Observations of freak waves in random wave field in 2D experimental wave flume |
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Authors: | Jin-xuan Li Peng-fei Li Shu-xue Liu |
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Institution: | 1. State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian, 116023, China
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Abstract: | Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index (BFI) are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI. |
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Keywords: | freak waves Benjamin-Feir instability random wave groups |
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