Submarine Sand Resources, Southeastern Virginia-Contributions from Year 9 and Year 10 of Virginia's Continental Margins Program

Virginia's year 9 and year 10 funds from the Continental Shelf Program were used to supplement other work funded by the Minerals Management Service in an ongoing Cooperative Agreement focused on the area offshore of southeastern Virginia. Year 9 and year 10 funds facilitated interpretation of subbottom profiles and the analysis of sediment samples from cores and grabs. On Virginia's sediment-starved continental shelf, deposits of material potentially suitable for use as beach nourishment or, perhaps, as construction aggregate occur in three stratigraphic settings, each with specific characteristics of morphology, grain-size gradients, likelihood of discovery, and physical ease of exploitation. All must be verified with a careful program of coring. Modern shoals generally are easier to identify, prove, and access than either filled channels or lenticular facies. Shoals usually are identifiable on nautical charts and characteristically have a definite lower boundarythat can be seen in subbottom profiles. In most cases, the base of the shoal coincides with the level of the surrounding sea floor. Filled channels are readily identifiable on subbottom profiles but may have a narrow, sinuous form and steep lateral gradients in sediment properties. Buried lenticular facies of good-quality sand usually are found only fortuitously. As the lateral and often vertical gradients in geotechnical properties usually are low, the lenticular facies can be mined with a lesser concern for the consequences of violating the deposit's limits than with the other two types of deposit. There are three types of filled paleochannels in the study area. (1) Relatively near-surface, generally small, roughly shore normal channels most likely mark the migration of tidal inlets across the shelf during the most recent transgression. (2) Small, relatively wide and relatively shallow generally shore parallel channels may be filled back-barrier or lagoonal channels. (3) Larger channels trending across the shelf probably result from riverine flow. The complexity of the seismostratigraphy of the Quaternary deposits on south eastern Virginia's inner continental shelf is a result of series of high-frequency (fifth-order, 10-20,000 y), low-amplitude (20-30 m) variations in sea level that occurred during the last highstand, roughly 80,000 to 130,000 BP. The evidence of the small oscillations in sea level is best seen in the regions that were between the shoreline and wave base, today's inner shelf; however, the very low rates of deposition on the shelf make it difficult to correlate specific reflectors or beds or, at times, to distinguish between fifth-and fourth-order changes. Results for the continuing studies already have been used in the determination to mine several hundred thousand cubic meters of sand from Sandbridge Shoal for use on a Navy-owned facility and in consideration of mining greater quantities of sand from Sandbridge and other shoals for use in local beach nourishment and hurricane protection efforts.     

Seismic Reflection and Vibracoring Studies of the Continental Shelf Offshore Central and Western Long Island,New York

The ridge-and-swale topography on the continental shelf south of Fire Island, New York, is characterized by northeast-trending linear shoals that are shore attached and shore oblique on the inner shelf and isolated and shore parallel on the middle shelf. High-resolution seismic reflection profiles show that the ridges and swales occur independent of, and are not controlled by, the presence of internal structures (for example, filled tidal inlet channels, paleobarrier strata) or underlying structure (for example, high-relief Cretaceous unconformity). Grab samples of surficial sediments on the shelf south of Fire Island average 98 % sand. Locally, benthic fauna increase silt and clay content through fecal pellet production or increase the content of gravel-size material by contribution of their fragmented shell remains. Surficial sand on the ridges is unimodal at 0.33 mm (medium sand, about 50 mesh), and surficial sand in troughs is bimodal at 0.33 mm and 0.15 mm (fine sand, about 100 mesh). In addition to seismic studies, 26 vibracores were recovered from the continental shelf in state and federal waters from south of Rockaway and Long Beaches, Long Island, New York. Stratigraphic and sedimentological data gleaned from these cores were used to outline the geologic framework in the study area. A variety of sedimentary features were noted in the cores, including burrow-mottled sections of sand in a finer silty-sand, rhythmic lamination of sand and silty-sand that reflect cyclic changes in sediment transport, layers of shell hash and shells that probably represent tempestites, and changes from dark color to light color in the sediments that probably represent changes in the oxidation reduction conditions in the area with time. The stratigraphic units identified are an upper, generally oxidized,nearshore facies, an underlying fine-to medium-sand and silty-clay unit considered to be an estuarine facies, and a lower, coarse-grained, deeply oxidized, cross-laminated preHolocene unit. Grain-size analysis shows that medium-to fine-grained sand makes up most (68-99 %) of the surficial sediments. Gravel exists in trace amounts up to 19 %. Silt ranges between 3 % and 42 %, and clay ranges from 1 % to 10 %.     

Seismic Reflection and Vibracoring Studies of the Continental Shelf Offshore Central and Western Long Island, New York

The ridge-and-swale topography on the continental shelf south of Fire Island, New York, is characterized by northeast-trending linear shoals that are shore attached and shore oblique on the inner shelf and isolated and shore parallel on the middle shelf. High-resolution seismic reflection profiles show that the ridges and swales occur independent of, and are not controlled by, the presence of internal structures (for example, filled tidal inlet channels, paleobarrier strata) or underlying structure (for example, high-relief Cretaceous unconformity). Grab samples of surficial sediments on the shelf south of Fire Island average 98 % sand. Locally, benthic fauna increase silt and clay content through fecal pellet production or increase the content of gravel-size material by contribution of their fragmented shell remains. Surficial sand on the ridges is unimodal at 0.33 mm (medium sand, about 50 mesh), and surficial sand in troughs is bimodal at 0.33 mm and 0.15 mm (fine sand, about 100 mesh). In addition to seismic studies, 26 vibracores were recovered from the continental shelf in state and federal waters from south of Rockaway and Long Beaches, Long Island, New York. Stratigraphic and sedimentological data gleaned from these cores were used to outline the geologic framework in the study area. A variety of sedimentary features were noted in the cores, including burrow-mottled sections of sand in a finer silty-sand, rhythmic lamination of sand and silty-sand that reflect cyclic changes in sediment transport, layers of shell hash and shells that probably represent tempestites, and changes from dark color to light color in the sediments that probably represent changes in the oxidation reduction conditions in the area with time. The stratigraphic units identified are an upper, generally oxidized,nearshore facies, an underlying fine-to medium-sand and silty-clay unit considered to be an estuarine facies, and a lower, coarse-grained, deeply oxidized, cross-laminated preHolocene unit. Grain-size analysis shows that medium-to fine-grained sand makes up most (68-99 %) of the surficial sediments. Gravel exists in trace amounts up to 19 %. Silt ranges between 3 % and 42 %, and clay ranges from 1 % to 10 %.     

Sedimentology of the New Hampshire Inner Continental Shelf Based on Subbottom Seismics,Side-Scan Sonar,Bathymetry, and Bottom Samples

Typical of glaciated environments, the inner continental shelf of New Hampshire is composed of bedrock outcrops, remnants of glacial deposits (for example, drumlins), sand and gravel deposits, as well as muddier sediments farther offshore. A number of previous studies have defined the general trends of the New Hampshire inner shelf from the coarser deposits nearer the shore to the muddier outer basins. Most recently, a seismic survey (150 km of side-scan sonar and subbottom seismic profiles), as well as bottom sediment sampling (74 stations), has provided a detailed bottom map of the southern New Hampshire shelf area (landward of the 30-m contour). The surficial sediments within this area range from very fine sand to gravel. Bedrock outcrops are common. The seismic survey indicated several large sand deposits exceeding 6-8 m in thickness that occur relatively close to the coast. These sedimentary units, which are within 3 km of the shoreline, are composed of fine to medium sands. Examination of the general morphology and depositional setting indicates at least some of these features are probably relic ebb tidal delta shoals. However, a large eroding drumlin occurs between two of the sand bodies and may represent the source of these deposits. Additional work is needed to verify the origin of these sediment bodies.     

秦皇岛金梦湾海滩侵蚀和海滩养护

金梦湾海滩是秦皇岛海港区西部较大的浴场,地理位置优越,但在养滩工程前曾遭受着严重的侵蚀,侵蚀速率在1.26~1.98 m/a之间,最大可达3.86 m/a,海滩宽度为40~90 m,沉积物粗化严重,海滩质量较差,严重影响了海滩的旅游功能。海滩修复工程主要采用近岸补沙和建设生态离岸潜堤的方式,其中近岸补沙方量为172.5×104 m3,离岸潜堤3条。工程后经过1年多的观测,海滩仅在工程后初期侵蚀量较大,之后海滩侵蚀趋势明显减弱,海滩逐渐向平衡状态发展。养滩15个月后,海滩上仍保留了83.4%的沙体,养滩效果良好。     

Sedimentary balances (land and sea) with special reference to the Icelandic South Coast from Torlakshöfn to Dyrholaey. River nourishment of shores — Practical analogies on artificial nourishment

The sedimentary balances between land and sea are discussed with particular reference to the 140 km long pocket beach between two major headlands on the sandy Icelandic South Coast. Rivers supply large quantities of material to the coast. Comparing the known transport of material by the rivers to the area of the continental shelf, and using the recorded sea level rise at the Port of Reykjavik a balance was found. The development of equilibrium profiles in relation to profile geometry, grain sizes and outer boundaries for material movement by wave action is discussed, and practical suggestions on future nourishment procedures are presented. “Profile nourishment” will be more practical and economical than “beach nourishment”.     

Offshore sand sources for beach replenishment: Potential borrows on the continental shelf of the Eastern Gulf of Mexico

Erosion of sandy beaches is a worldwide problem that elicits innovative geoengineer‐ing techniques to reduce adverse impacts of shoreline retreat. Beach replenishment has emerged as the “soft”; shore‐stabilization technique of choice for mitigating beach erosion. This method of shore protection involves the addition of sand to the littoral sediment budget for sacrificial purposes. Because inland sand sources are often uneconomical or impractical to use, and known nearshore sources are limited, finding adequate quantities of suitable sand on the inner continental shelf is often vital to beach replenishment projects. The technical studies of survey and materials analysis that identify and delineate usable sand sources are sometimes almost as expensive as small‐project dredging, pumping, and placing the sand on the beach as fill. Inadequate quantity or substandard quality of shelf sand, as well as often‐prohibitive overhead expenses, thus compel shoreline managers to seek suitable sand sources offshore.

In the study area off the central‐west coast of Florida, offshore potential borrow areas (PBAs) were identified on the basis of studies conducted in reconnoitory and detailed phases. Sophisticated state‐of‐the‐art equipment used in this investigation provided more detailed subbottom mapping information than is normally obtained with conventional seismic equipment. An example of sand exploration studies was incorporated in a 215‐km² survey of offshore areas by conducting bathymetric surveys and subbottom seismic profiling, collecting jet probes, grab samples, and vibrocores, and analyzing sediment grading in subsamples from vibrocores. These combined analyses indicated that at least 8.8 ×10⁶ m³ of sand is available in potential borrow areas from 7.0 to 12 km offshore in water depths of 8.0 to 11.5 m. In the PBAs, mean grain size of sand falls into the range 0.13–0.53 mm, sorting averages 0.65–1.31ø, and the overall silt content varies from 3.9–8.5%. High silt contents (13–19%) mapped in some areas make these sedimentary deposits unsuitable as fill for artificial beach renourishment.     

Characterization of marine aggregates off Waikiki,O'ahu,Hawai'i

Researchers at the University of Hawai'i at Manoa have been working for the past several years to develop the necessary techniques for finding and quantitatively characterizing offshore unconsolidated carbonate deposits with potential for beach nourishment and use in construction aggregates for tropical island communities. This article examines particular results of this research, with special attention given to the area offshore from Waikiki Beach. Acoustic surveying, water‐jet probing to measure the thickness of unconsolidated material and three different sampling methods were used in this study. Two separate seismic systems were used for the subbottom profiling survey, a Datasonics Bubble‐Pulser® system and a broad‐band, frequency‐modulated ("chirp") prototype system.

The following conclusions were reached. (1) Many different types of sediment underlie tropical island carbonate sand deposits and serve as refusing horizons to jet probing. Examples include consolidated or unconsolidated reef debris, beach rock, cemented sand, and various types of conglomerates formed from rhodoliths (coralline algae) or reef detritus. (2) Massive coral growth over clastic deposits is not a common offshore feature in this area, though it does occur in some areas off the Reef Runway. (3) Matrices of the coral Porites compressa, in‐filled with sand, may have acoustic properties similar to those of the sand bodies. Such deposits may be difficult to distinguish from unconsolidated deposits from seismic records alone. (4) Significant new prospects for offshore aggregates were found in the insular shelf offshore from Southern O'ahu. A total of 5,100,000 m³ were mapped off Waikiki. The Makua Shelf deposits in this area presently appear to be the best prospects for commercial development.     

Reduction of sand demand for shore protection

Beach nourishment is an environmentally preferred method of shore protection, but the annual sand requirement may lead to substantial maintenance costs. The shoreline processes, involving the surf zone, beach and dune, are reviewed with the aim of reducing the annual sand requirement of eroding shorelines. It is shown that surf zones with equilibrium profiles, on which the wave energy conversion is evenly distributed across the surf zone, from experience for given conditions indicate least loss of sand. On steep, eroding shorelines it may be difficult to establish an equilibrium profile. For such cases, the use of perched surf zones is recommended, which are supported at the seaward limit by an underwater sill. For reduction of littoral transport, the use of pervious pile groynes is recommended. These are arguably more efficient than impervious groynes. The sand loss from a usually dry beach by raised water levels is shown to be a function of the beach slope and is least when the storm waves at raised water levels do not cut an erosion escarpment. The loss of sand from a dune by infrequent severe storm tides can be prevented with the aid of a built-in membrane. These sand losses are usually large and constitute an uneconomic use of this sand resource. The proposed concepts and measures are linked to existing knowledge, augmented by data from the large wave flume (LWF) in Germany and field data from the North and Baltic Sea coasts.     

Stratigraphic framework of sediment-starved sand ridges on a mixed siliciclastic/carbonate inner shelf; west-central Florida

Seismic reflection profiles and vibracores have revealed that an inner shelf, sand-ridge field has developed over the past few thousand years situated on an elevated, broad bedrock terrace. This terrace extends seaward of a major headland associated with the modern barrier-island coastline of west-central Florida. The overall geologic setting is a low-energy, sediment-starved, mixed siliciclastic/carbonate inner continental shelf supporting a thin sedimentary veneer. This veneer is arranged in a series of subparallel, shore-oblique, and to a minor extent, shore-parallel sand ridges. Seven major facies are present beneath the ridges, including a basal Neogene limestone gravel facies and a blue-green clay facies indicative of dominantly authigenic sedimentation. A major sequence boundary separates these older units from Holocene age, organic-rich mud facies (marsh), which grades upward into a muddy sand facies (lagoon or shallow open shelf/seagrass meadows). Cores reveal that the muddy shelf facies is either in sharp contact or grades upward into a shelly sand facies (ravinement or sudden termination of seagrass meadows). The shelly sand facies grades upward to a mixed siliciclastic/carbonate facies, which forms the sand ridges themselves. This mixed siliciclastic/carbonate facies differs from the sediment on the beach and shoreface, suggesting insignificant sediment exchange between the offshore ridges and the modern coastline. Additionally, the lack of early Holocene, pre-ridge facies in the troughs between the ridges suggests that the ridges themselves do not migrate laterally extensively. Radiocarbon dating has indicated that these sand ridges can form relatively quickly (1.3 ka) on relatively low-energy inner shelves once open-marine conditions are available, and that frequent, high-energy, storm-dominated conditions are not necessarily required. We suggest that the two inner shelf depositional models presented (open-shelf vs. migrating barrier-island) may have co-existed spatially and/or temporally to explain the distribution of facies and vertical facies contacts.     

Carbonate Sediment Deposits on the Reef Front Around Oahu,Hawaii

Large sediment deposits on the reef front around Oahu are a possible resource for replenishing eroded beaches. High-resolution subbottom profiles clearly depict the deposits in three study areas: Kailua Bay off the windward coast, Makua to Kahe Point off the leeward coast, and Camp Erdman to Waimea off the north coast. Most of the sediment is in water depths between 20 and 100?m, resting on submerged shelves created during lowstands of sea level. The mapped deposits have a volume of about 4?×?10⁸?m³ in water depths less than 100?m, being thickest off the mouth of channels carved into the modern insular shelf, from which most of the sediment issues. Vibracore samples contain various amounts of sediment of similar size to the sand on Oahu beaches, with the most compatible prospects located off Makaha, Haleiwa, and Camp Erdman, and the least compatible ones located in Kailua Bay. Laboratory tests show a positive correlation of abrasion with Halimeda content: samples from Kailua Bay suffered high amounts of attrition, but others were comparable to tested beach samples. The common gray color of the offshore sediment, aesthetically undesirable for sand on popular tourist beaches, was diminished in the laboratory by soaking in heated hydrogen peroxide.     

Carbonate Sediment Deposits on the Reef Front Around Oahu, Hawaii

Large sediment deposits on the reef front around Oahu are a possible resource for replenishing eroded beaches. High-resolution subbottom profiles clearly depict the deposits in three study areas: Kailua Bay off the windward coast, Makua to Kahe Point off the leeward coast, and Camp Erdman to Waimea off the north coast. Most of the sediment is in water depths between 20 and 100 m, resting on submerged shelves created during lowstands of sea level. The mapped deposits have a volume of about 4 × 10⁸ m³ in water depths less than 100 m, being thickest off the mouth of channels carved into the modern insular shelf, from which most of the sediment issues. Vibracore samples contain various amounts of sediment of similar size to the sand on Oahu beaches, with the most compatible prospects located off Makaha, Haleiwa, and Camp Erdman, and the least compatible ones located in Kailua Bay. Laboratory tests show a positive correlation of abrasion with Halimeda content: samples from Kailua Bay suffered high amounts of attrition, but others were comparable to tested beach samples. The common gray color of the offshore sediment, aesthetically undesirable for sand on popular tourist beaches, was diminished in the laboratory by soaking in heated hydrogen peroxide.     

海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙作用研究进展

海滩养护已经成为全球基于自然(nature-based)海岸防护的主要手段,并得到广泛应用。随着全球强风区海岸海滩养护工程数量的增加,海滩养护对海岸风沙过程产生的一系列影响逐渐得到重视。海滩养护工程形成了新的海滩地貌形态,扩大了海滩风区、增加了风沙物源、提高了滩面高程、改变了滩面沉积物,海滩地貌和沉积物组分变化引起了风沙运动过程的变化,与自然海滩风沙过程相比,有其独特的过程和特征,已经成为海岸风沙研究的热点之一。本文从海滩养护影响下的风沙环境变化、风沙活动变化以及养护海滩对沙丘的影响等3个方面梳理了国内外研究进展,提出养护海滩风沙研究存在区域不平衡以及风沙过程的综合性影响和定量化研究不足等问题,并结合我国海滩养护未来的发展趋势,从强风区养护海滩风沙运动规律、养护海滩风沙环境全要素的综合影响和风沙作用变化的模型评估等方面展望了我国养护海滩风沙研究的未来发展方向。     

海平面变化及其海岸响应

第四纪气温的大幅度冷暖变化，导致全球海平面的变化，引起陆架海侵扣海退。海岸上的各种地貌如海滩、沙坝、三角洲扣陆架沙脊等响应海平面升降而发生新的演化扣变异。东海陆架古岸线、围绕古岸线发育的陆架沙脊、陆架深切河谷扣河谷充填沉积以及冰后期海进型扣海退型沙坝的形成乖演化等沉积事件都是响应海平面升降的结果。近百年来特别是近30年全球海平面普遍上升，引起风暴潮的频度扣幅度的增大。近岸波能增强，越滩浪增多，导致海滩侵蚀，岸线后退。Bruun法则扣其他一些模型能够说明海滩随海平面上升而蚀退的规律，但在预测速率时仍存在很多问题。使用时应注意海平面变化的区域性、海滩发育的滞后性和海滩蚀退因素间的权重关系。     

不同补沙方案对海滩剖面影响的数值模拟对比分析

大量工程实践表明,海滩养护是当前抵御海岸侵蚀的常见措施。通过人为地向海滩补充沙源,以达到海岸防护、修复沙滩等目的。本文建立了XBeach一维海滩剖面演变数值模型,并与物理模型试验结果进行对比验证;计算常浪条件下不同方案补沙后海滩剖面达到平衡状态的速率;通过对比补沙工况与未补沙工况的风暴后剖面,分析风暴作用下的防护效果。结果发现,补沙量较大时,沙坝向海侧位置补沙在常浪条件下补沙效率高于滩肩补沙,在风暴条件下防护效果优于滩肩补沙。此次研究对于在实际海滩养护过程中节约施工成本、提高施工效率有着重要意义,同时对于评估沙滩养护工程效果有一定的参考价值。     

基岩陡斜岸养滩的负面作用和对策——案例分析

介绍了中外4个基岩陡斜海岸的养滩案例,说明基岩海岸水下坡一般较陡,水深较大,近海波浪未经底摩擦消能过程就逼近海岸,实行一次性卷跃破碎,强烈侵蚀海岸,塑造侵蚀地貌或在海蚀崖下高潮线附近沉积窄而薄的短裙式海滩。在这种海滩上进行开敞式抛沙养滩,往往难以成功,以致连年抛沙,连年被流失光。我国曾有一些养滩工程经历过该类沙流失干扰。按照丁坝与连续离岸潜坝组合或丁坝与平行双岸外潜坝组合模式,可以阻挡人工向前滨滩面所抛沙的外流,并能有效地消散岸外波能和阻挡沿岸移沙,保证人工抛沙养护海滩的扩宽和稳定。证明采取特定的硬工程组合可以在基岩陡斜海岸上构筑宽阔的人造海滩。     

深圳湾人造沙滩选址和修复方案

深圳湾经过近三十年的围填海活动,沿岸动力条件发生较大变化,如今自然状态下难以发育沙滩。从构建高品质游憩空间、防护海岸和提升旅游开发价值来看,沙滩是深圳湾急需的资源。为了加强人和海洋的联系、激发深圳湾的活力,建立城市自然缓冲区、化解极端风暴的威胁,以此达到防护海岸和满足居民休闲游赏需求的目的,本研究以近岸海洋要素的自然属性为主,海洋开发活动等社会属性为辅进行综合分析,并辅以数值模型进行验证,在深圳湾内选择适宜开展沙滩修复的海岸。沙滩修复选址时考虑了波浪、潮流、地形、地貌、沉积物等近岸海洋要素;数值模型包括潮流场模型、波浪模型和沙滩长期的平面演化模型。本研究案例对岸线动态变迁较大,自然状态难以发育沙滩的海岸的人造沙滩选址和设计方案提供示范与借鉴。     

Beach nourishment,a practical method of erosion control

Artificial beach nourishment, the placing of sand onto eroded beaches, is increasingly employed by coastal engineers as an alternative to structural control of shoreline erosion. Man-made beaches approximating natural forms and processes offer greater protection against storms than eroded beaches and provide increased recreational opportunities. It is hoped that maintenance nourishment will keep pace with subsidence and eustatic rise in sea level, primary causes of beach erosion. Even though negative impacts of beach restoration may be short-lived and limited in scope, sound ecological engineering practices require careful monitoring of dredging operations.     

海滩修复养护技术发展趋势与前景

海岸侵蚀是沿海各国面临的共同问题,海滩养护是当前砂质海岸保护的最佳手段,在全球范围内得到广泛应用。本文回顾了海滩养护技术的发展历程,总结了世界范围的海滩养护实践,分析各国海滩养护理念上存在的差异。以研究文献为基础,总结归纳了平面和横向剖面的补砂方式、辅助工程技术和海滩模型预测等方面的海滩养护技术研究进展,并在此基础上提出了海滩养护的未来发展趋势:①针对复杂海岸的海滩养护应用拓展;②基于沉积物管理的海滩养护修复;③从地貌系统到生态系统全面考虑的海滩养护技术;④全球砂源赤字条件下的海滩保护和修复思路。     

琼州海峡白沙门海滩冲淤的遥感分析

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