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Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions
作者姓名:ZHENG  Yonghong
作者单位:Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion,Chinese Academy of Sciences,State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology (OUT),Academician of Chinese Academy of Sciences,State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,OUT Guangzhou 510070,China,Dalian 116023,China,Dalian 116023,China
摘    要:Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.


Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions
ZHENG Yonghong SHEN Yongmingand QIU DahongGuangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion,Chinese Academy of Sciences,Guangzhou ,China State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian Universityof Technology.Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions[J].China Ocean Engineering,2001(1):15-23.
Authors:ZHENG Yonghong SHEN Yongmingand QIU DahongGuangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion  Chinese Academy of Sciences  Guangzhou  China State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering  Dalian Universityof Technology
Abstract:Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.
Keywords:wave energy dissipation  wave set-up  wave height associated with breaking  mathematical model  numerical simulation  
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