Comparison of experimental irregular water wave elevation and kinematic data with new hybrid wave model predictions

Surface water wave elevations and kinematics from four unidirectional irregular wave trains, with a Pierson and Moskowitz or JONSWAP random wave spectrum, were measured in the laboratory using resistance wave probes and a laser Doppler anemometer. The wave elevation data, velocity time series, extreme (largest) wave horizontal velocity profiles and extreme wave acceleration fields are compared with the predictions of a new wave kinematics model, named the hybrid wave model. Irregular waves are commonly viewed as the summation of many linear wave components of different frequencies, but more accurate predictions of downstream surface elevations (wave evolution) and wave kinematics are attained by considering the non-linear interactions among wave components. The hybrid wave model incorporates these non-linear wave component interactions, and its wave evolution predictions and kinematics estimates are compared with laboratory measurements in this study. Linear random wave theory, Wheeler stretching and linear extrapolation wave kinematic prediction techniques are also compared. Comparisons between measurements and hybrid wave model estimates demonstrate its improved capability to predict velocity and acceleration fields and wave evolution in two-dimensional irregular waves.     

Exploitable wave energy assessment based on ERA-Interim reanalysis data—A case study in the East China Sea and the South China Sea

Wave energy resources assessment is a very important process before the exploitation and utilization of the wave energy. At present, the existing wave energy assessment is focused on theoretical wave energy conditions for interesting areas. While the evaluation for exploitable wave energy conditions is scarcely ever performed.Generally speaking, the wave energy are non-exploitable under a high sea state and a lower sea state which must be ignored when assessing wave energy. Aiming at this situation, a case study of the East China Sea and the South China Sea is performed. First, a division basis between the theoretical wave energy and the exploitable wave energy is studied. Next, based on recent 20 a ERA-Interim wave field data, some indexes including the spatial and temporal distribution of wave power density, a wave energy exploitable ratio, a wave energy level, a wave energy stability, a total wave energy density, the seasonal variation of the total wave energy and a high sea condition frequency are calculated. And then the theoretical wave energy and the exploitable wave energy are compared each other; the distributions of the exploitable wave energy are assessed and a regional division for exploitable wave energy resources is carried out; the influence of the high sea state is evaluated. The results show that considering collapsing force of the high sea state and the utilization efficiency for wave energy, it is determined that the energy by wave with a significant wave height being not less 1 m or not greater than 4 m is the exploitable wave energy. Compared with the theoretical wave energy, the average wave power density, energy level, total wave energy density and total wave energy of the exploitable wave energy decrease obviously and the stability enhances somewhat. Pronounced differences between the theoretical wave energy and the exploitable wave energy are present. In the East China Sea and the South China Sea, the areas of an abundant and stable exploitable wave energy are primarily located in the north-central part of the South China Sea, the Luzon Strait,east of Taiwan, China and north of Ryukyu Islands; annual average exploitable wave power density values in these areas are approximately 10–15 k W/m; the exploitable coefficient of variation(COV) and seasonal variation(SV)values in these areas are less than 1.2 and 1, respectively. Some coastal areas of the Beibu Gulf, the Changjiang Estuary, the Hangzhou Bay and the Zhujiang Estuary are the poor areas of the wave energy. The areas of the high wave energy exploitable ratio is primarily in nearshore waters. The influence of the high sea state for the wave energy in nearshore waters is less than that in offshore waters. In the areas of the abundant wave energy, the influence of the high sea state for the wave energy is prominent and the utilization of wave energy is relatively difficult. The developed evaluation method may give some references for an exploitable wave energy assessment and is valuable for practical applications.     

海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

波群内单个波的波陡分布与波破碎

对波群内单个波的波陡分布和波破碎进行了实验研究。研究结果是,波群中波动的最大振幅出现在波群前部而不是出现在波群中央,这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波出现大波陡的概率大于后部单个波出现大波陡的概率;进一步的波破碎统计发现波群前部单个波破碎的频率是后部单个波破碎频率的4倍。因此认为,波群结构的不对称性能够导致单个波发生破碎的...     

黄河口“烂泥”波浪特性的分析

根据１９９１年１１月２３－２４日现场波浪测量资料，分析了黄河口“烂泥”的消波效应。结果表明，波浪传至“烂泥”后波高和周期均有明显减小，波浪频谱也有较大的变化，“烂泥”是一个天然的“避风港”。     

基于多星融合高度计数据的中国海波浪能资源评估

Wave energy resources are abundant in both offshore and nearshore areas of the China's seas. A reliable assessment of the wave energy resources must be performed before they can be exploited. First, for a water depth in offshore waters of China, a parameterized wave power density model that considers the effects of the water depth is introduced to improve the calculating accuracy of the wave power density. Second, wave heights and wind speeds on the surface of the China's seas are retrieved from an AVISO multi-satellite altimeter data set for the period from 2009 to 2013. Three mean wave period inversion models are developed and used to calculate the wave energy period. Third, a practical application value for developing the wave energy is analyzed based on buoy data. Finally, the wave power density is then calculated using the wave field data. Using the distribution of wave power density, the energy level frequency, the time variability indexes, the total wave energy and the distribution of total wave energy density according to a wave state, the offshore wave energy in the China's seas is assessed. The results show that the areas of abundant and stable wave energy are primarily located in the north-central part of the South China Sea, the Luzon Strait, southeast of Taiwan in the China's seas; the wave power density values in these areas are approximately 14.0–18.5 k W/m. The wave energy in the China's seas presents obvious seasonal variations and optimal seasons for a wave energy utilization are in winter and autumn. Except for very coastal waters, in other sea areas in the China's seas, the energy is primarily from the wave state with 0.5 m≤H s≤4 m, 4 s≤T e≤10 s where H s is a significant wave height and T e is an energy period; within this wave state, the wave energy accounts for 80% above of the total wave energy. This characteristic is advantageous to designing wave energy convertors(WECs). The practical application value of the wave energy is higher which can be as an effective supplement for an energy consumption in some areas. The above results are consistent with the wave model which indicates fully that this new microwave remote sensing method altimeter is effective and feasible for the wave energy assessment.     

波浪作用产生沙波的动力机制研究

界面波作用产生的周期沙波现象的动力机制一直没有得到合理圆满的解释。本文针对这种现象通过对浅水弱非线性Boussinesq方程,讨论界面波由于反射效应产生的反射波与入射波的非线性相互作用,得出了一个不受时间变量制约的不传播非线性二阶驻波解。从这个驻波解空间分布上可以看出,这种动力机制作用产生的周期沙波通常是其波形平行于反射壁,并且沙波波长为入射波垂直反射壁面分量的一半。数值模拟结果证明这个非线性二阶波是Genus-2波列的一个子集．水槽实验和海岸高空照片资料上清楚的分辨出这种由反射壁效应产生的沙波的客观存在性。     

Processing irregular wave measurements to enhance point absorber power capture performance

The paper aims at introducing practical methods for power capture performance enhancement of a heaving wave energy converter in irregular seas. The optimum control solution requires tuning to wave frequency based on wave force information. However, identification of the wave frequency in irregular seas is considered to be a complex and difficult task. This is partly due to technical difficulties in determination of the wave force. Besides, there are no clear guidelines for identification of wave frequency from an irregular sea state based wave force information. In a typical application, one of the available sources of information about the wave properties is the wave elevation record. The proposed approach presents a method for estimation of the wave frequency information from the wave elevation data by using signal processing and filtering techniques. The proposed method uses filters to generate an estimation of wave force information, which is used to identify the local wave frequency by method of a time-series analysis of the data. This wave frequency information is then used in tuning the device. The details of the proposed techniques, the model of the wave energy converter, the simulated sea states and the related simulation results are also presented.     

礁面大糙率存在下孤立波传播变形及爬高实验研究

本文采用圆柱体阵列来模拟珊瑚礁面的大糙率,通过波浪水槽实验研究礁面糙率对孤立波传播变形及岸滩爬高的影响.结果表明,粗糙礁面的存在显著削弱了礁坪上孤立波的首峰和礁后岸滩反射造成的次峰,同时降低了波浪在珊瑚礁面的传播速度;垂直于岸线方向沿礁相对波高随着入射波增大而减小,随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,粗糙礁面上波高沿礁的衰减更为...     

耦合模式中海浪参数对台风浪预报的影响研究

以西北太平洋一次"双台风"共同影响下的台风浪为例,针对模式中风摄入和白帽耗散、底摩擦、波破碎、波-波非线性相互作用等海浪物理过程对台风浪预报的影响进行了敏感性试验分析。在此基础上,基于各物理过程最优参数化方案探讨了耦合模式和单独海浪模式的海浪预报性能,分析了耦合模式的海浪预报场分布特征。结果表明:不同海浪物理过程参数化对于波高预报的准确性是有所差异的。在相对最优的海浪各参数化方案组合下,无论耦合模式还是单独海浪模式都能较好地反映波高的变化和分布趋势。相比而言,耦合模式对于台风浪大值区的浪高预报要比单独海浪模式的更接近观测,且可以很好地刻画出双台风影响下浪的分布演变特征,对于西太平洋台风浪的预报具有很好的适用性。     

驱动非线性浅水波的行波特征研究

采用带有外界强迫效应的浅水动力学模式研究非线性波动、获得了依赖于外界输入形式的驱动水波的行波解。研究结果表明,驱动水波仍具有非线性波动的一般性质,而当外界强迫波速与水波固有速度一致时,水波出现共振效应,并且外界强迫孤立子将导致驱动水波孤立子产生。     

An assessment of global ocean wave energy resources over the last 45 a

Against the background of the current world facing an energy crisis,and human beings puzzled by the problems of environment and resources,developing clean energy sources becomes the inevitable choice to deal with a climate change and an energy shortage.A global ocean wave energy resource was reanalyzed by using ERA-40 wave reanalysis data 1957–2002 from European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF).An effective significant wave height is defined in the development of wave energy resources(short as effective SWH),and the total potential of wave energy is exploratively calculated.Synthetically considering a wave energy density,a wave energy level probability,the frequency of the effective SWH,the stability and long-term trend of wave energy density,a swell index and a wave energy storage,global ocean wave energy resources were reanalyzed and regionalized,providing reference to the development of wave energy resources such as wave power plant location,seawater desalination,heating,pumping.     

不完全立波的二维数值波浪水槽模拟

利用二维数值波浪水槽研究波浪在防波堤前的运动状态.模型选用Navier-Stokes方程作为基本方程,以有限元法对基本方程进行离散.以直立堤前完全立波和越浪条件的不完全立波、斜坡堤前的不完全立波等典型情况的模拟为基础,组合这些典型情况模拟削角堤前不完全立波运动,探讨其堤前波面、波节点及波腹点位置、波压力等特性变化.     

斜坡堤典型胸墙波浪力的影响因素

为探求斜坡堤典型胸墙迎浪面所受波浪力大小的影响因素,设计前仰式、深弧式、后仰式和直立式4种结构型式胸墙进行相关的物理模型试验。通过在典型胸墙迎浪面间隔布置压力测点,获取所受波浪压力,并将其进行积分求和,得到胸墙所受波浪力,进而讨论相对波高、相对波长、斜坡坡度和胸墙结构型式对波浪力的影响。结果表明,相对波高与相对波长对胸墙所受波浪力影响显著;波浪力随着相对波高的增大而增大,随着相对波长的增大呈现先增大、后减小、再增大的变化趋势;波浪力随着斜坡坡度的增大而减小。斜坡堤弧形胸墙所受波浪力明显大于直立式胸墙所受波浪力;在斜坡堤弧形胸墙中,前仰式胸墙受力较其余两种型式胸墙受力小。研究结果将加深波浪对斜坡堤胸墙作用力的理解,为后续工程设计提供理论指导。     

Computation of Long-Term Statistical Properties of Wave Agitation in Harbors

In this paper,the long-term statistical properties of wave height in an idealized square harborwith a partial opening are studied.The incident waves are propagated into the harbor numerically by the fi-nite/infinite element method using three different wave models:(1)monochromatic wave train,(2)long-crested random wave train,and(3)short-crested random wave train.This study shows that for a giv-en incident wave,the wave height in the harbor is affected by the wave model used.For long-term estima-tion of wave height exceedance probability,it is recommended that the waves be propagated into the har-bor using the random wave model,and that wave heights be computed by use of the Rayleigh probabilitydistribution.     

Temporal variation of modulated-wave-train geometries and their influence on vertical bending moments of a container ship

A towing experiment was conducted using a modulated wave train to investigate the vertical bending responses of a hydro-structural container ship model. In the experiment, a spatially periodic modulated wave train, as a model of a freak wave in successive high waves mimicking the so-called three sisters, was generated by the recently established higher-order spectral method wave generation (HOSM-WG) method. HOSM-WG enables us to control the location and timing of the maximum crest height in a wave tank. With precise control of the towing carriage, an experiment was conducted in which the timing of the encounters between the ship model and the modulated wave train was accurately determined. The maximum sagging moment (SM) was found to increase in proportion with the encounter wave height. However, because of differences in the relative depth of the fore and aft troughs, the maximum SM is highly variable for a given wave height. The temporal wave-geometry evolution caused the relative trough-depth to vary significantly within a wave period in the vicinity of the maximum crest height. As a result, depending on the encounter timing, the SM varied considerably for a given wave height. The temporal variation of the wave geometry is a robust feature of a modulated wave train and is common between the spatially periodic and temporally periodic modulated wave trains.     

The physical simulation of wave groups and their variations in a wave flume

The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given.     

Focused Wave Properties Based on A High Order Spectral Method with A Non-Periodic Boundary

In this paper,a numerical model is developed based on the High Order Spectral(HOS) method with a non-periodic boundary.A wave maker boundary condition is introduced to simulate wave generation at the incident boundary in the HOS method.Based on the numerical model,the effects of wave parameters,such as the assumed focused amplitude,the central frequency,the frequency bandwidth,the wave amplitude distribution and the directional spreading on the surface elevation of the focused wave,the maximum generated wave crest,and the shifting of the focusing point,are numerically investigated.Especially,the effects of the wave directionality on the focused wave properties are emphasized.The numerical results show that the shifting of the focusing point and the maximum crest of the wave group are dependent on the amplitude of the focused wave,the central frequency,and the wave amplitude distribution type.The wave directionality has a definite effect on multidirectional focused waves.Generally,it can even out the difference between the simulated wave amplitude and the amplitude expected from theory and reduce the shifting of the focusing points,implying that the higher order interaction has an influence on wave focusing,especially for 2D wave.In 3D wave groups,a broader directional spreading weakens the higher nonlinear interactions.     

A study on kinematics characteristics of freak wave

Based on the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory, the speed of freak waves is formulated in terms of the period and the wave height. Finite modified wave steepness gives rise to a significant enhancement of the nonlinear contributions to the freak wave speed in comparison with the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory. For a fix modified wave steepness, the estimated amplification of the nonlinear contributions due to the deviation from the 3rd-order Stokes wave theory is 0.22～0.99. In addition, the velocity and acceleration fields are also documented in detail. In the present simulation, the horizontal velocities are smaller than the wave speed, and the freak wave exhibits a maximal horizontal velocity up to 37% of the wave speed and a maximal vertical acceleration up to about 20% of the gravitational acceleration.     

破碎波群的显著特征指标

群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。