Numerical simulation of tsunami waves generated by deformable submarine landslides

This paper presents a new submarine landslide model based on the non-hydrostatic wave model NHWAVE of Ma et al. (2012). The landslide is modeled as a water–sediment mixture. The dense plume is driven by baroclinic pressure forcing introduced by spatial density variations. The model is validated using laboratory measurements of turbidity currents and of water wave generation by a granular landslide. The model is then utilized to study the dependence of landslide motion and associated tsunami wave generation on parameters including sediment settling velocity, initial depth of the landslide and slide density. Model results show that the slide motion and water waves which it generates are both sensitive to these parameters. The relative tsunamigenic response to rigid and deformable landslides of equal initial geometry and density is also examined. It is found that the wave energy is mostly concentrated on a narrow band of the dominant slide direction for the waves generated by rigid landslides, while directional spreading is more significant for waves generated by deformable landslides. The deformable landslide has larger speed and acceleration at the early stage of landslide, resulting in larger surface waves. The numerical results indicate that the model is capable of reasonably simulating tsunami wave generation by submarine landslides.     

Probabilistic analysis for wave‐induced submarine landslides

Abstract

When waves propagate over the ocean floor, they induce a change of hydrodynamic pressure, positive under the crest and negative under the trough. These pressure changes may cause shear failure in soft sediments and lead to submarine landslides. This paper presents a general analytical procedure for evaluating the probability of wave‐induced failure in offshore clay sediments. Both the wave and the un‐drained shear strength of clay sediments are considered random. Numerical results of some analyses are also presented.     

福建沿海浪潮耦合漫堤风险评估:以台风天兔为例

漫堤是天文潮、风暴潮与海浪等物理要素作用于海堤后海水翻越海堤的物理过程。本文利用天文潮-风暴潮-台风浪耦合模式(ADCIRC+SWAN)、基于非结构三角形网格和高分辨率地理数据(海堤位置和高程、岸线和水深等)构建福建沿海精细化漫堤风险等级评估系统。该系统在近岸网格分辨率最高达50m,可精确刻画福建沿海复杂地形。利用模拟的水位与海浪参数,采用波浪爬高公式计算得到各海堤堤前波浪爬高。按照总水位与波浪爬高之和与海堤高程的对比,将漫堤风险分为五个等级。对2013年的超强台风天兔过程进行后报检验。结果显示,该系统计算的漫堤情况与灾后调查的漫堤实况基本一致,结果准确,说明本研究中采用的漫堤风险评估标准和方法是可行的。在此基础上,设计了4种不同的台风强度等级,对福建沿海206条海堤进行了漫堤风险等级评估,探究台风强度对漫堤风险的影响。结果表明:波浪爬高对漫堤风险的影响高于单纯的风暴潮增水;风暴潮增水随台风强度的增强增量较小,对于漫堤的风险影响较小;福建沿海波浪爬高普遍较高,随着台风强度的增强,波浪爬高会显著增加漫堤的风险等级,且应重视台风浪对海堤造成的冲击所导致的溃堤灾害。本研究可为沿海防灾减灾提供...     

Physical modelling of tsunami using a new pneumatic wave generator

The physical simulation of tsunami in the laboratory has taken a major leap forward with the construction and testing of a new wave generator, capable of recreating scaled tsunami waves. Numerical tools fail to reproduce tsunami nearshore and onshore processes well, and physical experiments in large scale hydraulic facilities worldwide have been limited to the generation of solitary waves as an (controversial) approximation for evolved forms of tsunami. The new concept in wave generation presented herein is born of collaboration between UCL's Earthquake and People Interaction Centre (EPICentre) and HR Wallingford. It allows for the first time the stable simulation of extremely long waves led either by a crest or a trough (depressed wave). This paper presents the working concepts behind the new wave generator and the first stages of testing for verifying its capacities and limitations. It is shown that the new wave generator can not only reproduce solitary waves and N-waves with large wavelengths, but also the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami as recorded off the coast of Thailand (“Mercator” trace).     

Boussinesq modelling of solitary wave and N-wave runup on coast

A total variation diminishing Lax–Wendroff scheme has been applied to numerically solve the Boussinesq-type equations. The runup processes on a vertical wall and on a uniform slope by various waves, including solitary waves, leading-depression N-waves and leading-elevation N-waves, have been investigated using the developed numerical model. The results agree well with the runup laws derived analytically by other researchers for non-breaking waves. The predictions with respect to breaking solitary waves generally follow the empirical runup relationship established from laboratory experiments, although some degree of over-prediction on the runup heights has been manifested. Such an over-prediction can be attributed to the exaggeration of the short waves in the front of the breaking waves. The study revealed that the leading-depression N-wave produced a higher runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude, whereas the leading-elevation N-wave produced a slightly lower runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude. For the runup on a vertical wall, this trend becomes prominent when the wave height-to-depth ratio exceeds 0.01. For the runup on a slope, this trend is prominent before the strong wave breaking occurs.     

Study of the propagation direction of the internal waves in the South China Sea using satellite images

Internal wave propagation carries considerable vertical shear which can lead to turbulence and mixing. Based on the analysis of more than 2 500 synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and optical satellite images, the internal wave propagation in the whole South China Sea was investigated systematically. The results show that (1) in the northeastern South China Sea, most internal waves propagate westward from the Luzon Strait and are diffracted by coral reefs near the Dongsha Islands. Some impinge onto the shelf and a few are reflected; (2) in the northwestern South China Sea, most internal waves are generated at the shelf and propagate northwestward or westward to the coast; (3) in the western South China Sea, most internal waves propagate westward to the Vietnamese coast, except a few propagate southward to the deep sea; and (4) in the southern South China Sea, most internal waves propagate southwestward to the coast. Some propagate southeastward to the coast of Kalimantan Island, and a few propagate southeastward because of the influence of the Mekong River.     

The effect of wave-induced radiation stress on storm surge during Typhoon Saomai (2006)

The effects of wave-induced radiation stress on storm surge were simulated during Typhoon Saomai using a wave-current coupled model based on ROMS (Regional Ocean Modeling System) ocean model and SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) wave model.The results show that radiation stress can cause both set-up and set-down in the storm surge.Wave-induced set-up near the coast can be explained by decreasing significant wave heights as the waves propagate shoreward in an approximately uniform direction;wave-induced set-down far from the coast can be explained by the waves propagating in an approximately uniform direction with increasing significant wave heights.The shoreward radiation stress is the essential reason for the wave-induced set-up along the coast.The occurrence of set-down can be also explained by the divergence of the radiation stress.The maximum wave-induced set-up occurs on the right side of the Typhoon path,whereas the maximum wave induced set-down occurs on the left side.     

Wavenumber–frequency analysis of the landslide-generated tsunamis at a conical island

In this paper we investigate the propagation of tsunamis generated by landslides around the coast of an island to understand the propagation and trapping mechanisms of the waves. Records of shoreline displacement have been processed using the wavenumber–frequency analysis (k–f). We identify the dispersion relation followed by the waves that propagate alongshore. It appears that the 0th-order edge wave mode is the only one relevant for shoreline run-up. Furthermore, it is shown that the edge wave dispersion relation is a quantitative tool to estimate the phase and group wave celerities. A very good agreement is found when comparing the wave celerities as calculated from the experimental records, against those predicted by the edge wave theory. Furthermore the analysis of the tsunami around the island has been carried out by means of the two-dimensional k–f. Using as input data a high-space resolution dataset of free surface elevations it is found that other modes, both trapped (1st-order edge waves) and non-trapped (free radiating waves), occur during the propagation.     

Study on Influences of Fringing Reef on Harbor Oscillations Triggered by N-Waves

Influences of topographic variations of the offshore fringing reef on the harbor oscillations excited by incident Nwaves with different amplitudes and waveform types are studied for the first time. Both the propagation of the Nwaves over the reef and the subsequently-induced harbor oscillations are simulated by a Boussinesq-type numerical model, FUNWAVE-TVD. The present study concentrates on revealing the influences of the plane reef-face slope,the reef-face profile shape and the lagoon width on the maximum runup, the wave energy distribution and the total wave energy within the harbor. It shows that both the wave energy distribution uniformity and the total wave energy gradually increase with decreasing reef-face slope. The profile shape of the reef face suffering leading-elevation Nwaves(LEN waves) has a negligible impact on the wave energy distribution uniformity, while for leading-depression N-waves(LDN waves), the latter gradually decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. The total wave energy always first increases and then decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. In general, the total wave energy first sharply decreases and then slightly increases with the lagoon width, regardless of the reef-face width and the incident waveform type. The maximum runup subjected to the LEN waves decreases monotonously with the lagoon width. However, for the LDN waves, its changing trend with the lagoon width relies on the incident wave amplitude.     

Continental shelf waves off the Fukushima coast

Numerical experiments are performed on shelf waves forced by wind stress with a spectral peak around a period of 100 hr. Water depth in the numerical model is a function of offshore distance only and resembles a bathymetric profile off the Fukushima coast. A pair of vortices alined in the offshore direction and a large vortex are reproduced and they propagate southward outside the forced region. Judging from the propagation speed, the former corresponds to the second-mode and the latter to the first-mode shelf waves. In the forced region, the propagation speed of a trough and a ridge is slow, 3–5km hr^–1. These propagation characteristics reproduce those observed along the Fukushima coast and this propagation speed corresponds to that of second-and third-mode shelf waves. Thus, it is concluded that the periodical current fluctuations observed in the inshore region along the Fukushima coast are due to motions associated with the second-and third-mode shelf waves.     

珊瑚岛礁孤立波爬坡的平面二维数值模拟研究

为了探究岛屿周围珊瑚礁在抵御海啸灾害中的作用,采用激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型FUNWAVE-TVD,对孤立波在理想化三维岛礁地形上的传播及爬坡开展了现场尺度的平面二维数值模拟,分析了入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、礁前斜坡坡度、礁后斜坡坡度、珊瑚礁糙率对岛屿四周孤立波爬高分布的影响。结果表明,珊瑚礁的存在总体上可有效降低岛屿四周孤立波的最大爬坡高度;入射波高、礁坪水深、礁坪宽度、珊瑚礁糙率是影响珊瑚岛礁四周孤立波爬坡分布的主要因素,岛礁四周最大爬坡高度会随入射波高和礁坪水深的增大、礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率的减小而不断增大;当礁坪水深增大到一定程度时,珊瑚礁主要会对岛屿背浪面的爬高失去影响,而当礁坪宽度和珊瑚礁糙率减小至一定程度时,会出现岛礁四周最大爬高高于无珊瑚礁时爬高的现象;礁后斜坡的变缓会使岛礁周围的最大爬高有所减小,而礁前斜坡坡度对珊瑚岛礁周围的最大爬高几乎没有影响。     

Scenarios of local tsunamis in the China Seas by Boussinesq model

The Okinawa Trench in the East China Sea and the Manila Trench in the South China Sea are considered to be the regions with high risk of potential tsunamis induced by submarine earthquakes. Tsunami waves will impact the southeast coast of China if tsunamis occur in these areas. In this paper, the horizontal two-dimensional Boussinesq model is used to simulate tsunami generation, propagation, and runnp in a domain with complex geometrical boundaries. The temporary varying bottom boundary condition is adopted to describe the initial tsunami waves motivated by the submarine faults. The Indian Ocean tsunami is simulated by the numerical model as a validation case. The time series of water elevation and runup on the beach are compared with the measured data from field survey. The agreements indicate that the Boussinesq model can be used to simulate tsunamis and predict the waveform and runup. Then, the hypothetical tsunamis in the Okinawa Trench and the Manila Trench are simulated by the numerical model. The arrival time and maximum wave height near coastal cities are predicted by the model. It turns out that the leading depression N-wave occurs when the tsunami propagates in the continental shelf from the Okinawa Trench. The scenarios of the tsunami in the Manila Trench demonstrate significant effects on the coastal area around the South China Sea.     

An experimental investigation of the velocity field under cnoidal waves over the asymmetric rippled bed

1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…     

Taylor-Görtler vortices expected in the air flow on sea surface waves—I

Taylor-Grörtler vortices are longitudinal vortices resulting from a centrifugal instability. They are generated in the flow having a curved streamline with an increasing velocity in the direction of decreasing curvature.It is shown that the air flow above wind waves and swells also satisfies locally the condition of the centrifugal instability. Numerical calculations indicate the possibility of generation of Taylor-Görtler vortices on the trough of sea waves. For example, when a wind of about 12.2 m/s at 10-m level is blowing over sea waves of the wave length of 15 m like the swell, the critical water wave height beyond which the vortices may be generated is about 0.5 m, and the critical wave length and the height of center of the generated vortices are about 24 m and 3.7 m, respectively. Further, about the relations between the generation of vortices and wind waves, it is shown that the condition of their generation is satisfied at the trough of waves for early stages of the wave generation.In conclusion, it is expected that the Taylor-Görtler vortices change the wind profile along the sea surface, and also, play some part in the growth of wind waves, especially in the formation of their three dimensional structure.     

Wave runup on a surging vertical cylinder in regular waves

The wave runup caused by a vertical cylinder surging in regular waves is studied both experimentally and numerically. The so-called DualSPHysics Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) code is used for the 3-D numerical modelling. A wide range of cylinder sizes and wave conditions is investigated with results comparing favourably between the experimental and SPH model under both fixed and forced-surge conditions. The experimental and SPH results are further used to predict the maximum runup amplification, in particular the ratio of the runup caused by the surging cylinder to that of the fixed, over the phase difference between the incident wave and surge motion. This maximum runup ratio has been analysed for its dependence on factors such as wave steepness, wave scattering and surge amplitude. An empirical equation is proposed for predicting the maximum runup ratio from known incident wave and surge conditions. Comparison with results from linear solvers suggests that the linear solvers under-predict the full nonlinear runup by a factor of 1.3–1.5.     

深水极端波浪非线性几何特征试验分析

为了解极端波浪非线性特征,明确波群在演化过程中的水动力学特性,针对一系列高斯波群进行了深水物理试验分析。试验结果显示,增加波陡或波群宽度,均可使波面偏度Sk发生明显变化,尤其当波浪发生破碎后,在破碎区域内,波面偏度变化范围剧烈增大,说明该偏度极大值可能作为判断破碎的一个指标。波陡和波群宽度对波面不对称度影响程度不同:当波陡或波群宽度增加后,波峰不对称度所受影响最大,波峰前端波谷不对称度次之,波峰后端波谷不对称度所受影响最小,但仍不可忽略。在波浪演化过程中,幅值谱出现不同程度频带下移,波浪破碎后,会出现永久频带下移;当调制不稳定发生时,随着调制不稳定指数增加,频带下移量呈现快速增长趋势。     

椭圆余弦内波及其对墩柱作用数值模拟

基于FLUENT软件建立数值波浪水槽,研究椭圆余弦内波及其对墩柱的作用。椭圆余弦内波的生成采用推板造波方法,自由面捕获采用VOF方法。首先,模拟了椭圆余弦内波的生成,比较了不同周期和波高下椭圆余弦内波的波浪形态。然后,在特定的周期和波高条件下模拟了三维椭圆余弦内波对单个墩柱及多个敦柱的作用;分析了各墩柱上受到的惯性力和粘性力的变化趋势,并对不同墩柱下的总波浪力进行了对比;得出了墩柱上受到的波浪力也呈现周期性变化并且在波浪前进方向上后墩柱的受力小于靠前墩柱的结论。     

Ocean swell variability along the northern coast of the Gulf of Guinea

This study analyses a 4.5 year (September 2009–March 2014) time-series of remotely-sensed data of altimeter significant wave heights to describe the temporal and spatial variability of ocean swells along the northern coast of the Gulf of Guinea. The NOAA WAVEWATCH III (NWW3) wave model data were used with altimeter data to determine the origin of the swells that occur along the coast of Côte d'Ivoire in West Africa. We show that the ocean swells along the northern coast of the Gulf of Guinea are generated in the Southern Ocean and then propagate from south to north in the South Atlantic Ocean, before turning south-west to north-east close to the coast. This finding corroborates previous studies in this area. The remotely-sensed and NWW3 significant wave height data captured the strong swells observed along the coast of Côte d'Ivoire from the period 28 August–3 September 2011, which were responsible for an extreme erosion event of more than 12?m along that country's coastline. This extreme event was triggered by a strong storm in the region between 40° and 60° S that occurred eight days previously in the South Atlantic. The waves propagated as swells at a speed of about 875?km day–¹ before reaching the northern African coast.     

直立堤浮托力的概率特征

本文基于1987和1988年夏季在古镇口港同步连续观测的波浪、波压力和浮托力资料,分析研究了浮托力的概率特征、浮托力沿堤底面的变化及其谱特征。结果表明,浮托力幅度和周期的累积分布实际上不随测点在堤底面上的位置变化,可用公式表示。浮托力沿堤底面宽度近似呈线性衰减,前趾浮托力最大,后趾不为零,呈梯形状。文中还给出了计算最大峰、谷总浮托力的方法。     

珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究

为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。