利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料分析台湾岛周边海域巨浪和大风特征

卫星高度计实现了对全球性或区域性的海洋参量的实时监测,TOPEX卫星高度计提供了迄今为止时间序列最长、数据质量最高的全球海面风速和有效波高的同步观测资料。利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料,分析了有效波高4m以上的巨浪在台湾岛周边海域的时空分布特征,结果表明台湾岛周边海域巨浪的分布具有明显的季节特征。每年平均有效波高最大值大多数出现在夏季,春季是1a中有效波高最小的季节,而秋季和冬季是巨浪出现频率最高的季节。波高大于6m的巨浪大都出现在台湾岛东部及东北部海域,在南部海域出现较少。     

基于T/P卫星高度计资料的台湾岛周边海域风浪的分布和时间变化特征

利用有效波高和风速的3种概率密度函数分布:Rayleigh概率密度函数分布、Weibull概率密度函数分布、Log-Normal密度函数分布,结合TOPEX卫星高度计资料,对台湾岛周边海域的有效波高和风速进行分析比较.结果表明:有效波高的观测资料直方图与Log-Normal概率密度函数分布符合较好;而风速的观测资料直方图与Weibull概率密度函数分布符合较好.台湾岛周边海域的大部分海域以年变化为主,有效波高的平均值在冬季达到最大值,每年12月的平均值最大.每年平均有效波高最大值大多数出现在夏季,春季则是一年中有效波高平均值最小的季节,秋季和冬季则是巨浪出现频率较高的季节.同时,对有效波高平均值的时间序列做傅立叶展开表明,对应周期为1 a变化时的波动能量占每条轨道的波高波动能量的主要分量.     

利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料分析东中国海的风、浪场特征

利用TOPEX卫星高度计和日本气象厅浮标观测资料,对东中国海的有效波高和风速进行比较,分析了卫星高度计资料的有效性。利用有效波高和风速的3种概率密度函数分布,结合TOPEX卫星高度计资料,并采用最大似然方法对统计分布参数进行估计,结果表明,有效波高的对数-正态概率密度分布与观测资料的直方图在有效波高的整个范围内符合较好,风速的直方图与Weibul概率密度分布符合较好。同时,分析了有效波高大于4 m的巨浪在东中国海的时空分布特征,表明巨浪多出现在冬、秋两季,平均有效波高最大值出现在夏季,且主要分布在东中国海东南部。     

TOPEX卫星高度计有效波高数据分析与极值统计预报

利用 TOPEX卫星高度计测量的有效波高资料 ,对中国近海 9个海域进行卫星高度计的 C,Ku两波段测量值的比较分析与处理 ,得出合理的有效波高数值。利用三参数 Weibull分布 ,以渤海海域、上海附近海域和南海东部海域作为特定区进行有效波高的极值统计预报 ,并进行了统计分析     

TOPEX卫星高度计有效波高数据分析与极值统计预报

利用TOPEX卫生高度计测量的有效波高资料，对中国近海9个海域进行了卫星主度计的C，Ku两波段测量值的比较分析与处理,出合理的有效波高数值。利用三参数Weibull分布，以渤海海域、上海附近海域和南海东部海域的作为特定区进行有效波高的极值统计预报，并进行了统计分析。     

台湾岛周边海域近16a来海平面变化研究

利用1992年10月至2008年6月的卫星高度计融合资料对台湾岛周边海域（20°～28°N,117°～124°E）多年海平面变化进行分析.研究结果表明：（1）采用改进的月平均水位周期信号的谱分析方法计算多年来台湾岛周边海域海平面年均上升速率为0.34±0.02 cm/a,与该海域内的潮位站结果较为一致.（2）台湾岛周边海域海平面高度变化以1 a周期变化为主,其次为0.5 a、准2 a周期变化.（3）通过计算海平面异常的标准差得出多年来台湾海峡西南部海域海平面波动最为激烈.（4）分析了台湾岛周边海域海平面4个季节的变化情况,指出台湾岛周边海域海平面季节变化的主要驱动力是风场.     

TOPEX高度计数据反演北太平洋海浪周期

利用TOPEX高度计和NDBC浮标同步观测数据,对7种高度计海浪周期反演模型进行了系统的比较分析,从反演模式的精度、反演周期整体分布、周期-波高的联合分布等方面对反演模型做出了评价,并根据墨西哥湾和夏威夷海域反演结果对模型的区域适应性进行了验证,结合Hasselmann风浪充分成长关系分析了不同海浪成分下模型的反演效果。分析发现,Mackay等于2008年提出的算法(简称M08)相对于其他算法精度最高,且在不同海域和不同海浪成分下精度没有明显差异。利用M08算法反演了北太平洋海域的海浪平均周期分布,讨论其空间分布特征和季节变化特征如下:北太平洋海域的平均周期在墨西哥湾、西里伯斯海等沿岸地区较小,在西风带海域为较大,并存在明显的地形、纬度差异和季节性变化特征。     

基于遥感的台湾岛周边海域表层海水温盐特征

卫星遥感具有观测周期短、频率高的优势,可实现大范围、连续的海洋观测。利用遥感的手段对台湾岛周边海域表层海水温度和盐度进行反演,研究了台湾岛周边海域表层海水温度和盐度的分布特征及其成因。研究表明,台湾岛周边海域海水表层温度总体呈现西北低、东南高,由NW向SE以圆弧状向吕宋岛北部沿岸扩散,温度逐步升高,吕宋岛北部沿岸常年温度在26℃以上;台湾岛东部海域海水盐度全年相对稳定,吕宋岛北部有一相对固定高盐度区域,台湾海峡受季风、黑潮分支、沿岸流的影响,盐度分布变化较大。     

GEOSAT高度计遥感分析南海北部的海浪特征

卫星高度计可获取有关海面波浪和粗糙度的信息,可给出较高精度的海浪有效波高值.本文以1988年GEOSAT卫星高度计资料为依据,研究分析了南海北部海域的有效波高特征,并与常规断面调查所得结论作了比较分析.结果表明,GEOSAT高度计研究区域波浪特征与常规手段所得结论基本一致,但对大风浪海况的研究,卫星高度计资料具有明显的优势.     

采用卫星高度计资料分析南海风、浪的月平均特征

在分析1987—1988年两年间Geosat卫星高度计遥感资料的基础上,给出了南海海面月平均风速和月平均有效波高的分布,以及沿南海NE－SW向的风、浪年变化特征;并与船舶报资料作了对比分析,其结果显示该高度计遥感资料与常规资料（船舶报资料）基本一致。     

Model of the post-Cenozoic evolution of the cryolithozone of the shelf of the western part of the Laptev Sea

The analysis of the structure of the cryolithozone, facies, and thicknesses of the Quaternary sediments and the results of the physicochemical mathematical modeling of the modern shelf of the western part of the Laptev Sea support the influence of the Late Pleistocene glaciations on the heat conditions and the distribution of the permafrost in the area. A ～200-m thick glacier formed under aerial conditions from atmospheric precipitation represented the metamorphosed snow cover. According to the modeling, the long-living (from 60?50 to 10?4 ky) glacier reduced the thickness of the permafrost rocks in the reviewed shelf area for 280–360 m. The Holocene marine transgression additionally decreased the thickness from 50–140 m on the inner shelf to 220–350 m on the outer shelf. The modern submarine cryolithozone 450-0 m thick is wide-spread in the studied region from the coast to the shelf boundary (isobaths of 130–140 m), where it pinches out at a distance of ～380 km from the coast at a depth of ～250 m above the sea level.     

Investigation of the mechanism of the long-term evolution of the carbon cycle in the ecosystem of the Sevastopol bay

We analyze the components of the carbon system of the Sevastopol bay waters and the balance of main sediment-forming substances using the data of field investigations in 1998–2008. The interannual variations of total inorganic carbon and the equilibrium partial pressure of carbon dioxide in the bay water are noted. An increase in the flux of carbon dioxide into the bay and in the content of organic carbon in bottom sediments is revealed, and an explanation of this phenomenon is given. The priority accumulation of organic carbon in the sediments of the bay is established. We assess the interannual variation in the relative abundances of organic and inorganic carbon as an index of the carbon cycle stability.     

Contemporary state of the investigation of the influence of the discharge of rivers on the hydrologic structure of the Black Sea

We generalize and analyze the state of investigations of the influence of river waters on the hydrologic structure of the Black Sea. Specific features of the water, regime and hydrography of rivers flowing into the sea, data on the discharge of rivers, and intrayear and interyear variability of the discharge are presented. We discuss and analyze works studying the transformation of river waters, routes of desalinized sea waters, and their influence on the thermohaline structure and dynamic regime of the sea. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Modelling of the ecosystem of the Black-Sea shelf zone near the estuary of the Danube

We analyze the results of numerical calculations performed according to the three-dimensional interdisciplinary model of an ecological system of the Black-Sea shelf zone near the estuary of the Danube. The complete system of equations of hydrothermodynamics is solved together with transport equations of the advection-diffusion-reaction type used to describe the transformation of a substance (nitrogen) between the components of the characteristic vectors of the ecosystem: plankton, detritus, and biogenic elements (nitrates). We describe the distinctive features of the circumcontinental distribution of components obtained as a result of numerical experiments and present arguments for the conclusion that the ecosystem of the Danube estuary water area plays the role of a buffer zone between the press of the Danubian biogenic pollutions and the neighbouring areas of the shelf zone and open sea. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Dynamics of the ice cover and peculiarities of the ice transportation of the sediments at the tidal flats of the Kandalaksha Gulf of the White Sea

Ten years of semistationary studies of the interaction of the ice cover and the coastal relief of the Kandalakhsa Gulf in the White Sea allowed us to reveal the peculiarities of these processes in the warm and cold years and the mechanisms of the origination of ice forms, including ice tents, which govern the character of the tidal flats. Three dynamic fast ice zones are distinguished by their geomorphological location, morphology, and ice dynamics. The dependence of the mechanisms and volumes of the enrichment of the fast ice in the sediments on the coastal zone??s relief was established. At the coast of the Kindo Peninsula (Velikaya Salma Strait), the ice mostly contains fine-sandy sediments. Coarser sediments, including boulders, are occasional and frozen into the ice at the contact of the fast ice and the bottom. At the expense of the ice??s spreading by 4?C6 times in the warm years and 2?C4 times in the cold years, several thousand tons of sediments mostly from the tidal flat??s surface (100?C700 m³ from 1 km of coast in the wide tidal flats and <50 m³ on the steep coasts) are delivered to the water area.     

Modelling of the ecosystem on the shelf of the Republic of Guinea

Three mathematical models are considered: a two-dimensional model for calculating the concentration fields of the ecosystem components on the shelf of the Republic of Guinea, a pointwise model for the annual variation of the components, and a two predators-prey model. These models are used to study the effect of hydrodynamic conditions on the state of the shelf ecosystem and for research into the causes which distort the balance between marketable and unmarketable fish.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Evolution of the slope of the buried depression of the Black Sea

The first data on the temporal evolution of the slope of the buried depression of the Black Sea are obtained. The sharp change in the rate of the decrease in the slope steepness that occurred in the Late Miocene-Pliocene time reflects a reorientation of the vector of mutual movement and a related intensification of the collision between the Arabian and Eurasian lithospheric plates.     

The stages of the development of the basin of the Bransfield Strait

The study of the sedimentary body of the Bransfield Strait has made it possible to identify several sedimentary complexes, to construct the first electronic charts for the acoustic basement, and to establish four stages of the evolution of its floor, which updates the previous knowledge about the formation of the strait. At the first stage, there was an increase in tension stresses that were accompanied by the local splits of the continental crust at the periphery of the Antarctic Peninsula. At the second stage, a graben-like structure filled with the Lower stratigraphic complex was formed northward of the Antarctic Peninsula. At the third stage, the continuing processes of extension led to intensive explosive activity of the growing volcanic structures and filling of the graben with sediments of the Middle seismostratigraphic complex. The fourth stage, which has continued until recently, is characterized by quasi-linear localization of the major centers of volcanic activity in the band closer to the South-Shetland Islands and the formation of the Upper seismostratigraphic sedimentary complex. The evolution of the floor of the Bransfield Strait reflects the process of penetration of the American-Antarctic ridge to the continental lithosphere of the Antarctic Peninsula for the last million years.     

Relationship between the path of the Kuroshio in the south of Japan and the path of the Kuroshio Extension in the east

A relationship between paths of the Kuroshio and Kuroshio Extension (KE) is investigated, using the satellite-derived altimetry dataset of 1993–2008. When the Kuroshio takes the nearshore nonlarge meander path or typical large meander path and resultantly goes through the deeper channel (about 2500 m) of the Izu-Ogasawara Ridge, the KE path adopts a relatively stable state with the two quasi-stationary meanders. On the other hand, when the Kuroshio takes the offshore nonlarge meander path and then passes over the shallower part of the Ridge (about 1000 m), the KE path tends to be convoluted, i.e., an unstable state.     

Influence of the dynamics of currents on the hydrophysical structure of the waters and the vertical exchange in the active layer of the Black Sea

An analysis of the data of measurements of the fine structure and microstructure fluctuations of hydrophysical fields in the upper 200-m layer of the Black Sea carried out using CTD profilers and a Baklan free falling microstructure and turbulence profiler revealed the existence of a positive correlation between the intensity of the fine structure and microstructure fluctuations and the dynamics of the currents. On the other hand, the level of the fine structure and microstructure fluctuations reflects the rate of the vertical turbulent exchange. It was shown that, in the case of the absence of the Black Sea Rim Current (BSRC) jet or clearly manifested mesoscale eddy structures, the vertical turbulent exchange in the pycnocline is weak, while, in the opposite case, it is stronger. The results obtained support the supposition that the interbasin dynamics play an important role in the maintenance of the rate of small-scale mixing in the pycnocline and halocline and provide the vertical transport of dissolved oxygen from the cold intermediate layer into the deeper layers of the sea.