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| Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones | |
| 作者姓名： | TOKPOHOZIN N. B. KOUNOUHEWA B. AVOSSEVOU G. Y. H. HOUEKPOHEHAM A. AWANOU C. N. |
| 作者单位： | 1. Institut de Mathématiques et de Sciences Physiques IMSP/UAC, Porto-Novo Rép01BP 613, du Bénin 2. Centre Béninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique CBRST, Cotonou Rép 03BP 1665, du Bénin 3. Laboratoire de Physique du Rayonnement LPR/FAST-UAC, Cotonou Rép 01BP 526, du Bénin |
| 摘 要： | Under the action of marine currents, non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load, by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry. Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment... |
| 关 键 词： | non-cohesive sediments sediment dynamics swell trajectory of sediment velocity drive |
| 收稿时间： | 8/6/2014 12:00:00 AM |
| 修稿时间： | 2014/10/21 0:00:00 |
Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones |
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| TOKPOHOZIN N. B.,KOUNOUHEWA B.,AVOSSEVOU G. Y. H.,HOUEKPOHEHAM A.,AWANOU C. N..Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2015,34(2):137-142. | |
| Authors: | TOKPOHOZIN N B KOUNOUHEWA B AVOSSEVOU G Y H HOUEKPOHEHAM A and AWANOU C N |
| Institution: | Institut de Mathématiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo Rép01BP 613, du Bénin;Centre Béninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou Rép 03BP 1665, du Bénin,Centre Béninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou Rép 03BP 1665, du Bénin;Laboratoire de Physique du Rayonnement (LPR/FAST-UAC), Cotonou Rép 01BP 526, du Bénin,Institut de Mathématiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo Rép01BP 613, du Bénin,Institut de Mathématiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo Rép01BP 613, du Bénin;Centre Béninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou Rép 03BP 1665, du Bénin and Laboratoire de Physique du Rayonnement (LPR/FAST-UAC), Cotonou Rép 01BP 526, du Bénin |
| Abstract: | Under the action of marine currents, non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load, by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry. Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment is bidimensional and modelized the effects of swell by a constant velocitynear the seabed. Here we have studied the velocity profile of fluctuating currents near the seabed and studied the movement of sediment in 3D. The results show that in the areas of study (surf and swash) the movement of sediment occurs in a volume, and the evolution of sediment varies from an areato another. The obtained theoretical profiles of the position and velocity vectors confirm the observations of several authors. |
| Keywords: | non-cohesive sediments sediment dynamics swell trajectory of sediment velocity drive |
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