Laboratory investigation of the mechanism of the periodic eddy formation behind capes in a coastal sea

The observations carried out in the Caucasian sector of the Black Sea have shown that, under certain conditions, the Rim Current detaches from the coast behind Cape Idocopas. In these cases, an anticyclonic eddy is formed between the detached Rim Current and the coast. Sometimes, the eddy grows in size until it is captured by the flow and goes downstream. After that, a next eddy is formed nearly at the same place, etc. The conditions of the periodic eddy formation behind a cape are revealed by means of laboratory modeling. The laboratory results are compared with the data of field observations in the Black Sea.     

Dynamics of a mesoscale eddy off Cape Ann, Massachusetts in May 2005

Observations and numerical modeling indicate that a mesoscale anti-cyclonic eddy formed south of Cape Ann at the northern entrance of Massachusetts Bay (MB) during May 2005, when large river discharges in the western Gulf of Maine and two strong Nor'easters passing through the regions led to an unprecedented toxic Alexandrium fundyense bloom (red tide). Both model results and field measurements suggest that the western Maine Coastal Current separated from Cape Ann around May 7–8, and the eddy formed on around May 10. The eddy was trapped at the formation location for about a week before detaching from the coastline and moving slowly southward on May 17. Both model results and theoretical analysis suggest that the separation of the coastal current from the coast and subsequent eddy formation were initiated at the subsurface by an adverse pressure gradient between Cape Ann and MB due to the higher sea level set up by onshore Ekman transport and higher density in downstream MB. After the formation, the eddy was maintained by the input of vorticity transported by the coastal current from the north, and local vorticity generation around the cape by the horizontal gradients of wind-driven currents, bottom stress, and water density induced by the Merrimack River plume. Observations and model results indicate that the anti-cyclonic eddy significantly changed the pathway of nutrient and biota transport into the coastal areas and enhanced phytoplankton including Alexandrium abundances around the perimeter of the eddy and in the western coast of MB.     

The nearshore current along a high-rainfall,trade-wind coast-Nicaragua

Runoff from abundant rainfall on the watersheds along the east coast of Nicaragua results in a well-defined nearshore current, extending 20–40 km out from the coast. Important terms in the controlling dynamical balance are the Coriolis forces, and eddy frictional forces. Calculations of the diabathic surface slope 0(10^?5) show a smooth setup of 4–5 cm from the outer edge of the current to the shoreline. A longshore surface slope of 0(10^?8) appears to be set up by the longshore wind stress, and further computations allow an estimate of ～ 6 gr cm^?1 s^?1 for the dynamic eddy viscosity. An analytical expression including diabathic surface slope and density gradient, parabathic surface slope, wind stress, and quadratic bottom friction reproduces the salient observed features of the nearshore current. These include the pronounced maximum in the parabathic (along-shelf) current about 10 km off the coast, a complex diabathic velocity structure, and a shelf countercurrent just seaward of the outer edge. Further calculations suggest that the dominant driving arises from the freshwater-induced density gradients, accounting for upward of 80% of the flow velocity. As suggested by Royer (1982), the prevailing trade wind exerts an onshore wind stress that serves the important role of maintaining the integrity of the density gradients via the convergence of a surface Ekman layer toward the coast.     

Impact of a cyclonic eddy on phytoplankton community structure and photosynthetic competency in the subtropical North Pacific Ocean

A synoptic spatial examination of the eddy Haulani (17–20 November 2000) revealed a structure typical of Hawaiian cyclonic eddies with divergent surface flow forcing the upward displacement of deep waters. Hydrographic surveys revealed that surface water in the eddy center was ca. 3.5°C cooler, 0.5 saltier, and 1.4 kg m⁻³ denser than surface waters outside the eddy. Vertically integrated concentrations of nitrate+nitrite, phosphate and silicate were enhanced over out-eddy values by about 2-fold, and nitrate+nitrite concentrations were ca. 8× greater within the euphotic zone inside the eddy than outside. Si:N ratios were lower within the upper mixed layer of the eddy, indicating an enhanced Si uptake relative to nitrate+nitrite. Chlorophyll a concentrations were higher within the eddy compared to control stations outside, when integrated over the upper 150 m, but were not significantly different when integrated over the depth of the euphotic zone. Photosynthetic competency, assessed using fast repetition-rate fluorometry, varied with the doming of the isopycnals and the supply of macro-nutrients to the euphotic zone. The physical and chemical environment of the eddy selected for the accumulation of larger phytoplankton species. Photosynthetic bacteria (Prochlorococcus and Synechococcus) and small (<3 μm diameter) photosynthetic eukaryotes were 3.6-fold more numerically abundant outside the eddy as compared to inside. Large photosynthetic eukaryotes (>3 μm diameter) were more abundant inside the eddy than outside. Diatoms of the genera Rhizosolenia and Hemiaulus outside the eddy contained diazotrophic endosymbiontic cyanobacteria, but these endosymbionts were absent from the cells of these species inside the eddy. The increase in cell numbers of large photosynthetic eukaryotes with hard silica or calcite cell walls is likely to have a profound impact on the proportion of the organic carbon production that is exported to deep water by sinking of senescent cells and cells grazed by herbivorous zooplankton and repackaged as large fecal pellets.     

Flow of winter-transformed Pacific water into the Western Arctic

The dynamics of the flow of dense water through Barrow Canyon is investigated using data from a hydrographic survey in summer 2002. The focus is on the winter-transformed Bering water—the highest volumetric mode of winter water in the Chukchi Sea—which drains northward through the canyon in spring and summer. The transport of this water mass during the time of the survey was 0.2–0.3 Sv. As the layer flowed from the head of the canyon to the mouth, it sank, decelerated, and stretched. Strong cyclonic relative vorticity was generated on the seaward side of the jet, which compensated for the stretching. This adjustment was incomplete, however, in that it did not extend across the entire current, possibly because of internal mixing due to shear instabilities. The resulting vorticity structure of the flow at the canyon mouth was conducive for baroclinic instability and eddy formation. Multiple eddies of winter-transformed Bering water were observed along the Chukchi–Beaufort shelfbreak. Those to the west of Barrow Canyon were in the process of being spawned by the eastward-flowing shelfbreak current emanating from Herald Canyon, while the single eddy observed to the east originated from the Barrow Canyon outflow. It is argued that such an eddy formation is a major source of the ubiquitous cold-core anti-cyclones observed historically throughout the Canada Basin. Implications for the ventilation of the upper halocline of the Western Arctic are discussed.     

Examination of the influence of several factors on longshore current computation with random waves

Influence of various factors affecting the longshore currents induced by obliquely incident random waves is examined through numerical calculation. Seven numerical models for random wave breaking process are found to yield large differences in the wave heights in the surf zone and longshore current velocities. The turbulent eddy viscosity formulation by Larson and Kraus [Larson, M. and Kraus, N.C. (1991): Numerical model of longshore current for bar and trough beaches, J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Eng., ASCE, 117 (4), pp. 326-347.] functions almost equal to that by Battjes [Battjes, J.A. (1975): Modeling of turbulence in the surf zone, Proc. Symp. Modeling Techniques, pp. 1050–1061.], but the formulation by Longuet-Higgins [Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1970): Longshore current generated by obliquely incident sea waves, 1 and 2, J. Geophys. Res., 75 (33), pp. 6779–6801.] produces excessive diffusion of longshore currents into the offshore zone. The generation and decay process of the surface roller is indispensable in the longshore current analysis. The random wave transformation model called PEGBIS (Parabolic Equation with Gradational Breaker Index for Spectral waves) by Goda [Goda, Y. (2004): A 2-D random wave transformation model with gradational breaker index, Coastal Engineering Journal, JSCE and World Scientific, 46 (1), pp. 1–38.] produced good agreement with several laboratory and field data of longshore currents.     

The cold-core eddy and strong upwelling off the coast of New South Wales in early 2007

During the Austral summer of 2006-07 a series of extreme oceanic events occurred in the Tasman Sea. Following a series of strong wind-driven upwelling events, an intense cold-core eddy developed off Sydney, Australia. A data-assimilating, eddy-resolving ocean model is used to create a three-dimensional time-varying reanalysis of these events. The reanalysis indicates that the cold anomalies associated with the upwellings were in excess of −5 °C near the coast, where sea level decreased by as much as 0.2 m. The reanalysed three-dimensional structure of the cold-core eddy shows the eddy "leaning" to the west-north-west, in towards the continental shelf. The diameter of the eddy is about 100 km and the sea-level anomaly at the eddy centre peaks at around −1 m, with an associated sub-surface temperature anomaly in excess of −8 °C at 200 m depth, corresponding to an upward isotherm excursion of 600 m. The circulation around the cyclonic eddy is ageostrophic, with upwelling in the southern sector of the eddy (where flow is onshore and climbing the continental slope) and downwelling in the northern sector (where flow is descending off the slope). Three-dimensional trajectories of water parcels around the eddy involve 50-100-m vertical excursions. Based on the reanalysed circulation and composite satellite images of Chlorophyll-a, we hypothesise that the circulation around the eddy led to significant nutrient enrichment in the euphotic zone around the perimeter of the eddy.     

Fluorescent sands for measurements of longshore transport rates: a case study from Praia de Faro in southern Portugal

 A field experiment was carried out on a mesotidal reflective beach to relate longshore sand transport rates to wave measurements in medium-energy conditions (H _rms =0.6 m; T _m =6.5 sec; α=20°). Dispersion of fluorescent sand tracers was analyzed using the spatial integration method (SIM). The measured sand transport rate was three times larger than the prediction computed using the longshore wave power approach, while the K factor was determined empirically as 2.32. The study concluded that there is a need to calibrate bulk longshore transport predictors before applying them to steep gradient slopes under plunging waves. Received: 16 May 1997 / Revision received: 20 November 1997     

Longshore currents of regular waves on different beaches

The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.     

Low-temperature incubation of walleye pollock (Theragra chalcogramma) eggs from the southeast Bering Sea shelf and Shelikof Strait, Gulf of Alaska

To determine the effect of low water temperature on development, walleye pollock (Theragra chalcogramma) eggs from the Bering Sea were reared at −0.6°C, 0.4°C, 2.0°C, and 3.8°C. One group of eggs was reared at 3.9°C under a diel light cycle (14 h light, 10 h dark) to observe the effect of light on development and hatching. Development was normal for all temperatures except −0.6°C; abnormal development of the tail and lack of development of eyes occurred in some embryos. Time to 50% hatch was 820, 620, and 424 h at 0.4°C, 2.0°C, and 3.8°C. Eggs incubated in diel light at 3.9°C developed at the same rate as eggs incubated in constant dark at 3.8°C, but required an additional 72 h to reach 50% hatch. A piece-wise regression model was generated to predict egg age for incubation temperatures of −0.6°C to 3.8°C. For temperatures recorded in the southeastern Bering Sea 1995–1998, the model predicted incubation periods for walleye pollock eggs that varied by 13 days between the warmest and coldest years.Walleye pollock eggs from Shelikof Strait, Alaska, were incubated at 0.2°C, 1.8°C, and 2.8°C. Development was normal for all temperatures. A piece-wise regression model (as above) was generated for incubation temperatures 0.2–2.8°C. When the regression models were compared, Bering Sea eggs (1.4–1.7 mm in diameter), required more time for development prior to hatch than Shelikof Strait eggs (1.2–1.3 mm in diameter) at 1.8°C and 2.8°C. However, for temperatures 0.2–2.0°C, Bering Sea walleye pollock began hatching earlier and at a developmentally younger age than Shelikof Strait walleye pollock.     

Longshore Currents of Random Waves on Different Plane Beaches

1 .IntroductionWhenwavespropagateobliquelytotheshorelineandbreak ,ameancurrentisgeneratedflowingparalleltothecoast.Thegenerationoflongshorecurrentscanbeexplainedasfollows .Withbreakingwaveheightdecreasing ,themomentumofwavemotionwillchangecorrespondingly .Accordingtothemomentumconservationtheory ,thechangesofthemomentumwillbeaccompaniedwithadditionalforcesactingonfluid .Longuet Higgins ( 1 970 )usedtheconceptofradiationstresstodescribetheaboveadditionalforceactingonfluidduetothechangeofwavemo…     

Silver in the subarctic northeast Pacific Ocean: Explaining the basin scale distribution of silver

Five vertical profiles of silver (Ag) in the subarctic northeast Pacific are presented. Dissolved (< 0.2 μm) Ag concentrations within the surface mixed layer range from 6–25 pM, with the highest observed values at the most coastal site. Elevated Ag concentrations at this station are most likely attributable to the estuarine circulation in the Juan de Fuca Strait. One open-ocean station (P20) exhibited a strong surface Ag maximum. The station was located at the edge of a Haida eddy which raises the possibility that such eddies transport Ag seaward from the coastal zone. Ag concentrations in the deep waters ranged from 60–80 pM. These measurements are consistent with other recent Ag data collected in the Pacific. Ag profiles throughout the Pacific Ocean yield a strong positive correlation between Ag concentration and dissolved silicic acid concentration. However, Ag is depleted relative to silicic acid at intermediate depths where dissolved O₂ concentrations are low, implying a possible removal of Ag from oxygen-depleted waters by scavenging and/or precipitation.     

Sailfish (Istiophorus platypterus) spawning and larval environment in a Florida Current frontal eddy

Fronts and eddies are widely hypothesized to be critical spawning habitat for large pelagic fishes, due to increased larval and/or adult feeding opportunities at these features. We examined sailfish (Istiophorus platypterus) spawning around a cyclonic, submesoscale (∼13 × 7 km) Florida Current frontal eddy. The temporal progression of eddy dynamics over a 65 h period was determined using ocean color satellite imagery, continuous surface measurements along the cruise track, and non-linear least-squares fitting of the positions of three drifters deployed within the eddy. A peak in larval sailfish densities (n = 2435, stations = 49), composed primarily of yolk-sac and first-feeding larvae, occurred at the eddy frontal zone. A majority of these larvae were estimated to have been spawned during the formation of the eddy. A comparison between the distribution of similar-age sailfish and scombrid larvae indicated that the peak in larval sailfish density likely resulted from spawning directly at the front, rather than transport by convergent flow. The first-feeding prey items of larval sailfish (Farranula and Corycaeus copepods) were most abundant at the frontal zone and to a lesser extent inside the eddy. Egg distributions were used to indirectly assess the distribution of adult sailfish prey items. Euthynnus alleteratus and Auxis spp. eggs were in highest abundance outside the eddy, while the eggs of small carangids were in highest abundance at the eddy frontal zone. Overall, this study indicates that sailfish spawn at small-scale oceanographic features that provide a favorable feeding environment for their larvae and potentially also for the adults.     

Numerical study on the eddy–mean flow interaction between a cyclonic eddy and Kuroshio

A three-dimensional primitive equations ocean model (POM) is employed to study the momentum and energy balance of a moving cyclonic eddy (CE) during eddy–mean flow interaction. The CE generated by an idealized typhoon forms to the east of the Philippine islands. A momentum balance analysis shows that the dynamics of the CE are generally dominated by the geostrophic current throughout the life cycle of the CE. An energy analysis suggests that the eddy kinetic energy (EKE) and the eddy potential energy (EPE) decay rapidly after generation. The maximum EPE initially appears at the surface of the eddy center and gradually appears in the subsurface layer. The largest baroclinic instability (BCI) initially occurs at the surface. For a CE moving along a trajectory, the conversion from mean potential energy (MPE) to the EPE is positive (negative) in the front (rear) part of the trajectory, and then the eddy transfers its EPE forward along its trajectory by means of the front (rear) part of the eddy obtaining (losing) EPE from (to) the mean flow. During the interaction stage, the northward flowing Kuroshio interacts with the southward flow on the western side of the eddy and the inverse velocity shear between the Kuroshio and the eddy causes the EKE to gradually develop east–west asymmetry. The largest barotropic instability (BTI) is found in the interaction zone. Advection term, pressure work, and friction term play the dominating role in eddy decay in the eddy zone, while BTI only dominates in the interaction zone.     

Establishing uniform longshore currents in a large-scale sediment transport facility

A large-scale laboratory facility for conducting research on surf-zone sediment transport processes has been constructed at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Successful execution of sediment transport experiments, which attempt to replicate some of the important coastal processes found on long straight beaches, requires a method for establishing the proper longshore current. An active pumping and recirculation system comprised of 20 independent pumps and pipelines is used to control the cross-shore distribution of the mean longshore current. Pumping rates are adjusted in an iterative manner to converge toward the proper settings, based on measurements along the beach. Two recirculation criteria proposed by Visser [Coastal Eng. 15 (1991) 563] were also used, and they provided additional evidence that the proper total longshore flow rate in the surf zone was obtained. The success of the external recirculation system and its operational procedure, and the degree of longshore uniformity achieved along the beach, are the subjects of this paper. To evaluate the performance of the recirculation system, and as a precursor to sediment transport experiments, two comprehensive test series were conducted on a concrete beach with straight and parallel contours (1:30 slope), one using regular waves and the other using irregular waves. In the regular wave case, the wave period was 2.5 s and the average wave height at breaking was approximately 0.25 m. In the irregular wave case, the peak wave period was 2.5 s and the significant breaking wave height was approximately 0.21 m. The longshore current recirculation system proved to be very effective in establishing uniform mean longshore currents along the beach in both cases. This facility and the data presented here are unique for the following reasons: (1) the high cross-shore resolution of the recirculation system and the ease with which changes can be made to the longshore current distribution, (2) the degree of longshore uniformity achieved as a percentage of the length of the basin (even near the downdrift boundary), (3) the scale of the wave conditions generated, and (4) the relatively gentle beach slope used in the experiments (compared to previous laboratory studies of the longshore current). Measured data are provided in an appendix for use in theoretical studies and numerical model development and validation.     

A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation: Application to Fire Island Inlet (USA) and Badreveln Spit (Sweden)

A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation adjacent to an inlet (of arbitrary width), supplied by sediment coming from longshore sediment transport, was developed based on the spit growth model proposed by Kraus (1999). The fundamental governing equation is the conservation equation for sand, where the width of the spit is assumed constant during growth. The portion of the longshore sediment transport feeding the spit has been estimated based on the ratio between the depth of the inlet channel and the depth of active longshore transport. Sediment transport from the channel due to the inlet flow, as well as other sinks of sand (e.g., dredging), are taken into account. Measured data on spit elongation at Fire Island Inlet, United States, and at Badreveln Spit, Sweden, were used to validate the model. The simulated results agree well with the measured data at both study sites, where spit growth at Fire Island was restricted by the inlet flow and the growth at Badreveln Spit was unrestricted. The model calculation for Fire Island Inlet indicates that the dredging to maintain channel navigation is the major reason for the stable period observed from 1954 to 1994 at the Fire Island barrier. The average annual net longshore transport rate at the eastern side of the Fire Island inlet obtained in this study was about 220,000 m³/yr, of which approximately 165,000 m³/yr (75% of the net longshore transport) is deposited in the inlet feeding the spit growth, whereas the remaining portion (25%) is bypassed downdrift through the ebb shoal complex.     

Source rock characteristics and hydrocarbon generation modelling of Upper Cretaceous Mukalla Formation in the Jiza-Qamar Basin,Eastern Yemen

The Upper Cretaceous Mukalla coals and other organic-rich sediments which are widely exposed in the Jiza-Qamar Basin and believed to be a major source rocks, were analysed using organic geochemistry and petrology. The total organic carbon (TOC) contents of the Mukalla source rocks range from 0.72 to 79.90% with an average TOC value of 21.50%. The coals and coaly shale sediments are relatively higher in organic richness, consistent with source rocks generative potential. The samples analysed have vitrinite reflectance in the range of 0.84–1.10 %Ro and pyrolysis T_max in the range of 432–454 °C indicate that the Mukalla source rocks contain mature to late mature organic matter. Good oil-generating potential is anticipated from the coals and coaly shale sediments with high hydrogen indices (250–449 mg HC/g TOC). This is supported by their significant amounts of oil-liptinite macerals are present in these coals and coaly shale sediments and Py-GC (S₂) pyrograms with n-alkane/alkene doublets extending beyond nC₃₀. The shales are dominated by Type III kerogen (HI < 200 mg HC/g TOC), and are thus considered to be gas-prone.One-dimensional basin modelling was performed to analysis the hydrocarbon generation and expulsion history of the Mukalla source rocks in the Jiza-Qamar Basin based on the reconstruction of the burial/thermal maturity histories in order to improve our understanding of the of hydrocarbon generation potential of the Mukalla source rocks. Calibration of the model with measured vitrinite reflectance (Ro) and borehole temperature data indicates that the present-day heat flow in the Jiza-Qamar Basin varies from 45.0 mW/m² to 70.0 mW/m² and the paleo-heat flow increased from 80 Ma to 25 Ma, reached a peak heat-flow values of approximately 70.0 mW/m² at 25 Ma and then decreased exponentially from 25 Ma to present-day. The peak paleo-heat flow is explained by the Gulf of Aden and Red Sea Tertiary rifting during Oligocene-Middle Miocene, which has a considerable influence on the thermal maturity of the Mukalla source rocks. The source rocks of the Mukalla Formation are presently in a stage of oil and condensate generation with maturity from 0.50% to 1.10% Ro. Oil generation (0.5% Ro) in the Mukalla source rocks began from about 61 Ma to 54 Ma and the peak hydrocarbon generation (1.0% Ro) occurred approximately from 25 Ma to 20 Ma. The modelled hydrocarbon expulsion evolution suggested that the timing of hydrocarbon expulsion from the Mukalla source rocks began from 15 Ma to present-day.     

Formation of beach cusps in a wave tank

Beach cusps with a longshore spacing of 20 to 150 cm have been built by the continuous action of incident waves on a steep laboratory beach floor covered uniformly with a thin bed of glass beads. Breaking of incident waves was observed to induce vortices on the bed by interacting with swash motion along the beach face. Beach cusps formed when the value of a dimensionless parameter H_b/sgT_i² became smaller than 0.042; H_b is the breaking height of the incident waves, T_i their period, s the beach slope and g the acceleration due to gravity. This critical value occurred at a nearly central part of the generation region 0.003 < H_b/sgT_i² < 0.068 for plunging breakers presented by Galvin (1968). Breaking-wave-induced vortices rather than breaker types controlled the movement of bed material in the nearshore zone. Most of the measured spacings of beach cusps, including previous observations, were in good agreement with half a wavelength of the zero-mode subharmonic edge wave, which is generated on the beach by the refraction of incident waves and has twice the period of the waves. The role of edge waves at each stage of cusp formation still remains as an important problem to be clarified.     

Boussinesq modelling of transient rip currents

The flow on a plane beach with a random, directionally spread wave field was simulated with a Boussinesq model. The random wave spectra were directionally symmetric with their central direction perpendicular to the beach, so no constant longshore current was generated. Variable wave-averaged currents were generated because of the spatially variable wave field, and sometimes formed offshore directed rip currents that appear in variable longshore locations. The rip currents are associated with a vortex pair which is generated within the surfzone and subsequently propagates offshore. Analysis of the vorticity balance show that the main vorticity input occurs within the inner surfzone. Three different beach slopes and four different wave spectra are simulated. The frequency, duration, and intensity of the transient rips depend on both the beach slope and the incident wave spectra. The results have important engineering implications for the transport of material in the nearshore zone, in particular on longshore uniform beaches.