Numerical modelling of the propagation of tsunami waves in the crimean peninsula shelf zone

The paper analyses the effect of non-linearity and bottom friction on propagation of tsunami-type surface waves from the abyssal part of the Black Sea towards the shelf zone. The study relies, on numerical solution of unidimensional non-linear equations for long waves, using the finite-difference technique. Numerical experiments have been conducted for the bottom profile continental slope and shelf, with the full wave reflection being prescribed at a 10-m depth contour. It has been shown that the major role in transforming solitary waves belongs to non-linear topographic factors rather than to dissipation. The reflected wave has been found to be non-linearly distorted, and wave heights in the Black Sea coastal zone have been found to increase by many times. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

NWF: Propagation of Tsunami and its Interaction with Continental Shelf and Vertical Wall

In this article, tsunamis represented as solitary waves was simulated using the fully nonlinear free surface waves based on Finite Element method developed by Sriram et al. (2006). The split up of solitary wave while it propagates over the uneven bottom topography is successfully established. Wave transmission and reflection over a vertical step introduced in the bottom topography is in good agreement with the experimental results from Seabra-Santos et al. (1987). The wave transformation over a continental shelf with different smooth slopes reveals that the solitary wave reflection increases while the continental slope varies from flat to steep. The interaction of the solitary wave with a vertical wall for different wave steepness has been analysed. The reflected shape of the profile is in good agreement with the observation made by Fenton and Rienecker (1982) and an increase in wave celerity is observed.     

Breaking solitary wave evolution over a porous underwater step

Solitary wave evolution over a shelf including porous damping is investigated using Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations. Porous media induced damping is determined based on empirical formulations for relevant parameters, and numerical results are compared with experimental information available in the literature. The aim of this work is to investigate the effect of wave damping on soliton disintegration and evolution along the step for both breaking and non-breaking solitary waves. The influence of several parameters such as geometrical configuration (step height and still water level), porous media properties (porosity and nominal diameter) or solitary wave characteristics (wave height) is analyzed. Numerical simulations show the porous bed induced wave damping is able to modify wave evolution along the step. Step height is observed as a relevant parameter to influence wave evolution. Depth ratio upstream and downstream of the edge appears to be the more relevant parameter in the transmission and reflection coefficients than porosity or the ratio of wave height–water depth. Porous step also modifies the fission and the solitary wave disintegration process although the number of solitons is observed to be the same in both porous and impermeable steps. In the absence of breaking, porous bed triggers a faster fission of the incident wave into a second and a third soliton, and the leading and the second soliton reduces their amplitude while propagating. This decrement is observed to increase with porosity. Moreover, the second soliton is released before on an impermeable step. Breaking process is observed to dominate over the wave dissipation at the porous bottom. Fission is first produced on a porous bed revealing a clear influence of the bottom characteristics on the soliton generation. The amplitude of the second and third solitons is very similar in both impermeable and porous steps but they evolved differently due to the effect of bed damping.     

基于遥感与现场观测数据的南海北部内波传播速度

南海北部是全球海洋中内波最为活跃、生成和演变机制较为复杂的海域,本文利用多源卫星遥感数据(MODIS、GF-1、ENVISAT ASAR、RADARSAT-2)和现场观测数据开展了南海北部内波传播速度的研究。通过匹配捕获同一条内波的相邻两幅遥感图像,由内波的空间位移和时间间隔反演传播速度,并以0.5°×0.5°网格给出了南海北部内波传播速度的分布图。研究结果表明,内波传播速度受背景流场、水体层结和底地形变化等多因素影响,特别是水深。在南海北部由东至西、由南至北方向,内波传播速度逐渐递减。深海区内波传播速度最大,可达3m/s以上;内波在向西大陆架传播过程中,随着水深变浅速度逐渐减慢,传播速度为1—2m/s;大陆架浅海的内波传播速度较小,仅为零点几米每秒。同时,利用Kd V方程反演了内波传播速度理论值,对遥感数据提取的内波传播速度进行了精度验证,结果较为一致。     

Numerical investigation of the influence of various factors on the propagation and transformation of solitary waves in the sea

For various stratifications and different types of bottom patterns we study the transformations of solitary perturbations of density appearing in the depth of the sea. In the two-dimensional case, under the assumption that the average dynamic characteristics weakly vary in time as compared with the wave characteristics, we deduce the equations for mean currents and waves taking into account vertical and horizontal viscosity and the diffusion of density. Numerical examples show that the stratification, bottom topography, nonlinearity, mean currents, and dissipation strongly affect both the process of splitting of a solitary wave into wave trains and their amplitude and length. The wave currents exhibit the oscillatory (train-like) character. It is emphasized that, in the case of propagation of solitary perturbations of density with dissipation, it is also important to take into account the combined influence of nonlinearity, currents, bottom topography, and stratification. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Propagation of a solitary wave over rigid porous beds

The unsteady two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and Navier–Stokes type model equations for porous flows were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of a solitary wave over porous beds. The free surface boundary conditions and the interfacial boundary conditions between the water region and the porous bed are in complete form. The incoming waves were generated using a piston type wavemaker set up in the computational domain. Accuracy of the numerical model was verified by comparing the numerical results with the theoretical solutions. The main characteristics of the flow fields in both the water region and the porous bed were discussed by specifying the velocity fields. Behaviors of boundary layer flows in both fluid and porous bed regions were also revealed. Effects of different parameters on the wave height attenuation were studied and discussed. The results of this numerical model indicate that for the investigated incident wave as the ratio of the porous bed depth to the fluid depth exceeds 10, any further increase of the porous bed depth has no effect on wave height attenuation.     

南海北部内孤立波数学模型

在二层内潮数学模型的基础上,考虑非静力平衡扰动压力的影响,导出潮频内孤立波产生、传播的数学模型。该模型不受小地形假设的限制,并适用于南海。应用该模型能解释说明产生以下现象的物理机制：潮流流过巴坦-萨布坦海脊时,在一定海洋环境条件下,通过潮流与起伏的底地形相互作用可激发产生潮频内孤立波,并西传至东沙群岛附近的海域。     

Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves Cause a Force and a Torque on the Bottom

Freely propagating surface gravity waves are observed to slow down and to stop at a beach when the bottom has a relatively gentle upward slope toward the shore and the frequency range of the waves covers the most energetic wind waves (sea and swell). Essentially no wave reflection can be seen and the measured reflected energy is very small compared to that transmitted shoreward. One consequence of this is that the flux of the wave’s linear momentum decreases in the direction of wave propagation, which is equivalent to a time rate of change of the momentum. It takes a force to cause the time rate of change of the momentum. Therefore, the bottom exerts a force on the waves in order to decrease the momentum flux. By Newton’s third law (action equals reaction) the waves then impart an equal but opposite force to the bottom. In shallow (but finite) water depths the wave force per unit bottom area is calculated, for normal angle of incidence to the beach, to be directly proportional to the square of the wave amplitude and to the bottom slope and inversely proportional to the mean depth; it is independent of the wave frequency. Constants of proportionality are: 1/4, the fluid density and the acceleration of gravity. Swell attenuation near coasts and some characteristics of sand movement in the near-shore region are not inconsistent with the algebraic structure of the wave force formula. Since the force has a depth variation which is significantly faster than that of the dimensions of the particle orbits in the vertical direction, the bottom induces a torque on the fluid particles that decreases the angular momentum flux of the waves. By an extension of Newton’s third law, the waves also exert an equal but opposite torque on the bottom. And because the bottom force on the waves exists over a horizontal distance, it does work on the waves and decreases their energy flux. Thus, theoretically, the fluxes of energy, angular and linear momentum are not conserved for shoaling surface gravity waves. Mass flux, associated with the Stokes drift, is assumed to be conserved, and the wave frequency is constant for a steady medium.     

Three-dimensional numerical simulation on the interaction of solitary waves and porous breakwaters

A three-dimensional (3D) large-eddy-simulation model with macroscopic model equations of porous flow is proposed to investigate solitary waves interacting with permeable breakwaters. The major objective of this paper is twofold. First, we seek to evaluate the present model through the comparison with available simulated and measured data in the literature. The second aim, given the 3D nature of flow past a permeable breakwater, the variations of permeable breakwater modeled on both macroscopic and microscopic scales are examined. First validation is carried out with experiments on solitary wave propagation in a 3D wave basin and then runup on a vertical permeable breakwater with a gap in the lateral direction. A satisfactory agreement on the free surface elevation time series is obtained between model and measured results. Second, we replicate the experiments on a solitary wave interaction with a submerged permeable breakwater in a two-dimensional narrow wave flume. The porous medium is composed of spheres with a uniform size and arranged in a non-staggered regular pattern such that the porous medium can thus be modeled on macroscopic and microscopic scales. The numerical calculations indicate that the results obtained with macroscopic and microscopic modeling both fit the measurements fairly well in terms of the free surface elevations and velocity fields. Specifically, the microscopic modeling better simulates detailed phenomena such as flow injection from the porous medium and the initial stage of the formation of the main vortex in the leeward face of the obstacle. After the solitary wave completely propagates over the permeable object, the discrepancies between macroscopic and microscopic model results are insignificant. More accurate 3D results are used to determine the trajectories of fluid particles around the porous object to help understand the possible sediment movements in suspensions.     

海底山脊作用下内孤立波破碎研究

基于实验室水槽实验,研究了内孤立波在海底山脊地形存在下的破碎过程。实验设置了两层流体的分层环境,定量地控制了上下层水体厚度及密度,使用不同高度的高斯地形模拟实际的海山作用,讨论了不同高度地形作用下内孤立波破碎过程的异同。实验结果表明,内孤立波的破碎过程中由于逆压梯度的存在,在地形处发生边界层分离,产生了底边界层反向射流和涡脱落现象,计算了内孤立波破碎过程中产生的底部切应力的分布。本文通过实验模拟了内孤立波再海山作用下的破碎过程,进一步探究了海山对内孤立波破碎的影响和底部切应力的作用,对于研究自然界中海洋内孤立波在海山区域的破碎现象有参考价值。     

Modelling of wave damping at Guyana mud coast

The Guyana coastal system is characterized by very thick deposits of Amazon mud and high mud concentrations in its coastal waters. The mud deposits can be quite soft and may liquefy under incoming waves. Subsequently, the liquefied mud damps the incoming waves effectively. This paper presents a simple model to predict wave attenuation over soft (fluid) mud beds. This model is based on the two-layer approach by Gade [Gade, H.G., 1958, Effects of a non-rigid, impermeable bottom on plane surface waves in shallow water, Journal of Marine Research, 16 (2) 61–82.] which is implemented in the standard version of the state-of-the-art wave-prediction model SWAN. Input to the mud wave damping module consists of the extension, thickness, density and viscosity of the liquefied (fluid) mud layer.     

Analysis of the intensification of tsunami waves near the South Coast of Crimea

We perform the numerical analysis of the intensification of tsunami waves in the course of their propagation from the open part of the Black Sea to the shelf zone. For this purpose, we use a one-dimensional model of nonlinear long waves taking into account the effect of bottom friction. We study four profiles of the bottom corresponding to the south coast of the Crimean Peninsula and establish the predominant role of the bottom pattern and insignificant contribution of nonlinearity to the transformation of waves in the process of their propagation in the direction of the coast. Down to depths of 50 m, all changes in the height of waves are described by the Green law. For the evaluation of vertical run-up of waves, it is important to take into account nonlinear effects. The highest vertical run-ups of waves are observed in the parts of the shelf zone located near Yalta and Alushta. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

Acoustic mode coupling by nonlinear internal wave packets in a shelfbreak front area

A computational case study of coupled-mode 400-Hz acoustic propagation over the distance 27 km on the continental shelf is presented. The mode coupling reported here is caused by lateral gradients of sound-speed within packets of nonlinear internal waves, often referred to as solitary wave packets. In a waveguide having unequal attenuation of modes, directional exchange of energy between low- and high-loss modes, via mode coupling, can become time dependent by the movement of waves and can cause temporally variable loss of acoustic energy into the bottom. Here, that bottom interaction effect is shown to be sensitive to stratification conditions, which determine waveguide properties and, in turn, determine modal attenuation coefficients. In particular, time-dependent energy loss due to the presence of moving internal wave packets is compared for waveguides with and without a frontal feature similar to that found at the shelfbreak south of New England. The mean and variability of acoustic energy level 27 km distant from a source are shown to be altered in a first order way by the presence of the frontal feature. The effects of the front are also shown to be functions of source depth.     

Propagation and amplitude decay mechanisms of internal solitary waves

In this paper, a modified dynamic coherent eddy model (DCEM) of large eddy simulation is applied to study internal solitary waves in a numerical flume. The model was verified by physical experiment and applied to investigate the potential influence factors on internal wave amplitude. In addition, we discussed the energy loss of internal solitary wave as well as hydrodynamics in the propagation. The results of our study show that (1) Step-depth is the most sensitive factor on wave amplitude for the “step-pool” internal wave generation method and the wave amplitudes obey a linear increase with step depth, and the increase rate is about 0.4. (2) Wave energy loss obeys a linear decrease with the propagation distance and its loss rate of large amplitude waves is smaller than that of small amplitude waves. (3) Loss of kinetic energy in wave valley is larger than that near the interface due to relative high fluctuating frequency. (4) Discovered boundary jet-flow can intensify the bottom shear, which might be one of the mechanisms of substance transportation, and the boundary layers of jet flows are easily influenced by the adjacent waves.     

Coastal trapped waves in a two-layer ocean: Wave properties when the density interface intersects a sloping bottom

Properties of coastal trapped waves when the pycnocline intersects a sloping bottom are studied using a two-layer model which has slopes in both layers. In this system there is an infinite discrete sequence of modes, and four different sorts of waves exist: the barotropic Kelvin wave, the upper shelf wave, the lower shelf wave and the internal Kelvin-type wave. They all propagate with the coast to their right in the Northern Hemisphere. The upper and lower shelf waves are due to the topographic-effect on the upper-layer and lower-layer slopes, respectively. Their motions are dominant in the respective layers being accompanied by significant interface elevations. The properties of the upper (lower) shelf wave are almost unaffected by the existence of a lower-layer (upper-layer) slope. The motion of the internal Kelvin-type wave is confined to the region around the line where the density interface intersects the bottom slope.The modes, except that with the fastest phase speed (the barotropic Kelvin wave), are assigned mode numbers in order of descending frequency. Characteristics of Mode 1 change with wavenumber; the upper shelf wave for small wavenumbers and the internal Kelvin-type wave for large wavenumbers (high frequencies). The higher modes of Mode 2 and above can be classified into the upper and lower shelf waves.     

A new model for surface wave propagation over undulating topography

A new model is presented for the propagation of monochromatic surface waves over a region of arbitrary, one-dimensional bottom topography. The smoothly varying bed profile is divided into a series of shelves separated by abrupt steps. The wave fields on either side of each step are related by a “transfer matrix”, and the propagation of waves along the shelf between adjacent steps is described by a “rotation matrix”. Starting from a point where the surface wavefield is known, the step by step application of the appropriate combination of these matrices allows computation of the wavefield over the region of interest. If the individual steps are small then the transfer matrix reduces to a simpler plane-wave form, with considerable savings in computational effort. Comparisons are made with an exact potential solution for single and double steps in order to investigate the accuracy and validity of the matrix method. Finally, the model is applied to the case of wave reflection by fixed sinusoidal bottom undulations, and good agreement is found between its predictions and existing laboratory data.     

Efficiency of dense shelf water cascading over the continental slope of Severnaya Zemlya in the Laptev Sea and its possible contribution to the ventilation of the intermediate water in the Nansen Basin

Comprehensive field observations of hydrological processes in the region of the continental slope of Severnaya Zemlya in the Laptev Sea allowed us to reveal descending dense (cold) shelf water over the slope (cascading) and to determine the spatiotemporal variability of the cascading [2]. The observations represented a series of polygon surveys in the autumn-winter-spring period. The estimates of the characteristics of the slope convection of the shelf water (cascading) were based on the results of laboratory and theoretical studies of the descending of the dense water over a sloping bottom in a rotating fluid with sources of different geometry. It was shown that the cascading of dense shelf water over the continental slope mainly corresponds to a smooth (geostrophic) regime. An analysis of some thermohaline and density sections indicates, however, the possibility of the development of a wave-eddy regime of cascading and/or generation of fast gravity waves in the upper part of the continental slope. The most representative estimation of the contribution of the cascading of dense shelf water on the northern continental slope of Severnaya Zemlya to the ventilation of the intermediate waters in the Nansen Basin for five winter months is ≈0.0614 Sv.     

Solitary wave interaction with a concentric porous cylinder system

Theoretical investigations on solitary waves interacting with a surface-piercing concentric porous cylinder system are presented in this paper. The outer cylinder is porous and considered thin in thickness, while the inner cylinder is solid. Both cylinders are rigidly fixed on the bottom. Following Isaacson's [Isaacson, Micheal de St. Q., 1983. Solitary wave diffraction around large cylinder. Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 109(1), 121–127.] approach, we obtained the solutions for free-surface elevation and the corresponding velocity potential in terms of Fourier integrals. Numerical results are presented to show the effects of incident wave condition, porosity of the outer cylinder and radius ratio on wave forces and wave elevations around the inner and outer cylinders.     

南海东沙海域内孤立波形态研究

本文基于反射地震数据和MODIS遥感数据,对南海东沙海域内孤立波及孤立波群的形态有了系统的认识。内孤立波存在上升型和下降型两种极性波,又根据波形分成“钟形”、“平底形”和“碗形”三种类型,孤立波在波谷处的形状与孤立波振幅有关。单个内孤立波在传播一段时间后,受到各种因素的影响,会发育成波群。东沙海域的不同位置存在两种波群:“有序型”波群和“复杂型”波群,结合它们的位置及波群传播过程,认为这两种波群可能是孤立波从深海向陆架的整个传播过程中的两个阶段,“有序型”波群在被东沙岛阻碍后,受到各种海底地形、东沙环礁、波-波相互作用的影响,转变成“复杂型”波群。