Reconstruction of ancient sea conditions with an example from the Swiss Molasse

Ancient sea conditions can be estimated from the grain size, spacing and steepness of preserved ripple-marks. The element of greatest uncertainty in such reconstructions is the relationship between near-bed orbital diameter of water particles and the ripple spacing. This relationship is simple for vortex ripples of high steepness but is problematical for the low-steepness forms known as post-vortex, rolling-grain or anorbital ripples.

The existence field for wave ripples is between the threshold velocity for sediment movement and the onset of sheet flow, most low-steepness forms occurring close to the bed planation threshold. A range of maximum period of formative waves can be obtained using combinations of orbital diameter and orbital velocity, assuming linear wave theory to be a reasonable approximation.

Probable wave heights, wave lengths and water depths can be investigated using the transformation of wave parameters in shallowing waters and the constraints on wave dimensions provided by the wave-breaking condition. Given reasonable estimates of wave height, crude estimates of wave power allow a comparison of ancient wave-influenced sequences with modern counterparts.

Wave ripple-marks preserved in the Upper Marine Molasse of western Switzerland have been investigated. Results, which are in agreement with regional geology, suggest deposition in a seaway of approximately 100 km width, where moderate period waves (T = 3–6 s) were generated. The depositional facies belts were adjusted to the prevailing waves, tides and fluvial outflows.     

Ripples in intertidal mud—a conceptual explanation

On protected mudflats and along sheltered tidal channel margins, wave- and current-generated ripples are frequently observed on surficial and subsurface mud beds, although such bedforms are generally not thought to occur in cohesive sediments. In this paper, examples of such ripple marks in the German Wadden Sea (back-barrier tidal flats of Spiekeroog island) and also along the west coast of Korea (Baeksu tidal flats) are documented and analyzed. The mud ripples are 5–8 cm in spacing and 0.3–0.8 cm in height, and are composed of slightly sandy to virtually pure mud (80–98% mud content). For the Spiekeroog study area, a comparison of in situ particle-size measurements of suspended matter and of dispersed mud collected from the ripples shows that the former consists of low-density flocs which are considerably larger than the constituent grains of the latter. To assess local wave effects, near-bed orbital velocities and orbital diameters were calculated on the basis of standard wave theory using estimated wave parameters at the time of the study (June 2004) as well as wave data recorded nearby within the back-barrier tidal basin. The relationships between grain size, morphometric ripple parameters, and the near-bed orbital diameter show the wave-generated mud ripples to be of the orbital post-vortex type. It is demonstrated that only short-period shoaling (intermediate water depth) waves with periods of 1.5–2.5 s and heights of 0.1–0.5 m are able to generate and maintain such ripples. Corresponding near-bed orbital velocities range from 8–32 cm s^–1 and near-bed orbital diameters from 6.25–10 cm. It can be anticipated that increased current shear and turbulence associated with higher and longer waves prevent ripple formation due to the resuspension of settled mud, and the breakdown of suspended flocs and aggregates into smaller particles which then tend to remain in suspension. The most plausible explanation for the formation of the mud ripples is that mud flocs and aggregates deposited from suspension around high-water slack tide under moderate weather conditions initially respond as single (non-cohesive) particles which are hydraulically equivalent to ambient very fine sands. During exposure at low tide, gradual loss of water transforms the rippled mud into increasingly more cohesive mud drapes which are more resistant to erosion. Unless destroyed during high-energy events, the mud ripples may remain intact long enough to become buried and thereby preserved. Indeed, occasional but persistent observations of ripples in sub-Recent to ancient mudrocks document their preservation potential.     

广西近海潮汐和海流的观测分析与数值研究——Ⅰ.观测与分析

1992 - 1 996年 ,对广西近海水深浅于 2 0 m的整个海域 ,利用 2 8个锚碇浮标和 2 3个周日连续观测站 ,对水位和海流进行了观测。根据观测结果 ,对该海域的潮汐性质 ,潮流特征和余流分布进行了分析 ,并对潮汐与潮流性质差异的动因和影响余流变化的主要因子进行初步探讨。结果表明 :广西近海的潮汐性质属于正规日潮。潮流性质大部分属于不正规半日潮或不正规日潮。余流主要由潮余流和风海流组成。潮流大小潮变化和风的变化是导致余流变化的主要原因。潮流绕海角运动 ,流速增强 ,并能诱导经向离岸流     

南海东沙岛西南大陆坡内潮特征

2008年4月-10月,在南海东沙岛西南大陆坡底部布放了1套全剖面锚系,同时沿大陆坡底部布放了3套近底锚系,应用谱分析和调和分析方法分析温度和海流连续观测资料,进而研究该海域的内潮特征.结果表明,东沙岛西南大陆坡存在强内潮现象,大陆坡底部温度变化受到内潮波的影响,上层海洋存在强日潮周期的内潮波振动;正压潮和斜压潮均以O...     

The dimensions of sand ripples in full-scale oscillatory flows

New large-scale experiments have been carried out in two oscillatory flow tunnels to study ripple regime sand suspension and net sand transport processes in full-scale oscillatory flows. The paper focuses on ripple dimensions and the new data are combined with existing data to make a large dataset of ripple heights and lengths for flows with field-scale amplitudes and periods. A feature of the new experiments is a focus on the effect of flow irregularity. The combined dataset is analysed to examine the range of hydraulic conditions under which oscillatory flow ripples occur, to examine the effects of flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality on ripple dimensions and to test and improve existing methods for predicting ripple dimensions.The following are the main conclusions. (1) The highest velocities in a flow time-series play an important role in determining the type of bedform occurring in oscillatory flow. Bedform regime is well characterised by mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth peak velocities in the case of irregular flow. (2) For field-scale flows, sand size is the primary factor determining whether equilibrium ripples will be 2D or 3D. 2D ripples occur when the sand D₅₀ ≥ 0.30 mm and 3D ripples occur when D₅₀ ≤ 0.22 mm (except when the flow orbital diameter is low). (3) Ripple type (2D or 3D) is the same for regular and irregular flows and ripple dimensions produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows follow a similar functional dependence on mobility number, with mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth velocities in the case of irregular flow. For much of the ripple regime, ripple dimensions have weak dependency on mobility number and ripple dimensions are similar for regular and irregular flows with the same flow orbital amplitude. However, differences in ripples produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows become significant at the high mobility end of the ripple regime. (4) Ripple dimensions predicted using the Wiberg and Harris formulae are in poor agreement with measured ripple dimensions from the large-scale experiments. Predictions based on the Mogridge et al. and the Nielsen formulae show better overall agreement with the data but also show systematic differences in cases of 3D ripples and ripples generated by irregular flows. (5) Based on the combined large-scale data, modifications to the Nielsen ripple dimension equations are proposed for the heights and lengths of 2D ripples. The same equations apply to regular and irregular flows, but with mobility number appropriately defined. 3D ripples are generally smaller than 2D ripples and estimates of 3D ripple height and length may be obtained by applying multipliers of 0.55 and 0.73 respectively to the 2D formulae. The proposed modified Nielsen formulae provide an improved fit to the large-scale data, accounting for flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality.     

Concurrent simulation of the eddying general circulation and tides in a global ocean model

This paper presents a five-year global simulation of HYCOM, the HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model, that simultaneously resolves the eddying general circulation, barotropic tides, and baroclinic tides with 32 layers in the vertical direction and 1/12.5° (equatorial) horizontal grid spacing. A parameterized topographic wave drag is inserted into the model and tuned so that the surface tidal elevations are of comparable accuracy to those in optimally tuned forward tide models used in previous studies. The model captures 93% of the open-ocean sea-surface height variance of the eight largest tidal constituents, as recorded by a standard set of 102 pelagic tide gauges spread around the World Ocean. In order to minimize the impact of the wave drag on non-tidal motions, the model utilizes a running 25-h average to approximately separate tidal and non-tidal components of the near-bottom flow. In contrast to earlier high-resolution global baroclinic tide simulations, which utilized tidal forcing only, the simulation presented here has a horizontally non-uniform stratification, supported by the wind- and buoyancy forcing. The horizontally varying stratification affects the baroclinic tides in high latitudes to first order. The magnitude of the internal tide perturbations to sea surface elevation amplitude and phase in a large box surrounding Hawai’i is quite similar to that observed in satellite altimeter data, although the exact locations of peaks and troughs in the modeled perturbations differ from those in the observed perturbations.     

涡流波痕

本文介绍一种新的波痕类型——涡流波痕,它由若干列放射状排列的波痕组成一个小波痕体系。单列波痕脊的中段呈弧形前凸。笔者将涡流波痕的形态特征与涡流的运动特征相比较,探讨了形成涡流波痕的水动力条件。笔者在阐明涡流波痕产地地理背景的基础上,指出大潮差沙滩的后滨是发育涡流波痕的理想环境。     

The formation of offshore ripples in the zone under irregular waves

In this article, results obtained from an experimental investigation conducted to determine the wave-induced geometric characteristics of offshore ripples and bars are presented. The experiments were performed using irregular waves. Natural beach sand was used in the study, where the mean diameter was 0.35 mm and the specific gravity was 2.63. The initial slope of the beach was 1:5. Different wave groups were generated over the initially flat beach, and a number of characteristics were determined. These include the ripple number, individual and average ripple heights, individual and average ripple lengths and the length of the offshore bar. The results of the experimental study were evaluated and empirical expressions based on the results were formulated.     

Underwater video reveals decreased activity of rocky intertidal snails during high tides and cooler days

Nearly all of our understanding of rocky inter‐tidal ecology comes from studies conducted at low tide. To study inter‐tidal organisms at high tide, we anchored waterproof digital GoPro^® video cameras in wave‐exposed tidepools and recorded the daytime movements of the black turban snail, Tegula funebralis, over the tidal cycle between May and August 2012 near Bodega Bay, California. Overall, snails moved more quickly and presumably foraged more during low tides and on days with warmer air and perhaps water temperatures. This is similar to other ectotherms that exhibit increased metabolic rates, movement and foraging in warmer conditions. Snails also moved less during flood and high tides, may have moved downward in tidepools at flood tides, and showed evidence of reduced activity on days with larger waves. This inactivity and refuge seeking may have been a strategy to avoid dislodgment by waves. Analysis of snail trajectories showed foraging bouts indicated by alternating zig‐zagging and straight movement. There was no effect of temperature, wave height, or tidal phase on distribution of snail turning angles, suggesting that they may have foraged consistently but moved faster during warm conditions and low tides, thereby grazing a larger area. This is one of few direct recordings of inter‐tidal organisms on wave‐exposed rocky shores during high tide. The methods used here are easily transferable to other studies, which are needed to increase our understanding of behaviors that structure rocky shore communities during high tide.     

南麂岛附近海域潮汐和潮流的特征

以2008年冬季在浙江近海南麂岛附近投放的4个底锚系观测的水位和流速资料为依据,分析了潮汐和潮流特征。水位谱分析结果显示半日分潮最显著,全日分潮其次;近岸的浅水分潮比离岸大。水位调和分析结果表明:潮汐类型均为正规半日潮,近岸处的平均潮差大于3m,最大可能潮差大于6m,潮汐呈现出显著的低潮日不等和回归潮特征。流速谱分析结果显示半日分潮流最强,全日分潮流其次,且比半日分潮流小得多;近岸浅水分潮流比远离岸显著。流速调和分析结果表明:潮流类型均为正规半日潮流,靠近岸的两个站浅水分潮流较显著;最显著的半日分潮流是M2分潮流,其最大流速介于0.32～0.48m/s之间,全日分潮流均很弱,最大流速小于0.06m/s。M2分潮流均为逆时针旋转,椭圆率越靠近海底越大;最大分潮流流速分布为中上层最大、表层略小、底层最小;最大分潮流流速方向的垂向变化很小,底层比表层略为偏左;最大分潮流流速到达时间随深度的加深而提前,底层比中上层约提前30min。潮流椭圆的垂向分布显示这里的半日分潮流以正压潮流为主;日分潮流则表现出很强的斜压性。     

Numerical simulations of the internal tide in a submarine canyon

Three-dimensional numerical simulations of the generation and propagation of the semidiurnal internal tide in a submarine canyon with dimensions similar to those of the Monterey Canyon are carried out using a primitive equation model. Forcing with just sea level at the offshore boundary in an initially horizontally homogeneous ocean with realistic vertical stratification, internal tides are generated at the canyon foot and rim, and along portions of the canyon floor. The results compare favorably with observations, both indicating enhancement of energy along the canyon floor propagating at an angle consistent with linear internal wave theory. Due to the earth's rotation, internal tide energy is distributed asymmetrically in the cross-canyon direction, favoring the southern side. The effect of canyon floor slope is explored, with the finding that small changes in the slope result in large changes in the amount and distribution of the internal tide energy. Canyons whose floors are subcritical with respect to the semidiurnal frequency along their entire length have very little baroclinic energy, whereas canyons that are near-critical along much of their length, such as the Monterey Canyon, develop strong internal tides that propagate shoreward. Canyons that are near-critical at their mouths but supercritical further inshore generate the most internal tidal energy overall, although little of it makes it onto the continental shelf shoreward of the canyon head. The effects of internal tides within the canyons can be seen outside the canyons as well. Water is transported from depth onto the adjacent continental shelf along the canyon rims. This tidal pumping can be responsible for alongshore internal tide propagation and tidal-period surface currents with relatively small horizontal scales of variability.     

废黄河口海域潮流动力与悬沙输运特征

根据2006年废黄河口海域的悬沙、流速、流向的观测资料,应用短期资料的潮流准调和分析方法,对连续海流资料进行了分析,并结合悬沙资料,对悬沙质量浓度与潮流之间的动力关系进行了探讨.研究结果表明:该海域潮流属于正规半日潮流,潮流以往复流为主,离岸越远,旋转性越强;涨潮流流向以SSE为主,落潮流流向以NNW为主.悬沙质量浓度...     

A study of non-linear tidal propagation in shallow inlet/estuarine systems Part I: Observations

The offshore tide becomes strongly distorted as it propagates into shallow estuarine systems. Observations of sea surface elevation and horizontal currents over periods ranging from three days to one year, at nine stations within Nauset inlet/estuary, document the non-linear interaction of the off-shore equilibrium tidal constituents. Despite strong frictional attenuation within the estuary, the overtides and compound tides of M₂, S₂ and N₂, in particular, reach significant amplitude, resulting in strong tidal distortion. High frequency forced constituents in sea surface are phase-locked, consistently leading the forcing tides by 60–70°, resulting in a persistent distortion where falling tide is longer than rising tide. Forced constituents in currents are more nearly in phase with equilibrium constituents, producing flood currents which are shorter but more intense than ebb currents. A compound fortnightly tide, MS_f, modulates the mean water level such that lowest tides occur during neap phase instead of spring phase. This fortnightly tide can be contaminated by storm surge, changing the phase characteristics of this constituent. Implications of the overtides, compound tides, and lower frequency tides on near-bed, suspended and dissolved material transport are profound.     

特大洪水期间长江口浑浊带分粒级输沙特征

基于2020年7月特大洪水期间长江口浑浊带南槽、北槽和北港多站位同步实测水沙动力数据,研究了河口浑浊带分粒级输沙时空特征及其对泥沙来源响应的指示意义,结果表明：1）北港和北槽是流域泥沙净向口外输移的主要输沙通道,南槽是海域泥沙净向口内输移的主要输沙通道,主槽内粉砂是主要输沙组分,占比63.2%,口外粉砂和黏土是主要输沙组分,分别占43.2%、40.9%;2）大潮粉砂输运占比高于小潮,黏土输运占比低于小潮,口外测站砂组分在大小潮期间在横沙浅滩和九段沙间沿岸输移,横沙浅滩附近大、小潮离岸输沙分别是北港口外的1.7倍和8倍,不利于横沙浅滩淤涨;3）当前流域减沙高达70%,此次特大洪水期间黏土、粉砂和砂三组分近底净向口内输移为减沙背景下的口外供沙提供了有力的佐证。     

三门湾外海的潮汐和潮流特征

针对2009年5月-7月三门湾外海D8和D9两个站位布放的防渔网底拖锚系ADCP连续观测获取的流速资料和水位资料,采用调和分析和功率谱分析等研究方法,分析了该海域的潮汐和潮流特征,结果显示:该海域潮汐类型为正规半日潮,近岸的D9站浅水分潮比离岸的D8站显著,潮汐呈现出回归潮特征。三门湾外海潮流半日分潮能量最大, 各层潮流呈现出旋转流性质;椭圆率随水深增加;M₂、K₁分潮流最大流速均在次表层最大;最大分潮流速发生时刻底层比中、上层提前约半小时;该海域潮流的半日分潮流以正压为主,全日分潮流则表现出较为明显的斜压性。     

Variability of sediment suspended in rotatory currents,Swansea Bay (Bristol Channel), Great Britain

Two separate current systems have been identified in Swansea Bay — a rotatory current system, located in the northern part of the embayment, and a rectilinear current system, offshore. The amount of fine-grained sediment suspended in the rotatory currents varies with both direction during a tide cycle and tidal range. Measurements of suspended sediment indicate that the suspended load is higher on neap tides than spring tides. This is due to a change in axial orientation of the rectilinear system, which directs ebb-tide currents towards the northern part of the embayment on neap tides, but “deflects” ebb-tide currents from the northern area on spring tides.     

Tidal asymmetry in suspended sand transport on a macrotidal intermediate beach

Time-series of nearbed horizontal flow velocities and suspended sediment concentrations obtained from a colocated electromagnetic current meter (EMCM) and optical backscatter sensor (OBS), respectively, are used to examine the relative importance of steady and fluctuating components to the total sediment transport over a full tidal cycle on a macrotidal, intermediate beach (Spurn Head, UK). Fluctuating sediment fluxes are decomposed into gravity and infragravity contributions using co-spectral techniques. The relative importance of the oscillatory (gravity and infragravity) and steady (mean) transport components to the total sediment transport is analysed throughout the tidal cycle.

A continuum of 34 discrete suspended sediment-cross-shore velocity co-spectra are computed over a full tidal cycle for the OBS and EMCM measurements 0.10 m above the bed. These net transport spectra vary greatly both with cross-shore location and tidal state. In particular, a marked asymmetry in transport processes is evident between the flood and ebb tides, with high levels of sediment resuspension and transport occurring on the ebbing tide approximately two hours after high water (just seaward of the breakpoint). At this time the dominant transport was directed offshore (co-spectral peak, 0.04 kg/m²/s) at incident wave frequency.

Typical patterns are observed in transport spectra outside the surf zone and within the inner surf zone. Outside the narrow surf zone cross-shore transport spectra show weak offshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.002 kg/m²/s) associated with bound long waves and stronger onshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.006 kg/m²/s) at incident wave frequencies. Conversely, co-spectra computed within the inner surf zone show the offshore sediment fluxes (spectral peak = 0.010 kg/m²/s) at infragravity frequencies to be greater in magnitude than the corresponding onshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.008 kg/m²/s) occurring at incident wave frequencies.     

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.     

吐噶喇海峡内潮的能量收支和大小潮变化

吐噶喇海峡是西北太平洋重要的内潮产生区域,该区域内产生的内潮对于东海陆架和西北太平洋的混合和物质输运有十分重要的作用。水平分辨率为3km的JCOPE-T(JapanCoastalOcean PredictabilityExperiment—Tides)水动力学模式的结果表明,吐噶喇海峡的内潮主要产生在地形变化剧烈的海山和海岛附近,其引起的等密面起伏振幅可达30m。吐噶喇海峡的内潮在垂直于等深线方向分为两支向外传播:一支向西北方向传播,进入东海陆架后迅速减小;另一支向东南方向传播,进入西北太平洋。吐噶喇海峡潮能丰富,其在约半个月内的平均输入的净正压潮能通量为13.92GW,其中约有3.73GW转化为内潮能量。生成的内潮能量有77.2%在当地耗散,传出的内潮能通量为0.84GW,主要通过西北和东南两个边界传出。该区域潮能通量有显著的大小潮变化,大潮期间输入的正压潮净能通量和产生的内潮能通量均约为小潮期间的2倍,但其主要产生区域基本不变,且内潮能量耗散比率均在产生的内潮通量的76%—79%。另外,内潮能通量的传播方向也没有发生变化,仍主要通过西北和东南两个边界传出。因此,大小潮的变化仅影响吐噶喇海峡处产生的内潮能量的大小,不影响其产生区域、传播方向和耗散比率。     

Preliminary results of the global ocean tide derived from HY-2A radar altimeter data

The HY-2A satellite, which is equipped with a radar altimeter and was launched on August 16, 2011, is the first Chinese marine dynamic environmental monitoring satellite. Extracting ocean tides is one of the important applications of the radar altimeter data. The radar altimeter data of the HY-2A satellite from November 1, 2011 to August 16, 2014 are used herein to extract global ocean tides. The constants representing the tidal constituents are extracted by HY-2A RA data with harmonic analysis ...