Longitudinal dispersion in wave-current-vegetation flow

The flow, turbulence, and longitudinal dispersion in wave-current flow through submerged vegetation are experimentally examined. Laboratory experiments are carried out by superimposing progressive waves on a steady flow through simulated submerged vegetation. The resultant wave-current-vegetation interaction shows strong interface shear with increase in the velocity due to the wave-induced drift. The increase in turbulence in the region of vegetation is found to be about twice higher than in the no-wave case due to the additional mixing by wave motions. Solute experiments are conducted to quantify the wave-current-vegetation longitudinal dispersion coefficient (WCVLDC) by the routing method and by defining length and velocity scales for the wave-current-vegetation flow. An empirical expression for the WCVLDC is proposed. Although the increase in vertical diffusivity is observed as compared with bare-bed channels, the shear effect is stronger, which increases the value of the WCVLDC. The study can be a guideline to understand the combined hydrodynamics of waves, current, and vegetation and quantify the longitudinal dispersion therein. Published in Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 1, pp. 50–67, January–February, 2009.     

随机波浪下斯托克司漂移速度是否引起水面漂移物离散的研究

漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究（以Herterich和Hasselmann（1982）为代表）普遍认为,随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散,这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知,随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量,因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪（P-M谱）作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。     

Vertical momentum transfer by internal waves when eddy viscosity and diffusion are taken into account

Free internal waves are considered in a Boussinesq approximation in the situation when horizontal eddy viscosity and diffusion in a vertically inhomogeneous flow are taken into account. The dispersion relation and wave damping factor are found in a linear approximation. The Stokes drift velocity is determined in the second order of smallness based on the wave amplitude. It has been indicated that the Stokes drift velocity, transverse with respect to the wave propagation direction, differs from zero if the flow-rate transverse component depends on the vertical coordinate. Vertical momentum fluxes differ from zero and can be comparable with or exceed the corresponding turbulent fluxes if eddy viscosity and diffusion are taken into account.     

Vertical heat and salt fluxes induced by inertia-gravity internal waves on sea shelf

Free inertia-gravity internal waves are considered in a two-dimensional vertically nonuniform flow in the Boussinesq approximation. The equation for vertical velocity amplitude includes complex factors caused by the gradient of the flow velocity component transverse to the wave-propagation direction; therefore, the eigenfunction and wave frequency are complex. It is shown that the decrement of damping (imaginary correction to the frequency) of 15-min internal waves is two orders of magnitude smaller than the wave frequency; i.e., the waves weakly damp. Vertical wave fluxes of heat and salt are nonzero due to the phase shift between fluctuations of the vertical velocity and temperature (salinity) different from π 2. The vertical component of the Stokes drift speed is also nonzero and contributed into the vertical transport.     

An experimental investigation of the velocity field under cnoidal waves over the asymmetric rippled bed

1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…     

Wave-induced drift of an elliptical surface film

This study investigates experimentally the drift velocity of an elliptical surface film advected by deep-water waves. Thin polyethylene sheets were used to simulate the inextensible surface film. The drift velocities were obtained by recording and analyzing a sequence of images captured using a video camera. The results show that the drift velocity increases with the longitudinal length of the polyethylene sheet until approximately 0.8 times the wavelength. Beyond that, further increment would not result in substantial increase in the drift velocity. The effect due to the normalized transverse width is found to be significant within a particular range. At large wave steepness, the drift velocity appears to be limited by the Stokes drift. A set of best-fit empirical equations based on the sigmoidal function is introduced for oil spill trajectory prediction.     

Experimental study on internal waves in a stratified shear flow

This paper describes experiments on interfacial phenomena in a stratified shear flow having a sharp velocity shear at a density interface. The interface was visualized in vertical cross-section using dye, and the flow pattern was traced using aluminum powder. Two kinds of internal waves with different phase velocities and wave profiles were observed. They are here named p(positive)-waves and n(negative)-waves, respectively. By means of a two-dimensional visualization technique, the following facts have been confirmed regarding these waves. (1) The two kinds of waves propagate in the opposite direction relative to a system moving with the mean velocity at the interface, and their dispersion relations approximately agree with the two solutions of interfacial waves in a two-layer system of a linear basic shear flow. (2) The p-wave has sharp crests and flat troughs, and the n-wave has the reverse of this. This difference in wave profile is due to the finite amplitude effect. (3) Phase velocity of each wave lies within the range of the mean velocity profile, so that a critical layer exists and each wave has a “cat's eye” flow pattern in the vicinity of the critical layer, when observed in a system moving with the phase velocity. Consequently, these two waves are symmetrical with respect to the interface. The mechanisms of generation of these waves, and the entrainment process are discussed. It is inferred that when the “cat's eye” flow pattern is distorted and a stagnation point approaches the interface, entrainment in the form of a stretched wisp from the lower to the upper layer occurs for the p-wave, and from the upper to the lower layer for the n-wave.     

Experimental determination of wavelengths in the presence of a mean current

This paper describes a simple method for determining the wavelength of small amplitude waves under laboratory conditions where reflected wave components are present both with and without a mean current flow superimposed. It assumes a locally horizontal bed but requires no a priori assumption concerning the form of the dispersion relation with a coexisting current. Synchronous measurements of the water surface recorded along any straight line are analysed to yield Fourier coefficients at each location. It is then shown that for all practical conditions excluding a perfect standing wave, the average rate of change of wave phase in the chosen direction can be related directly to the component of incident wave number in that direction, irrespective of reflection coefficient or relative current strength. The technique has been applied to regular and bichromatic waves in a flume with an absorbing wave generator, and can also be applied in 3-D wave basins where waves and currents intersect at arbitrary angles. In combined wave–current experiments, by assuming the linear dispersion relation, it is also possible to estimate the effective current velocity.     

Drift velocity at the wave breaking point

Wave-tank studies were conducted on the measurement of the drift velocity at the breaking point under different types of breaking waves on a rigid, plane beach. The drift velocity has onshore direction near the surface and close to the bottom; in the main flow column, the drift velocity is always offshore. The offshore drift velocity shows a more uniform vertical distribution than that in the offshore region. The experimental data are compared with theoretical values of three different second-order constant-depth wave theories. Comparisons with data from other sources are also made.     

Taylor Dispersion of Contaminants by Dual-peak Spectral Random Waves

Recent extensive and important studies have provided detailed information and compelling evidence on how the presence of waves influences the vertical diffusivity/dispersivity in the coastal environment, which can affect various water quality considerations such as the distribution of suspended sediments in the water column as well as the potential of eutrophication. Comparatively, how the presence of waves influences the horizontal diffusivity/dispersivity has received only scant attention in the literature. Our previous works investigated the role played by the Taylor mechanism due to the wave-induced drift profile which leads to the longitudinal dispersion of contaminants in the horizontal direction, under regular sinusoidal waves and random waves with single-peak spectra.Natural waves in the coastal environment, however, often possess dual-peak spectra, comprising both higher frequency wind waves and lower frequency swells. In this study, the Taylor dispersion of contaminants under random waves with dual-peak spectra is examined through analytical derivation and numerical calculations. The effects of various dual-peak spectral parameters on the horizontal dispersion, including the proportion of lower frequency energy, peak frequency ratio and spectral shape parameter, are investigated. The results show that the relative energy distribution between the dual peaks has the most significant effect. Compared with single-peak spectra with equivalent energy, the Taylor dispersion with dual-peak spectra is stronger when the lower frequency is close to the peak frequency of the single-peak spectrum, and weaker with the higher frequency instead. Thus, it can be concluded that with a dual-peak wave spectrum, wind-dominated seas with higher frequency lead to stronger dispersion in the horizontal direction than swell-dominated seas with lower frequency.     

随机波浪下泰勒离散系数的时域解

利用Wolk提出的粒子追踪方程,通过等分频率法划分不规则波谱,利用MATLAB做粒子运动模拟计算,得到无因次化泰勒离散系数K/D随时间t变化的曲线;通过与Huang等得到的P-M谱的泰勒离散系数K/D计算结果比较证明了本计算方法的可靠性。采用该方法研究了不规则波条件下,波序列(同一谱型不同波面序列)和谱型(谱峰周期、有效波高、谱峰升高因子)对波浪离散系数的影响;计算结果表明:同一谱型不同波序列对泰勒纵向离散系数稳定值和稳定时间无影响;不规则波谱峰周期越大,纵向离散系数K/D越小,稳定时间越短;有效波高越大,纵向离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;谱峰升高因子越大,泰勒离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;与规则波相比,不规则波的泰勒离散系数K/D的值略小10%~30%。     

A note on ocean surface drift with application to surface velocities measured with HF Radar

The ocean drift current consists of a (local) pure drift current generated by the interaction of wind and waves at the sea surface, to which the surface geostrophic current is added vectorially. We present (a) a similarity solution for the wave boundary layer (which has been validated through the prediction of the 10-m drag law), from which the component of pure drift current along the direction of the wind (and hence the speed factor) can be evaluated from the 10-m wind speed and the peak wave period, and (b) a similarity solution for the Ekman layers of the two fluids, which shows that under steady-state neutral conditions the pure drift current lies along the direction of the geostrophic wind, and has a magnitude 0.034 that of the geostrophic wind speed. The co-existence of these two similarity solutions indicates that the frictional properties of the coupled air-sea system are easily evaluated functions of the 10-m wind speed and the peak wave period, and also leads to a simple expression for the angle of deflection of the pure drift current to the 10 m wind. The analysis provides a dynamical model for global ocean drift on monthly and annual time scales for which the steady-state neutral model is a good approximation. In particular, the theoretical results appear to be able to successfully predict the mean surface drift measured by HF Radar, which at present is the best technique for studying the near surface velocity profile.     

有界赤道大洋波包解及其年际年代际变率

Linearized shallow water perturbation equations with approximation in an equatorial β plane are used to obtain the analytical solution of wave packet anomalies in the upper bounded equatorial ocean. The main results are as follows. The wave packet is a superposition of eastward travelling Kelvin waves and westward travelling Rossby waves with the slowest speed, and satisfies the boundary conditions of eastern and western coasts, respectively.The decay coefficient of this solution to the north and south sides of the equator is inversely proportional only to the phase velocity of Kelvin waves in the upper water. The oscillation frequency of the wave packet, which is also the natural frequency of the ocean, is proportional to its mode number and the phase velocity of Kelvin waves and is inversely proportional to the length of the equatorial ocean in the east-west direction. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 1 most of the time appear as zonal flows with the same direction. They reach the maximum at the center of the equatorial ocean and decay rapidly away from the equator, manifested as equatorially trapped waves. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 2 appear as the zonal flows with the same direction most of the time in half of the ocean, and are always 0 at the center of the entire ocean which indicates stagnation, while decaying away from the equator with the same speed as that of Mode 1. The spatial structure and oscillation period of the wave packet solution of Mode 1 and Mode 2 are consistent with the changing periods of the surface spatial field and time coefficient of the first and second modes of complex empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis of flow anomalies in the actual equatorial ocean. This indicates that the solution does exist in the real ocean, and that El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation(ENSO) and Indian Ocean dipole(IOD) are both related to Mode 2.After considering the Indonesian throughflow, we can obtain the length of bounded equatorial ocean by taking the sum of that of the tropical Indian Ocean and the tropical Pacific Ocean, thus this wave packet can also explain the decadal variability(about 20 a) of the equatorial Pacific and Indian Oceans.     

Forced convection accompanying wind waves

Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves.     

An analysis of horizontal dispersion due to the drift current with an Ekman layer

An analytical method for describing horizontal matter dispersion in shear currents is presented using a tensor expression from the point of view that matter dispersion due to the shear effect should be one of the principal mixing dilution processes. Although the behavior of horizontal dispersion is considerably more complicated than common longitudinal dispersion, the present study elucidates the vertical structure of dispersion and the dispersing process from the initial to the stationary stage, besides the usual depth-averaged dispersion coefficient at the stationary stage. As one of the typical applications of horizontal dispersion, dispersion due to the pure drift current with an Ekman layer is examined theoretically using the present method. This examination reveals that the displacement of the centroid and the major axis of dispersion are twisted in the vertical direction more than the direction of the current vector forming the Ekman spiral; that the variance increases in proportion to the third power of the elapsed time; and that the dispersion coefficient at the stationary stage remains constant, independent of the depth normalized by an Ekman layer thickness. Such dependence of the dispersion coefficient in the steady current is shown to be different from that in the oscillatory current, which is inversely proportional to the depth normalized by a Stokes layer thickness. This is considered to be induced by the difference of the vertical profiles of the first order moment in both currents, that is, the shear region of the first order moment is restricted around the floor by the alternation of the current shear in the oscillatory current while it is diffused in the whole depth in the steady current.     

Steady drift force on vertical cylinder - viscous vs. potential

The contribution of the steady drift force on a floating structure may arise from waves, wind and current. The component of the wave drift force may be due to the second-order diffraction theory or potential effect and may be due to the velocity squared force or viscous effect. The presence of current in waves increases the effect of the viscous force. The expressions for these terms for a vertical cylinder are derived and their relative importance is investigated. Plots are presented showing the regions where the viscous or potential drift force predominates. Experiments were conducted with both small and large diameter cylinders. The mean drift forces obtained in these tests are compared with the theory.     

Nonlinear effects in the process of propagation of internal waves in the presence of turbulence

In the Boussinesq approximation, we study the nonlinear effects observed in the process of propagation of internal waves in the presence of turbulence. The space damping factor of the waves is evaluated. The Stokes drift velocity and the Euler velocity of the mean current induced by waves due to the presence of nonlinearity are determined. It is shown that the principal contribution to the wave transfer is made by the horizontal velocity of the induced current. The Stokes drift is significant only near the bottom. The vertical component of the Stokes drift velocity obtained with regard for the turbulent viscosity is nonzero.     

Wave damping over artificial Posidonia oceanica meadow: A large-scale experimental study

An experimental study, conducted in the large wave flume of CIEM in Barcelona, is presented to evaluate the effects of Posidonia oceanica meadows on the wave height damping and on the wave induced velocities. The experiments were performed for irregular waves from intermediate to shallow waters with the dispersion parameter h/λ ranging from 0.09 to 0.29. Various configurations of the artificial P. oceanica meadow were tested for two stem density patterns (360 and 180 stems/m²) and for plant's height ranging from 1/3 to 1/2 of the water depth.The results for wave height attenuation are in good agreement with the analytical expressions found in literature, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the vegetated field is due to the drag forces. Based on this hypothesis, an empirical relationship for the drag coefficient related to the Reynolds number, Re, is proposed. The Reynolds number, calculated using the artificial P. oceanica leaf width as the length scale and the maximum orbital velocity over the meadow edge as the characteristic velocity scale, ranges from 1000 to 3500 and the drag coefficient C_d ranges from 0.75 to 2.0.The calculated wave heights, using the analytical expression from literature and the proposed relationship for the estimation of C_d, are in satisfactory agreement with those measured. Wave orbital velocities are shown to be significantly attenuated inside the meadow and just above the flume bed as indicated by the calculation of an attenuation parameter. Near the meadow edge, energy transfer is found in spectral wave velocities from the longer to the shorter wave period components. From the analysis it is shown that the submerged vegetation attenuates mostly longer waves.     

Longitudinal dispersion due to the boundary layer in an oscillatory current: Theoretical analysis in the case of an instantaneous line source

The longitudinal dispersion effect due to the boundary layer formed by a tidal oscillatory current is examined theoretically. This analysis reveals the process whereby the dispersion coefficient becomes steady after the release of the diffusing substance. Though the dispersion due to an oscillatory current has so far been investigated mostly in the case of a linear velocity profile, the following result was found by taking account of the boundary layer in the oscillatory current. The depth-averaged dispersion coefficient for the case of a current having a boundary layer can be a few times larger than in the case of a linear velocity profile when the characteristic mixing time is long; the phase lead in the boundary layer induces nearly 20 percent of the longitudinal dispersion effect.