热带风暴过程中珊瑚礁坪示踪砂运移的现场实验研究

１９９５年１０月在小东海珊瑚礁海岸的礁坪上进行了示踪砂运动的现场实验。本次实验对浪,流以及示踪砂采样作了同步观测。根据所获的实验数据,分析在９５１６号热带风暴天气过程礁坪上示踪砂运移的基本规律。在一级近似下,测定并计算了泥沙在波生流作用下的漂移速度与流速比因子０．００２,混合深度小于２ｃｍ。这一结果与其它已往结果相比明显小得多。     

Offshore sand sources for beach replenishment: Potential borrows on the continental shelf of the Eastern Gulf of Mexico

Erosion of sandy beaches is a worldwide problem that elicits innovative geoengineer‐ing techniques to reduce adverse impacts of shoreline retreat. Beach replenishment has emerged as the “soft”; shore‐stabilization technique of choice for mitigating beach erosion. This method of shore protection involves the addition of sand to the littoral sediment budget for sacrificial purposes. Because inland sand sources are often uneconomical or impractical to use, and known nearshore sources are limited, finding adequate quantities of suitable sand on the inner continental shelf is often vital to beach replenishment projects. The technical studies of survey and materials analysis that identify and delineate usable sand sources are sometimes almost as expensive as small‐project dredging, pumping, and placing the sand on the beach as fill. Inadequate quantity or substandard quality of shelf sand, as well as often‐prohibitive overhead expenses, thus compel shoreline managers to seek suitable sand sources offshore.

In the study area off the central‐west coast of Florida, offshore potential borrow areas (PBAs) were identified on the basis of studies conducted in reconnoitory and detailed phases. Sophisticated state‐of‐the‐art equipment used in this investigation provided more detailed subbottom mapping information than is normally obtained with conventional seismic equipment. An example of sand exploration studies was incorporated in a 215‐km² survey of offshore areas by conducting bathymetric surveys and subbottom seismic profiling, collecting jet probes, grab samples, and vibrocores, and analyzing sediment grading in subsamples from vibrocores. These combined analyses indicated that at least 8.8 ×10⁶ m³ of sand is available in potential borrow areas from 7.0 to 12 km offshore in water depths of 8.0 to 11.5 m. In the PBAs, mean grain size of sand falls into the range 0.13–0.53 mm, sorting averages 0.65–1.31ø, and the overall silt content varies from 3.9–8.5%. High silt contents (13–19%) mapped in some areas make these sedimentary deposits unsuitable as fill for artificial beach renourishment.     

Carbonate Sediment Deposits on the Reef Front Around Oahu, Hawaii

Large sediment deposits on the reef front around Oahu are a possible resource for replenishing eroded beaches. High-resolution subbottom profiles clearly depict the deposits in three study areas: Kailua Bay off the windward coast, Makua to Kahe Point off the leeward coast, and Camp Erdman to Waimea off the north coast. Most of the sediment is in water depths between 20 and 100 m, resting on submerged shelves created during lowstands of sea level. The mapped deposits have a volume of about 4 × 10⁸ m³ in water depths less than 100 m, being thickest off the mouth of channels carved into the modern insular shelf, from which most of the sediment issues. Vibracore samples contain various amounts of sediment of similar size to the sand on Oahu beaches, with the most compatible prospects located off Makaha, Haleiwa, and Camp Erdman, and the least compatible ones located in Kailua Bay. Laboratory tests show a positive correlation of abrasion with Halimeda content: samples from Kailua Bay suffered high amounts of attrition, but others were comparable to tested beach samples. The common gray color of the offshore sediment, aesthetically undesirable for sand on popular tourist beaches, was diminished in the laboratory by soaking in heated hydrogen peroxide.     

Carbonate Sediment Deposits on the Reef Front Around Oahu,Hawaii

Large sediment deposits on the reef front around Oahu are a possible resource for replenishing eroded beaches. High-resolution subbottom profiles clearly depict the deposits in three study areas: Kailua Bay off the windward coast, Makua to Kahe Point off the leeward coast, and Camp Erdman to Waimea off the north coast. Most of the sediment is in water depths between 20 and 100?m, resting on submerged shelves created during lowstands of sea level. The mapped deposits have a volume of about 4?×?10⁸?m³ in water depths less than 100?m, being thickest off the mouth of channels carved into the modern insular shelf, from which most of the sediment issues. Vibracore samples contain various amounts of sediment of similar size to the sand on Oahu beaches, with the most compatible prospects located off Makaha, Haleiwa, and Camp Erdman, and the least compatible ones located in Kailua Bay. Laboratory tests show a positive correlation of abrasion with Halimeda content: samples from Kailua Bay suffered high amounts of attrition, but others were comparable to tested beach samples. The common gray color of the offshore sediment, aesthetically undesirable for sand on popular tourist beaches, was diminished in the laboratory by soaking in heated hydrogen peroxide.     

南海九章环礁中牛轭礁和西门礁新生沙洲沉积特征与动态

南沙群岛的珊瑚礁以环礁形式存在, 拥有各具特色的地貌形态。九章环礁中的牛轭礁和西门礁是两座发育有新生沙洲的环礁, 代表灰沙岛形成前一个重要的过渡性地貌演化阶段。这两处新生沙洲表层沉积物样品的粒度分析表明: 沉积物主要组分为珊瑚碎屑, 长轴中值粒径在14~45mm之间, 属于砾石级别; 样品分选系数在4.5~31之间, 分选性很差; 球度值为0.52~0.68, 球度差。粒度特征值中, 中值粒径具有随着到水边线距离的增大而升高的趋势, 而分选性和球度与距水边线距离关系不大。整体上中值粒径与分选系数呈正相关关系, 而与球度呈负相关关系。历史文献记载和卫星图像表明, 牛轭礁和西门礁上的新生沙洲都是近年来才形成的, 与风暴过程及冬季风有关。牛轭礁上沙洲向北迁移, 同时其长轴向东南方向延伸; 西门礁上沙洲整体向东南方向迁移, 并形成回弯形沙嘴形态。新生沙洲的出现与珊瑚碎屑物质供给变化或风暴浪作用变化的关系还需进一步探讨。     

海南岛鹿回头珊瑚礁研究进展

前人在海南岛鹿回头珊瑚礁区所做的工作主要集中于以下三方面：(1)鹿回头珊瑚礁区地貌的粗略描述;(2)鹿回头珊瑚礁记录的古海平面研究：(3)鹿回头珊瑚礁记录的现代环境信息研究。通过野外实地考察,将鹿回头珊瑚礁分为8个生物地貌带：礁前斜坡活珊瑚带、礁缘砾石突起脊带、外礁坪带、中礁坪带、内礁坪带、海滩、沙堤、洼地,它们是全新世海平呵和气候环境变化的产物。关于本区珊瑚礁的研究,结合全球珊瑚礁与环境的研究来看,许多工作有待于展开和补充,大致可从以下4个方面进行深入研究：(1)珊瑚礁的生物地貌过程;(2)珊瑚及珊瑚礁的高分辨率环境记录;(3)珊瑚对海洋环境污染的记录：(4)珊瑚礁生态系统与社会、经济及人文系统的关系及其可持续发展。     

珊瑚礁海岸侵蚀的研究方法

珊瑚礁海岸海滩和礁坪是海岸作用是活跃的部分，也是近几十年来与海岸发育，海岸侵蚀联系最密切的部分，这一部分高潮时被淹没，低潮时完全出露或大部分出露，使得在此进行地质填图成为可能，这样的地质图可以提供许多信息，如沉积物粒度分布规律，沉积物来源和搬运方向，海滩岩所指示的古海岸线位置，人类活动特别是海岸工程对沉积物分布的影响以及海岸线的变化过程和趋势，在礁坪上开挖的人工水道内测流，能够了解水流的性质以及是否有足够的速度搬运沉积物，从而了解人工水道对海岸的影响和预测海岸的状态，这些方法也可以用于大陆泥质和砂质第岸侵蚀的研究。     

南海珊瑚岛礁地貌遥感识别研究

南海珊瑚岛礁总体处于退化状态,卫星遥感可以实现珊瑚礁区底质演变的监测.本文以西沙群岛海域赵述岛为研究区域,以Landsat-8卫星遥感影像为研究数据,对浅海地貌变化进行遥感分析.将影像进行水深校正和波段组合,使用最大似然法进行珊瑚礁地貌分类,可以清晰的识别灰沙岛、礁坪、礁前坡、泻湖坡、暗滩和海面六种地貌类型,以Worl...     

Undisturbed Strata Succession Sampling Technology and the Engineering Geological Characteristics of an Atoll in the Southern South China Sea

Coral reef calcareous sediment, a special category of rock-soil material, has representative geological structure and environmental characteristics. It is widely distributed in shallow areas of the tropical ocean; therefore the exploration instruments and technologies for engineering geology studies of coral reef calcareous sediments are very different from those used in land or deep-sea. Obtaining undisturbed cores from the Holocene unconsolidated stratum of coral reefs has been a key problem in the field of marine geology and environment surveying. The authors have designed a novel floating drilling platform equipped with a drilling machine, and successfully achieved undisturbed cores from both reef flats (with water depth 0.5 to 2 m) and a enclosed lagoon (with water depth 2–12 m) of Yongshu Reef (9°32–9°42 N, 112°52–113°04 E), southern South China Sea. Based on the detailed observation on the cores and the analysis from engineering geology, Yongshu Reef was split into reef three engineering geological zones: leading edge, reef flat (including outer reef flat, middle reef flat and inner reef flat) and lagoon. The sediments are classified in the stratum as fine sand, medium sand, coarse sand, gravel and weak-cemented reef limestone.     

Suspended matter transport in coral reef waters of the Abrolhos Bank, Brazil

The coral reef system of the Abrolhos Bank, Brazil, is located between 10 and 65 km off the coast. Suspended particulate matter between the coast and the inner arc of the reef was mainly composed of kaolinite clay and reworked fossil carbonate fragments, resuspended from nearshore shoals. Strong permanent and tidal alongshore currents in the nearshore channel together with the geomorphological configuration of the inner arc formed an efficient hydrodynamic and topographic barrier to offshore transport of land-derived material. Most of the material was being transported alongshore. Suspended particulate matter between the inner and outer arcs was dominated by carbonate shells, coral fragments, and needle-shaped biogenic opal, and the reef system was in large part being dominated by the oligotrophic waters of the Brazil Current.     

海南岛的滨海旅游

海南岛位处中国的最面端,为热带季风气候区,地理位置优越,旅游资源特别是滨海旅游资源丰富,阳光、海水、沙滩、绿色、空气等要素齐全,再加上珊瑚礁、红树林等独特的海洋生态系统,为海南进行生态旅游及从观光旅游向观光度假旅游提供了良好的条件。海南建省后旅游业发展迅速,旅游景点和旅游设施逐渐完善,旅游市场不断规范。今后的发展趋势将是生态旅游,特别是在珊瑚礁和红树林区域,将科学考察、探险与休闲结合,在进行旅游的     

海滩-珊瑚礁系统风暴响应特征研究——以1409号台风“威马逊”对清澜港海岸影响为例

珊瑚礁海岸在我国热带地区广泛发育,海滩-珊瑚礁海岸的动力地貌过程是认识该类海岸的关键。本文基于对海南铜鼓岭-高隆湾岸段的台风"威马逊"前后跟踪观测,讨论了海滩风暴响应特征及其与珊瑚礁发育之间的联系。结果表明该岸段海滩在"威马逊"风暴作用下响应最为剧烈的区带位于平均海平面(MSL)以上,表现为后滨冲越,以及岸线蚀退、滩肩变窄、滩面侵蚀等响应特征。海滩风暴响应特征与近岸珊瑚礁发育密切相关,在无珊瑚或珊瑚受损的岸段海滩响应剧烈,剖面平均变化率(MPC)为其他岸段的3~6倍,珊瑚礁通过消耗波能对相邻海滩提供良好保护。海滩-珊瑚礁系统对风暴的响应特征受控于珊瑚礁对海岸波浪的消耗能力和海滩固有的缓冲能力。基于本文研究结果,归纳出风暴极端动力条件下海滩-珊瑚礁海岸的4种风暴响应模式。     

南图瓦卢礁群区重力资料的初步分析

1976年3月至1978年10月,国家海洋局“向阳红05”号海洋调查船(14,000吨)对太平洋中部海域先后进行了四次远洋综合科学调查,为研究该海域的自然环境提供了大量的地质-地球物理、水文、气象、生物、化学资料,并在南纬11°41'.2,西经178°20'.5处新发现了一个水深仅32米的珊瑚礁滩——“向阳礁”.四次远洋调查共完成的重力、水深测线总长为57,492公里.     

金属离子种类对珊瑚砂微生物固化影响研究

选用巴斯德芽孢杆菌,对微生物诱导钙离子、镁离子以及铁离子形成碳酸盐固化松散珊瑚砂颗粒的效果进行对比研究。试验结果表明,在相同试验方法、相同注入次数的条件下,微生物诱导形成的碳酸钙和碳酸镁能将珊瑚砂松散颗粒固化成为整体,加入铁离子的试样因为反应过程的原因没有成功。通过渗透性、干密度变化、无侧限抗压强度及微观结构等方面进行对比分析,钙离子试样相对于镁离子试样,具有固化过程平稳、干密度增量大、强度高、微观颗粒包裹更好的优点。综合试验结果得出,钙离子是现阶段微生物固化珊瑚砂较为理想的金属离子。本试验首次探讨了金属离子种类对珊瑚砂微生物固化效果的影响,为微生物固化技术提供了一定理论基础,对该技术的进一步应用具有一定借鉴意义。     

曹妃甸二期围海造地工程取沙物理模型设计及验证

为解决曹妃甸首钢围海造地工程用沙问题,计划在曹妃甸甸头东侧滩涂取沙,因关系到曹妃甸岸滩的稳定性,拟通过波浪泥沙物理模型进行试验研究,探讨取沙对岸滩向/离岸运动的影响。基于河口海岸物理模型相似理论,探讨了模型比尺的确定方法及模型沙的选取;在缺乏合适验证资料的情况下,通过三种途径对物理模型的合理性和可靠性进行验证试验,验证试验表明,本模型可将二维沙滩剖面特性研究成果应用于三维条件。     

深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化

The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally.     

EVOLUTIONAL PATTERN OF THE CORAL SAND ISLANDS IN THE XISHA AREA

Sand island or cay is the dominant type of coral reef islands in the South China Sea. This paper gives in detail the sand islands composed of loose accumulational materials on the atoll reef flats in the Xisha Islands, their types, characteristics of morphological structure and evolutional pattern and dynamics.     

我国硬式护岸、渔港工程和人工岛等3类典型海岸工程对相邻海滩的影响研究

我国硬式护岸、渔港工程和人工岛等3类典型海岸工程对相邻海滩有显著影响.本研究以泉州青山湾护岸、泉州崇武中心渔港、海口南海明珠人工岛等建设前后海滩变化为例,开展对海滩岸线形态及部分典型剖面形态的对比分析.结果表明,临海硬式护岸岸前海滩发生明显下蚀,护岸下游海滩岸线侵蚀后退,发育侵蚀热点,剖面伴有下蚀;渔港工程拦沙堤附近岸线局部淤涨,下游海滩岸线大范围侵蚀后退,出现侵蚀热点,侵蚀热点处剖面明显下蚀;人工岛后波影区内海滩淤积,形成沙岬或连岛沙坝突出体,突出体两侧岸线均发生不同程度侵蚀后退.通过分析典型工程案例,探讨了3类海岸工程对相邻海滩的影响方式、影响尺度和原因,对比分析不同类型海岸工程对相邻海滩的负面影响,可为海岸工程建设管理和海滩保护提供参考.     

Spatial and temporal variation of diverse inter‐tidal algal assemblages in Southwest O‘ahu

Spatial and temporal variation in tropical inter‐tidal communities is poorly known, making predictions about the effects of climate change and other anthropogenic disturbances difficult. Along Southwest O‘ahu, Hawai'i, local residents are concerned about the environmental effects of coastal development and the perceived loss of targeted algal species, which are collected for human consumption. To describe the coastal benthic community and better understand the processes that form and maintain it, the abundance and composition of macroalgae were sampled in the region's inter‐tidal zone from 2006 to 2015. Sixty‐six macroalgal species and two broad algal assemblages were identified that corresponded to substrate topography and sand influence at a similar tidal elevation. Along flat carbonate benches with a sand beach, Phaeophyceae and Rhodophytes occurred in almost equal proportions, while shores with slightly more topographic relief and angular substrate were dominated by Rhodophytes. Foliose or turf algal forms were most common. Surveys captured the local invasion of an alga, Avrainvillea sp. and significant declines in abundant macroalgae in 2015 after a period of unseasonably warm, calm water. Temporal changes in algal assemblages were related to maximum water temperature and wave height but not precipitation. Thus, algal assemblages appear to be structured by local beach morphology as they interact with sand and wave activity and episodically by unusual weather events. However, manipulation and continuous monitoring of the algal assemblages coupled to sensing of the localized environment is necessary to confirm factors related to assembly maintenance and recent species shifts.     

西沙群岛现代滨岸的风暴沉积

本文仅以1984年10号风暴为例,讨论了风暴前后的水动力条件及路径变化.重点阐述了该次风暴对西沙珊瑚礁区的潮间和潮上带现代砾堤和海滩的影响.描述了珊瑚礁区的砾堤沉积物的空间分布及垂向序列,并对沙质海滩的风暴搬运过程进行了适当的讨论.西沙砾质砾堤和沙质海滩无论从沉积序列上还是从沉积物的结构成份上,都存在着较大的差异,它们是在一种水动力条件下形成的两种不同的沉积体,在沉积过程中各有自身的沉积特点.本文尝试性地从上述角度提出一种沉积序列的空间格局,以便为古代沉积物的研究提供一些滨岸风暴沉积的信息.