Discussion of “A simple method to determine breaker height and depth for different deepwater wave height/length ratios and sea floor slopes”, by J.P. Le Roux [Coastal Engineering 54 (2007) 271–277] |
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Authors: | Merrick C Haller Patricio A Catalán |
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Institution: | School of Civil and Construction Engineering, Oregon State University, 220 Owen Hall, Corvallis, OR, USA |
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Abstract: | In the recent paper by J.P. Le Roux Coastal Engineering 54 (2007) 271–277], the author provides a simplified approach to calculating the depth, length, and height of waves at the onset of depth-induced breaking (i.e. at the breaker line). However, the proposed methodology and the comparisons to other methods suffer from a large number of inconsistencies and basic calculation errors. In addition, there are a number of erroneous physical interpretations and many of the conclusions are based on erroneous data. The remaining conclusions are either not new or based on circular logic, such as to render them moot. In the following, we will not attempt to point out all the errors or inconsistencies that we found, instead we focus on major points of contention. |
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Keywords: | Waves Wave breaking Shoaling |
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