A Note on Velocity Spectra in the Marine Boundary Layer

Spectra of longitudinal and vertical velocity have been studied at a marine site, östergarnsholm, in the Baltic Sea during a period of six days with near-neutral or slightly unstable conditions, when the wave state gradually changed from pure wind sea to strong swell having approximately the same direction as the wind. During the pure wind sea phase, spectra are shown to adhere closely to general forms for the neutral atmospheric surface layer obtained from a new theory. As soon as the wave age goes slightly beyond that representative of pure wind sea conditions, the spectra deviate in shape from the ideal forms. The spectral modification appears to start at a frequency typical of the swell component. As the wave age increases, it progresses in frequency as a downscale cascade, which is particularly prominent in the spectrum of the vertical component but which is also observed in the longitudinal component. In addition, there is a strong effect in the low-frequency part of the spectra. It is interpreted as an indirect effect of large-scale inactive turbulence, which becomes progressively more important as wave-age increases. It is found that the ratio of the spectrum of the vertical component and the spectrum of the corresponding longitudinal component attains the theoretically predicted value of 4/3 for cases of developing sea (gale force wind) for frequencies above approximately 4 Hz but never much exceeds unity for cases with swell. It is argued that this is an indication of local anisotropy and that the inertial-dissipation method for determination of the momentum flux is inappropriate in the case of mixed seas or swell.