The difference between the joint probability distributions of apparent wave heights and periods and individual wave heights and periods

The joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves is usually approximated by the joint distribution of apparent wave heights and periods. However there is difference between them. This difference is addressed and the theoretical joint distributions of apparent wave heights and periods due to Longuet-Higgins and Sun are modified to give more reasonable representations of the joint distribution of wave heights and periods of individual waves. The modification has overcome an inherent drawback of these joint PDFs that the mean wave period is infinite. A comparison is made between the modified formulae and the field data of Goda, which shows that the new formulae consist with the measurement better than their original counterparts.     

The distribution of zero-crossing wave heights and periods in a stationary sea state

Existing theoretical distributions of wave height and period do not reflect measured joint distributions from field data. A simulation methodology is introduced to retain the essential features of the theoretical background in Gaussian random noise but to avoid further compromising assumptions in the interpretation of height and period in the amplitude domain. A joint distribution can be associated directly with an empirical or measured variance spectrum. Spectral shape appears to dominate the detail of predicted joint distributions. There is generally a much sharper decay in probability levels at higher periods than is predicted by theoretical models. For Jonswap spectra, there is a dominant central ridge and a distinct bimodal structure in the joint distribution, features that are not evident in symmetric Gaussian spectral forms. The wave height distributions for Jonswap spectra differ little from the Rayleigh distribution, except at extreme wave heights where Rayleigh overpredicts. The period distributions are strongly sensitive to spectral shape. In the conditional distribution of periods, given the height, the asymptotic median period at extreme wave heights is significantly longer than the mean period for Jonswap spectra, but not for symmetric Gaussian forms.     

Statistical properties of successive wave heights and successive wave periods

Two successive wave heights are modeled by a Gaussian copula, which is referred to as the Nataf model. Results with two initial distributions for the transformation are presented, the Næss model [Næss A. On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights. Ocean Engineering (1985);12(3):221–34] and a two-parameter Weibull distribution, where the latter is in best agreement with data. The results are compared with existing models. The Nataf model has also been used for modeling three successive wave heights.Results show that the Nataf transformation of three successive wave heights can be approximated by a first order autoregressive model. This means that the distribution of the wave height given the previous wave height is independent of the wave heights prior to the previous wave height. Thus, the joint distribution of three successive wave heights can be obtained by combining conditional bivariate distributions. The simulation of successive wave heights can be done directly without simulating the time series of the complete surface elevation.Successive wave periods with corresponding wave heights exceeding a certain threshold have also been studied. Results show that the distribution for successive wave periods when the corresponding wave heights exceed the root-mean-square value of the wave heights, can be approximated by a multivariate Gaussian distribution.The theoretical distributions are compared with observed wave data obtained from field measurements in the central North Sea and in the Japan Sea, with laboratory data and numerical simulations.     

湄洲湾波高和波周期的统计分布

本文探讨了福建湄洲湾海区的波高和波周期的一元分布和二元联合分布,并给出了该海区波浪的各种统计特征值,提出了波高和波周期的经验分布模式。     

Nonlinear effects on the distribution of crest-to-trough wave heights

The statistical distribution of the crest-to-trough heights of narrowband nonlinear sea waves is derived in a semi-closed form. A quantitative comparison of the resulting density and exceedance probability distributions with those of the linear theory is given. It is shown that the nonlinearity of waves, even with steepnesses typical of extreme sea states, has an insignificant influence on the distribution of crest-to-trough heights.     

On the joint distribution of heights and periods of sea waves

In the design of offshore structures, a consistent method of choosing the height and period for the adopted design wave may be crucial for a reliable design. With this objective, the joint probability density function for the height and period is considered in this paper. At first the adequacy of a simple theoretical model for the joint distribution under stationary conditions is investigated, using measurements achieved during storms in Northern North Sea. In a slightly modified form the model is found to be of a reasonable accuracy as far as the highest waves are of interest. Design curves regarding simultaneous values of heights and periods are estimated by means of this model and their possible impact for design is discussed.     

Correlation between successive wave heights and periods in mixed sea states

The degree of dependence between successive wave heights and periods is examined for sea states resulting from the combination of a remotely generated wave field and a locally generated wave system, based on simulated wave records. The sea states analysed represent situations that are swell dominated, wind–sea dominated or they have equivalent energy in the wind–sea and swell components. Results of the analysis of the simulated data have been compared with those expected from the theories for the joint distributions of consecutive wave heights and periods and with the results from a Pierson–Moskowitz target spectrum.     

On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights

In the present paper we derive the probability distribution function of crest to trough wave heights in a narrow-band, Gaussian stochastic process. It is shown that the distribution function is a one-parameter Rayleigh distribution where the parameter is expressed in terms of the correlation function of the given process. Comparison based on correlation values obtained via sea wave spectra indicate that the derived distribution function agrees well with observed data.     

Maximum entropy principle and statistical distribution of ocean wave heights

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极值波高与历时联合分布的重现水平分析

使用美国北卡罗来纳州的 FRF 1985—2016 年的极值波高及其持续时间数据,采用最优的 Gumbel-Hougaard copula函数和 Kendall 分布函数构建极值波高和相应历时不同组合的联合概率分布模式,分析各个组合的遭遇概率、“或”重现期、“且”重现期和 Kendall 重现期,以出现最大可能概率的方法推算各组合联合设计值。结果表明：Kendall 重现期所对应的累积频率更准确地代表了特定设计频率下的风险率;重现期分别为 5 年、10 年、20 年、50 年、100 年、200 年推算的 Kendall重现期设计值介于“或”重现期和“且”重现期设计值之间,小于相应的边缘分布设计值;基于 Kendall 重现期的极值波高及其持续时间不同重现期组合推算的结果可为海洋工程构筑物设计与风险管理提供新的选择与参考。     

基于广义极值分布的设计波高推算

简介了广义极值分布函数及其3种参数估计方法,包括极大似然(ML)、线性矩(LM)和间隔最大积(MPS)估计的计算方法。使用广义极值分布函数推算了北部湾涠洲岛海域3个波向的年波高极值序列设计波高,并与Weibull分布、Gumbel分布和皮尔逊Ⅲ型分布的推算结果加以对比。分析表明,涠洲岛海域极值波高服从于广义极值Ⅲ型分布,拟合优度检验结果表明广义极值分布能更好地拟合极值波高;MPS方法是一种优良的参数估计法,推算的设计波高可作为海岸环境工程设计的首要参考值。     

一种新的非线性波浪周期概率分布

在最大熵原则的基础上,通过解一条件变分问题,导出一种新的适用于描述非线性波浪周期T统计分布的概率密度函数.这种概率分布有如下的优越性:(1)该分布的参数是由无因次周期的m(m为正数)阶分布矩得出,从而周期的信息熵达到最大,故适用于描述波浪周期的非线性;(2)该分布有4个参数,从而更能符合最大熵原则;(3)该分布形式简单...     

Modified Rayleigh distribution of wave heights in transitional water depths

This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models.     

极值波高Weibull分布的参数估计方法对比分析

介绍了三参数威布尔分布及其4种参数估计方法：极大似然估计法、相关系数优化法、灰色估计法和概率权重矩法。利用蒙特卡罗法对以上参数估计方法进行不同样本尺度的模拟,通过偏差、标准差和均方误差对比分析各种方法的特点、精度和适用性。运用上述方法结合涠洲站34a实测年极值波高,推算涠洲岛的设计波高,从相关系数、均方根误差和Q统计值分析各种方法的差异及优劣性。结果表明,小样本情况下各估计法的差别较大,而大样本时差别较小,极大似然估计法能较好拟合各种大小的样本,相关系数优化法次之;选取合适的经验频率会提高参数估计精度;各种参数估计方法计算而得的设计波高相差不大,其中极大似然估计法的精度最高     

基于广义Pareto分布的波高极值序列频率分析

应用广义Pareto分布(GPD)分析超阈值波高序列的设计值。以位于美国北卡罗来纳州的FRF历时32年连续测量的逐日波高序列为例,检验了不同波高阈值样本的泊松分布,采用多种方法综合确定最佳阈值的拟合优度指标。对最优广义Pareto分布和GEV分布及P-Ⅲ分布推算的波高重现水平做了对比分析。得到以下结论:(1)波高的GPD属于短尾型分布;(2)拟合优度指标表明构建的波高GPD模型普遍优于GEV和P-Ⅲ型;(3)GPD的参数估计方法对设计波高的计算结果有较大影响。     

Interpolation of wave heights

Remote sensing of waves often necessitates presentation of data in the form of wave height values grouped over large time intervals. This restricts their use to long-term applications only. This paper describes how such data can be made suitable for short-term usage in the field. Weekly mean significant wave heights were derived from their monthly mean observations with the help of different alternative techniques. These include model-free neural network schemes as well as model-based statistical and numerical methods. Superiority of neural networks was noted when the estimations were compared with corresponding observations. The network was trained using three different training algorithms, viz., error back propagation, conjugate gradient and cascade correlation. The technique of cascade correlation took minimum training time and showed better coefficient of correlation between observations and network output.     

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.     

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.     

基于最大熵原理的非瑞利海浪波高的统计分布

本论文在最大熵原理的基础上,通过解一个条件变分问题导出一种适用于描述非瑞利海浪波高H统计分布的概率密度函数fn(H)=αHre-βHn,用实验室风浪槽中不同风速下和不同风区处实测的36组风浪波高数据对上述概率密度函数进行验证,并与至今仍被广泛应用的瑞利波高概率密度函数加以比较.结果显示瑞利概率密度函数显著地偏离实验数据,而上述概率密度函数则与各组实测波高分布均符合良好.     

Probability distribution of wave heights attenuated by salt marsh vegetation during tropical cyclone

Zero-crossing wave heights, obtained from the field measurement of random waves propagating through salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) during a tropical storm, were analyzed to examine their probability distribution. Wave data (significant wave heights up to 0.4 m in 0.8 m depth) were collected over a two-day period along a 28 m transect using three pressure transducers sampling at 10 Hz. Wave height distribution was observed to deviate from the Rayleigh distribution. The observed probability densities of the larger wave heights were reduced significantly by vegetation, producing wave heights lower than those predicted by the Rayleigh distribution. Assuming Rayleigh distributed wave heights for the incident waves to the vegetation patch, existing vegetation-induced wave attenuation formulations are used to derive a special form of two-parameter Weibull distribution for wave heights in the inundated wetland. The scale parameter of the distribution is theoretically shown to be a function of the shape parameter, which agrees with the measurements, effectively reducing the proposed distribution to a one-parameter type. The derived distribution depends on the local parameters only and fits well to the observed distribution of wave heights attenuated by vegetation. Empirical relationships are developed to estimate the shape parameter from the local wave parameters.