The fetch effect on aeolian sediment transport on a sandy beach: a case study from Magilligan Strand,Northern Ireland

Experiments were conducted on Magilligan Strand, Northern Ireland, to assess the influence of the fetch effect on aeolian sediment transport. During each experiment surface sediments were uniformly dry and unhindered by vegetation or debris. The leading edge of erodible material was well defined, with the limit of wave up‐rush demarcating the wet–dry boundary; the work was conducted during low tides. A number of electronic and integrating traps were utilised, with two ultrasonic anemometers used to measure wind direction and velocity at 1 Hz. The combination of 1^o direction data and trap locations resulted in a range of fetch distances, from 2 to 26 m. Data integrated over 15‐minute intervals (corresponding to the integrating trap data) revealed a distinct trend for all the experiments. An initial rapid increase in the transport rate occurred over a short distance (4–9 m). This maximum transport rate was maintained for a further 5–6 m before a steady decay in the flux followed, as fetch distance increased. A measured reduction in wind speed (6–8%) across the beach suggests a negative feedback mechanism may be responsible for the diminishing transport rate: the saltating grains induce energy dissipation, thus reducing the capability of the wind to maintain transport. For one experiment, the presence of compact sediment patches may also have contributed to the reduction of the transport rate. The decay trend calls into question the utility of the fetch effect as an important parameter in aeolian studies that seek to understand sediment budgets of the foredune‐beach zone. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A field experiment on the role of small scale wind gustiness in aeolian sand transport

Estimates of aeolian sand transport generally use an average wind speed to assess the wind energy. To determine if variation in small-scale wind gustiness (on the order of several seconds duration) has a significant effect on sand movement, detailed field measurements were made of wind speed and transport rate. Average wind speed and several gust parameters were derived from the wind data. The results indicate that small-scale gust information does not improve prediction of transport rates.     

The influence of tides, wind and waves on the net sand transport in the North Sea

Large-scale redistribution of sand by hydrodynamical processes in shelf seas is important for basin and coastal evolution on time scales of a thousand to tens of thousands of years. The influence of tides on the large-scale net sand-transport patterns in the North Sea has received much attention, but the influence of wind-driven flow and wind waves has hardly been investigated. Here, to establish the present-day situation and to develop a method that can also be used for palaeo-situations and forecasts for different sea levels, this influence is assessed for the present southern North Sea using a numerical flow model, a parametric wave model and a wave-averaged sand-transport formulation. Various forcing combinations are used to identify the dominant transport mechanisms: tides only, tides and wind, tides and waves, and combined tides, wind and waves. Wind forcing is applied in two ways to find an efficient, but still representative, method of incorporating this stochastic process: a statistical wind climatology and an observed time series. The results show that (i) the wind climatology yields a good approximation of the sand transport computed using the time series; (ii) wind-driven flow and waves only contribute significantly to the net sand transport by tides when acting together where tidal currents are small; and (iii) various combinations of forcings dominate the net sand transport in different regions of the southern North Sea: (a) tides dominate in the southern, middle and northwestern parts of the Southern Bight and in the region of The Wash; (b) tides, wind-driven flow and waves all are important in the northeastern part of the Southern Bight; and (c) wind-driven flow and waves dominate north of the Friesian Islands, in the German Bight and on the Dogger Bank. Qualitative comparison with observations shows good agreement.     

Near-bed sediment transport in a heavily modified coastal plain estuary

Numerous estuaries of the world have been strongly modified by human activities.These interferences can make great adjustments of not only sediment transport processes,but also the collective behavior of the estuary.This paper provides a typical case of a heavily modified coastal plain estuary of Sheyang on the China coast,where a sluice barrage was built in 1956 to stop the intrusions of storm surges and saline water.Four sets of instrumented tripods were simultaneously deployed along a cross-shore transect to continuously observe near-bed flow currents and sediment transport.The in-situ surveys lasted over a spring and neap tide cycle when a strong wind event occurred in the neap tide.Comparisons of flows and sediment transport between tide-dominated and wind-dominated conditions demonstrated the important role of episodic wind events in flows and sediment transport.The wind-induced currents,bottom stresses,and sediment transport rates were significantly greater when wind was present than corresponding quantities induced by the tides.The long-shore sediment transport induced by winds exceeds the cross-shore component,especially near the river mouth bar.These results indicate the noticeable importance of wave-dominated coastal processes in shaping topographic features.A regime shift of estuarine evolution under highly intense human forcing occurs from fluvial to marine processes.This finding suggests that the management strategy of the estuarine system should focus on the restoration of estuarine processes,rather than the present focus on inhibition of marine dynamics.     

The effects of surface moisture on aeolian sediment transport threshold and mass flux on a beach

This paper presents results from a study designed to explore the effects of beach surface moisture and fetch effects on the threshold of movement, intensity of sand transport by wind and mass flux. The experiment was carried out over a period of five weeks at Greenwich Dunes, Prince Edward Island, Canada in May and June 2002. Moisture content was measured with a Delta‐T moisture probe over a 50 m by 25 m grid established on the beach. Measurements of wind speed and direction were made with arrays of cup anemometers and a two‐dimensional sonic anemometer. Transport intensity was measured at a height of 2–4 cm above the bed using omnidirectional saltation probes which count the impact of saltating grains on a piezoelectric crystal. Anemometers and saltation probes were sampled at 1 Hz. Sand transport was measured with vertical integrating sand traps over periods of 10–20 minutes. Results show that where there is a considerable supply of dry sand the saltation system responds very rapidly (1–2 s) to fluctuations in wind speed, i.e. to wind gusts. Where sand supply from the surface is limited by moisture, mean transport rates are much lower and this reflects in both a reduction in the instantaneous transport rate and in a transport system that becomes increasingly intermittent. Threshold wind speed is significantly correlated with an increase in surface moisture content near the upwind end of the beach fetch, but the relationship is not significant at the downwind end where sediment transport is initiated primarily by saltation impact from upwind. Mass flux increases with increasing fetch length and the relationship is described best by a power function. Further work is necessary to develop a theoretical function to predict the increase in transport with fetch distance as well as the critical fetch distance. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The influence of wind forcing on across-shelf transport in the Florida Keys

Acoustic Doppler current profiles and current meter data are combined with wind observations to describe the transport of water leaving Florida Bay and moving onto the inner shelf on the Atlantic side of the Florida Keys. A 275-day study in the Long Key Channel reveals strong tidal exchanges, but the average ebb tide volume leaving Florida Bay is 19% greater than the average flood tide volume entering the bay. The long-term net outflow averages 472 m³ s⁻¹. Two studies in shelf waters describe the response to wind forcing during spring and summer months in 2004 and during fall and winter months in 2004–2005. During the spring–summer study, southeasterly winds have a distinct shoreward component, and a two-layer pattern appears. Surface layers move shoreward while near-bottom layers move seaward. During the winter study, the resultant wind direction is parallel to the Keys and to the local isobaths. The entire water column moves in a nearly downwind direction, and across-shelf transport is relatively small. During the summer wet season, Florida Bay water should be warmer, fresher, and thus less dense than Atlantic shelf waters. Ebbing bay water should move onto the shelf as a buoyant plume and be held close to the Keys by southeasterly winds. During the winter dry season, colder and saltier Florida Bay water should leave the tidal channels with relatively high density and be concentrated in the near-bottom layers. But little across-shelf flow occurs with northeasterly winds. The study suggests that seasonally changing wind forcing and hydrographic conditions serve to insulate the reef tract from the impact of low-quality bay water.     

Energetics prediction of frequency-dependent suspended sand transport rates on a macrotidal beach

The on–offshore (cross-shore) transport of sand on beaches is highly time-variable, which has made it difficult to model or predict. In this paper, simple energetics modelling is used to compare velocity moment predictions with field observations of suspended sand transport rates. Separate consideration is given to transport associated with the three main frequency-dependent cross-shore transport processes: that associated with the short (incident) waves, that due to the long (infragravity) waves, and transport associated with the mean flow. Direct comparison between the depth-averaged model predictions, and the in-situ point measurements was facilitated by making the first order assumption that the time-averaged suspension profile is exponential and the wave velocity profile is vertically uniform. An appropriate rippled bed roughness was used to provide the drag coefficient in the energetics model and the vertical length scale of the exponential suspension profile. Despite these simple assumptions, comparison of the velocity moment predictions with the field observations of suspended sand fluxes reveals that this approach has the capacity to predict transport magnitudes due to short wave, long wave, and mean flow components to within about one order of magnitude. However, owing to the limitations of the model, the transport direction of the short wave component could not, on occasion, be correctly determined, probably due to ‘reverse’ transport over ripples. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Small‐scale variability in surface moisture on a fine‐grained beach: implications for modeling aeolian transport

Small‐scale variations in surface moisture content were measured on a fine‐grained beach using a Delta‐T Theta probe. The resulting data set was used to examine the implications of small‐scale variability for estimating aeolian transport potential. Surface moisture measurements were collected on a 40 cm × 40 cm grid at 10 cm intervals, providing a total of 25 measurements for each grid data set. A total of 44 grid data sets were obtained from a representative set of beach sub‐environments. Measured moisture contents ranged from about 0% (dry) to 25% (saturated), by weight. The moisture content range within a grid data set was found to vary from less than 1% to almost 15%. The magnitude of within‐grid variability varied consistently with the mean moisture content of the grid sets, following an approximately normal distribution. Both very wet and very dry grid data sets exhibited little internal variability in moisture content, while intermediate moisture contents were associated with higher levels of variability. Thus, at intermediate moisture contents it was apparent that some portions of the beach surface could be dry enough to allow aeolian transport (i.e. moisture content is below the critical threshold), while adjacent portions are too wet for transport to occur. To examine the implications of this finding, cumulative distribution functions were calculated to model the relative proportions of beach surface area expected to be above or below specified threshold moisture levels (4%, 7%, and 14%). It was found that the implicit inclusion of small‐scale variability in surface moisture levels typically resulted in changes of less than 1% in the beach area available for transport, suggesting that this parameter can be ignored at larger spatial scales. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The influence of asymmetries in overlying stratification on near-bed turbulence and sediment suspension in a partially mixed estuary

Data collected from the York River estuary demonstrate the importance of asymmetries in stratification to the suspension and transport of fine sediment. Observations collected during two 24-h deployments reveal greater concentrations of total suspended solids during the flood phase of the tide despite nearly symmetric near-bed tidal current magnitude. In both cases, tidally averaged net up-estuary sediment transport near the bed was clearly observed despite the fact that tidally averaged residual near-bed currents were near zero. Tidal straining of the along-channel salinity gradient resulted in a stronger pycnocline lower in the water column during the ebb phase of the tide and appeared to limit sediment suspension. Indirect measurements suggest that the lower, more intense, pycnocline on the ebb acted as a barrier, limiting turbulent length scales and reducing eddy diffusivity well below the pycnocline, even though the lower water column was locally well mixed. In order to more conclusively link changes in stratification to properties of near-bed eddy viscosity and diffusivity, longer duration tripod and mooring data from an additional experiment are examined, that included direct measurement of turbulent velocities. These additional data demonstrate how slight increases in stratification can limit vertical mixing near the bed and impact the structure of the eddy viscosity below the pycnocline. We present evidence that the overlying pycnocline can remotely constrain the vertical turbulent length scale of the underlying flow, limiting sediment resuspension. As a result, the relatively small changes in stratification caused by tidal straining of the pycnocline allow sediment to be resuspended higher in the water column during the flood phase of the tide, resulting in preferential up-estuary transport of sediment.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann     

Lateral dynamics and associated transport of sediment in the upper reaches of a partially mixed estuary,Chesapeake Bay,USA

Data from time series of transects made over a tidal period across a section of the upper Chesapeake Bay, USA, reveal the influence of lateral dynamics on sediment transport in an area with a deep channel and broad extents of shallower flanks. Contributions to lateral momentum by rotation (Coriolis plus channel curvature), cross channel density gradients and cross channel surface slope were estimated, and the friction and acceleration terms needed to complete the balance were compared to patterns of observed lateral circulation. During ebb, net rotation effects were larger because of river velocity and reinforcement of Coriolis by curvature. During flood, stratification was greater because of landward advection of strong vertical density gradients. Together, the ebb intensified lateral circulation and flood intensified stratification focused sediment and sediment transport along the left side of the estuary (looking seaward). The tendency for greater stratification on flood and net sediment flux toward the left-hand shoal are contrary to more common models which, in the northern hemisphere, predict greater resuspension on flood and move sediment toward the right-hand shoal. These tidal asymmetries interact with the lateral circulation to focus net sediment flux on the left side of the estuary, and to produce net ebb directed sediment transport at the surface of the same order of magnitude as net flood directed sediment transport at the bottom.     

A numerical model for shore-normal sediment size variation on a macrotidal beach

This paper describes a computer simulation model which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling, wave height attenuation due to frictional losses and breaking, using linear theory up to the break point and a breaker decay model in the surf zone. Peak horizontal orbital velocities at the bed are calculated from Stokes second-order wave theory. The peak onshore and offshore velocities are used with the threshold expression of Komar and Miller (1975) to generate a spatial pattern of size variation of threshold grain diameter along a profile normal to the shore from deep water to the swash zone. The predicted grain size is used in an hydraulic interpretation of grain size distribution on the intertidal profile, based on the hydrodynamic variations over a tidal cycle on a macrotidal beach. The model is successful in predicting the broad pattern of increasing grain size in the onshore direction which has been observed in nature. Comparisons between measured and predicted grain size distributions indicate that the predictions of the model are better than those of previous models, but the model is more successful at predicting sediment size distributions than at predicting mean sizes on a beach profile.     

Modelling aeolian sand transport and morphological development in two beach nourishment areas

The aeolian sand transport model SAFE and the air flow model HILL were applied to evaluate cross‐shore changes at two nourished beaches and adjacent dunes and to identify the response of aeolian sand transport and morphology to several nourishment design parameters and fill characteristics. The main input of the model consisted of data on the sediment, tide and meteorological conditions, and of half‐yearly measured characteristics of topography, vegetation and sand fences. The cross‐shore profiles generated by SAFE–HILL were compared to measured cross‐shore profiles. The patterns of erosion and deposition, and the morphological development corresponded. In general, the rates of aeolian sand transport were overestimated. The impact of parameters that are related to beach nourishment (namely grain size, adaptation length and beach topography) on profile development was evaluated. Grain size affected the aeolian sand transport rate to the foredunes, and therefore the morphology. Adaptation length, which is a measure of the distance over which sediment transport adapts to a new equilibrium condition, affected the topography of the beach in particular. The topography of a beach nourishment had limited impact on both aeolian sand transport rate and morphology. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The influence of organic debris on channel morphology and bedload transport in a New Zealand forest stream

The behaviour and form of, and bedload sediment transport through, a 3.5 m wide forest stream have been monitored for nearly three years. Bedload transport is highly episodic and spatially variable, and is controlled less by water discharge than by sediment availability. Organic debris in the channel creates temporary base levels and sites at which coarse sediment may remain stored for long periods; collapse or disruption of log and debris jams makes sediment available for transport in only a small proportion of the runoff events that are actually competent to move the material. Even then, sediment travels only a short distance before being redeposited, frequently behind debris accumulations further downstream. Rates of sediment transport during a given runoff event can vary markedly over short distances along the stream, again depending on whether sediment was made available for transport by log jam collapse upstream. Organic debris is therefore a major constraint on the application of physical laws and theories to explaining sediment movement in, and the morphology of, this stream.     

Thresholds for morphological changes on an exposed sandy beach as a function of wave height

A sandy beach in the south of Portugal (Faro beach, Ria Formosa) was surveyed from the dune crest seaward to 15 m depth 20 times over a period of 26 months. Wave time‐series between surveys were analysed to obtain relationships between wave height and vertical profile variations and to define wave thresholds for important morphological changes. Results show that the active zone of the profile lies between 5 m above and 10·4 m below mean sea level, and that there are clear cross‐shore differences in the vertical variability of the profile. Based on the pattern of vertical variability, the profile was divided into four cross‐shore sectors: A (berm), 20–80 m from the profile origin; B (sub‐tidal terrace), 80–170 m; C (long‐shore bar), 170–360 m; and D, 360–700 m. The relationship between the modulus of the maximum vertical change in each sector and the 99th percentile of significant wave height between surveys was always significant. Calculated thresholds for significant wave height generating important morphological changes were 2·3 m in sector A, 3·2 m in sectors B and C, and 4·1 m in sector D. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A note on suspension transport in the beach gradient model

A previous model for nearshore orthogonal gradients (Hardisty, 1986) was based upon a simple bedload function and identified feedback relationships between the equilibrium seabed gradient and wave induced flow asymmetry. That model is developed here with the inclusion of suspended load transport, first order shoaling transformations, second order wave induced flows, and a measure of the sediment grain size. The results are compared with some of the general features of prototype geomorphologies.     

Consequences of a freshwater canal discharge on the benthic community and its habitat on an exposed sandy beach

This paper analyses the spatial and temporal effects of a freshwater discharge (Canal Andreoni) on the macroinfauna community and its habitat in a sandy beach of Uruguay. Bimonthly, we examined 17 environmental variables plus macroinfauna abundance, biomass, richness, evenness and diversity of three sites: Andreoni, at the canal mouth, Coronilla, at 1 km, and Barra, at 13 km from the mouth. Both univariate and multivariate techniques showed an increasing degree of perturbation towards the canal. This was reflected by abiotic and biotic differences between sites and by a consistent two-dimensional ordination of the samples. A clear seasonal pattern was found, specially accentuated at Coronilla, where the effects of the canal were stronger in winter and weaker in summer. Multivariate linking between macroinfauna and its habitat highlighted the role of salinity as explanatory variable of the observed trends.     

海陆风及沿海风速廓线在风电场风速预报中的应用

为了建立沿海风功率预报系统,本文探讨了中国沿海风电场风速预报问题,并利用数值模式RAMS对海陆风进行了模拟研究.发现海陆风发生时,海风和陆风阶段风速廓线存在较大差异,海风阶段风速的垂直切变明显小于陆风阶段.海陆风发生时,风速会呈现有规律的变化,即海风和陆风分别有两个时段：风速增加时段和风速减少时段.在为沿海风电场提供风速预报时,当模式预报到海陆风发生时,可以利用海陆风的这种特点,使用统计方法对预报出的风速进行有效的订正.并发现即使没有海陆风发生,当风向为海洋吹向陆地时,风速随高度的垂直切变同样小于陆地吹向海洋的时段.利用统计方法根据不同风向时风速廓线的特性,把数值模式计算高度上的预报结果,精确地插值到风机涡轮高度,会很大程度上减少风速预报的误差及风功率预报环节的误差.     

The effect of wind averaging time on wind erosivity estimation

The Wind Erosion Prediction System (WEPS) and Revised Wind Erosion Equation (RWEQ) are widely used for estimating wind‐induced soil erosion at a field scale. Wind is the principal erosion driver in the two models. Wind erosivity, which describes the capacity of wind to cause soil erosion, is defined as erosive wind power density (WPD) in WEPS, and wind value (W) in RWEQ. In this study, the daily average WPD (AWPD) and the daily average W (Wf) were chosen to investigate the effect of averaging time on wind erosivity estimation based on observed wind data. We compare the daily AWPD and Wf calculated from 1, 5, 10, 15, 30, and 60 minute average wind speed data. The results of comparisons indicate that averaging wind speed can significantly influence estimates of wind erosivity. Compared with the daily AWPD and Wf calculated from one minute average wind speed data, all daily AWPD and Wf values calculated from 5, 10, 15, 30, and 60 minute averaged wind speeds tend to be significantly lower than values calculated from one minute values. In general, longer averaging times tend to produce smaller values of daily AWPD or Wf, which may lead to an under‐estimation of wind erosion. Further studies are needed to extend and apply the findings obtained in this study to actual wind erosion predictions. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

On the effects of wind and tides on the hydrodynamics of a shallow mediterranean estuary

A study is made of the effect of wind and tides on the hydrodynamics of the shallow inner basins of mediterranean estuaries. The paper includes a case study of Harvey Estuary in southwestern Australia where salinity and temperature data exist for 11 years during the 1980s and 1990s when that estuary experienced massive annual blue-green algal blooms. An analysis is made of salt exchange through the channels that join estuarine basins of this class to either the ocean or, as in the case of Harvey Estuary, to another shallow estuarine basin. A detailed three-dimensional numerical model is also implemented for the basin of Harvey Estuary. It is concluded that exchange through the channel is dominated by the (mainly diurnal) tides, despite the general micro-tidal nature of this class of estuary, although the efficiency of this process is found to be controlled by the length of the channel. Wind set-up in the basin also produces channel exchange and for Harvey Estuary this is about 20% of the exchange due to tides. Baroclinic flow through the channel is also capable of producing significant exchange but this is suppressed by the tidal currents in the channel except immediately after riverflow. Salt transport along the basins of this class of estuary is mainly driven by the longitudinal density gradient and the strength of this process is controlled by vertical mixing from the wind. However, there is also significant salt transport from wind-induced advection, the effect of which changes seasonally with the direction of the salt gradient.     

Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, Truc Vert beach on October 2001

A field experiment conducted on a sandy barred beach, situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coastline, allowed us to investigate the impact of the intertidal bar on the wave-energy dissipation on the beach face in presence of a high-energy long-incoming swell (significant wave height of about 1.7 to 3.0 m in 56 m water depth and significant wave period about 12 s). Data were collected along three parallel cross-shore transects deployed along an intertidal ridge and runnel system. Wave heights in the inner surf zone are depth-limited, consistent with previous works, and the wave-energy dissipation in the inner surf zone appears to be relatively independent of the offshore energy level. On the other hand, the presence of the bar seems to scatter the data. In models of surf-zone hydrodynamics, wave-energy dissipation is often parameterized in terms of , the ratio of the sea-swell significant wave height to the local mean water depth. The observed values of are not constant along a cross-shore transect, and increase onshore. Furthermore, the observed values observed onshore the intertidal bar are higher than those observed outside the influence of the intertidal bar, and this cannot be fully explained by the different local beach slope.Responsible Editor: Iris Grabemann