Steepness and spectrum of a nonlinearly deformed wave on shallow waters |
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| Authors: | I I Didenkulova N Zahibo A A Kurkin E N Pelinovsky |
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| Institution: | (1) Nizhni Novgorod State Technical University, ul. Minina 24, Nizhni Novgorod, 603600, Russia;(2) Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, ul. Ul’yanova 46, Nizhni Novgorod, 603950, Russia;(3) University of Antilles, Pointe-à-Pitre, 97159, France |
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| Abstract: | The process of nonlinear deformation of a surface wave on shallow waters is investigated. The main attention is given to the relationship between the wave Fourier spectrum and the steepness of wave front slope. It is shown that an unambiguous relationship couples these quantities in the case of an initially sinusoidal wave, which allows estimation of the spectral composition of the wave field from the observed wave steepness. |
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