波峰特征量的统计分布

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关     

Wave crest and trough distributions in a broad-banded directional wave field

It is well established that the modulational instability enhances the probability of occurrence for extreme events in long crested wave fields. Recent studies, however, have shown that the coexistence of directional wave components can reduce the effects related to the modulational instability. Here, numerical simulations of the Euler equations are used to investigate whether the modulational instability may produce significant deviations from second-order statistical properties of surface gravity waves when short crestness (i.e., directionality) is accounted for. The case of a broad-banded directional wave field (i.e. wind sea) is investigated. The analysis is concentrated on the wave crest and trough distribution. For completeness a comparison with a unidirectional wave field is presented also. Results will show that the distributions based on second-order theory provide a good estimate for the simulated crest and trough height also at low probability levels.     

斜坡堤典型胸墙波浪力的影响因素

为探求斜坡堤典型胸墙迎浪面所受波浪力大小的影响因素,设计前仰式、深弧式、后仰式和直立式4种结构型式胸墙进行相关的物理模型试验。通过在典型胸墙迎浪面间隔布置压力测点,获取所受波浪压力,并将其进行积分求和,得到胸墙所受波浪力,进而讨论相对波高、相对波长、斜坡坡度和胸墙结构型式对波浪力的影响。结果表明,相对波高与相对波长对胸墙所受波浪力影响显著;波浪力随着相对波高的增大而增大,随着相对波长的增大呈现先增大、后减小、再增大的变化趋势;波浪力随着斜坡坡度的增大而减小。斜坡堤弧形胸墙所受波浪力明显大于直立式胸墙所受波浪力;在斜坡堤弧形胸墙中,前仰式胸墙受力较其余两种型式胸墙受力小。研究结果将加深波浪对斜坡堤胸墙作用力的理解,为后续工程设计提供理论指导。     

三维波峰的数值模拟

给出了三维波峰的定义,描述了波峰临界值的确定过程,分析了三维随机海浪的方向谱和三维随机海浪的数学描述,在MATLAB环境下设计了随机海面波峰的数值模拟程序,并给出了深水波峰的三维空间模型及其在不同方向传播参数和不同方向函数下平面分布的变化。     

斜坡堤典型胸墙波浪力影响因素的试验与分析

为探求斜坡堤典型胸墙迎浪面所受波浪力大小的影响因素,设计前仰式、深弧式、后仰式和直立式四种结构型式胸墙进行相关的物理模型试验。通过在典型胸墙迎浪面间隔布置压力测点获取所受波浪压力,并将其进行积分求和得到胸墙所受波浪力,进而讨论相对波高(H/d)、相对波长(L/d)、斜坡坡度和胸墙结构型式对波浪力的影响。试验结果表明：相对波高与相对波长对胸墙所受波浪力影响显著。波浪力随着相对波高的增大而增大,随着相对波长的增大呈现先增大—后减小—再增大的变化趋势。波浪力随着斜坡坡度的增大而减小。斜坡堤弧形胸墙所受波浪力明显大于直立式胸墙所受波浪力;在斜坡堤弧形胸墙中,前仰式胸墙受力较其余两种型式胸墙受力小。研究结果将加深波浪对斜坡堤胸墙作用力的理解,为后续工程设计提供理论指导。     

方向分布对三维聚焦波浪波面特性影响研究

波浪聚焦被认为是产生极限波浪的重要机理之一,近年来受到普遍重视。通过高阶谱方法,引入造波边界建立数值计算模型,模拟聚焦波浪在不同方向分布时的产生和聚焦过程,研究波浪的方向分布对聚焦波浪的波面、波峰最大值、聚焦点的偏移、波面参数及频谱的影响。研究结果表明波浪方向分布越窄,波浪的非线性影响越强、波面越陡,波峰值、聚焦点的偏移和波面特征参数都越大;同时方向分布对波浪聚焦前后的能量具有很大的影响。     

非淹没刚性植物对海啸作用下海堤水动力特性影响数值模拟研究

基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度数值波浪水槽。通过设计不同的计算工况,系统研究了非淹没刚性植物对海啸作用下海堤周围水动力特性的影响。着重分析了不同入射波高、不同植物分布密度以及不同植物分布宽度条件下海啸波沿程波形特征以及海堤堤顶越浪流空间分布特征。结果表明:不同入射波高、植物分布密度以及植物宽度条件下,堤顶流厚度和水体流速具有明显单调的变化趋势,并且随着植物分布密度和宽度增大,波能衰减增大;随着入射波非线性增强,植物分布密度和分布宽度对堤顶前段水流厚度的影响也随之增强,而对堤顶后段水流厚度的影响则减弱,且堤顶后缘水流厚度约为堤顶前缘厚度的二分之一;在波浪非线性较大情况下,植物的存在对堤顶流速度的空间分布趋势几乎没有影响,但相对堤顶流速度增加程度均大于无植物情况,且堤顶后缘水流速度约为堤顶前缘的1.6倍。     

不同波峰定义对波峰统计特征值的影响

在三维随机海浪数值模拟的基础上,获得了波峰的空间分布。为了验证由不同的波峰定义方法得到的波峰长度和波峰方向角等特征量的准确性,对直接利用波峰边界上距离最远的两点之间距离定义波峰长度和利用椭圆拟合波峰和以椭圆的要素定义波峰长度2种不同方法得到的波峰长度统计结果进行了比较,发现由2种方法定义得到的波峰特征量的值基本一致,尤其是波峰长度个数的统计值极为接近,由2种方法得到的统计值精确度相当。这表明,不同定义方法对边界不规则波峰长度统计值的影响较小。     

Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan

This paper presents an analysis of a set of available freak wave measurements gathered from several periods of continuous wave recordings made in the Sea of Japan during 1986–1990 by the Ship Research Institute of Japan. The analysis provides an ideal opportunity to catch a glimpse of the statistics of freak waves in the ocean. The results show that a well-defined freak wave may occur in the developed wind–wave condition: S(f)∝f⁻⁴, with single-peak directional spectra. The crest and trough amplitude distributions of the observed sea waves including freak waves are different from the Rayleigh distribution, although the wave height distribution tends to agree with the Rayleigh distribution. Freak waves can be readily identified from the wavelet spectrum where a strong energy density occurs in the spectrum, and is instantly surged and seemingly carried over to the high-frequency components at the instant the freak wave occurs.     

由模拟波面分析双峰谱型海浪的统计特征

采用目前国际上最新的随机波分析方法,由协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,对美国国家浮标44008站2002年6月一典型的双峰海浪谱资料进行谱分析.以实测平均谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟.得到模拟波面估计谱与实测谱极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致.说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征.利用实测海浪谱密度,统计波特征量的周期概率分布,得到理论周期概率密度与估计周期概率密度分布相符较好,且与模拟波面的波周期分布也较好的一致.利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.得到变换高斯过程计算的波高与周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布.     

风浪波高和周期的联合概率密度分布

本文采用有代表性的44008美国国家浮标站2003年1～3月实测的海浪谱密度资料,选取三次大风过程进行风浪谱分析。通过对实测平均海浪谱与PM谱、JONSWAP谱及Torsethaugen谱的比较,得到PM谱拟和最好。然后用国际上最先进的随机波分析方法,根据协方差矩阵的循环嵌套技术,以实测平均谱与PM谱为靶谱,对随机波面进行模拟。得到由模拟波面统计的特征值及估计的谱与实测谱结果极为相近,谱峰及谱峰频率都基本一致。说明利用模拟波面研究海浪具有代表性,它可以反映实测海浪的特征。利用Longuet-Higgins(1983)模型计算波高-周期联合概率密度分布,得到变换高斯过程计算的波高、周期联合分布与实测情况基本相同,更好地描述了波高-周期联合概率密度分布。     

利用SWAN波浪模式研究北部湾海域台风浪场的波浪方向谱特征

以高精度再分析风场为驱动,利用SWAN模式模拟了台风“达维”Damrey（2005）经过北部湾海域时的波浪场。通过与实测的风和波浪实测对比发现,波浪后报结果与实测结果符合较好。文章给出了台风浪期间波高、周期、波长和波向等要素的分布特征,讨论了以台风眼为中心不同海域的波浪方向谱特征。本文最后分析了台风期间实测波浪能谱的变化特征。     

Effects of high-order nonlinear interactions on unidirectional wave trains

Numerical simulations of gravity waves with high-order nonlinearities in two-dimensional domain are performed by using the pseudo spectral method. High-order nonlinearities more than third order excite apparently chaotic evolutions of the Fourier energy in deep water random waves. The high-order nonlinearities increase kurtosis, wave height distribution and H_max/H_1/3 in deep water and decrease these wave statistics in shallow water. Moreover, they can generate a single extreme high wave with an outstanding crest height in deep water. High-order nonlinearities (more than third order) can be regarded as one cause of freak waves in deep water.     

Extreme wave crest distribution by direct numerical simulations of long-crested nonlinear wave fields

The wave crest height qualification checks are required during the wave calibration before the model test in wave basin. However, the reliable criteria of nonlinear wave crest probability distribution in 3-h duration (full-scale) has not been well established yet. We investigate wave crest-height statistics of long-crested nonlinear wave fields using high-order spectral (HOS) method, which can take the effects of both second-order bound waves and third-order free waves into account. The energy dissipation effects due to wave breaking were included by employing an eddy viscosity model. Sensitivity analyses to the wave breaking onset criterion have been performed. Validation is provided by comparing the obtained numerical results with the available calibration test data. Based on extensive and direct numerical simulations, semi-empirical single realization distributions for wave calibration have been developed through 3-parameter Weibull fitting and systematic regression analyses. Particular attention has been paid to the tail of upper bound of wave crest distributions. The effects of wave steepness and water depth on the maximum wave crest height in 3-h duration have been examined. It is found that with the increase of wave steepness, the extreme wave crest height increases until it reaches a critical value. In addition, for the scale water depth k_ph < 1.36, the maximum crest height decreases as the water depth increases, while in the opposite case the maximum crest height increases as the water depth increases. Moreover, it is confirmed that that the fourth-order nonlinearity does not have significant effects on the distribution of the wave crest height.     

斜向波浪对半圆型防波堤作用的实验研究

通过正向与斜向波浪对半圆型防波堤(不开孔出水堤)的实验研究,给出了其水力特性及单位堤长所受的无因次水平波浪力、竖向波浪力和波浪浮托力随各主要影响因素的变化规律,特别指出了斜向波浪力可大于正向波浪力及水平波浪力中波谷作用大于波峰作用发生的条件。     

New theoretical aspects of statistical properties of narrow-banded random waves

By using a new concept of the discrete amplitude, we examine the statistical properties of narrow-banded random waves. The main results are as follows: (1) the wave height distribution follows the Rayleigh distribution in the case of an infinitely narrow-banded spectrum in the strict sense; (2) the discrete amplitudes, different from the crest heights, are distributed according to the Rayleigh distribution for arbitrary bandwidth spectra; (3) the statistical distribution of the gap length between the discrete amplitude and the crest is examined and derived theoretically. The derived distribution agrees well with the result of numerical simulations; (4) taking into account the gap length distribution, the probability density function of crest heights is derived, which deviates from the Rayleigh distribution.     

Physical Investigation of Directional Wave Focusing and Breaking Waves in Wave Basin

An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distrihution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced hy wave directionality and that that breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.     

Satellite-based RAR performance simulation for measuring directional ocean wave spectrum based on SAR inversion spectrum

Some missions have been carried out to measure wave directional spectrum by synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and airborne real aperture radar (RAR) at a low incidence. Both them have their own advantages and limitations. Scientists hope that SAR and satellite-based RAR can complement each other for the research on wave properties in the future. For this study, the authors aim to simulate the satellite-based RAR system to validate performance for measuring the directional wave spectrum. The principal measurements are introduced and the simulation methods based on the one developed by Hauser are adopted and slightly modified. To enhance the authenticity of input spectrum and the wave spectrum measuring consistency for SAR and satellite-based RAR, the wave height spectrum inversed from Envisat ASAR data by cross spectrum technology is used as the input spectrum of the simulation system. In the process of simulation, the sea surface, backscattering signal, modulation spectrum and the estimated wave height spectrum are simulated in each look direction. Directional wave spectrum are measured based on the simulated observations from 0° to 360°. From the estimated wave spectrum, it has an 180° ambiguity like SAR, but it has no special high wave number cut off in all the direction. Finally, the estimated spectrum is compared with the input one in terms of the dominant wave wavelength, direction and SWH and the results are promising. The simulation shows that satellite-based RAR should be capable of measuring the directional wave properties. Moreover, it indicates satellite-based RAR basically can measure waves that SAR can measure.     

多向不规则波浪作用下群墩结构上爬高的计算研究

波浪的方向分布对波浪的传播及其与工程结构物的作用都具有明显影响,目前现有的研究大多是基于单向波浪进行的。为了研究方向分布对群墩结构上的爬高影响,基于规则波浪与群墩作用的理论解,结合多向不规则波浪的造波方法,建立了多向不规则波浪与群墩作用的计算模型,同时进行了物理模型试验对模型的有效性进行了验证。系统地对群墩周围及表面上的波浪爬高进行了计算分析,结果表明,方向分布对波浪爬高具有较大的影响,且不同位置处的影响并不相同,在实际的工程设计中如果按照单向波浪计算,可能低估或者高估群墩周围的爬高。