A coupled numerical model of wave interaction with porous medium

A new coupling model of wave interaction with porous medium is established in which the wave field solver is based on the two dimensional Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with a kε closure. Incident waves, which could be linear waves, cnoidal waves or solitary waves, are produced by a piston-type wave maker in the computational domain and the free surface is traced through the Piecewise Linear Interface Construction-Volume of Fluid (PLIC-VOF) method. Nonlinear Forchheimer equations are adopted to calculate the flow field within the porous media. By introducing a velocity–pressure correction equation, the wave field and the porous flow field are highly and efficiently coupled. The two fields are solved simultaneously and no boundary condition is needed at the interface of the internal porous flow and the external wave. The newly developed numerical model is used to simulate wave interaction with porous seabed and the numerical results agree well with the experimental data. The additional numerical tests are also conducted to study the effects of seabed thickness, porosity and permeability coefficient on wave damping and the pore water pressure responses.     

A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

Two sets of higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for water waves

Based on the classical Boussinesq model by Peregrine [Peregrine, D.H., 1967. Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 27 (4), 815–827], two parameters are introduced to improve dispersion and linear shoaling characteristics. The higher order non-linear terms are added to the modified Boussinesq equations. The non-linearity of the Boussinesq model is analyzed. A parameter related to h/L₀ is used to improve the quadratic transfer function in relatively deep water. Since the dispersion characteristic of the modified Boussinesq equations with two parameters is only equal to the second-order Padé expansion of the linear dispersion relation, further improvement is done by introducing a new velocity vector to replace the depth-averaged one in the modified Boussinesq equations. The dispersion characteristic of the further modified Boussinesq equations is accurate to the fourth-order Padé approximation of the linear dispersion relation. Compared to the modified Boussinesq equations, the accuracy of quadratic transfer functions is improved and the shoaling characteristic of the equations has higher accuracy from shallow water to deep water.     

Diffraction of multidirectional random waves by multiple rectangular submarine pits

A numerical model is presented to predict the interaction of multidirectional random surface waves with one or more rectangular submarine pits. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method involves the superposition of diffraction solutions based on linearized shallow water wave theory obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous theoretical results for regular waves. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field around multiple submarine pits and navigation channels in many practical situations.     

A higher-order σ-coordinate non-hydrostatic model for nonlinear surface waves

A higher-order non-hydrostatic model in a σ-coordinate system is developed. The model uses an implicit finite difference scheme on a staggered grid to simultaneously solve the unsteady Navier-Stokes equations (NSE) with the free-surface boundary conditions. An integral method is applied to resolve the top-layer non-hydrostatic pressure, allowing for accurately resolving free-surface wave propagation. In contrast to the previous work, a higher-order spatial discretization is utilized to approximate the large horizontal pressure gradient due to steep surface waves or rapidly varying topographies. An efficient direct solver is developed to solve the resulting block hepta-diagonal matrix system. Accuracy of the new model is validated by linear and nonlinear standing waves and progressive waves. The model is then used to examine freak (extreme) waves. Features of downshifting focusing location and wave asymmetry characteristics are predicted on the temporal and spatial domains of a freak wave.     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced laminar boundary layers

The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress.     

Bottom friction and its effects on periodic long wave propagation

A new set of Boussinesq-type equations describing the free surface evolution and the corresponding depth-integrated horizontal velocity is derived with the bottom boundary layer effects included. Inside the boundary layer the eddy viscosity gradient model is employed to characterize Reynolds stresses and the eddy viscosity is further approximated as a linear function of the distance measured from the seafloor. Boundary-layer velocities are coupled with the irrotational velocity in the core region through boundary conditions. The leading order boundary layer effects on wave propagation appear in the depth-integrated continuity equation to account for the velocity deficit inside the boundary layer. This formulation is different from the conventional approach in which a bottom stress term is inserted in the momentum equation. An iterative scheme is developed to solve the new model equations for the free surface elevation, depth-integrated velocity, the bottom stress, the boundary layer thickness and the magnitude of the turbulent eddy viscosity. A numerical example for the evolution of periodic waves propagating in one-dimensional channel is discussed to illustrate the numerical procedure and physics involved. The differences between the conventional approach and the present formulation are discussed in terms of the bottom frictional stress and the free surface profiles.     

Downward transfer of momentum by wind-driven waves

A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models.     

Nonlinear lifting theory for unsteady WIG in proximity to incident water waves. Part 1: Two-dimension

A nonlinear analysis is made for determining the two-dimensional unsteady potential-flow characteristics about a wing subject to wing-in-ground effect (WIG) operating above progressive water waves. The dynamic boundary condition requiring the constant pressure and the kinematic boundary condition prescribing the continuity in the vertical velocity are satisfied on the undisturbed free surface. The boundary conditions imposed on the free surface are linear, but the kinematic boundary condition satisfied on the foil surface is nonlinear. Through the derivation and evaluation of the time-domain Green's functions for two-dimensional singularities above a free surface, the influence of water waves on the lift performance of the two-dimensional WIG is addressed using the discrete vortex method. Furthermore, the roll-up of the wake vorticity is considered. The comparison of present work with other numerical results available in the literature shows the validation of the present approach.     

Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves: Part 2: Wave-induced setdown and setup on a submerged coral reef

Based on a set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion characteristics in deeper water, the present paper incorporates the simplified effect of spilling wave breaking into the equations. The analysis is restricted to a single horizontal dimension but the method can be extended to include the second horizontal dimension. Inside the surf zone the vertical variation of the horizontal velocity profile is assumed to be composed of an (initially unknown) organised velocity component below the roller and a surface roller travelling with the wave celerity. This leads to a new set of equations which is capable of simulating the transformation of waves before, during and after wave breaking. The model is calibrated and verified by comparison with several wave flume measurements. The results show that the model produces sound physical results.     

稳恒水波的Fourier近似解研究

A computational method for steady water waves is presented on the basis of potential theory in the physical plane with spatial variables as independent quantities. The finite Fourier series are applied to approximating the free surface and potential function. A set of nonlinear algebraic equations for the Fourier coefficients are derived from the free surface kinetic and dynamic boundary conditions. These algebraic equations are numerically solved through Newton＇s iterative method, and the iterative stability is further improved by a relaxation technology. The integral properties of steady water waves are numerically analyzed, showing that （1） the set-up and the set-down are both non-monotonic quantities with the wave steepness, and （2） the Fourier spectrum of the free surface is broader than that of the potential function. The latter further leads us to explore a modification for the present method by approximating the free surface and potential function through different Fourier series, with the truncation of the former higher than that of the latter. Numerical tests show that this modification is effective, and can notably reduce the errors of the free surface boundary conditions.     

Interaction of higher-order water waves with uniform currents

The interaction between current-free higher-order water waves with a wave-free uniform current normal to the wave crests is considered. The combined wave-current motion resulting from the interaction is assumed stable and irrotational. The velocity potential, dispersion relation, the particle kinematics and pressure distribution up to the third order in wave amplitude are developed. The conservation of mean mass, momentum and energy, together with the dispersion relation on the free surface are used to derive a set of four nonlinear equations, through which the relationship between wave-free current, current-free wave and the combined wave-current parameters is established. Numerical results for a range of current values are also presented.     

Time domain three-dimensional fully nonlinear computations of steady body–wave interaction problem

Three-dimensional fully nonlinear waves generated by moving disturbances with steady forward speed without motions are solved using a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian method in terms of an indirect boundary integral method and a Runge–Kutta time marching approach which integrates the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions with respect to time.A moving computational window is used in the computations by truncating the fluid domain (the free surface) into a computational domain. The computational window maintains the computational domain and tracks the free surface profile by a node-shifting scheme applied within it. An implicit implement of far field condition is enforced automatically at the truncation boundary of the computational window.Numerical computations are applied to free surface waves generated by Wigley and Series 60 hulls for the steady problem. The present numerical results are presented and compared with existing linear theory, experimental measurements, and other numerical nonlinear computations. The comparisons show satisfactory agreements for these hydrodynamic problems.     

Internal wave generation in an improved two-dimensional Boussinesq model

A set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion in deeper water is solved numerically using a fourth order accurate predictor-corrector method. The model can be used to simulate the evolution of relatively long, weakly nonlinear waves in water of constant or variable depth provided the bed slope is of the same order of magnitude as the frequency dispersion parameter. By performing a linearized stability analysis, the phase and amplitude portraits of the numerical schemes are quantified, providing important information on practical grid resolutions in time and space. In contrast to previous models of the same kind, the incident wave field is generated inside the fluid domain by considering the scattered wave field in one part of the fluid domain and the total wave field in the other. Consequently, waves leaving the fluid domain are absorbed almost perfectly in the boundary regions by employment of damping terms in the mass and momentum equations. Additionally, the form of the incident regular wave field is computed by a Fourier approximation method which satisfies the governing equations accurately in water of constant depth. Since the Fourier approximation method requires an Eulerian mean current below wave trough level or a net mass transport velocity to be specified, the method can be used to study the interaction of waves and currents in closed as well as open basins. Several computational examples are given. These illustrate the potential of the wave generation method and the capability of the developed model.     

Fast computation of the transient motions of moving vessels in irregular ocean waves

A fast time-domain method is developed in this paper for the real-time prediction of the six degree of freedom motions of a vessel traveling in an irregular seaway in infinitely deep water. The fully coupled unsteady ship motion problem is solved by time-stepping the linearized boundary conditions on both the free surface and body surface. A velocity-based boundary integral method is then used to solve the Laplace equation at every time step for the fluid kinematics, while a scalar integral equation is solved for the total fluid pressure. The boundary integral equations are applied to both the physical fluid domain outside the body and a fictitious fluid region inside the body, enabling use of the fast Fourier transform method to evaluate the free surface integrals. The computational efficiency of the scheme is further improved through use of the method of images to eliminate source singularities on the free surface while retaining vortex/dipole singularities that decay more rapidly in space. The resulting numerical algorithm runs 2–3 times faster than real time on a standard desktop computer. Numerical predictions are compared to prior published results for the transient motions of a hemisphere and laboratory measurements of the motions of a free running vessel in oblique waves with good agreement.     

Internal wave generation in an improved two-dimensional Boussinesq model

A set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion in deeper water is solved numerically using a fourth order accurate predictor-corrector method. The model can be used to simulate the evolution of relatively long, weakly nonlinear waves in water of constant or variable depth provided the bed slope is of the same order of magnitude as the frequency dispersion parameter. By performing a linearized stability analysis, the phase and amplitude portraits of the numerical schemes are quantified, providing important information on practical grid resolutions in time and space. In contrast to previous models of the same kind, the incident wave field is generated inside the fluid domain by considering the scattered wave field in one part of the fluid domain and the total wave field in the other. Consequently, waves leaving the fluid domain are absorbed almost perfectly in the boundary regions by employment of damping terms in the mass and momentum equations. Additionally, the form of the incident regular wave field is computed by a Fourier approximation method which satisfies the governing equations accurately in water of constant depth. Since the Fourier approximation method requires an Eulerian mean current below wave trough level or a net mass transport velocity to be specified, the method can be used to study the interaction of waves and currents in closed as well as open basins. Several computational examples are given. These illustrate the potential of the wave generation method and the capability of the developed model.     

Wave deformation and vortex generation in water waves propagating over a submerged dike

The Navier–Stokes equations and the exact free surface boundary conditions are solved to simulate wave deformation and vortex generation in water waves propagating over a submerged dike. Incident waves are generated by a piston-type wavemaker set up in the computational domain. Numerical results are compared with experimental data in order to confirm the validity of the numerical model. The fast Fourier transform and a wave resolution technique are applied to decompose the transformed waves and the higher harmonics. Effects of different parameters on wave transformation and vortex generation are studied systematically. These parameters include the Ursell number, the Keulegan–Carpenter number, the water depth ratio, the Reynolds number, the length aspect ratio of the dike, and the type of dike.     

波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的耦合数学模型

建立了波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的耦合数学模型,波浪域的控制方程为雷诺时均方程和k-ε紊流模型。对于计算域的入射波采用推板式造波,它可以是线性波、椭圆余弦波和孤立波。采用PLIC-VOF法追踪波浪自由表面。对于多孔介质内的孔隙流场采用非线性Forchheimer方程,两区域共享连续方程,最后导出的波浪域与孔隙流域的压力修正方程具有完全相同的形式,利用这个方程能够同时而不是分别求解波浪场和孔隙流场,避免了在内部边界上给定匹配条件,实现了波浪场与孔隙流场的同步耦合。波浪与粗颗粒海床、平底床面上抛石潜堤及斜坡上抛石潜堤相互作用的验证计算结果表明该模型可用于研究波浪与大孔隙多孔介质相互作用的问题。     

强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值模型检验

采用同位网格有限差分法,建立了强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值计算模型。以稳恒波Fourier近似解给定入射波边界条件,对均匀水深深水和浅水域不同非线性的行进波、缓坡地形上深水至浅水域的浅水变形波、以及缓坡和陡坡地形上的波浪水槽实验进行了数值计算,并将计算结果与解析解、解析数值解以及实验值进行了较为详细的比较,从而检验了模型的色散性、非线性以及不同底坡下非线性波的浅水变形性能。     

Numerical simulation of non-linear regular and focused waves in an infinite water-depth

Inviscid three-dimensional free surface wave motions are simulated using a novel quadratic higher order boundary element model (HOBEM) based on potential theory for irrotational, incompressible fluid flow in an infinite water-depth. The free surface boundary conditions are fully non-linear. Based on the use of images, a channel Green function is developed and applied to the present model so that two lateral surfaces of an infinite-depth wave tank can be excluded from the calculation domain. In order to generate incident waves and dissipate outgoing waves, a non-reflective wave generator, composed of a series of vertically aligned point sources in the computational domain, is used in conjunction with upstream and downstream damping layers. Numerical experiments are carried out, with linear and fully non-linear, regular and focused waves. It can be seen from the results that the present approach is effective in generating a specified wave profile in an infinite water-depth without reflection at the open boundaries, and fully non-linear numerical simulations compare well with theoretical solutions. The present numerical technique is aimed at efficient modelling of the non-linear wave interactions with ocean structures in deep water.