds

The unsteady two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and Navier–Stokes type model equations for porous flows were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of a solitary wave over porous beds. The free surface boundary conditions and the interfacial boundary conditions between the water region and the porous bed are in complete form. The incoming waves were generated using a piston type wavemaker set up in the computational domain. Accuracy of the numerical model was verified by comparing the numerical results with the theoretical solutions. The main characteristics of the flow fields in both the water region and the porous bed were discussed by specifying the velocity fields. Behaviors of boundary layer flows in both fluid and porous bed regions were also revealed. Effects of different parameters on the wave height attenuation were studied and discussed. The results of this numerical model indicate that for the investigated incident wave as the ratio of the porous bed depth to the fluid depth exceeds 10, any further increase of the porous bed depth has no effect on wave height attenuation.     

An extension of the Airy theory for linear waves into shallow water

As a fully developed (Airy) wave propagates from deep into shallow water, its crest becomes more peaked while the trough flattens out. The median crest diameter MCD, defined as the distance between the wave flanks under the crest at a level halfway between the crest and trough, therefore decreases relative to the similarly defined median trough diameter MTD, which remains constant up to the breaking point. The MCD is directly related to other wave characteristics, which enables water particle velocities to be calculated for any water depth without having to recur to more complex, higher-order Stokes, cnoidal or Fenton theories. Over a nearly horizontal bottom, most fully developed wave characteristics can be expressed as functions of the wave period T_w. It is shown that the horizontal particle velocity at the bottom under the breaker crest is at least 9 times faster than under the breaker trough, which explains why sediment is transported landward under fair weather conditions. The proposed equations also shed new light on the formation of spilling, plunging and surging/collapsing breakers.     

An experimental investigation of the velocity field under cnoidal waves over the asymmetric rippled bed

1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…     

Experimental study of strong reflection of regular water waves over submerged breakwaters in tandem

A series of laboratory experiments was carried out to investigate the strong reflection of regular water waves over a train of submerged breakwaters. Rectangular and trapezoidal shapes of submerged breakwaters are employed and compared for reflecting capability of incident waves. Measured reflection coefficients of regular waves over impermeable submerged breakwaters are verified by comparing with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed. Reflection coefficients of permeable submerged breakwaters are less than those of impermeable breakwaters. The trapezoidal shape is recommended for a submerged breakwater in terms of reflecting capability and practical application.     

Measurements of short water waves using stereo matched image sequences

Image analysis techniques are used for retrieving water surface elevation fields spatially and temporally from CCD-images and CCD-image-sequences. The technique proposed herein utilizes binocular stereogrammetry to recover topographic information from a sequence of synchronous, overlapping video images. The method used differs from the traditional stereo-photogrammetric analysis of a single stereo-pair because the use of video allows for a continuous sequence of stereo-images to be digitally sampled and analyzed. For data acquisition two synchronized progressive-scan cameras were used.A partially supervised 3-D stereo system (called WASS, Wave Acquisition Stereo System) is shown here. It is used to reconstruct the 3-D shape of water surface waves, acquired at frame rate, with small computational time needed. The stereo method is presented, including the derivation of a relationship relating the geometry of the stereo rig and the expected errors. Finally, the 3-D calculated scattered points give the complete spatio-temporal distribution of the water surface elevations. The measurable length-scales depend on the pixel resolution, the triangulation accuracy, and the acquisition frame rate. Limitations in the stereo measurements are also discussed.Two experiments to test and to demonstrate the system took place: one on the Venice lagoon, north of the city of Venice in September 2004 and the second on the coast of California at San Diego in December 2005. For the second experiment, qualitative and quantitative intercomparisons of the stereo-matching and in-situ sensor measurements are presented. All the measurements of water surface waves indicate that the proposed approach is both accurate and applicable for measuring water surface waves. Moreover, shape estimates are accurately and extremely dense both in space and time, and the remote location of the instruments alleviates some difficulties associated with in situ instrumentation.     

An explicit finite difference model for simulating weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves over slowly varying water depth

In this paper, a modified leap-frog finite difference (FD) scheme is developed to solve Non linear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE). By adjusting the FD mesh system and modifying the leap-frog algorithm, numerical dispersion is manipulated to mimic physical frequency dispersion for water wave propagation. The resulting numerical scheme is suitable for weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves propagating over a slowly varying water depth. Numerical studies demonstrate that the results of the new numerical scheme agree well with those obtained by directly solving Boussinesq-type models for both long distance propagation, shoaling and re-fraction over a slowly varying bathymetry. Most importantly, the new algorithm is much more computationally efficient than existing Boussinesq-type models, making it an excellent alternative tool for simulating tsunami waves when the frequency dispersion needs to be considered.     

Accuracy of asymptotic series for the kinematics of high solitary waves

The accuracy of several asymptotic series expansions for wave speed and particle velocity under the crest of a solitary wave (on a fluid at rest) up to maximum height is investigated. The very accurate numerical results of Williams (1985) are the measure for our comparisons. The results are based on a scaling of calculated properties of long periodic waves to the case of solitary waves.For wave speeds the classical Boussinesq–Rayleigh expression gives good agreement up to a relative wave height of, say, 0.3. An asymptotic fourth-order expression based on Fenton (1990) can be used up to a relative wave height of 0.7, whereas the corresponding fifth-order expression is slightly less accurate.The Eulerian particle velocity profile under the wave crest is examined using a cnoidal wave expression from Fenton (1990) in the limit of the solitary wave. For low waves a `consistent' (i.e. properly truncated) fifth-order expression and an `inconsistent' ditto both coincide with Williams' results. Beginning at medium high waves, the consistent expression surprisingly exhibits oscillations in the velocity profile, and the oscillations become stronger as the wave gets higher. The inconsistent expression, however, yields the same shape as Williams' profile, but is displaced parallel to this, resulting in slightly larger velocities. For high waves also the inconsistent expression begins to differ in shape from Williams' profile, and asymptotic theory fails. Only for low waves `lowest order theory' gives acceptable results. We show analytically that for the highest wave the particle velocity profile has a horizontal tangent at the water surface; this is corroborated by Williams' numerical results.We also study the particle velocity at the wave crest as a function of wave height. It is shown that the variation has a vertical tangent for the highest wave. Two fifth-order asymptotic series for this velocity, based on the wave speed through the Bernoulli equation, show very good agreement with Williams up to a relative wave height of about 0.6.It is finally shown that it is possible to produce very accurate rational-function approximations to Williams' results for the wave speed as well as for the particle velocity at the wave crest.     

Numerical modeling of nonlinear resonance of semi-enclosed water bodies: Description and experimental validation

The purpose of this work is to a present a numerical model to solve a set of modified Boussinesq equations to analyse nonlinear resonance of semi-enclosed water bodies. The equations are solved on a finite element unstructured grid in order to achieve an optimal mesh resolution with the local geometry. The model is able to simulate long time lapses and realistic forcing in real bathymetries with a reasonable computational cost. To validate the numerical results, a set of experiments was carried out in a physical model of two adjacent elongated basins. Comparisons between numerical and experimental results for different geometries and nonlinear conditions show that the model is able to simulate with an excellent agreement the transient nonlinear resonant process.     

Modified eigenfunction expansion methods for interaction of water waves with a semi-infinite elastic plate

The eigenfunction expansion method (will be referred to as error function method in this paper) of analysing reflection and transmission of ocean waves at a semi-infinite thin elastic plate [J Geophys Res 95 (1990) 11629; Phil Trans R Soc Lond A 347 (1994) 185] is modified and extended to cases with simply supported and built-in edges. The form of the error function in the eigenfunction expansion method of Fox and Squire [J Geophys Res 95 (1990) 11629] has been modified based on a dimensional analysis and also extended to plates with either a simply supported or a built-in edge. The modified error function does not include the so-called Lagrange multipliers used in the original method and therefore the modified solution is independent of the selection of the Lagrange multipliers. It is demonstrated that the modified error function method satisfies the relation of energy conservation very well for the three edge conditions examined. The relation of energy conservation for plates is derived for elastic plates with simply supported and built-in edges and it is found that the relation of energy conservation for a free edge is also held for simply supported and built-in edges.In addition, a minor modification has also been made to the eigenfunction method (will be called inner product method in this study) of Sahoo et al. [Proceedings of 10th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference 3 (2000) 594]. It will be shown that the modified inner product method becomes mathematically well defined. The modified coefficient matrixes for different edge conditions are diagonal and thus the linear simultaneous equations can be solved very easily. It is also demonstrated with examples that the extended error function method and the modified inner product method give identical results.     

Scattering of obliquely incident water waves by partially reflecting non-transmitting breakwaters

In the present paper, analytic solutions are derived for scattering of water waves obliquely incident to a partially reflecting semi-infinite breakwater or breakwater gap. In order to examine the correctness of the derived solutions, they are compared with the solutions derived by McIver (1999) and Bowen and McIver (2002) for a semi-infinite breakwater and a breakwater gap, respectively, in the case of perfect reflection. The derived analytic solutions are used to investigate the effect of reflection coefficient of the breakwater and wave incident angle upon the tranquility at harbor entrance. The tranquility is deteriorated by the reflected waves as the reflection coefficient increases and as waves are incident more obliquely.     

On the radiation and diffraction of water waves by a rectangular structure with a sidewall

A radiation and diffraction boundary value problem is investigated. It arises from the interaction of linear water waves with a freely floating rectangular structure in a semi-infinite fluid domain of finite water depth with the leeward boundary being a vertical wall. Analytical expressions for the radiated potentials and the diffracted potential are obtained by use of the method of separation of variables and the eigenfunction expansion method. The added masses and damping coefficients for the structure heaving, swaying and rolling in calm water are obtained by use of the corresponding radiated potentials and the wave excitation forces are calculated by use of the diffracted potential. To verify the correctness of the method, a boundary element method is used. A comparison of the analytical results with those obtained by the boundary element method is made and good agreement is achieved, which shows that the analytical expressions for the radiated and diffracted potentials are correct. By use of the present analytical solution, the added mass, damping coefficients, wave excitation force, together with the hydrodynamic effects of the draft, width of the structure and the clearance between the structure and the sidewall are also investigated.     

Application of desingularized approach to water wave propagation over three-dimensional topography

A numerical approach based on desingularized boundary element method and mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [Zhang et al., 2006. Wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank: a desingularized method. Ocean Engineering 33, 2310–2331] is extended to solve the water wave propagation over arbitrary topography in a three-dimensional wave tank. A robust damping layer applicable for regular and irregular incident waves is employed to minimize the outgoing wave reflection back into the wave tank. Numerical results on the propagation of regular and irregular incident waves over the flat bottom and linear incident waves over an elliptical shoal show good concurrence with the corresponding analytical solutions and experimental data.     

Internal generation of waves: Delta source function method and source term addition method

In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases.     

Effect of a submerged plate on the near-bed dynamics underincoming waves in deep water conditions

It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current.