Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Single Jetty

- This paper presents a calculation method for the diffraction of both regular waves and irregular waves of the single directional frequency spectrum behind a single jetty with a theoretical analysis, which has been confirmed through the model experiments, derives a method of computing the diffracted irregular waves behind the single jetty with the theoretical analysis on the basis of computation of the field data and gives the formulas and the figures of the computation of wave diffractions behind the vertical wall or mound single jetties.     

Modelling and measurement of sand transport processes over full-scale ripples in oscillatory flow

A new series of laboratory experiments was performed in the Aberdeen Oscillatory Flow Tunnel (AOFT) and the Large Oscillating Water Tunnel (LOWT) to investigate time-averaged suspended sand concentrations and transport rates over rippled beds in regular and irregular oscillatory flow. The wave-induced oscillatory near-bed flows were simulated at full-scale. Five series of experiments were carried out. During the two AOFT experimental series, ripple dimensions, ripple migration rates and net sand transport rates were measured under regular and irregular asymmetric flow for two different sand types. The three LOWT experimental series focussed on measurements of the ripple dimensions, ripple migration rates, time-averaged suspended sand concentrations and net sand transport rates under regular asymmetric and irregular weakly asymmetric flow for two different sand types. From analysis of new and other full-scale data, it is concluded that the lower part of the time- and bed-averaged concentration profile (up to two times the ripple height above the ripple crest level) has an exponential profile. A new reference concentration formula is proposed based on the formula of Bosman and Steetzel [Bosman, J.J., Steetzel, H.J., 1986. Time- and bed-averaged concentration under waves. Proc. 20th ICCE Taipei, ASCE, pp. 986–1000], which includes the grain-size influence. Furthermore, it is shown that the concentration decay length is strongly related to the ripple height and that the simple formula R_c = 1.27η gives good agreement with the data. A new transport model is proposed for the wave-related net transport over full-scale ripples based on a modified half wave cycle concept of Dibajnia and Watanabe [Dibajnia, M., Watanabe, A., 1992. Sheet flow under nonlinear waves and currents. Proc. 23rd ICCE Venice, ASCE, pp. 2015–2028; Dibajnia, M., Watanabe, A., 1996. A transport rate formula for mixed sands. Proc. 25th ICCE Orlando, ASCE, pp. 3791–3804]. The magnitudes of the half wave cycle transport contributions are related to the grain-related Shields parameter, the degree of wave asymmetry and a newly defined vortex suspension parameter P, which is the ratio between the ripple height and the median grain-size. The new model has been calibrated using transport data from the new regular flow experiments and has subsequently been validated using other data, including measurements from irregular flow experiments. The new model is seen to perform better overall than existing practical models for ripple regime net sand transport.     

不规则波与开孔沉箱相互作用数值模拟

采用三步有限元法对N-S方程进行离散,同时借助CLEAR-VOF方法追踪流体自由表面,利用主动吸收式造波等手段改进了二维不规则波浪数值水槽,使得水槽中的波浪谱与目标靶谱吻合较好。进而建立了不规则波浪与开孔沉箱作用一种新的数值模式,分析研究不规则波作用下开孔沉箱的反射率,并与现有的物模结果和数模结果进行了对比,为不规则波与开孔沉箱作用问题的研究,探求了一种新的数值手段。     

Processing irregular wave measurements to enhance point absorber power capture performance

The paper aims at introducing practical methods for power capture performance enhancement of a heaving wave energy converter in irregular seas. The optimum control solution requires tuning to wave frequency based on wave force information. However, identification of the wave frequency in irregular seas is considered to be a complex and difficult task. This is partly due to technical difficulties in determination of the wave force. Besides, there are no clear guidelines for identification of wave frequency from an irregular sea state based wave force information. In a typical application, one of the available sources of information about the wave properties is the wave elevation record. The proposed approach presents a method for estimation of the wave frequency information from the wave elevation data by using signal processing and filtering techniques. The proposed method uses filters to generate an estimation of wave force information, which is used to identify the local wave frequency by method of a time-series analysis of the data. This wave frequency information is then used in tuning the device. The details of the proposed techniques, the model of the wave energy converter, the simulated sea states and the related simulation results are also presented.     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

基于HUST-Ship的船舶耐波性数值试验水池参数化建模方法研究

基于自研的HUST-Ship黏性流CFD求解器,提出了一种船舶耐波性数值试验水池参数化建模方法和网格生成技术。在自研的CFD软件平台中,根据波浪参数(规则波的波长、波高和不规则波的特征周期、有效波高)自动生成船舶耐波性数值试验水池。以结构化重叠网格技术为基础,分别对船舶与水池进行网格划分并进行网格的组装、重叠,实现船舶在耐波性数值试验水池中的数值“试验”,对船舶耐波性进行数值预报。根据波浪种类分为规则波数值试验水池与不规则波数值试验水池,可对各类波浪条件实现精确可靠的数值造波,模拟船舶在各种波浪环境中运动响应、耐波性事件与非线性运动特性。采用参数化建模方法生成的耐波性数值试验水池能够提高建模和网格生成效率,通过对国际标模进行数值预报并与船模试验结果对比,验证了参数化建模方法生成的耐波性数值试验水池对船舶在波浪中运动性能的计算精度。     

Inline forces on vertical pile in irregular waves

The total inline wave forces, the irregular wave forces in particular, on an isolated pile are investigated by experiment. The relationships between force coefficients Cd and CM including in Morison's Eq. . and KC number or Reynolds number Re, and the variation of Cd and Cm in frequency domain are analysed with the method of least-squares in time domain and that of cross-spectral analysis. The plots of C4and Cmversus KCare given for both regular and irregular waves and those for irregular waves are used for numerical simulation of the irregular wave forces on the vertical pile and the results are in fairly good agreement with the test data. Based on the experimental results , the applicability of the spectral analysis method for calculating irregular wave forces on an isolated pile is investigated with the coherency γ between wave and wave forces and with KC number.     

Exact solution and approximate solution of irregular wave radiation stress for non-breaking wave

Wave radiation stress is the main driving force of wave-induced near-shore currents. It is directly related to the hydrodynamic characteristics of near-shore current whether the calculation of wave radiation stress is accurate or not. Irregular waves are more capable of reacting wave motion in the ocean compared to regular waves.Therefore, the calculation of the radiation stress under irregular waves will be more able to reflect the wave driving force in the actual near-shore current. Exact solution and approximate solution of the irregular wave radiation stress are derived in this paper and the two kinds of calculation methods are compared. On the basis of this, the experimental results are used to further verify the calculation of wave energy in the approximate calculation method. The results show that the approximate calculation method of irregular wave radiation stress has a good accuracy under the condition of narrow-band spectrum, which can save a lot of computing time, and thus improve the efficiency of calculation. However, the exact calculation method can more accurately reflect the fluctuation of radiation stress at each moment and each location.     

沿岸流不稳定运动传播特性的小波相干谱分析

沿岸流不稳定运动属于超低频运动,研究它的传播特性,有助于深入理解其对岸滩演变、污染物、鱼卵等输移、迁移的影响。本文基于小波相干谱对所选实验波况进行了研究,分析了规则波、随机波入射情况下沿岸流不稳定运动传播特性,并讨论了入射波高、周期、坡度等对其的影响。结果表明,不规则波更易诱导出沿岸流不稳定运动,且在不规则波情况下,不稳定运动在沿岸方向相距4 m的两个断面上产生的相位差都约为±30°,与波浪入射角相近;随着入射波高的增加,非线性随之增强,更易诱导出不稳定运动,生成的沿岸流不稳定运动周期范围将增大;入射波周期对沿岸流不稳定运动的传播特性影响较小;坡度越陡越易诱导出超低频的不稳定运动。     

陡墙式海堤平台对波浪爬高影响

通过物理模型试验研究陡墙式海堤复坡平台高程和宽度对波浪爬高的影响。平台越宽对波浪爬高影响越大,平台位于静水位处对波浪爬高影响最大,并得出了受平台影响的波浪爬高折减系数计算公式,可供工程参考使用。     

Time-domain simulation of wave–structure interaction based on multi-transmitting formula coupled with damping zone method for radiation boundary condition

Based on the Rankine source, this paper proposed a time-domain method for analyzing the three-dimensional wave–structure interaction problem in irregular wave. A stable integral form of the free-surface boundary condition (IFBC) is employed to update the velocity potential on the free surface. A multi-transmitting formula, with an artificial wave speed, is used to eliminate the wave reflection for radiation condition on the artificial boundary. An effective multi-transmitting formula, coupled with damping zone method, is further used to analyze the irregular wave diffraction at the artificial boundary. We investigate hydrodynamic forces on floating structure and compare our solution to the frequency-domain solution. It is shown that long time simulation can be done with high stability and the numerical results agree well with the solution obtained under the frequency domain. The efficiency of the proposed multi-transmitting formula and the coupled methods for radiation boundary make them promising candidates in studying the irregular water wave problem in time domain.     

多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟

在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型,综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论,将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后,分别计算各组成波的传播变形,再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解,计算效率高,稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证,数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟,给出了合理的港内波高分布。     

多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟

波浪波动时间过程及波列的模拟,对于开展实际波浪对于工程建筑物的作用具有重要的意义。本文采用线性叠加的单叠加模型,建立了多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟方法。基于理论模拟的规则波、单向不规则波和多向不规则波,验证了波浪确定性模拟方法的有效性。定性地对比分析了模拟波列和已知波列的一致性;定量地研究了模拟波浪在空间范围rr/L_s的误差分布情况(rr表示指定位置与给定位置的空间距离,L_s为有效波长)。并且建议,采用本文方法进行波浪确定性模拟时,最佳的浪高仪间距应小于0.12L_s。     

海岸破波带内悬沙空间分布试验研究和解析表达式

关于海岸破波带内悬沙浓度水平和垂向分布的研究对于计算海岸输沙率和地形演变具有重要意义。本研究进行了规则波、波群和不规则波三种波浪情况破波带内悬沙浓度的水平和垂向分布的试验测量。试验在大尺度波浪水槽进行,接近实际海岸波况尺度。给出了破波带内多断面悬沙垂向分布的细致测量结果,并以此为基础给出了预报实际海岸破波带内悬沙浓度水平和垂向分布解析表达式,讨论了形成这些分布的物理原因和不同波况、不同破波带区域对分布的影响。     

Experimental study of the hydrodynamic performance of an onshore wave power device in the presence of an underwater mound

The hydrodynamic functioning of an oscillating water column (OWC) in the presence of an underwater tri-dimensional mound (UTDM) through large-scale ocean engineering basin experiments is described. Experiments are carried out with both regular and irregular waves and are compared to numerical models. The analysis is based on the measurements of the wave amplification in the water column for the OWC performance and on surface deformation upwave and over the UTDM for the wave transformation due to both UTDM and OWC. A significant increase of the capture-width ratio due to wave focusing above the mound is observed experimentally. This wave focusing is also well described numerically with a refraction–diffraction model. The wave amplification in the water column for both regular and irregular waves is compared to results from a linear potential model based on an integral matching method. Linear behaviour of the hydrodynamic response of the device is verified for both open and partially closed conditions, in particular for irregular waves.     

Application of desingularized approach to water wave propagation over three-dimensional topography

A numerical approach based on desingularized boundary element method and mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [Zhang et al., 2006. Wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank: a desingularized method. Ocean Engineering 33, 2310–2331] is extended to solve the water wave propagation over arbitrary topography in a three-dimensional wave tank. A robust damping layer applicable for regular and irregular incident waves is employed to minimize the outgoing wave reflection back into the wave tank. Numerical results on the propagation of regular and irregular incident waves over the flat bottom and linear incident waves over an elliptical shoal show good concurrence with the corresponding analytical solutions and experimental data.     

斜向入反射波分离的数值模拟研究

改进了Goda分离单向入反射波频谱的方法，给出的新方法可应用于斜向入反射波的分离，且测波仪器对的方向可按任意角度布置。当两测点在入射波方向上的投影距离为入射波半波长的倍数时，该方法会出现奇异问题。建议取两测点在入射波方向上投影距离为峰频波长的0．05－0．45倍。这时可得到较好的结果。文中采用数值模拟的方法对模拟波列进行了分离，分离出的波谱与输入的靶谱基本一致，通过分离出的入反射波频谱计算出的各波面过程与输入的各过程线也基本相近，并能较准确地给出结构的反射系数，由此说明该方法是可靠的。     

基于光滑质点流体动力学方法数值波浪水槽研究

基于光滑质点流体动力学(smoothed particle hydrodynamics,简称SPH)方法建立二维数值波浪水槽,利用推波板造波生成孤立波和不规则波,模拟结果跟实验值及解析解做了对比分析,结果令人满意.SPH数值水槽中生成的波浪具有明显的非线性,波浪能量沿程有所衰减,与物理水槽结果吻合良好.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

Establishing uniform longshore currents in a large-scale sediment transport facility

A large-scale laboratory facility for conducting research on surf-zone sediment transport processes has been constructed at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Successful execution of sediment transport experiments, which attempt to replicate some of the important coastal processes found on long straight beaches, requires a method for establishing the proper longshore current. An active pumping and recirculation system comprised of 20 independent pumps and pipelines is used to control the cross-shore distribution of the mean longshore current. Pumping rates are adjusted in an iterative manner to converge toward the proper settings, based on measurements along the beach. Two recirculation criteria proposed by Visser [Coastal Eng. 15 (1991) 563] were also used, and they provided additional evidence that the proper total longshore flow rate in the surf zone was obtained. The success of the external recirculation system and its operational procedure, and the degree of longshore uniformity achieved along the beach, are the subjects of this paper. To evaluate the performance of the recirculation system, and as a precursor to sediment transport experiments, two comprehensive test series were conducted on a concrete beach with straight and parallel contours (1:30 slope), one using regular waves and the other using irregular waves. In the regular wave case, the wave period was 2.5 s and the average wave height at breaking was approximately 0.25 m. In the irregular wave case, the peak wave period was 2.5 s and the significant breaking wave height was approximately 0.21 m. The longshore current recirculation system proved to be very effective in establishing uniform mean longshore currents along the beach in both cases. This facility and the data presented here are unique for the following reasons: (1) the high cross-shore resolution of the recirculation system and the ease with which changes can be made to the longshore current distribution, (2) the degree of longshore uniformity achieved as a percentage of the length of the basin (even near the downdrift boundary), (3) the scale of the wave conditions generated, and (4) the relatively gentle beach slope used in the experiments (compared to previous laboratory studies of the longshore current). Measured data are provided in an appendix for use in theoretical studies and numerical model development and validation.