长重力波运动与近岸过程研究综述

简要介绍了长重力波的概念和作用,概述了近岸长重力波的运动形式、类型、分布和波能变化,分析了近岸长重力波与泥沙运动、海岸侵蚀、近岸环流系统、海滩碎波带地貌形态和潮汐等的关系,提出了进一步研究的几点建议。     

粤东后江湾近岸长重力波特征分析

利用粤东后江湾近岸有限水深(包括碎波带)4个测点的压力波数据,依据波谱分析方法对4个测点的入射波有效波高、长重力有效波高、有效波陡、波面谱、谱宽度和谱尖度参量进行了统计和对比分析.分析认为,在近岸有限水深条件下,波浪由近岸(相对水深0.201)到破、碎波带运动过程中,(1)长重力波有效波高呈增大趋势,至破、碎波带位置增幅最为明显;(2)入射波有效波高至破、碎波带区域达到最大,在破波带外有限水深区域呈现先增大后减小的变化趋势;(3)有效波陡、谱宽度参数呈增大趋势;(4)波浪内部能量向高、低频段发生转移,至破、碎波带区域转移程度最为明显,在峰值频率的高、低频段形成谱峰;长重力波谱强度在破、碎波带区域明显高于对应有限水深测点.     

变浅作用下的长周期重力波的实验研究

利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。     

具有内波特性的渤海南部次重力波

次重力波(infragravity waves)是频率范围介于局地平均Brunt-V¾is¾l¾频率和0.05Hz(涌浪频率)之间的一种海洋波动,其能量在深水大洋中一般甚低,但在浅海中却很强.该波动的研究对于浅海海洋内部混合、近岸海洋工程、海洋生态学、海洋沉积学及军事海洋学均有重要的意义.Munk[1]很早就开始研究这类波动,然而主要由于观测技术的限制,对于该类波动的动力学机制的研究进展迟缓.     

斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征研究

次重力波在近岸水动力运动过程中起到重要作用,深入地了解次重力波对预防其引发的近岸灾害有着重要意义。结合波浪现场观测方法和数值模拟方法研究了斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征。短波和自由次重力波通过海浪谱模型WAVEWATCH III模拟,而约束次重力波通过二阶非线性理论模拟,数值模拟结果与现场观测结果对比吻合良好。研究结果表明,斯里兰卡南部海域大部分时间以自由次重力波为主;在强涌浪海况下（短波波高大于2.5 m,周期大于15 s）约束次重力波逐渐逼近自由次重力波甚至占主导地位;斯里兰卡大陆架极其狭窄,对涌浪的能量损耗作用极为有限,使得近岸面对强劲的涌浪及其伴生的次重力波的侵袭,增大了次重力波引发近岸水动力灾害的风险。     

中国东部边缘海潮波系统形成机制的模拟研究

以三维高精度潮波数值模拟为基础,动用系统分析方法和地理信息系统技术,对影响中国东部边缘海潮波系统的因素,包括入射潮波、科氏力、海区地形、岸线形状及底摩擦等,进行了模拟试验。结果表明,它们对潮波系统的模式有不同程度的作用,其中科氏力的有无、岸线形态的变化和水下地形的巨变化对潮波系统有重要影响。研究认为,中国东部边缘海潮波系统是一个海－潮相互作用的整体;在一定的入射潮波条件下,该区的海区条件、特别是岸     

海洋内重力惯性波不稳定模态分析

基于海洋动力方程的内重力惯性波数学模型给出其数值求解方法,并对沿垂直切变背景流传播的海洋内重力惯性波的不稳定做了探讨,得到的结论有:在不考虑海底地形和采用刚盖近似的条件下,在稳定层化海水中,当背景流为常数时,海洋内重力惯性波均是稳定的。在较弱的稳定层结下,具有垂直切变的背景流会导致海洋内重力惯性波的不稳定。该不稳定内波的增长率对其波长具有选择性并可有短波截断。增长率最大处出现在波长为几十公里的范围内。对固定的内波波长,背景流垂直切变越强则其最大增长率越大;若此时有多个不稳定模态,则增长率最大的模态其垂直结构最简单。该不稳定内波流函数的结构在垂直方向大体呈单圈环流形态,环流中心可以是一个,也可以是2个,后者则呈"猫眼"结构。     

论我国海域价格的形成机制

海域有偿使用制度是我国海域使用和管理的一项制度创新,海域价格是随着我国海域有偿使用制度的推行而出现的一个新名词,海域价格是海域市场形成的关键,文章从市场机制、政府机制、海域稀缺性机制及海域的环境效益等四大方面探讨海域价格的形成机制,对于分析海域价格的构成和综合评估海域价格有着十分重要的意义。     

南极威德尔海冰间湖形成机制的研究进展

针对南极威德尔海冰间湖的特点及影响，本文介绍了有关威德尔海冰间湖形成研究的进展情况，并对存在的问题以及未来的发展进行了分析和阐述。结果说明：动力因素、热力因素和热动力因素都只是威德尔海冰间湖形成和维持的某一方面的控制和影响因子。对威德尔海冰间湖更深入的研究，应该充分考虑较大尺度的海洋-海冰-大气相互作用。     

Experimental analysis of infragravity waves in two eroded microtidal beaches

This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding of infragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar (both dissipative and eroded beaches) located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of infragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies'' energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies'' energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches.     

Infragravity waves with internal wave characteristics in the south of the Bohai Sea of China

The measurements by using ADCP (500 KH) and CTD were made during August 2000 in the south (37°55''N, 120°25''E) of the Bohai Sea, where the water depth was about 16.5m. The data of horizontal velocity with sampling interval of 2 min in 7 layers were obtained. The power spec-trum analysis of these data indicates that there are very energetic infragrvity waves with a period of about 6 min. The coherence spetrum analysis and the analysis of temporal variation of shear show that these infragravity waves are mainly the free wave model (properties of edge waves), in the meantimethey possess some characteristics of internal waves, which are likely due to the distinctive marine environment in this area. It is speculated on that the instability processes (chiefly shear instability) of sheared stratified tidal flow owing to the effect of sea-floor slope in the coastal area might be the main mechanism generating these infragravity waves.     

Influence of offshore topography on the amplification of infragravity oscillations within a harbor

The main purpose of this article is to systematically investigate the influence of offshore fringing reef topography on the infragravity-period harbor oscillations. The infragravity (IG) period oscillations inside an elongated harbor induced by normally-incident bichromatic wave groups are simulated using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model, FUNWAVE 2.0. Based on an IG wave decomposition method, effects of plane reef-face slopes, reef-face profile shapes and the existence of reef ridge on bound and free IG waves and their relative components inside the harbor are comprehensively studied. For the given harbor and reef ridge, the range of the reef-face slopes and the various profile shapes studied in this paper, results show that the amplitude of the free IG waves inside the harbor increases with the increasing of the reef-face slope; while the bound IG waves inside the harbor seem insensitive to it. The effects of the profile shapes on the IG period waves inside the harbor are closely related to the width of the reef face. The existence of the reef ridge can relieve the bound IG waves to some extent when the incident short wave amplitudes are relatively large, while its effects on the free IG waves are negligible.     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用.     

Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory

In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height.     

Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.     

On the structure and propagation of internal solitary waves generated at the Mascarene Plateau in the Indian Ocean

Analysis of a comprehensive dataset of Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) images acquired over the sea area around the Mascarene Plateau in the western Indian Ocean reveals, for the first time, the full two-dimensional spatial structure of internal solitary waves in this region of the ocean. The satellite SAR images show that powerful internal waves radiate both to the west and east from a central sill near 12.5°S, 61°E between the Saya de Malha and Nazareth Banks. To first order, the waves appear in tidally generated packets on both sides of the sill, and those on the western side have crest lengths in excess of 350 km, amongst the longest yet recorded anywhere in the world's oceans. The propagation characteristics of these internal waves are well described by first mode linear waves interacting with background shear taken from the westward-flowing South Equatorial Current (SEC), a large part of which flows through the sill in question. Analysis of the timings and locations of the packets indicates that both the westward- and eastward-traveling waves are generated from the western side of the sill at the predicted time of maximum tidal flow to the west. The linear generation mechanism is therefore proposed as the splitting of a large lee wave that forms on the western side of the sill, in a similar manner to that already identified for the shelf break generation of internal waves in the northern Bay of Biscay. While lee waves should form on either side of the sill in an oscillatory tidal flow, that on the western side would be expected to be much larger than that on the eastern side because of a superposition of the tidal flow and the steady westward flow of SEC. The existence of a large lee wave at the right time in the tidal cycle is then finally confirmed by direct observations. Our study also confirms the existence of second mode internal waves that form on the western side of the sill and travel across the sill towards the east.