公众视角下的地方与无地方：基于游客饮食体验感知的研究

面对全球化所带来的地方与无地方现象，现有研究更多地关注资本、权力所代表的强权阶级，忽视了普通大众弱势群体的作用。针对这一问题，文章采用质性研究方法围绕中外游客对香港地方饮食在线评论文本展开内容分析。研究发现：1）游客的体验评价显示，无论是饮食产品的推陈出新、就餐环境的多元装饰，还是餐厅服务的内容形式，香港饮食文化都表现出中西融合的全球化特征，在保留传统特质的基础上也吸纳了外部文化形成创新，甚至衍生为新的地方特色产品，两者的共存与转换不仅说明地方和无地方的互相包容与促进，还呈现出两者对于全球化的反作用，地方性从而在内外不断的互动过程中呈现出新的文化内涵。2）人的主体因素在全球化过程中扮演着重要角色，不同于强权阶级借助资本、权力等因素施加影响，以游客为代表的普通大众弱势群体通过消费选择对资本、权力产生主体凝视的力量作用，引发其对地方与无地方元素的营造，这是“全球意义的地方”得以形成的关键。

Place and Placelessness: The Perception of Tourists' Local Food Taste in Hong Kong

Considering the debate between place and placelessness research brought about by globalization, scholars discuss their views around the simple relationship of "local-global" duality. However, existing research focusses on the powerful class characterized by wealth, ignoring the role of the general public as the disadvantaged group in the dual evolution of place and placelessness. In response to this problem, this study adopts a qualitative research method to conduct a content analysis on the online comments of Chinese and foreign tourists on local food in Hong Kong. The study's findings indicate the following. First, the experience evaluation of tourists shows that whether it is the innovation of food products, a diversified decoration of the dining environment, or the content and form of restaurant services, Hong Kong food culture reflects the integration of Chinese and Western cultures. Further, it has assimilated Western culture to adopt innovations while retaining traditional Chinese characteristics. The coexistence of place and placelessness shows that through globalization, tourists not only want to experience the new and exciting "place" of their target destination. They also need a standard "placelessness" that provides them with a sense of security and comfort. In this process, place and placelessness tolerate, transform, and promote each other and even generate new local products with global attributes. The counter-effects to globalization are reflected through such a process. That is, place and placelessness are not—as many scholars worry—being penetrated by globalization, but rather both can be transformed into each other, and then react to and redefine globalization. This is how a locality presents new cultural connotations in the process of constant internal and external interactions, thereby forming a "new locality," and global forces reconstruct the local meaning. Second, different from wealth, power, and culture, the influence of factors such as the community play a significant role in the process of globalization. People, particularly tourist groups, have a direct influence on wealth and power through consumer choice and the power of the culture subject gaze. The public's adherence to the place will have a direct impact on wealth and power through huge consumer demand, which will guide the protection and creation of local elements. This is the key to the formation of "global significance." On the contrary, globalization can produce a homogenized value identity that transcends the boundaries of the nation-state and then creates a universal standard space with placelessness. In this space, mass groups of different cultural backgrounds can quickly develop a sense of identity and comfort, which is relatively more helpful in ensuring the quality of consumer experience for such groups that rapidly travel worldwide. As previously mentioned, place and placelessness in the tourism space can be transformed into each other, and the process of transformation primarily depends on the value and meaning construction of the place by tourists in the subject's gaze. At the same time, different results will be produced due to differences in various social groups and cultural backgrounds. Nevertheless, globalization is reducing this cultural difference.